Delft Walking Tour -- by Jay Brentjes, October 2010

The old cities of the Netherlands have lots of history that is preserved in their 'old town' sections. Delft certainly ranks high when it comes to scenic spots to visit and most are within easy walking distance. The map at the bottom of this page shows you the route we will take today. The total length of the walk is just over two miles and can be done in a few hours depending how much time you care to spend at each stop. I suggest you budget your time according to your likes. First a few words about the starting point of this walk and then a bit of history so we can put the places we will see in better perspective. Again, as before, the historical notes are in green. The train station is always a good point of reference (rather than the main square). Most visitors will be arriving by train and if you are coming from a cruise ship, it will be Amsterdam or Rotterdam. Towards the end of this page I have included a few suggestions about train travel to and from those two cities.

Delfts Blue
One more comment before we start the walk. Most visitors coming to Delft know about the factories where Delft's Blue is produced and perhaps that is their main interest, and that is fine. Delft has at least four earthenware places. Two of the larger factories are the Koninklijke Porcelyne Fles, which was established in 1653, and the Delfse Pauw, founded in 1650. Here are the web sites for both. http://www.royaldelft.com and http://www.delftpottery.com Both of these places offer free tours to show you how the ceramic is made and give demonstrations about the painting. The first does offer a shuttle bus in the summer. You can find it on their web site. The Pauw can be reached by taking tram number one from the train station going north. HOWEVER! There are two more and we will see one of those on our walk. The Candelaer uses the same techniques and produces wonderful Delft's Blue. So, you might wait and see. http://www.candelaer.nl

A bit of history:
Delft derives its name from the Dutch word 'delven' or digging, a trait common to most of the low lands. Digging canals became a necessity for the people who were surrounded by water. Canals were used to channel rain water away, the turf was used to raise the land for tilling and planting, and they were a way to transport goods by boat. Delft was granted citizenship in 1246 by the Earl William II and it would grow for the next hundred years. In 1350 a major canal, the Schie, was constructed that connected Rotterdam to the Hague via Delft. This was an important waterway and it also became part of the defensive perimeter of the city. By 1355 Delft had established its boundaries and they would remain that way until the 19th century. See map below. The Oude Kerk

(Old Church) was started in 1250, the Nieuwe Kerk (New Church) in 1383. Except for two major disasters (the great fire of 1536 and the explosion of the gun powder storage building in 1654, both of which destroyed hundreds of home and people's lives), the city prospered. During the early years of the 17th century, Delft was a center of painting, arts, crafts and science. The Dutch East India Company, the large trading company with ships going to the Indies, had established one of their offices and warehouses in Delft. Spices, coffee, tea and Chinese porcelain now found their way to Delft. This tour passes by the place during the first part of the walk. Later when we visit the Prinsenhof, I will touch on the history of the Royal Dutch family starting with William of Orange, the father of the Netherlands. This map dates from 1652. As was common at the time, north was not necessarily at the top, so we have to keep in mind that in this case the top is east. What is clearly shown are some of the highlights of our visit here but also the defensive wall and canals surrounding Delft. It was considered well protected from invaders. In particular note the South Gate and the ships docked in the harbor called 'Hooft' or Head. It is at the bottom right. This was the Schie canal from Rotterdam and considered the most likely direction from which trouble could come. We will see canons trained at the harbor from within the walled city. It is also this southwestern part of Delft that became most important. At the bottom center is the West Gate (better known as the 'Waterslootsepoort' or the 'Bolwerk'. It has a triangular diversion with the road leading making a jog into the city. Much later, part of the canal was filled in to make way for the train viaduct (and the route for tram number one), but a small section of the 'diversion' and the southern part of the main canal are still there. Have a look at today's map at the end. The elevated wall surrounding Delft was also an ideal place for windmills. You can still find one along the northwestern edge.

1. Start of the walk. The train station can

be exited west or east. Go east, it will take you to the parking area and bus stops and lots of bicycles. Continue east and cross the first of many canals. This is where the tram runs. Cross this busy street and enter the little alley called Barbara Steeg. I know it is narrow, but you will be perfectly safe. There are many of these and It is a short way to reach the Oude Gracht (Old Canal).

Take a look from the bridge ahead of you. To the far left you can see the Oude Kerk, it comes later. We are going right, along the west side of the canal. Here you will find some interesting buildings such as the former Oost India Company's office to your right and some plagues on the wall across the water. It is the back side of the 'Legermuseum', the military museum of Delft (In God we trust, is the way I translated the motto). To visit the museum, you would have to go back to the little bridge, cross it and make a right turn at the next canal. Our tour continues further along the Oude Delft canal and soon you will get a better picture of the 'front' of this impressive building. This is where the defensive canons were located to point at the South Gate, the entrance to the harbor we discussed above. Now there is a bridge across two channels and city streets above. When you reach this spot you can have a look at the Schie.

Be careful crossing the busy street, but the view is worth it. Go a bit to your right to see the old ships docked at the former ship building area. This area is also shown in the old print as the Hooft, noted above. I found it interesting to see the black ship with its mast folded onto the deck. Obviously it is now a motorized vessel, but the folded mast feature is necessary to pass underneath the numerous bridges along the canals. I recall passing by here when I was a youngster on a sail boat that had the same setup of keeping the mast on deck when motoring along the Schie.

2. Back to our walk. When you see the long brick bridge also notice the one opening to the left.
It is the 'Hoogbrug' (High Bridge) and leads to another canal and that is where we are going. Here is another view. The canal is the 'Achterom' or Around the Back, because it was a roundabout way of going to the main square. Another way was the canal to your left or along the Legermuseum. You can see the tall church, the Nieuwe Kerk. It is our destination and, in the past, that of many merchants entering this way from Rotterdam. You can either go to the right or left along the Achterom canal. We are heading towards the bridge in the distance. But notice this door along the way, the one below is dated 1620 indicating we are still in the old parts.

You may also see a lot of water lilies on these calm canals. There is not much boat traffic here and that is another reason why I think Delft is so much more peaceful than Amsterdam. How about a few young swans making their way along the canal? Oh, and what do you think about parking along here? When you reach the bridge, continue along the canal as it bends to the left. Then at the next corner we make a right turn. We are now entering a different part of Delft; from the old to the new and modern.

3. We are now at the Veste Plein. To your left you will still see some of the older buildings and
a bar/restaurant 'Moods', popular with the younger crowds. But most of the other buildings are modern and relatively new. The reason is that this part of Delft was rebuilt after the Schie was realigned. On the old maps you can see two sharp bends in the canal. This caused difficulties for long boats, so a new section was dug with a more gradual bend. We will see this shortly. Part of the original Zuiderkanaal is still there with lots of nice houseboats lining one side. Also keep in mind that the university is not too far south from here, so many students and other young folks make this their hang out. There is 'Mustsee', a movie theater and shops such as 'America Today'. But we pass here and go to the next square the Bastiaanplein. You can see it in this picture. When you reach this spot, notice the narrow passage way between the buildings (see picture to the right). That is where we are going next. It leads to the busy street we saw earlier along the Schie. Cross the street and the bridge ahead. Stay along the left side and when you are on the bridge notice the long row of trees and footpath along the water front. We are going to take a nice, leisurely walk along there to reach our next stop the East Gate. You will see some stairs to go down at the end of the bridge.

4. As you pass the bend along the canal you see our next bridge. We will cross this to the
Oostport (East Gate) but not yet. Notice this was the location of the famous painting by Jan Vermeer. He knew, just like Rembrandt, how to catch the light and shadows below the clouds.

But continue a bit further for one of the prettiest views. Now cross the modern bridge and the white 'ophaalbrug' or draw bridge and continue through the gate. Some of the old buildings you see in the Vermeer painting are gone, but you still get an idea of what it must have been like when you look back at what remains of that period. Just before we reach the main square we can stop at the Vermeer Centrum and learn more about this artist. Straight ahead is one of the main shipping canals into the old town, Oosteinde. In the distance we see the Nieuwe Kerk. We will walk along the left side until we reach Molslaan where we turn left. But have a look back from where we came. There are some interesting views. Sometimes you may see the canal covered with what looks like green algae. It is actually part of the Lemnaceae family and called 'kroos' in Dutch. It is similar to duckweed and is eaten by ducks and swans and does not harm to fish.

5. After we pass the white pedestrian bridge (known as 'Hopbrug'), we come to the Moslaan
canal. Here is where we turn left and go to the Beestenmarkt (Animal Market). From about 1595 until 1971 this was a market place where you could sell or buy farm animals including pigs, rabbits, etc. However, horses were traded at a different place. Now the Beestenmarkt is a nice spot to relax. There are several bars and restaurants that are pleasant and a lot less expensive than those around the main square. During the winter months the center of the square is flooded and turned into a ice skating rink. The church you see at the north-west corner is the Maria van Jessekerk, a Catholic church. We are going around the corner and take the road that curves a bit to the left. It is the Burgwal. At the next corner you come to the side of the Nieuwe Kerk, but instead of going to the front, we are taking one more detour. Turn right and walk to the next corner. Here you come to the Vrouwenregt, a delightful short street. The name is interesting and I don't know its origin. It means the 'right of women'. You can see a quaint bridge and corner house in the distance. We are heading that way.

Cross the bridge and you come to two places I would like you to see. The first is an old bar 'de Ruif'. The second is the Delft's Blue factory of 'De Candelaer'. Both places are worth a visit. Inside the ceramic shop you can see how pieces are formed and painted. It is the same techniques used by others in Delft. After your stop, go back across the bridge and turn left along the Vrouwenregt. We still have more to see before going to the main square. Now you come to the back of the little house you see above and also the back of the restaurant. Quite often there is now a barge with tables as part of the restaurant. Cross the bridge and there is the back of De Candelaer, with a Delft's Blue back door that goes into the canal. Here you find a few more like that. If you should be here on a Saturday you will find the flea market. This is a grand way to see and find some treasures all along a wonderful setting. There are numerous stalls and simple ways of displaying items right on the street. You can find ceramic tiles and plates, tools and nautical stuff. My wife found a small brass bell in the shape of a windmill to add to her collection. But be careful to know what you are buying. Also barter and ask what the merchant's lowest price is. Then offer a bit less.

6. The Vermeer Centrum is along the

Voldersgracht. It is a place more of a tribute and explanation of the works of Jan Vermeer, rather than a museum. The famous artist was born in 1632 here in Delft where he lived most of his life and painted his master pieces such as 'Girl with a Pearl Earring'. I strongly suggest to visit the centrum. The web site of the Centrum also has an excellent video clip showing most of his known works. Have a look at http://www.vermeerdelft.nl/195.pp When you leave the building, go straight and you are finally on the main market square of Delft.

7. The Markt. As you look around you, the first two buildings stand out. At one end of the
rectangular open space is the city hall and at the other the tall Nieuwe Kerk. Along both sides are restaurants and lots of souvenir shops. On Tuesdays there is a general market with about 150 stalls. Sometimes there are special events. One year we were here when a large part of the square was covered with crushed shells for a major boche ball tournament. Look around and then let's go to the church. In front you find the statue of Hugo de Groot, a Dutch writer of the

17th century. Inside the church you can see the floor stones and graves of famous people, but the largest and best-known mausoleum is of William of Orange, the father of the Netherlands. Beneath the stone lie many members of the royal family. It is an impressive place to see. If you are so inclined, you can climb to the top of the church tower. It took some stamina, but several years ago we did just that. There are several levels, but when you look down the views are fantastic. You can see where we came from and I have marked one picture with our route to follow. On a rainy day, or if you are not in decent shape, don't do this. There are no elevators in churches. If you are pressed for time, this may be a good time to stop the rest of the walk and head back to the train station. I have shown this on the map below in green. From the square you go to the left of city- hall, jog around a couple places until you come to the Oude Delft canal. Then follow the route again per the map below. BUT if you are not in a hurry, let's continue the rest of the walk and see the Oude Kerk and onto the Prinsenhof, and a bit more of history.

8. There are so many canals in Delft. It is hard

to keep track of their names and location. But now we are at a zigzag intersection of streets and water ways. From this corner you can see this gray building, it is a national monument. This used to be the 'Vleesmarkt' or meat market, the only place in town where you could buy 'fresh' meat. If you read the novel by Tracy Chevalier the 'Girl with a Pearl Earring, you might remember that this is the place where she met her lover and future husband the butcher. The Vleesmarkt is now better known as the Koorn, a place for concerts and theatrical performances. There is a restaurant in the basement. Next door is the Fish Hall. It also has seen more productive times. But again on Tuesdays you can find more stalls of the general market. Fresh flowers are a big thing in Holland. We pass the Fish Market and walk north along this canal to the back side of the Oude Kerk. There is a visitor's information center along this street, in case you want to pick up some more information about Delft. When you see the Oude Kerk go around the south side to more bridges. One leads directly into the front of the church. If the church is open, take a peek inside. Here you will find the burial place of Piet Hein, the most famous Dutch admiral who fought sea battles against the Spanish around 1625.

9. Our last stop is the Prinsenhof. It is right across from the Oude Kerk. It looks like an old
castle but was originally a cloister, Sint-Agathaklooster. Then in 1572 William of Orange moved here to find better protection during his reign. However, it was also here that he was murdered.

William was born in the German town of Dillenburg and at age 11 he inherited the French Principality of Orange and the property of the Netherlands. Later, while living in 'Holland' he became a leader in the battle against the Spanish occupation and fought for freedom of religion. In 1580 the Spanish King Felipe II declared the Prince an outlaw and offered twenty five thousand golden crowns to his murderer. After a number of failed attempts, Balthasar Gerards succeeded. In 1584 he bought two pistols and shot the prince on the stairs near a dining room. His final words in French were: Dear God, dear God, have pity on me and this poor nation. The two bullet holes are still visible in the current museum Het Prinsenhof. His descendants are still the Royal Family, the House of Orange. William the Silent, Prince of Orange, lies buried in the Nieuwe Kerk along with most of those who succeeded him. From here we go back through the gate and turn right. We are heading back along the Oude Delft, the canal where we first started. Along the way notice a few interesting buildings such as Het Gemeenlandshuis, a government office of the Delfland water district, and the smallest house in town. Also look back at the Oude Kerk and notice how it leans. The top is about six feet from vertical. That compares with about twelve feet for the Tower of Pisa. When you see the canal narrow, you are just about at the Barbarasteeg, the little alley that leads you back to the train station.

Trains in the Netherlands

A few more words about train travel. If you come from Amsterdam you should try to catch a train as early as possible. You can walk from the cruise ship terminal to the train station in about 15 minutes. It takes about an hour to go to Delft and the price for a roundtrip ticket is 22.20 euros. From Rotterdam it is 15 minutes and 5.60 euros. I have shown some details about going to the Rotterdam station in the walking tour of Rotterdam. Trains run very frequently and are practically always on time. You can buy the tickets from a machine at the station using one and two euro coins or a credit card. However, the card should have the 'chip and pin' feature, not the magnetic strip as we still use in the US. You can buy tickets from the ticket office where they add one euro for the service (the fee is waived for senior citizens). Be sure to note the platform for departures and the direction you want to go. From Amsterdam you head for Haarlem, from Rotterdam take the Den Haag train. For the return trains the directions are Amsterdam and Rotterdam respectively. Here is the web site that may help you http://www.ns.nl/cs/Satellite/travellers