Growing Apples

Prepared as part of the Food for Life Partnership

Acknowledgements
Colette Bond Stella Cubison Julie Tant Francis Rayns Phil Sumption Philip Turvil Dave Steele Verity Thompson Head of Education and Project Coordinator Horticultural Writer Writer and Proof Reader Horticultural Advisor

Graphic Designer Illustrator

The Health and Safety advice and guidance offered is intended for general information purposes only and is not intended to be a substitute for professional advice and guidance or training. Garden Organic/Food for Life Partnership disclaim any warranty or representation, expressed or implied about the accuracy, completeness or appropriateness of such Health and Safety advice and guidance for any particular purpose.

Apples
There are over 2000 varieties of apple, but you will usually only see a handful of varieties in the shops. Growing some of the more unusual and less well-known varieties in school grounds will help introduce pupils to the range of apples available and give them a chance to experience the array of tastes, colours and textures of the fruit. Apples are a fantastic and relatively straightforward fruit to grow for everyone. A single tree will last for at least 15 years and will soon cover the cost of investment. The trees are adorned with beautiful blossom in spring and pupils will enjoy watching the young fruits grow and swell through the summer, before harvesting and using the apples in early autumn for eating fresh, juicing or cooking.

Varieties
There are two main types of apple dessert varieties which are eaten fresh and culinary or cooking apples which are generally large in size and very sharp if eaten raw and need to be cooked before eating (usually with the addition of sugar). A few varieties are dual-purpose they can be used either for cooking, or eaten raw after a period of storage to allow the apples to sweeten. There are also varieties grown specifically for cider-making. Some varieties of apple are ready for harvest as early as late July, but most will be ready for picking in September or October. For the benefit of the school calendar, we have selected varieties which will be ready for harvesting at the start of the school year in September. Most of the varieties listed below have good or partial resistance to scab or mildew, which are common disease problems in apple (see later section on pests and diseases) and are relatively easy to grow.

Easy to grow and reliable varieties

Easy to grow dessert varieties: (l to r) Adamss Pearmain, Fiesta, Egremont Russet, (top of page) Red Windsor

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Dessert varieties Katy Early Windsor Lord Lambourne Egremont Russet Fiesta (Red Pippin) Red Devil Kidds Orange Red Bright Future Saturn Adamss Pearmain

Picking time* Early September Early September Mid September Mid-late September Mid-late September Late September Early October Early October Mid October Mid Ocotber

Pollination group B A A A B C B C C C

Storage life Best eaten fresh Best eaten fresh 2 months 2 months 2 months 2 months 4 months 3 months 4 months 4 months

Culinary varieties

Courtesy of Walcot Organic Nursery Easy to grow culinary varieties: (l to r) Bramley, Lord Derby, Howgate Wonder

Culinary varieties Lord Derby Howgate Wonder Bramley

Picking time* Late September Early October Mid October

Pollination group C C B

Storage life 2-3 months 6 months 5 months

* Approximate date of harvest will vary with region and weather conditions during the growing season.

Local varieties
It is often fun to grow varieties that have originated from, or are local to, your own county many of which are less well known. A list of traditional apple varieties local to each English county is provided at the end of this apple section. This list contains some of the more popular traditional (Victorian/Edwardian) varieties, but is by no means exhaustive, and many more varieties exist, although you will need to approach specialist fruit tree nurseries to order most of these. If you want to research further varieties Blenheim Orange a variety specific to your county, sources of information are provided below: which originated in Oxfordshire The New Book of Apples: by Joan Morgan and Alison Richards (revised edition 2002), Ebury Press. ISBN: 0091883989. [Link] (provides a link to information on community orchards and the work done by Common Ground in championing traditional varieties).

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Apple blossom is very attractive

Crab apples are good pollinators for apples during flowering the fruits can also be used to make jelly

Pollination requirements

All varieties of apple will set a better crop if pollinated by at least one other different variety. A few, such as Bramley, require two. Growing a good mix of varieties will help, but if you are limited to just a few, choose varieties which have the same or adjacent pollination groups (flowering periods). In most towns and villages where schools are located, there should be enough apple trees in the near vicinity to help with pollination, but if your tree is consistently producing blossom but no fruit, you may need to consider adding another variety or two. Crab apples also generally make good pollinators for apple trees provided they flower at roughly the same time. An alternative is to have a family tree this is a single stemmed tree with at least two or three compatible varieties grafted onto it. This ensures that all the varieties on one tree will all pollinate each other and is particularly useful for growing several varieties where space is at a premium.

Top tip Your fruit tree supplier or nurseryman should be able to advise on the suitability of varieties to ensure successful pollination.

Rootstocks
Commercially available apple trees usually consist of a specific variety grafted (artificially bonded) on to a rootstock (lower portion) which governs the vigour and eventual size of the tree. Where space is at a premium or restrictive tree forms (eg cordon, espalier) will be used, dwarfing rootstocks should be chosen. Trees on such stocks will produce fruit within three to four years, provided the soil is fertile and they are not suffering competition from grass or neighbouring plants. For a more traditional-looking bush tree given more space, a semi-dwarfing rootstock can be used. This will produce a first crop after four to five years. Trees on this stock are ideal for planting in a lawn or rough grassy area on average soils. Vigorous rootstocks should only be used if there is plenty of space and the soil very poor, since these will make extremely large trees (similar to those found in very old orchards), which will be difficult to pick and prune without ladders. After planting, it will be six to seven years before any fruits are produced on these stocks. If in doubt, seek advice on the most appropriate rootstock for your situation from your fruit tree supplier. (See also the summary table below.) Rootstock Vigour Extremely dwarng Very dwarng Dwarng Semi-dwarng Vigorous Tree height (bush form) when mature* 1.5-2m (5-6.5ft) 2.5-3m (8-10ft) 3-3.5m (10-11ft) 4-5m (13-16ft) 5m+ (16ft+) Suitable tree forms

M27 M9 M26 MM106 M2, MM111

Small bush, cordon, step-over, container growing Bush, cordon, step-over, small espalier Bush, cordon, espalier, half standard Bush, cordon, espalier, half standard, standard, compact column Standard

* Actual height and size will depend on variety, tree form and growing conditions

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Tree forms
There are many different ways in which apple trees may be trained and pruned resulting in the eventual form they take and amount of space they occupy. However, even in the tightest of spaces, apples can be grown as compact columns, cordons or as small bushes in containers. Espalier, cordon and step-over forms are very decorative and can be used to provide edges to borders or trained against walls and fences, although they need more care and attention in pruning and training to achieve the desired effect. If choosing the latter restricted forms, it is possible to source trees which have already had their framework established by the nurseryman so that all the initial hard work has been done for you, although such readytrained trees will be more expensive. Where space permits, simple bush or even half standard trees planted into a grassy area will work well for most varieties. Again, it is possible to buy three to four-year-old trees which have already been trained and formatively pruned by the nurseryman. These will provide a crop almost straight away. However, it is cheaper to start with a maiden (year-old) tree and prune it yourself. (See later section for pruning and training advice.)

An espalier growing at Garden Organics Audley End display garden

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Tree form and planting distance between trees Compact column Planting distance: MM106 60cm (2ft)

Description Easy to grow, especially where space is tight. Forms a single stemmed, upright tree. Suitable for lawns, tubs, borders and hedging. Choice of varieties is limited. May require staking in exposed areas. No pruning required! A very attractive and old fashioned method of growing apples as an edging for a bed or border. A single-tier espalier is grown along a wire support 25-30cm (10-12) above ground level. Summer pruning required.

Step-over Planting distance: M27 1.5m (5ft) M9 3m (10ft)

Cordon Planting distance: M27 & M9 0.75m (2.5ft) M26 & MM106 1m (3ft)

Ideal for growing several varieties in a small area. Trees are planted at a 45 angle against a supporting structure (eg tier of wires, wall or fence). Summer pruning required. Makes an attractive feature.

Espalier Planting distance: M9 3m (10ft) M26 3.5-4m (11.5-13ft)* MM106 4-4.5m (13-15ft)*

Attractive and traditional method of training although requires more space than a cordon or step-over. Ideal trained against wires on a wall or [Link] of branches 50-60cm (20-24) apart are trained to run horizontally from the main trunk. Summer pruning required. A very popular and easy-to-manage tree form. Trees have a short trunk with a rounded but open canopy (like a tea cup). Winter pruning required. Staking required for trees on M27 and M9 rootstocks.

Bush Planting distance: M27 1.5m (5ft) M9 3m (10ft) M26 & MM106 3.5m (11.5ft)*

Half standard Planting distance: M26 5m (16ft) MM106 6m (20ft)

Ideal for traditional orchards with large trees needing plenty of space. Makes a large crowned tree with a trunk length of just over 1m (3ft). Difcult to care for properly. Winter pruning required.

Standard Planting distance: MM106 7m (23ft) M2 & MM111 8-9m (26-30ft)*

Very large and tall trees with a trunk height of around 2m (6.5ft). Good for grazing sheep underneath, or establishing a wildower/wildlife area but very difcult to care for properly. Winter pruning required.

* Use the wider recommended spacing for trees on vigorous rootstocks or fertile soil

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Site and soil requirements for apple trees

Choose an open site, but not too exposed to strong winds. The site should be sunny (south-facing where possible) and frost-free. Slightly sloping ground is ideal. A well-drained, fertile soil is ideal for trees on dwarfing and semi-dwarfing rootstocks.

How to prune apples

Pruning fruit trees can seem a daunting prospect, but if you follow a few simple rules, it need not be complicated. All fruit trees will grow and fruit better if pruned regularly and it is a rewarding and quite therapeutic task! The main aims of pruning are to encourage the tree to bear more fruit and to remove unwanted growth. Training goes a step further to control the shape and size of the tree. Keep in mind a few basic facts: Most apple varieties are spur bearers producing fruit buds on short, stubby shoots called spurs which develop on two to three year-old wood. However, a few are tip bearers, or partial tip bearers, producing all or most of their fruit buds at the very tips of the branches. Be careful when you are pruning tip-bearing varieties not to cut off all the shoot tips, or you will not have any fruit in the following years! Fruiting wood can be distinguished from new wood as the fruit buds along it are rounder and fatter than vegetative buds this is most noticeable in March, when the buds begin to swell so if you are unsure, leave pruning until then. (For more of the basics on pruning fruit, see Chapter 2)

Useful expert guides for pruning fruit (including apple trees)

Baker, H., Growing Fruit (Royal Horticultural Societys Encyclopaedia of Practical Gardening), Latest edition 1999, published by Mitchell Beazley, ISBN 1840001534 Bird, R., Pruning Fruiting Plants: A Practical Gardeners Guide to Pruning and Training Tree Fruit and Soft Fruit, with over 350 photographs and illustrations and easy-to-follow advice. Illustrated edition 2006, published by Southwater, ISBN 1844762858 Brickell, C., and Joyce, D., Pruning and Training (The Royal Horticultural Society): The definitive practical guide to pruning trees, shrubs, roses and climbers (includes fruit). Latest edition 2006, published by Dorling Kindersley, ISBN 1405315261

Pruning and training according to tree form

Step-over
Step-overs are trained and treated as single-tier espaliers (see details on next page) although are usually trained on a single supporting wire set at a height of 25-30cm (10-12) from ground level. Starting from scratch: First winter (after planting) After planting a maiden tree in winter, prune back the main stem to a bud just above the level of the supporting wire. First summer (after planting) In late summer, select and tie in two new shoots to horizontal positions along the wire. Remove all other shoots. Pruning during and after establishment: Prune as for cordons (see section below).

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Cordon
These are usually planted in rows against a wall, fence or post and wire framework and set at an angle of 45 to reduce the growth at the tip and concentrate the trees energy into flower and fruit production. It is possible to create double, triple or even quadruple-stemmed cordons from one tree, with two, three or four vertical limbs respectively, although growing and training a single cordon (as outlined below) will allow you to grow more varieties in a tight space. Starting from scratch: First winter (after planting) Start with a one-year-old (maiden) tree. Prune back the main leading stem by about a third. Cut all side shoots back to leave them 7.5cm (3) long. From now on, only summer pruning will be required. Summer pruning (during and after establishment): Late the following summer, and in all subsequent summers, prune back any lateral shoots arising from the main stem to 7.5cm (3), as above. If the laterals have produced shoots (sub-laterals) of their own, prune these back to about 2.5cm (1) to encourage the formation of short, stubby, fruiting spurs. The main stem can be kept growing until it reaches the desired height, whereupon it can be treated as a lateral and new growth cut back by several inches each summer.

Espalier
Traditionally, these are trained as three symmetrical tiers of limbs on either side of the main stem, against a 2m (6.5ft) wall, fence or supporting post and wire structure. Each tier of branches is set 50-60cm (20-24) apart, trained and tied in to strong wires. Starting from scratch: First winter (after planting) Start with a maiden tree planted against a tier of wires set 50-60cm (20-24) apart. The first tier should be set at this distance from ground level. After planting, cut the main stem right back to a bud just above the lowest wire. A bamboo cane can be used to help secure the main stem into position. First summer During the growing season of the first year, at least three new shoots should grow out. Towards mid-late summer, two of these shoots can be tied in horizontally along the first tier of wires, on opposite sides of the main stem. The third should be trained upwards (along the bamboo cane) to form the main stem. Remove any other shoots. Second winter In the winter, prune back the main stem to a bud just above the second wire (as for first winter). Summer pruning (second summer) During the second summer, the process can be repeated as for the first year (tie in two newly-produced shoots horizontally and one vertically). Prune the branches of the first tier as for cordons (outlined above) by cutting back side shoots to 7.5cm (3) and any shoots arising from those to 2.5cm (1). Winter pruning (third winter) Repeat the process outlined above to make a third and final tier. Select only two new shoots to tie in horizontally to complete the espalier. Remove any other shoots.

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Pruning once established: Annually summer prune the espalier as you would for a cordon, cutting back side shoots to 7.5cm (3) and any shoots arising from those to 2.5cm (1). No further winter pruning is required.

Bush
This is a sturdy open-centre tree on a short trunk. The centre of the bush is kept light, airy and uncluttered so that sunlight and good air flow can penetrate all parts of the tree helping to discourage pests and diseases. Most varieties of apple respond well to this system of pruning and training, however very uprightgrowing varieties (eg Egremont Russet) and some varieties of pear are better trained as centre leader trees (see section on pears). Starting from scratch: First winter (after planting) Start with a maiden (one-year-old) tree, with a few lateral branches (side shoots or feathers) where possible. Cut the main stem back to about 75cm (30) in length, leaving at least two good buds (if no laterals) or three to five evenly spaced lateral branches below the cut which will later form the main branch framework. Trim these laterals back by one-third to one-half of their length, to an outward-facing bud. Remove any unwanted laterals (eg poorly-placed, weak, low growing) by cutting right back to the main stem. Second and third winter During the second and third year after planting, these laterals, now lead branches, will grow to form the main branch framework. Prune the growth they made from the previous summer by about half its length, to an outward-facing bud, to promote bushiness. Sub-laterals required to fill in any gaps in the branch framework can also be shortened by half. Unwanted laterals (eg weak growing, overcrowded) can be removed completely or pruned back to four buds to help form fruiting spurs. Fourth winter Having formed the basic framework, only light pruning is required. As above, prune the lead branches and sub-laterals back by one-third to one-half the length of the previous summers growth. Laterals not required to extend the main branch framework can be shortened back to four buds to encourage the formation of fruiting spurs. Prune out any vigorous, upright-growing shoots as these will crowd the centre of the tree. Winter pruning an established tree: Prune out any dead, diseased or damaged wood back to a healthy bud or stem. Continue to keep the centre of the bush uncluttered prune out any weak-growing, very upright or crossing shoots and branches. If some of the lead branches are weak growing they can be lightly trimmed back to stimulate more growth. Remove any worn out and unproductive wood (generally more than three years old) by cutting back to a suitable replacement shoot. Remove any congested or overcrowded laterals or shorten to four to six buds to encourage fruiting spurs to develop. Retain about a third of the newly-formed laterals. If fruiting spurs become overcrowded, thin them out leaving one or two fruit buds per cluster.

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Half standard and standard

Starting from scratch: First winter (after planting) Using a maiden (year-old) tree, the procedure is the same as that outlined for a bush tree form (see earlier), although the height at which the main stem is pruned back differs. For large, standard trees the maiden should be pruned to a height of 1.8-2m (6-6.5ft) and for half-standards, a height of 1.2-1.4m (4-5ft). It may be necessary to wait a year or two until the tree has grown tall enough to prune it to the required height. Thereafter, pruning during establishment is the same as for bush tree forms (outlined earlier). Once the tree has formed the main crown framework, any laterals which have formed below the crown can be removed to give a nice, straight, clean trunk. Pruning once established: Due to the size of the trees, it will be quite difficult to prune established trees with the same attention to detail as that given to other forms. It is best to limit pruning to the basics just remove overcrowded, congested or crossing branches and dead or diseased wood, where you can. Do not cut too much off in one year if there is a lot of wood or major branches to remove, spread the work out over several years, or the tree may suffer shock.
A standard Bramley tree

Caring for established trees

Continue to keep the base of the tree weed-free. Mulch and water if necessary. Thin overcrowded fruitlets by hand in late June to leave one to two fruits per cluster. This will help achieve a good fruit size. Continue to check ties and fastenings regularly loosen if required. Inspect trees regularly for signs of pests and diseases. Prune during the winter or summer as required. Apply a dressing of organic general fertiliser to the base of the trees in early spring, or use a bulky organic mulch to give the trees a spring feed.

Removing an unwanted crossing branch

A cluster of fruitlets in need of thinning

Harvesting and storing fruit

Apples are ready for picking when the stalks detach from the tree easily without pulling and tugging. Cup the apple in your hand and lift and twist if it is ready is should come away easily. Try not to press or handle the fruit too much or it will bruise. Apples can be stored for several weeks or months (depending on variety). Choose clean, unblemished fruits for storing as they will quickly rot if bruised or damaged. Inspect and handle the fruits carefully. Wrap each fruit individually in a sheet of newspaper before placing them in a seed tray, shallow box or basket and leave in a cool, frost-free, place (a garden shed or garage is ideal). Alternatively, place six-eight blemish-free apples in a perforated clear polythene bag - twist the top to seal and store in a cool place. Check them periodically over winter and remove any which show signs of rotting. Cooking apples may be peeled, cored, chopped and frozen in bags for later use.

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Pests and diseases

Troubleshooting
Fruit trees are hosts to an abundance of wildlife, although not all of it will be welcome. Be vigilant and observe your trees regularly for signs of any problems. This is particularly important when the trees are young since an early infestation of pests and diseases can cripple the trees, resulting in poor establishment. They tend to be more resilient as they get older!

Top tip Encourage children to look at the trees and see how many beasties they can spot and identify many, such as ladybirds, will be easily identifiable.

Common pest problems

Distorted (curled and twisted) young leaves and shoots This is usually caused by aphids (greenfly) - there are many species which are problematic on apple. Most over-winter as eggs in bark crevices and buds on the trees and hatch in spring, sucking sap from shoot tips and fresh young growth. Infestations are often patchy and localised. Solution:Your first defence is encouraging natural predators such as ladybirds and lacewings into the area, eg with the provision of wildflowers and insect boxes*.You can also buy packs of ladybird larvae and adults* to boost predator numbers quickly. For spot treatments through the season, use soft soap (insecticidal) sprays, and products made from natural oils or plant extracts (eg Bug Clear, Pyrethrum Insect Killer)*. Low numbers of infested shoots can also be picked off and destroyed. Young leaves folded together and webbed The culprits here are usually larvae (caterpillars) of tortrix moths (Archips podana and Adoxophyes orana) which feed on shoots, leaves and fruits, often webbing foliage together for protection whilst they graze. Caterpillars emerge in late March and April and are active until June, before pupating and emerging as adults several weeks later. Adult moths will then mate and lay eggs, producing a second generation of larvae which hatch in summer and feed on the trees until autumn, before over-wintering on the tree. Winter moths (Operophtera brumata) are another common species which behave in a similar way; the larvae feed on the tree during the growing season before pupating in the soil and emerging as adults during OctoberJanuary. The wingless winter moth females crawl up the tree to lay their eggs in bark crevices and eggs hatch in early spring. Solution: Remove and squash the offending caterpillars when seen! A pheromone trap* hung on the tree from May onwards will help trap male tortrix moths and prevent them mating with the females, which will reduce caterpillar numbers the following year. This approach is best used where there is a small orchard, and examining individual trees in detail is impractical. For control of winter moths, greasebands or gluebands* tied around tree trunks from October until March will help trap the wingless females as they make their way up the tree and before they have a chance to lay eggs.
* = products available from The Organic Gardening Catalogue - [Link] Curled/distorted leaves caused by rosy apple aphid (Dysaphis plantaginea) (inset - rosy apple aphids)

Tortrix larva and webbed foliage

Pheromone traps are useful for trapping male moths of several pest species

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Caterpillars within the apples The classic maggot in the apple is the codling moth larva (Cydia pomella). Adult moths are active from May until August, laying eggs on developing fruitlets which then hatch and the resulting larvae burrow into and feed on the apple. Once mature, the larvae leave the fruit and pupate under loose bark or in leaf litter on the ground, emerging as adults in August or September, or in late spring the following year (depending on temperature). Attacked apples usually have a characteristic entry hole on one side, blocked with dry, brown frass. Solution: attacked fruits can be removed and destroyed when seen during the growing season (particularly where the caterpillar is still active inside). Using pheromone traps* that catch the male moths from May-August and prevents them mating with the females will help reduce moth populations the following year. This is characteristic damage caused by apple sawflies (Hoplocampa testudinea) the larvae of which burrow beneath the skin of developing fruitlets, resulting in the formation of scars on the fruit surface (which becomes most obvious on mature fruits), before burrowing into the core of the apple to feed on the pips, sometimes causing premature fruit drop. During the growing season, the presence of larvae in the fruit can be more easily detected by the wet, brown-black frass exuding from a small hole in the fruit. The larvae can move between fruits, before dropping to the ground to pupate, emerging as adult sawflies in spring the following year. Eggs are laid on young blossoms in April and May and the cycle starts again.

Internal feeding damage caused by larva of the codling moth

Corky, ribbon-like scars on fruit, and sticky brown frass near a small hole

Scarring on fruit surface caused by sawfly larva

Solution: adult sawflies are particularly attracted to apple varieties which have very bright, white blossom (such as Discovery) so one method of control is to hang white sticky traps on the trees during warm weather in spring to help trap flying adults, although other insect species may also be caught. Otherwise, removing attacked fruitlets during the growing season will help reduce populations pick off any fruits which have characteristic holes and wet brown frass present. It is particularly important to carefully examine fruitlets growing together in clusters as this provides an ideal hiding place for the larvae and opportunity to move between fruits.

Common disease problems

Brown spots on leaves and fruit The most common cause of this is apple scab (due to the fungus Venturia inaequalis) which is a problem on susceptible varieties during wet weather. All parts of the plant are attacked, but brown corky lesions on leaves and fruit are the most obvious symptoms. Infection occurs mostly during April-June, particularly when leaves remain wet for prolonged periods. Infection on the fruit is superficial once the skin is peeled, the fruit is perfectly acceptable for eating. Solution: Use resistant varieties where possible, especially in areas which experience frequent rainfall. Do not store infected fruits. Prune the trees to encourage an open and airy habit, helping leaves to dry quickly after rainfall. Rake up and remove fallen apple tree leaves in autumn to prevent disease carry-over.
* = products available from The Organic Gardening Catalogue - [Link]

Apple scab

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White powdery deposits on leaves and stems This is caused by powdery mildew (Podosphaera leucotricha) which tends to occur during dry spells. Young leaves and shoots become infected from April onwards when primary mildew develops, although infection continues during the growing season in warm, dry weather and badly infected leaves will become brown and shrivelled. The fungus overwinters in buds and shoots. Infected fruits are often russetted, but perfectly good for eating. Solution: It is important to cut out infected shoot tips when symptoms are first seen in spring, to prevent the fungus spreading. Ensure trees are receiving adequate water and nutrients so that they are better able to withstand infection. Some varieties are resistant. Brown blistered and corky lesions on the stems This is caused by canker (Nectria galligena). Some varieties are more susceptible than others, but in severe cases it can cripple affected trees. Fungal spores enter the tree during autumn at leaf fall through openings in the bark in bud scales and leaf scars and via wounds caused by pruning, pests and diseases. Affected shoots and branches become sunken and blistered in places, resulting in die-back and eventual death of the affected branch. Solution: The best way of dealing with canker is to cut out and dispose of infected shoots and branches ensuring that you prune back to a healthy part below the cankered area. The best time to do this is during late winter and early spring. Brown cavities within the apples The most common cause of this condition is bitter pit which arises as a result of a shortage of calcium and water, especially on large cooking apples such as Bramley. Affected fruits do not store well. Solution: applying a general purpose fertiliser containing calcium particularly those which contain calcified seaweed*, or similar preparations or soil improvers which contain calcium and lime, during the growing season. Ensure trees are watered regularly. Leaves brown and wilting This is usually caused by a shortage of water, especially in newly planted trees during hot weather. Ensure that trees receive adequate water during establishment. Mulching the base of the tree with organic material (eg compost, well-rotted manure) will help retain moisture. Mulch mats can also be used to keep the weeds down*. Poor growth There are many possible causes of poor growth, but where young trees are affected it is most likely to be due to competition from neighbouring grasses and weeds, especially if trees are planted into a rough pasture area. Ensure that the base of the tree is kept weed-free up to a radius of 0.3-0.5m around the trunk using an organic compost mulch or mulch mat will help. Feed and water the tree well during the growing season. Not much fruit Many possible causes, but usually linked to inadequate pollination, either where there are insufficient pollinator trees nearby, few pollinating insects, or even frost or wind damage during flowering. Planting a few crab apples or other apple varieties to improve pollination may help. Encouraging beneficial insects by growing plenty of flowering plants nearby and providing wildlife habitats will help improve numbers of naturally occurring pollinating insects. Some varieties of apple are naturally biennial producing abundant crops one year and resting the next. This can be discouraged by thinning the fruits adequately during late June in years of heavy fruit set.
* = products available from The Organic Gardening Catalogue - [Link] Bumblebees and honeybees are excellent pollinators Powdery mildew

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Origins of traditional apple varieties (by English county):

Key: c = culinary d = dessert dp = dual purpose

Bedfordshire
Ballard Beauty (d) Bedfordshire Foundling (c) Laxtons Superb (d) (+ many other Laxtons varieties) Lord Lambourne (d) Owen Thomas (d)

Devon
Woolbrook Pippin (d) Woolbrook Russet (c)

Dorset
Buttery Door (c) Melcombe Russet (d) Profit (dp) Warrior (dp)

Berkshire
Charles Ross (dp) Millers Seedling (d) Reverend W. Wilks (c)

Essex Buckinghamshire
Aurthur Turner (c) Coxs Orange Pippin (d) Darcy Spice (d) George Cave (d) Queen (c)

Cambridgeshire
Chivers Delight (d) Emneth Early (Early Victoria) (c)

Gloucestershire
Ashmeads Kernel (d)

Hampshire Cheshire
Lord Derby (c) Hambledon Deux Ans (c)

Herefordshire Cornwall
Cornish Aromatic (d) Cornish Gilliflower (d) Herefordshire Beefing (c) Kings Acre pippin (d) Pitmaston Pineapple (d)

Cumbria
Carlisle Codlin (c) Duke of Devonshire (d)

Hertfordshire
Brownlees Russet (d) Lanes Prince Albert (dp) Thomas Rivers (c)

Derbyshire
Newton Wonder (c)

Isle of Wight
Howgate Wonder (c) Sir John Thornycroft (d)

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Kent
Christmas Pearmain (d) Gascoynes Scarlet (d) Kentish Fillbasket (dp) Lady Sudeley (d) Wanstall Pippin (d)

Shropshire
Downton Pippin (d) Yellow Ingestrie (d)

Somerset
Beauty of Bath (d) Court of Wick (d) Hoary Morning (dp)

Leicestershire
Annie Elizabeth (c) Dumelows Seedling (c)

Suffolk
Lady Henniker (dp) St Edmunds Pippin (d) Sturmer Pippin (d)

Lincolnshire
Allington Pippin (dp) Barnack Beauty (d) Ellisons Orange (d) Isaac Newtons Tree (c) Peasgoods Nonsuch (dp) Stamford Pippin (d)

Surrey
Claygate Pearmain (d) Duchesss Favourite (d) Scarlet Nonpareil (d)

Middlesex
Hounslow Wonder (c) Scarlet Pearmain (d)

Sussex
Crawley Beauty (dp) Forge (dp) Sussex Mother (d)

Norfolk
Adamss Pearmain (d) Baxters Pearmain (d) Golden Noble (c) Hubbards Pearmain (d) Norfolk Beefing (d) Striped Beefing (c)

Warwickshire
Wyken Pippin (d)

Wiltshire
Roundway Magnum Bonum (d)

Northamptonshire
Lord Burghley (d)

Worcestershire
Gladstone (d) Lord Hindlip (d) Worcester Pearmain (d)

Nottinghamshire
Bess Pool (d) Bramleys Seedling (c)

Yorkshire
Ribston Pippin (d) Sharleston Pippin (d) Yorkshire Greening (c)

Oxfordshire
Blenheim Orange (dp)

14

Apples

The Big Lottery Fund supports projects that improve health, education and the environment. The Soil Association is the UKs leading environmental charity promoting sustainable, organic farming and championing human health. The Focus on Food Campaign is the leading food education support programme for the teaching of cooking in the UKs primary and secondary schools. The Health Education Trust is the national charity dedicated to initiating and supporting work with children and young adults to encourage the growth of healthy lifestyles. Garden Organic is the UKs leading organic growing charity, dedicated to researching and promoting organic gardening, farming and food.

Garden Organic is the UKs leading organic growing charity, and is dedicated to researching and promoting organic gardening, farming and food. We are driven by an enduring passion and belief, founded on over 50 years of research and practice, that organic methods provide a healthy, sustainable life for us all.
Garden Organic Ryton, Coventry, Warwickshire CV8 3LG Tel: 024 7630 3517 Fax: 024 7663 9229 Email: enquiry@[Link]

[Link]
Registered charity no 298104 Garden Organic is the working name of the Henry Doubleday Research Association.

The Food for Life Partnership is a network of schools and communities across England committed to transforming food culture. The Partnership is led by the Soil Association with the Focus on Food Campaign, Garden Organic and the Health Education Trust. Together we work to revolutionise school meals, reconnect young people with where their food comes from and inspire families to cook and grow food.

food for life PARTNERSHIP

South Plaza, Marlborough Street, Bristol BS1 3NX

T 0117 314 5180

F 0117 314 5001

E fflp@[Link]

[Link]