MADEEASY

NOBUKO TSUDA
FOREWORD BY DO ALD RICHIE
SUSHI MADE EASY
by Nobuko Tsuda
foreword by Donald Richie
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New York WEATHERHILL Tokyo
Photos by Katsuo Meikyo
The assistance of the Nakano Vinegar Co., Ltd., producers of Mitsukan Vinegar,
and the Tokyo Mutual Trading Co., Inc., Tokyo, is gratefully acknowledged.
First edition, 1982
Thirteenth printing, 2001
Published by Weattlerhill. Inc. of New York and Tokyo. C 1982 by Nobuko Tsuda;
all rights reserved. Printed in the U.S.A.
Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data: Tsuda, Nobuko./ Sushi made
easy./ includes indexes./l. Cookery (Fish) 2. Sushi. I. Title/TXl47.D4
641.5952 MCR2/ISBN 0-8348-0173-6
Contents
Foreword. by Donald Richie vii
Ingredients and Basic Preparations 3
Vegetables. Dried Foods, and Liquids 3
Fish and Shellfish 22
Utensils 42
Sushi Rice 48
Finger Sushi 63
Rolled Sushi 68
Scattered Sushi 83
Box Sushi and Pressed SushI 89
Miscellaneous Sushi Varieties 98
Serving Suggestions 109
Beverages 110
Soups 112
Sources for Japanese Foods 117
Recipe Index 127
v
Foreword
Japan, an archipelago surrounded by seas. is a great fish-eating
nation. Almost none of the foods coming from the ocean is con-
sidered inedible. and some of these-squid. octopus. and the many
varieties of ocean fish-are eaten in enormous quantities. Seaweed.
various shellfish. sea urchin. shrimp and prawn-all are eaten, but
the national favorites are those meaty fish found in the Pacific:
tuna. mackerel. bonito. sea bream.
These are prepared in an enormous variety of ways. They are
boiled and broiled. steamed and grilled. pickled and fried. dried, and
served fresh. Among all these. however. the most popular method of
presentation is the last-fresh, that is. raw.
Fresh seafood is served in two major manners. Sliced and appro-
priately decorated. served in a bowl or on a dish. it is called sashimi
and is often the first course of a typical Japanese meal. An even
more popular method, however. is when it covers fingerfuls of rice
and is a meal in itself. This is sushi.
One of Japan's most representative foods, sushi is now known
around the world. Most large cities in America and Europe have
sushi shops and the dish has been described in The New York
Times,
Here is Craig Claiborne's definition: "An assortment of small
morsels of freshest raw fish and seafood pressed into cold rice
lightly seasoned with vinegar," This is a perfectly servicable descrip-
tion so far as it goes, but it does not go far enough. Sushi. a
delight to the eye as well as a revelation to the tongue. is also an
engrossing culinary happening that those who have tasted will not
soon forget.
It was not always such. and. as is the case with so many beloved
foods, its beginnings are somewhat unappetizing. Originally, it
appears that what we now know as sushi was merely preserved fish.
Rice was packed round the uncut fillets and was then thrown away
before the aging flesh was eaten. There is. however, a more elegant
accounting of the origin of sushi from the same period. The Nihon
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VIff
Shah. an official history of Japan compiled at the beginning of the
eighth century. says that the twelfth-generation emperor. Keiko. was
served raw clams dressed with vinegar and liked them so much that he
made the Inventor. Mutsukari no Mikoto. his head chef. Thus. it is
said. did early Japan establish Its predilection for fresh seafood.
Nonetheless. fish preservation continued. and It is from this
combination of seafood and nce thaI the present-day sushi evolved.
Over the centuries layers of fish and layers of rice In a jar wIth a
stone on top turned into a food Itself. The resultant fermentation
gives the sharp sweet taste that vlnegared nce now approximates.
and the whole is still called narezushi and still eaten. rice and all. in
the country.
This dish became in turn what IS still known as Osaka-style sushi
and remains very popular In that city. Fresh seafood is put Into a
shallow mold. rice is added. and the whole IS pressed. The result is a
kind of large pie that is then cut into bite-sized pieces.
The kind of sushi with which the world is now familiar. the more
popular Edo-style of finger-formed nigiri-zushi described by Craig
Claiborne. is a rather late development. having been originated in
Tokyo (then Edo) in the early nineteenth century. There is no
fermenting. no pressing Into molds. no waiting. Whatever its fast-
food origins-it was said to have originated to facilitate Kabuki
customers. famished but not wanting to mISS the beginning of the
third act-it has now become the supreme type of sushi.
(It should perhaps be noted that here. as elsewhere so often in
Japan. the name gives little clue to either ongln or history. Sushi IS
wntten with two characters. but the characters themselves vary.
though their pronunciation remains the same. Suo meamng "vinegar"
IS sometimes seen but thiS IS apparently a very late variant. More
often the su iSju (In ItS Chinese reading). which can mean "long
life" or something equally felicitous. The shi is most often the
Chinese reading of the Japanese character lsuka. which can mean
"to control"' or "to arrange." However. Japanese being Japanese.
"arranging for a long life" would not be the proper translation of
sushi. In the event, though kanji character readings of the name are
sometimes seen. most often the sound is simply rendered in the
syllabiC kana form. which has no more meaning attached than to the
separate letters of our alphabet. Thus is the difficult task of "reading"
characters often solved. It may thus be said that sushI has no
translation.)
'Sushi is pronounced zushl when suffixed to other WOlds.
Having come into its own. niglrl-zushi proliferated into a number
of forms. all now avaIlable at the sushi shop and most capable of
being made at home as well-and all in addition to the finger-
formed bite-sized standard.
In one variation. a square of seaweed is swiftly coated with rice.
something is put in the middle. wasabi (Japanese horseradish) is
added. and the whole IS rolled into a long cylinder that is then cut
into pieces or eaten as IS. If pickled dried gourd is used inside. the
result IS called non maki; If cucumber. kappa maki: if strips of fresh
tuna. lekka maki: if omelet and seafood mixed. dare maki. and so on.
Or. the seaweed is rolled on the bias to make an Ice-cream-cone-
shaped sushi called lemaki-zushi. Or. vinegared rice is packed
into a bag of ffled tofu. and the result is inari-zushi. Or. the rice is
wrapped in dwarf bamboo leaves and called sasa maki-zushi. Or. a
favorite to make at home. seafood is shredded over a bowlful of
vinegared rice. and the dish IS called chirashi-zushi. And there are
many other variations as well.
Sushi proper. that is. nlglri-zushi. comes in the widest of choices.
In order of their probable popularity there are: tuna (maguro). the
marbled underside of the tuna (lora). the half-marbled Side section
of the tuna (chu toro). sea urchin (uni). boiled or live shrimp (ebi).
sea bream (tai). squid (ika). ark shell (akagai). young yellowtail
(hamachi). adult yellowtaIl (buo), octopus (rako). salmon roe
(/kura), conger eel (anago). abalone (awabi). and many other
seasonal fishes and shellfish. ending up With the only nonseafood
llem In the lot-tamago yak,. a bit of thick. sweet omelet on nce.
There are. in addition. regional specialties. some of whIch use fresh-
water fish. There IS the slightly bitter luna-zushl from Shiga
Prefecture. which uses the carplike luna. the fish said onglnally
preserved back in the old days when the rice was thrown away.
Toyama has masu-zushi made with trout. and Kyoto In the sum-
mertime has ayu-zushi, fresh fillets of the small. salmonllke ayu on
nee.
All of these varieties and many more are popular. In fact. sushi has
been called the most popular food in Japan. In Tokyo alone there are
between ten and fifteen thousand sushi shops-in all of Japan there
may be one hundred thousand such establishments. In addition.
sushi is often served in the home as a special treat. If we conserva-
tively estimate the number of families in Japan as twenty-five million
and if each serves sushi once a week. we then have a tremendous
amount of it being consumed.
There is thus no specialized clientele for sushi. as there is in the
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West. where. though popular. it is by no means yet a national food.
Everyone likes it. and the amount eaten is determined only by the
amount of money one has to spend on It. because. for a national
passion. it is surprisingly expensive.
Despite (or because of) ItS expense. however. a mystique has
grown up around sushi. Though the masses may gorge on just any
old fresh fish with rice. the sushi aficionado (a character somewhat
like the connoisseur of French cuisine or of wines) picks and
chooses. both subject to and at the same tIme contributing to the
many stipulations that create the sushi mystique.
He knows, for example. that seafood raw should be eaten only
at Its freshest. Thus he himself has It only for the midday meal or
earlier and much deplores those who sup on sushi or. worse. have it
as a late-night snack. By this time. as the connoisseur well knows.
the seafood is no longer fresh enough to please the discerning
palate.
The discerning palate also knows the very best sushi shop-the
one no one else knows about. He knows what fish are in season and
consequently freshest. He also knows the master and always asks his
advice, How is the tuna today? Had he better stick with maguro, or
might he venture the chu toro. or is today one of those fine days
when he may go all the way with taro Itself? Master and connois-
seur discuss the possibilities and then. with gravity and responsi-
bility. make the chOice.
ThiS sushi (su (a word denoting a person of extreme knowledge-
ability) wIll also. of course, know the proper language. since the
sushi mystique insists upon a separate vocabulary. In additIon to
knowing all the proper names of the vanous vanetles. he will also
know that one does not call soy sauce shoyu but rather murasakl;
that ginger is In the sushi shop not called shoga but gan; that wasabi
is sabl (or even namlda-tears-because this native horseradish is so
piquanl). that tea is not ocha but agari: and that when he asks for
Ihe bill he does not call for the usual kanjo or the ordinary dempyo
but the much more elegant oaiso.
For every {SUo of course, there are hundreds of ordinary sushi-
lovers who consume this favored delicacy anyplace. at any hour of
the day or night. If they can afford it. Sushi, being comparatively
expensive. however. is not an everyday treat.
The expense varies. At the sushi shop where you order each
vaflety as you want it the cost is greatest. If. however, you order a
predetermined selection. a moriawase. then the price declines. If only
because it does not contain much. or any. expensive salmon roe or
marbled underside of tuna. Rather, It contains what IS seasonal and
hence less expensive. Sushi IS a seasonal food. and ItS cost depends
upon what is available (and what is not). Winter fish (hemng) are
cheap enough III February but very expensive in August. for example.
The moriawase are relatively less expensive because they are largely
made of those seafoods presently in season.
Most sushi shops. even the best. make a large part of their profIt
from these mOrlawase. because II is these that constitute the takeout
orders and such must comprise at least half of the shop's bUSiness.
If you want to have people over to the house and want to serve a
gracIous snack. you call up the corner sushi shop and order several
moriawase. In a very short time the boy on his bike appears with
the order nicely packed in lacquer trays or boxes (to be returned
later) along with murasaki. gan. and even chopsticks (though the tsu
always uses his fingers-but then a tsu would not be eating a
moriawase) .
Or the lady of the house may decide to make her own. This is the
least expenSive of all sushi. She buys the seafood at the local store,
where the fishmonger cuts It properly for her. Back home she
prepares the vinegared rice. assembles the other Ingredients. and
does It all herself.
Such homemade sushi tastes very good indeed. but the hostess
always makes apologies for It. The sushi mystique demands that it
be made by an expert, and. indeed. sushi-making IS an intricate art.
More often she will settle for chlrashl-zushi. all the Ingredients
spnnkled over a large bowl of vinegared rice. a Single-dish meal to
which everyone helps himself. This is delicious and filling and takes
little skill to make. and the mystique is not applicable.
A visil to the sushi shop Itself will indicate the degree of skill
necessary and perhaps the reason why the sushi Ilamae are given
the same kind of reverential regard that the West accords. say,
French chefs.
The sense of occaSIon that dIstinguishes sushi-eating beginS as
soon as one walks into the shop. Behind a long counter of im-
maculate white cypress is a glass-cased. ice-cooled array of seafood.
all unmistakably fresh and some alive. This colorful decor. both
pristine and CriSp. offers the eye an overture of delights to come.
Behind it stands the sushi Itamae and his assistants. all in cleanest
white. ready to perform one's bidding.
After an apprentice has brought a cup of piping hot tea, a dish for
the murasaki. a mOist oshibor! hand towel. and pinches of gan with
which to refresh the mouth between bites. one is ready to order.
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Some prefer an hors d'oeuvre of freshly cut sashimi accompanied
by beer and/or hot or iced sake. Others want to begin directly with
sushi. The itamae, upon hearing the order, gets busy with fingers and
knives. and the performance begins.
Deft and skillful. each stroke swift and precise. he cuts and slices.
scoops a double fingerful of rice. adds a bit of sabi and swiftly
forms the oblong ball. seafood now firmly in place. A piece of sushi
thus properly done has. it is said. all the grains of rice facing in the
same direction. Acquiring this technique, say the masters. requires
many years.
Two such "fingers" of sushi constitute an order. To eat them one
may use the chopsticks provided. but the more knowledgeable do
not. They pick up the piece with the fingers. turn it over. dip the
seafood Side lightly Into the soy sauce. and then convey it to the
mouth. Marveling at the succulent freshness. one then regards the
itamae at work on the next order, in due time calling out one's own.
Becoming a full-fledged sushi itamae and owning eventually
one's own shop IS a long and exacting process. One might think
that sltclng up fish and putting the pieces on rice fingers was a
simple enough procedure. but not at all.
The apprentice often begins at the sushi shop as soon as he
finishes secondary school, that is. when he is seventeen or so. He
washes up and cames the takeout orders for a number of years. and
then he is allowed to help with the daily making of rice.
This is Itself a skill. Good sushi rice must be glossy and have a
certain chewlness to it. It is thus cooked with less water than
ordinary rice and the water is hot to begin with. After the proper
amount of seasoned vinegar has been added. the cooked rice is put
into a large. shallow wooden tub made of Japanese cypress and is
spread With wooden paddles. since anything made of metal might
make the vinegar react. It is then tossed and again spread. cooling
all the while. The techniques involved are not simple. and the
apprentice ought spend a number of years learning them.
In the meantime he has been observing the master at work. Cut-
ting seafood for sushi is more an art than a craft. One's technique
at the carving table must be impeccable. to be sure. but each piece
of tuna is different from any other. and its grain and consistency
must be observed before it is cut. It is here that the art comes
in. Watching the itamae at work. cutting and slicing swiftly and
unerringly with his number of knives. one might think only a certain
dexterity is required. Not in the slightest. Between each lightning
stroke there is calculation. deliberation. choice.
All of this the apprentice. now an assistant. must observe. Later.
he will himself practice. Finally, he will receive his license from the
itamae and be ready to appear on his own as a full-fledged sushi-Va.
In due course he may expect either to continue with the master or to
open his own shop.
This method of learning is one shared with other Japanese arts.
Apprentices to the woodcarver, to the Kabuki actor, to the metal-
worker. and to the stonecutter undergo similar training. Watch and
imitate-this is how a Japanese art is learned. One understands
eventually not only the techniques but also the all important
attitude of the master toward his discipline. It is the attitude that
makes the master-and also contributes considerably toward the
mystique of sushi.
At any rate, it is said that the tsu, ferreting out new sushi shops,
looks first at the apprentices. If they are alert and busy, watchful
and obliging. if they put out more hot tea without being asked, at
the same time keeping a learning eye on the shop master. then the
chances are that the attitude of the place is proper and that good
sushi may be the outcome.
How then can the non-tsu. knowing nothing of any of this. pick
the proper place to enjoy this not inexpensive delicacy? He can
begin by making it a rule never to have sushi in a place that does
not serve only it. Sushi in ordinary restaurants. cafeterias. and the
like is always bad-the only bad sushi one runs the risk of eating in
Japan. Therefore. always repair to the sushi shop. But which, among
the thousands available?
The Japanese. of course, would never approach the problem in
this fashion. They would instead go to a sophisticated friend and ask
his opinion. Then. after some consideration. the friend would name a
shop that had his trust and probably his patronage. Better. he might
take the inquiring friend there himself and introduce him. Indeed. to
the best shops of all, as to the best bars. an introduction is necessary.
If one has no knowledgeable friends. then trial and error is the
only solution. In general an old shop is better than a new one. and a
small shop is better than a large one. There is also one other can
sideration-price. Any sushi shop in Japan serves very good sushi.
but really extraordinary sushi costs. One way of determining the
potential price is to observe the sushi shop sign or window. Inex-
pensive places. those listing the prices, are well worth the visit.
and those serving the finest and the most expensive sushi list no
prices at all.
The oaiso, the bill. is another important element entering into the
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sushi mystique. Though perhaps beginning as a fast food, it has now
become-at the best places-the most expensive cuisine in Japan.
A meal at a first-class sushi shop costs twice as much as a full
steak dinner. and everyone knows how expensive beef is in Japan.
The reason is, of course, that the best shops serve the best fish,
and the days are now long gone when tuna frolicked in Tokyo Bay.
Nowadays a fresh tuna at Tokyo's Tsukiji fish market can cost
thousands of dollars. and enough of the marbled underside of a tuna
to make four servings costs well over twenty-five dollars. And these
prices are wholesale-without overhead and profit added.
So. be prepared for something special when the itamae totes up
the bilL (This, as befitting his near sacerdotal status. he does wIth
expected panache: he has memorized just what every one of his
twenty-some customers has had and with calculator swiftness
writes the amount on a small slip of paper that he discreetly hands
over.) A hundred dollars a person is quite ordinary. In a really fine
shop the bill can come to much more. One can also, however, eat
fairly well for twenty-five dollars. but do not expect superb marbled
tuna.
The first-class shops serve only freshly caught seafood. Other
shops serve seafood flown into Japan. usually frozen: sea urchins
from Los Angeles. prawns from Mexico. squid from Africa. herring
and tuna from the Atlantic. Some tastes survive the journey. Others
do not.
This means that the master and his assistants must be expert
shoppers as well. The itamae goes to the fish market himself. early in
the morning. and makes the earliest and best choices. He takes only
the finest portions of the day's catch and rejects far more than he
purchases. He will know exactly which fishmonger. among the
hundreds in the entire market. to go to for which seafood. He will
probably not take part in the fish auctions held daily, because he will
already have made his purchase privately earlier.
Finally. loaded down, he and his assistants will return to the shop
and begin the day's work, preparing for the early morning tsu who
wants his breakfast straight from the sea.
There is in Japan at present a general concern about the price
of sushi and the (un)availability of materials. One representative
recently said: "With raw material costing so much. the traditional
sushi industry cannot survive." This representative. to be sure. was
connected with the traditional sushi shop's greatest rival, a vast
fast-food chain devoted to sushi. This outfit. Japan's largest and
far outdistancing such petty foreign rivals as McDonalds. Mister
Donut and Colonel Sanders. has almost two thousand sushi outlets
in Japan. and last year it showed a profit of almost sixty-three
billion yen.
Its "secret." says the representative. is to use the best possible
Japanese ingredients (they do not define "possible") coupled with
American merchandizing and marketing techniques. Buying in
massive bulk. they are able to charge less per item. and mechaniza-
tion cuts down on expensive labor. And. as for the apprentice
system and the making of nigiri-zushi, well. "anyone can learn to
make sushi in ten days:' So much for the tsu.
So much as well for the ambience. the skill. the dedication. the
technique. and the art of sushi-making at its best. Still. the majority
of sushi shops in Japan are as yet privately owned. and they seem
nearly always to be filled. At least a part of the population remains
willing to pay high prices in return for the complete sushi experience:
taste. sight. decor. performance. bill. and all. So long as such
customers survive, so will the art of sushi.
As for the taste and savor of sushi. it is always good and (since
you cannot eat mystiques) easy enough to enjoy even at home.
First. you go to the fish market. ...
Donald Richie
xv
Ingredients and Basic Preparations
The repertoire of sushi chefs IS expanding at an amazing rate. and
chefs at home. experimenting with new combinations of ingredients.
are creating many new sushi dishes. Given this situation, It is easy to
see that the compilation of a complete list of sushI Ingredients is an
Impossible task. Therefore. the ingredients included here are only
those featured in the recipes that follow. You may find foods that
are new to you; you may also be surprised to come across familiar
ones.
Once you've decided which dish you'd like to prepare. consult
thiS list when you are selecting the required ingredIents and utensils.
In cases where substitution is possible. specifiC recommendations
have been included. Most of the Ingredients that appear are probably
at your local fish market or sitting on the shelves of a well-stocked
supermarket. A triP to an Oriental prOVisions store Will turn up any
that are not. For Illustratrons of many ingredients and utensils.
consult pages 15. 16, 33. and 34
Vegetables, Dried Foods, and Liquids
Bamboo Shoots (Takenoko)
The tender shoots of the bamboo plant are harvested only between
March and May. Cut Into pieces. fresh shoots. with their unique
crunchiness and aroma. are a gourmet's delight. When fresh shoots
are not available you can use dried. bottled. or canned varieties. In a
few simple steps the preserved varieties can be made to taste almost as
good as fresh shoots. Preserved shoots often have a white substance
clinging to the pieces. or suspended in the canning water. This is
not harmful but it does detract from the shoots' appearance and
taste. To get rid of this substance. wash the shOals in fresh water
and boil them for 2-3 minutes. Bamboo shoots should be cooked
and seasoned before eating.
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Seasoned Bamboo Shoots
150 grams bamboo shoots. cut into bite-size pieces
1 scant cup stock no. 2 (page 6)
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon mirin
2 teaspoons soy sauce
Mix the liquid ingredients and the salt and sugar in a saucepan. Add
the cut bamboo shoots and cook over low heat until the liquid is
reduced by half. Remove the pan from the heat and allow to cool
before using.
Bean Curd (Tofu)
Bean curd. or totu. has become the center of much attention
among Western cooking enthusiasts. Besides containing supremely
nutritious vegetable protein. the delicate taste and custardlike texture
of this soybean product has found its way into many new and
interesting Western dishes as well as some familiar ones. for example.
hamburger patties and cheesecake. In Japan. it is one of the staples
of the traditional diet. Eaten as is with a variety of flavorings or
cooked in any number of ways it is a delicious accompaniment to any
Japanese meal.
The IVOry cakes of fresh bean curd themselves are not used when
making sushi. but two types of cooked bean curd are. A thin slice of
bean curd that has been deep-fried (abura age). seasoned on the
sweet side. is used to form a small pouch that is stuffed with sushi
rice and other ingredients to make Fox Sushi (page 104). It is
available at most Japanese food shops. either fresh or in cans. Kari
dotu (or kava-datu) is the freeze-dried cousin of the familiar bean
curd cake. The bean curd used to make freeze-dried bean curd is
denser than the bean curd that IS eaten fresh. It IS also richer in
protein. Freeze-dried bean curd is readily identifiable by its sponge-
like appearance. When buying it. select those Ihat are light yellow in
color. finely grained and lustrous. and light in weIght. Most freeze-
dried bean curd has to be reconstituted before eating. but there is
also an "instant"" freeze-dried bean curd on the market that can be
cooked as it comes out of the package. Sometimes this instant variety
comes mixed with seasonings or a soup base to which you add
boiling water to ready it for use. lIke several other sushi ingredients.
freeze-dried bean curd must be cooked and seasoned before
eating.
Seasoned Freeze-dried Bean Curd
4 pieces freeze-dried bean curd
1 2/3 cups stock no. 2 (page 6)
2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon mirin
1/2 teaspoon salt
Place bean curd in bowl and cover with boiling water. Use a
saucepan lid that filS inside the bowl to keep the bean curd sub-
merged. Once the pieces are well soaked and soft. press them
between your hands to squeeze out the water. making sure not to
tear or crumble them. Repeat this operation until the water that
comes out of the bean curd is clear. Combine stock. sugar. soy sauce.
mirin. and salt In a saucepan and add the reconstituted bean curd.
8011 over low or moderate heat for about 10 minutes. (Here. too. set
a small lid inside the saucepan to keep the bean curd submerged.)
Cool to room temperature. Cut to desired size.
Bonito Shavings (Katsuo-bushi)
The shaved flakes of dried bonito. called katsua-bushi. are very
aromatic and tasty. They can be eaten as is. sprinkled over a hot
bowl of nce. for example. but most Importantly they are used. along
wllh kombu. 10 make the baSIC Japanese stocks called dash,. To
prepare a bonito fillet for shaVing. it is first bar led in water to rid it
of all fat and oil. Then it is smoked and dried repeatedly until It
becomes rock hard. A seeding with mold completes the process.
Flakes can be obtained from the hardened fillet in two ways: either
shave the fillet on a special plane flued into a box or Simply buy
preshaved fJakes. called hana-gatsuo or kezuri-bushi ShaVings of
bonito should not be confused with Ihose of mackeral pike or horse
mackeral. The flavors of these do not compare In any way With
that of bonito shaVings. Whether you shave the fillet yourself or buy
packaged flakes. the shavings cannot be kepI for 100 long or they
wdllose their flavor and aroma. Therefore. shave the fillet just before
u S I ~ g and keep the preshaved flakes in an airtight package In the
refflgerator. If packaged flakes are unavailable. a stock concentrate.
which comes in powdered or liquid form. can be substituted. II
IS used Just like instant bouillon preparation. The methods and
ingredients for making stock differ according to what it IS to be used
for. Stock that IS the base for a clear soup must necessarily be more
carefully seasoned than one that IS used for cooking vegetables.
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6
In either case, high quality kombu and bonito shavings are essential
for making delicious stocks.
Stock No.1, for clear soup (ichiban dashi)
4 cups water
1O-cm-square piece of dried kombu
10-15 grams bonito shavings
Bring the water to a boil in a saucepan. Wipe the kombu clean
a damp cloth. Make a few slashes in the leaf with the tip of a knife
and drop in the boiling water. (If you have time to spare, allow the
kombu to soak in the water overnight before placing It on the stove.)
Just before the water reaches the second boil remove the kombu
and set it aside. (It will be used again in the next recipe.) Reduce
the heat and stir the shavings into the hot water. Remove the
saucepan from the heat. Strain the stock through a sieve lined with
a cotton cloth. Set the shavings aside. (They will be used agam
m the next recipe.)
Stock No.2, for cooking vegetables and miso soup (niban dashi)
Combine the kombu and bonito shavings leftover from the prepara-
tion of stock no. , in a saucepan with 3 1/3 cups of water. Place the
pan over high heat. Just before the water reaches boil rerr:ove.
the kombu. Lower the heat. Simmer over low heat until about 20Y., 01
the water has evaporated. Strain through a sieve lined with a cotton
cloth.
Burdock (Gobo)
A member of the aster family. this long. slender root vegetable
is harvested year-round. But burdock pulled out of the ground in
early spring is considered the tastiest. The fibers and slight .
bitterness of burdock are said to be highly effective in preventing
geriatric disorders. To bring out its flavor. burdock is simmered
In a seasoned stock.
Seasoned Burdock
200 grams unpeeled burdock
1 scant cup stock no. 2 (page 6)
2 teaspoons sugar
2 teaspoons midn
1 tablespoon soy sauce
Scrape off the skin of the burdock with the backSide of a knife. If
the burdock is very slender, cut the root into thm slices. Otherwise,
cut it lengthwise into two or four parts before slicing. Boil the
burdock slices in water until they become tender. Mix the remaining
ingredients in a separate saucepan. Add the tenderized burdock slices
and simmer until the liquid is reduced by half. Cool.
Deep-fried Bean Curd Slices, see Bean Curd
Devil's- Tongue Jelly (Konnyaku)
Konnyaku is the grayish brown or pale gray cake of gelatinous
paste made from the processed tuberous corms of the devil's tongue
plant. It is made up almost wholly of water and is very low in
calories. Besides being an ideal food for dieters. it also contains
calcium and is alkaline. It is available fresh. canned. Of in instant
form at most Japanese provisions stores.
Dried Sardines (Niboshi)
Sun-dried sardines. called niboshi, are used for preparing a stock
Similar to but more strongly flavored than stock made with bonito
shavings (page 6). These small, silvery fish are rich in protein and
calcium. The best are distinguished by straight whole bodies that
glisten and feature a slight touch of green on the spine.
Dried Sardine Stock
4 cups water
15-20 grams dried sardines
Snap off the heads and belly parts of all sardines, Split each fish m
two lengthwise. Rinse lightly in water and place in a saucepan
containing cold water, Place pan over heat and bring to a boil. Boil for
about 6-7 minutes. constantly skimming the surface for impurities
that rise to the surface. Strain. Adding a 1O-cm-square piece of
kombu to the water and then removing it just before the water boils
\,IIIill greatly enhance the flavor of this stock.
Eggs (Tamago)
The slightly sweet flavor and bright yellow color of an omelet
serves to balance the taste and appearance of a sushi meal. Just as
there are many varieties of sushi so there many ways to prepare
eggs to complement this rice dish. But in general. only three styles
are used, all of them omelets' a thin omelet. a rolled omelet. and a
7
thick omelet made with ground fish meat. These omelets are usually
cooked In the special square omelet pan described on page 46. But a
standard round frying pan about 25-26 cm in diameler (and not too
heavy) can be used in its stead. The recipe that follows gives
instructions for making a thin omelet with a conventional frying pan.
Thin Omelet
6-8 omelets
4 eggs
1 1{2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon sugar
Beat the eggs and add the sugar and salt Mix well. Heat the frying
pan until it starts to smoke. Oil the surface of the pan. Remove any
excess oil. Pour a generous amount of the egg mixture into the pan
(1). Tilt the pan over the heat. thus coating the entire surface with
the egg mixture (2). Pour the excess egg mixture back into the
mixing bowl (3). Cook over moderately high heat. tiltlOg the pan
from side to side so only the outer edges of the pan come Into
contact With the heat (4). Once the outer edges of the omelet are
cooked. the center will also be done-without a scorch! Remove
the pan from the heat and turn the omelet over with your hands (5).
Cook the reverse side Just long enough to dry and set the omelefs
surface (6). Remove the omelet from the pan and allow It to cool to
room temperature on a flat surface. Repeat this procedure until all
Ihe egg mixture has been used. Once cool. the omelets can be cut to
any desired shape.
Rolled Omelet
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ThiS type of omelet IS used In many varietIes of sushI. It can also be
served by itself; a thin slice, secured with a narrow strip of non to
a finger of sushi rice. and a thick slice of rolled omelet are colorful
addItions to a plate of finger sushI.
5 eggs
2-3 tablespoons stock no. 1 (page 6)
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon mirin
1{2 teaspoon salt
MIX all the ingredients In a miXing bowl. (Some cooks strain the
eggs through a collon cloth to obtain a finer texture.) Make sure the
salt and sugar dissolve. Heat a square Japanese omelet pan until it
9
starts to smoke. Evenly 011 the pan with an oil-soaked cloth (1).
Remove any excess 011. Pour in about one quarter of the egg mixture
(2). Once It has set. fold It toward you in two steps (3). lIghtly oil
the exposed pan surface (4) With chopstIcks or a small spatula.
move the folded omelet to the far end of the pan and lightly oil the
exposed pan surface. Pour another quarter of the egg mixture In the
pan (5). making sure some seeps underneath the first roll. Once It
has set. roll the flrst rolled sectIon toward you over the cooked egg
(6-7). Oil the pan. move the roll to the far end of the pan and repeat
the procedure until all the egg mixture has been used. Remove the
rolled omelet from the pan and place It on a bamboo rolling mat. Press
with the rolling mat to give the omelet a rectangular shape.
7
6
Thick Omelet with Ground Fish Meat
This omelet is heartier that a rolled omelet but IS used to top finger
sushi in the same way.
5 eggs
70 grams white fish meat, or a pounded fish-meat preparation
called hanpen. If avaIlable
1/2 teaspoon satt
2 tablespoons sugar
In a mixing bowl. beat the eggs well. Add the salt and sugar. Grind
the fish meat (or hanpen) in a grinding bowl and add to the egg
mixture. Heat and oil a square Japanese omelet pan over moderale
heal. Pour In the egg-and-flsh mixture and cover. Reduce the heat
and cook for about 10 minutes. or until the omelet has set. Remove
the lid and turn the omelet over with a spatula. Cook the reverse
side for a few seconds to sel lhe omelet.
Freeze-dried Bean Curd, see Bean Curd
Ginger Root (Shoga)
The root of the ginger plant IS familiar to most Western cooks.
It plays an important role in Japanese cooking. lending a touch of
sharpness and [Link] \0 many dishes. This is particularly true of
sushi. When eating sushi pickled ginger slices called sudori shoga
(ga,,: in the jargon of sushi fans) are always served. Taken between
bites. It freshens the palate so you can fully savor the unique taste of
each type of sushi. When making sushi at home a good supply of
pickled ginger slices IS essentral.
11
72
Matchstick-size strips of ginger root that have been soaked in watler
for five minutes, called hari shoga, are used as a garnish in many
foods. Pink-dyed ginger strips. called ben; shoga. are also a
familiar garnish. To make beni shoga: peel and slice ginger root.
Blanch the slices in salted boiling water. Soak in the juice of
umeboshi until they turn pink. Slice into strips and use as desired.
Yet another pickled garnish is made from ginger stalks. This is called
hajikami shaga or tude shoga. Recipes for pickled ginger slices and
stalks follow.
Pickled Ginger Slices
50 grams fresh ginger root, peeled
Marinade
3 tablespoons rice vinegar
2 tablespoons stock no. 2 (page 6)
1 tablespoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
In a bowl. combine the vinegar and stock. Add the sugar and stir
until dissolved. Set aside. Peel and slice the ginger root as thin as
paper. Soak in cold water for about 5 minutes. Blanch the slices in
salted boiling water for 3 ~ 5 seconds. While still hot. add the slices to
the vinegar and stock marinade. Marinate for at least 30 minutes.
Drain the slices and serve. Pickled ginger sli-::es can be made in
quantity and refrigerated for future use.
Pickled Ginger Stalks
ginger stalks, 7-8 cm in length
marinade for pickled ginger slices. enough to cover the stalks
Prepare the marinade as for pickled ginger. Blanch the stalks in
salted boiling water. While still hot. add the stalks to the marinade.
Once the stalks have turned a pale pink they are ready to eat. These
can be made in quantity and refrigerated for future use
Kampyo
The ribbonlike dried strips of the calabash or bottle gourd are
called kampyo in Japanese. If they are of good quality. the strips are
well-dried. white in color. of uniform thickness, and have a slightly
sweet fragrance. When selecting shavings. avoid those that are
slightly brown. a sign of age, or unnaturally white. an indication
that they have been bleached. Such shavings do not approach the
taste of fresh. unbleached shavings. Before using these for cooking
they must be tenderized and seasoned.
Seasoned Kampyo
20 grams kampyo
2 1/2 cups stock no. 2 (page 6)
4 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons mirin
2-3 tablespoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon salt
Rinse the kampyo strips thoroughly. Sprinkle them with salt and
knead gently. Soak in tepid water for about 10 minutes. Boil the
kampyo in the soaking water until soft and tender. Drain. Place the
tenderized kampyo in a medium-size saucepan. Add the stock
and bring to a boil. Add the sugar and mirin and simmer for 10-15
minutes. Add the salt and soy sauce and simmer for another 5
minutes. (As the time required for the kampyo to absorb the flavors
varies. the procedure is staggered.) Drain and cool to room tem-
perature.
Kombu
Kombu, or kelp. thrives only in the coldest sea water. The dark
brown leaves are harvested during the summer. After a thorough
drying in the hot summer sun they are cut. folded. and sealed in
airtight packages. Kombu is rich in glutamic acid. calcium. iodine.
and iron. This versatile leaf is also shaved into paperlike sheets which
are called obara kombu. Sheets of the shaved white heart of the
leaf are called shiraita kombu. The dark. dried leaves of this seaweed
are among the basic ingredients of the stocks that are used in
cooking many Japanese foods. As is true with most basic ingredi-
ents. when purchasing kelp irs best to pay a little more for a higher
quality product.
Leaves (Hal
Cutout leaves are used to separate different kinds of sushi when
they are arranged together. They keep the different tastes from
mixing. prevent the sushi from discoloring, and add an accent of
color to the arrangement. The large leaves of the bamboo plant have
been used widely since olden days for wrapping food and as a
decoration. This led to their use in sushi. Aspidistra leaves are also
used to decorate arrangements of sushi at sushi shops. When these
73
are not available almost any leaf will do as long as it is clean
and free of pesticides (maple leaves are particularly elegant).
Nowadays artificial cutouts of plastic are available. but as these are
not nearly as attractive as real leaves their use is not recommended.
Irs better to do a little searching in your own area to find leaves
to accent your sushi creations.
There is a special knife for making leaf cutouts but a smaiL sharp
knife will produce equally good results. To cut a shape from a large
leaf. wet the underSIde of the leaf so that it will stick to the cutting
surface. Hold the leaf down with one hand and cut the shape with
the other. holding the knife near the tip of the blade as if grasping a
pencIl. For symmetrical shapes. fold the leaf in half before cutting.

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Lotus Root (Renkon)
The crunchy root of the lotus plant can be cooked in a variety
of ways: simmered with vegetables. dressed with vinegar or sesame
seeds. or deep fried as tempura. It is also used in rolled sushi and
scattered sushi. It is rich in vitamin C. If you are lucky enough to be
there when tubers are harvested in the early fall. those nearest the
plant are the most delicious. Lotus root is obtainable year-round
and can be stored for a considerable length of time. but once cut.
the root must be used within a few days or else it wiil turn brown
and unsightly and lose its distinctive flavor.
To prepare lotus root. first pare it. Cut or slice the white meat to
the required size and shape and then soak it in water acidulated with
1-2 tablespoons of vinegar to prevent it from discoloring and to rid
it of any harshness in flavor. When boiling the lotus root. add a
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14
Packaged dried foods and liquids: 1. rice vinegar. 2. darkcoIorBd soy sauce. 3. light-colored
soy saUCB. 4. mirin. 5. sake. 6. ricB, 7. dried sardinBs. 8. fried bean curd. 9. umBboshi. 10. S88
urchin pastB. 71. S88 urchin. 12. grHn rBa. 13-74. toastBd nor,: 75. kombu. 16. driBd bonito.
77. boniro shavings. 18. freezedriBd b8an curd. with soup baSB. 19. shiraita kombu,
20. oboro kombu. 21. kampyo, 22. shiirakB. 23. wassbi pastB. 24. pink-dyed pickled ginger
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PfJckaged dried foods and liquids: r. rice vinegar. 2. dark-colored soy sauce, 3.
soy sauce. 4. mirin, 5. sake. 6. rice. 7. dried sardines. 8. fried bean curd. 9. umeboshi. 10. sea
urchin paste, 11. sea urchin, 12. green lea. 13-14. toasted nori. 15. kombu. 16. dried bonito.
17. bonilO shavings. 18. 'reeze-dried beM curd, with soup base. 19. shiraita kombu.
20. oboro kombu. 21. kampyo. 22. shiitake. 23. wasabi paste, 24. pink-dyed pickled ginger
strips. 25. insumt vinegar dressing. 26. while sesame seeds. 27. black sesame seeds.
75
5

13
small amount of vinegar to the water. Care should be taken when
boiling the root. because it will lose its whiteness and crunchiness if
boiled for 100 long.
Mirin
Mirin is a sweet wine made from various kll1ds of glullllOuS rice.
It is one of the basic ingredients of the vinegar dressillg for susll;
rice. adding aroma. a touch of sweetness. and a pearllike luster to
the finished product. There are two types of mirin. han mirin and
shin minn. Their flavors are slightly different. but either can be used
for making sushi rice. When mirin is not available a pale dry sherry.
in a lesser amount than what is called for. can be substituted. Sugar
can also be used in its stead but only in an emergency-mirin does
more than simply sweeten sushi rice. it deepens the flavor. some-
thing that sugar cannot do.
Mountain Yam (Yamaimo)
The long. hairy. mountain yam is both found in the wild and
cultivated. The latter variety is commonly called nagaimo. Eating
this yam is said to be good for digestion and to help lower high
blood pressure. The gluey. yet crisp Quality of the mountain yam
makes it a very delicious combination with cod roe and bonito
shavings in Handrolled Sushi (page 98).
To prepare this vegetable for eating. peel it rather thickly and soak
it in vinegared water for 20-30 minutes to eliminate any bitterness.
Generally speaking. the thicker portion of a yam is the tastiest.
Nano
The fermented soybean product called natto has a very distinctive
aroma and is quite glutinous. It often makes an appearance in the
traditional Japanese breakfast. Like most soybean products. it is
highly nutritious.
Nod
Sheets of dried laver. called nori. are used for rolling up vinegared
rice and a number of other ingredients to make many varieties of
sushi. To make sheets of nori. seaweed is gathered from the sea.
washed. and then chopped into small pieces. After being washed in
fresh water to remove any salt. the pieces of seaweed are then
poured into a large. square frame and dried. The sheets that result
are cut into manageable sizes and packaged. A nutritious food. nori
is rich in yitamins A. 8
1
8
2
_ 8
6
8
12
C. and D. as well as iodine.
Vegetables: 1. rakuan. 2. coltsfoot. 3. green beans. 4. snow peas, 5. lotus root. 6.
mountain yam. 7. burdock, 8. shiso. 9. wasabi. 10. carrot. 11. spinach 12. cucumber.
13. bamboo shoO/so
17
18
and has been shown highly effective in curbing the formation of
cholesterol deposits in blood vessels.
When selecting nori for sushi. look for sheets that are absolutely
dry. highly aromatic. smooth to the touch. shiny and dark. and of
even thickness. Sheets with holes or that are brown in color will not
do for rolling sushi. Oftentimes. nori comes in a bundle of ten sheets
(each sheet measuring 20.5 )( 17.5 cm) folded in two. the "fronf"
on the outside, and sealed in cellophane.
Lightly toasting nori over an open flame will greatly enhance
its flavor and aroma and make it crisp. To toast. place two sheets.
"back" Sides out. together. and pass them over an open flame.
Repeat thIS procedure with the "front" sides out. Once lOasted, nod
absorbs moisture Quickly, so don't wait too long to use it aher
toasting.
Oboro Kombu. see Kombu
Rice (Kame)
The taste and lexture of cooked rice is central to the sushi
experience. Thus the selection of the ptOper type and Quality of this
[Link] ingredient must be made with great care. Because rice
IS cultivated over a WIde area there are Innumerable brands and
types to select from. But thIS should not deter you. Simply stated,
the best rice to buy IS white. short-grain. Japanese rice that comes
in a package marked "for sushi:' A well-stocked Oriental provisions
store WIll be your source for this. But. if none is available, the second
chOice is SImply whIte, short-grain or long-grain rice. Instant rice
will nOI do. Newly harvested rice should be avoided because it tends
to be sticky when cooked. Older rice is considered the best. If new
rice IS all that IS available. simply reduce the amount of water when
cooking. For more specifIC instructions on how to cook rice, see
page 48.
If you are In a Quandary about which rice to choose. watch for
grains that seem somewhat transparent and that are generally equal
In size. Avoid grains that are marked with white streaks or cracks.
Sesame Seeds (Gama)
Sesame seeds add flavor and aroma to several sushi dishes.
White sesame seeds are the most common. but black and yellow
varieties also find their way into some dishes. Sesame seeds are rich
In calcium. Vitamins B
l
and E. and polyunsaturated fatty linolenic
acids.
While it's fine to use sesame seeds as they are. roasting them
enhances their characteristic flavor and aroma. To roast. simply heat
a small frying pan. toss in the seeds. and, stirring constantly, warm
them until three or four seeds have jumped. By that time they should
have turned a golden brown. Remove the seeds from the pan im-
mediately.
Shiitake
In its natural state, the shiitake mushroom grows on the trunks of
pasania, chestnut. and various species of oak trees. In recent years.
this relalively large species of mushroom has come to be artificially
cultIvated. It contains ergosterol and vitamin B
2
, and it has been
discovered that a substance found in this mushroom checks the
increase of cholesterol in blood vessels. Although fresh shiitake are
delicious, dried ones are used when preparing sushi. This is because
the mushroom's taste and aroma increases with drying. When
selecting dried shiitake, make sure they are thoroughly dried. feature
a hood that is brown and slightly glossy. are short-stemmed, and
have a rich aroma. The thicker the hood of the mushroom, the better
the taste and aroma. The pflce of dried shiitake vanes according to
how well the mushrooms are formed, not according to their size and
taste. If small pieces are called for in a recipe, buy the cheaper brand
with less perfect shapes. To augment the taste of shiitake, they should
be cooked and seasoned prior to use.
Seasoned Shiitake
10 pieces, about 10 grams each, dried shiitake
4-5 ti'blespoons sugar
4-5 tablespoons soy sauce
4 1/2 teaspoons mirin
Rinse the mushrooms with water and soak until they have returned
to their natural shape and become soft to the touch. (The time
required for them to reach this state varies, but 30 minutes is usually
SUfficient.) Cut off the stems. Place the reconstituted mushroom
hoods in a small saucepan and add enough of the soaking water to
cover. Bring the water to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 2-3
minutes. Add the sugar and soy sauce. Simmer until the liquid has
evaporated. stirring from time to time to keep the mushrooms from
sticking to the pan. Add the mirin and rock the saucepan so that the
boiled-down liquid adheres to the mushrooms. Cool to room tem-
perature and cut to desired size.
19
20
Shiraita Kombu. see Kombu
Shiso
Shiso. a member of the mint family, IS known In the West as perilla or
beefsteak plant. There are two species of shiso that are eaten in
Japan. one with green leaves and stems and another with purplish
red leaves and stems. $hlso is rich in vitamins A and C and also
contains substantial amounts of calcium. iron. and phosphorus.
Green-leaf shlso has a unique aroma and taste and is used In many
vaneties of sushi. in dressed. saladllke dishes. and in tempura. Red-leal
ShlSO is used for coloring umeboshi. ginger. and various other
Japanese pickles. The shiso plant. with its beautiful serrated leaves,
reaches maturity in the summer. The delicately colored flowering
seed pods are used as a garnish on a plate of sashimi.
Soy Sauce (Shoyu)
Soy sauce is the familrar rich. brown sauce made from a fermented
mIxture of brine. wheat malt. and soybeans which is called shoyu
In Japanese. While the taste of soy sauce may differ from brand to
brand. generally speaking there are two basic types: the dark-colored
koi kuchi shoyu and the light-colored usu kuchi shoyu. The latter
IS less fragrant and contains more salt. Not so popular in Japan is a
third type called taman. It is much thicker and has a stronger soybean
flavor than either of the two more common types of soy sauce. Dark-
colored soy sauce serves for almost all home cooking and is used to
season many dishes. It IS also the type of soy sauce served With sushi.
The soy sauce that IS available outside Japan is most often of the
dark-colored type. It stays fresh longer. thus retaining its flavor. If it
is kept in a cool. dark place.
Takuan
TaIwan IS a pale yellow or pale brown pickle made from a large.
white dalkon radish that has been dried and pickled In flce bran and
salt, It is named after the famous Zen priest Takuan (1573-1645),
who was the first to make it. Takuan can be eaten as is. or it can be
desalted and ffled in oil. It is available at Oriental provisions stores in
either canned form or in large barrels filled with rice bran and salt.
Avoid purchasing takuan that is artificially colored bright yellow.
Trefoil (Mitsuba)
Three species of trefoil. a perenmal member of the parsley family, are
eaten in Japan: kin-mllsuba. aka-mltsuba. and ne-mitsuba. Often
referred to simply as miSlUba, trefoil IS a highly aromatic plant whose
stems and leaves are used to accent the flavors of many foods and
as a garnish.
As soon as possible after purchasing trefoil. place the cut ends of
the sIems in a glass of cold water. This will keep the leaves from
wilting and retain the trefoil's distinctive aroma. Add trefoil to a soup
only after you have turned off the heat; when uSing it as a soup
garnish, add trefOil to the soup bowl Just before serving.
Umeboshi
Umeboshl is the dark red. salted pickle made from a species of plum.
The piquant taste of umeboshi goes well With sushi rice. To make
umeboshi. green plums. still quite hard. are pickled in brine: red shiso
leaves are added for flavor and color. This mixture is covered with a
weighted lid and left to sit for a month or so. The half-pickled plums
are then dried in the sun and again packed away In the brine mixture
for yet another month. What results is one of the staples of the tradi-
tional Japanese diet. It can be found tn bottled form in nearly every
Oriental provisions store. Bainiku. a preparation of pitted umeboshl
that has been flavored WIth mlrin is also available In bottled form.
Bottles of umeboshi and bainiku. once they are opened. should
be kept in the refrigerator. There they will keep almost indefinitely.
Vinegar (Su)
Rice vinegar is. without doubt. the Single most Important flavoring
In sushI. It perfectly complements the taste and texture of cooked
flce and the tang of wasab,. The fragrances of wine vinegar and
apple vinegar are too overpowering for sushi; they would obliterate
the delicate flavors of the dish. What IS more. rice vir:legar has many
nutritional benefits. not the least of which is that it aids digestion.
It also acts as a disinfectant. Before you handle sushi rice. irs a good
idea to drench your hands In a solution of vinegar and water. The nce
will be much easier to handle and your hands Will be all the cleaner.
The mild taste of rice vinegar is fast becoming a favorite of many
Western cooking enthusiasts. It is available in nearly all Onental
provisions Stores.
Wasabi
Wasabi has the power 10 efface the smell of fish. II is an absolute
must for making finger sushI (page 63) and mixed with soy sauce
makes a delicious sauce for sashimi.
A perennial plant of the coleseed family indIgenous to Japan.
27
wasabl grows along the banks of pure, cold streams. It grows only
3 cm a year, takIng several years to reach maturity. In Japan, It is
cultivated In mountain terraces through which mountain water is
allowed to run, It IS claimed that the sharp taste of wasabl stimulates
the stomach. helps digestion. and neutralizes any poison.
Fresh wasabl that appears pasty and green in color is the best.
When grating wasabl. wash it clean. pare away the brownish skin
and remove the eyes. and grate from the part nearest the stalk. Use
wasabl Immediately after grating ;t because once grated It begins to
lose Its bite, For the same reason, grate only enough alone time to
meet your ImmedIate needs.
Fresh wasabl IS hard to obtain in the West. but there are sub-
stitutes-a powdered version and one that comes in a tube. The
first IS SImply mixed With waler IOta a thick paste. covered, and
allowed to Sit for a few minutes to reach its tangy peak of flavor,
Wasabi 10 a lube is used Simply as it comes out. Once opened the
tube variety should be kept In the refrigerator.
Beware: Western horseradIsh IS neither aromatiC enough nor
delicate enough In taste to even be considered as a substitute.
Fish and Shellfish
soon as pOSSible. Once dressed it must be kept cool. If it is to be
used within a short period of time. place It in your refrigerator after
covering it with a damp cloth. If the dressed fish IS to stay refriger-
ated for more than half a day. seal it in plastiC wrap. If left uncov-
ered. dressed fish will dry out In the refrigerator.
The taste of frozen lish depends on how well or how poorly it
has been thawed out. The very best way to thaw frozen fish is to
place it overnight in your refrigerator and allow it to thaw out
gradually. But. if you are in a hurry, thaw out the frozen flsh in salted
water: if It is a freshwater fish. place II In a solution of 4 cups of
water and 1 1/2 teaspoons of salt; if 11 is a saltwater fish. 4 cups of
water and 1 tablespoon of salt. This Will check most flavor loss. Do
not. however. thaw out the frozen fish completely. Once It can be
cut with a knife it is suffiCiently thawed out to use.
Filleting a fish for sushi can be done In one of two ways: the
three-part method (sanma; oroshi) or the five-part method (gomsi
oroshi). Following the three-part method one ends up with two
fillets and a skeleton. and follOWing the five-parr method. four fillets
and a skeleton. The three-part method IS used for fish shaped like sea
bream. mackerel. or gizzard shad. The five-part method IS for flatfish
such as flounder. The two methods are the same except for the
final cutting away of the fillets. therefore only the three-part method
Will be detailed With illustratIOns.
pectoral fjn
pelvic lin
23
caudal lin
caudal fin dorsal lin
gill cover
pectoral fin
pelvic fin - - - - - ~ ~
gill cover
Fish and shellfish deSllned lor beIng eaten as sushi mUSI first and
foremost be fresh. This IS because In most cases they Will be eaten
raw. KnOWing how to assess the freshness of a whole fish. pIeces of
fish meat, shellfish. and so on will improve your chances of finding
the freshest. and therefore most delicious. fish at the fish market or
the best preserved frozen fish at the supermarket.
Freshness IS of particular concern when considering whole fish.
that is, those fish sh,pped with their internal organs Intact. When
examining such fIsh make sure that the scales are Intact and gloSSY;
the flesh. reSilient: the eyes. black and clear. not bloody; the belly.
firm; the gills. bright red. And. there should be no fishy smell!
Bloody eyes and blackish gills are sure signs that the fish must be
cooked before being eaten.
When buying cuts of fish meat. make sure that the meat is firm
and has a sheen, and that the blood at the cut or sliced sections is
Vivid red. As washing fish meat in water leaches its flavor and makes
the flesh crumbly, irs best to buy a whole fish and dress it at home.
How to do that will be described shortly.
Once you have purchased a whole fish. it should be dressed as
22
,
,-------1
6 :Ii

'0 0----------,

2 -_-.",:""-;.... -.-A-,-"---'
., -2>-

,:V-
Three-part Method for Filleting Fish
Dampen both sides of the fish with a wet cloth. This will make
scaling easier (1). Hold down the head of the fish firmly with the left
hand and scrape off the scales with a knife or scaler held in the right
hand. moving from tail to head (2). Repeat the process on the other
side. When handling the fish. always hold it by the head or the tail
to keep the flesh firm. Place the head of the fish to the left with the
belly facing you. Lift up the pectoral fin and thrust the knife under-
neath it and make an incision in the direction of the pelvic fin (3).
Remove the head. Remove the entrails. by hand If necessary (4).
Next wash the fish clean in salted water. especially the cavity made
by the removal of the entrails. Wipe the fish dry with a cloth. Place
the fish diagonally on a cutting board with the belly facing fight and
the tail towards you. Cut from the pelvic fin toward the tall. Turn
the fish over. Insert the knife through the back. so that the blade
grazes the fib cage. and cut from right to left. all the way to the tail
(5). Turn the fish 180. With the point of the knife. cut through the
bones that form the top of the rib cage (6). Separate the fillet from
the body. Turn the fish over. bone side down. and cut the meat free
from the backbone. slicing from the tail to the head (7). Turn the
fish 180. Cut the meat at the base of the tail free from the back-
bone. Separate the fillet from the body. Cut off the bones of the rib
cage that are stili attached to the fillet (8). Place the fillet on a cut-
tmg board With the tail end to the left and the skin Side down. Make
an mClSlon at the base of the tail end. grip the skin of the tail end
with your left hand. insert the knife between the skin and the meat.
and with a sawmg motion separate the skin from the meat (9). Pull
out any bones that are embedded in the meat with tweezers (10).
If the fillet is particularly large. cut it 10 half lengthwise. lollowmg the
backbone line 10 the fillet.
r:; /'
------I
/
24
Five-part Method for Filleting Fish
Remove the head and entrails as in the three-part method. Place the
fish on a cutting board so that the tail is facing you and make an
incision along the center line from head to tail. Flip the fish over and
repeat the process on the other side. Cut off the four fillets. Skin
the fillets in the manner described for the three-part method.
When you are completed you will have the following: two sets
of belly bones. two belly fillets, two back fillets. the spine with bones
from the top side of the fish. and four pieces of engawa. Engawa is
the name given to the meat that is found next to the side fins of a
flatfish. The bigger the fish and the fins. the better the taste of the
engawa. Only four pieces of engawa can be obtained from one
flatfish. It is an excellent topping for finger sushi and is highly prized
by sushi enthusiasts.
When buying shellfish, make sure they are more than fresh-make
sure they are alive. This is a matter of some difficulty. seeing that
most shellfish arrive in a shell and even if you could open them
before buying. an old shellfish and a new one do not differ in color.
Do not despair. for there are a few sure signs of freshness you can
watch for: (1) shellfish should feel heavy when picked up, (2)
shells should be tightly closed, (3) shells should be regularly shaped
and uncracked. and (4) shellfish should not float-those that do are
most certainly dead.
Compared with fish. shellfish live much longer after being caught.
One need not worry too much about keeping them alive In water in
the refrigerator. Just be careful to check the temperature in the
refrigerator-if it dips too low the shellfish will die.
pages are necessary to fully describe the fish and shellfish that are
brought to market and find their way to restaurants and sushi shops
in Japan.
What follows is a brief description of some of those fish and
shellfish that are most commonly served as sushi in Japan. Where
necessary, special preparation techniques are included. As was
pointed out at the beginning of this section, only the freshest fish
and shellfish are served as sushi. The information presented here can
serve only as a guide. If you couple it with advice from your local
fishmonger you should be able to select the best seasonal fish or
shellfish.
Abalone (Awabi)
Finger sushi made with the meat of the abalone is a favorite of many
sushi fans. The taste of most clams depreciates during the summer
months, but not so the abalone. Hence it is doubly appreciated at
that time of the year. Abalone cannot be eaten raw unless it is alive.
If the meat contracts at the touch of your finger or seems to
overflow its shell, you can be sure it is still alive
The firmness of abalone meat differs accordmg to Its sex. The
tougher meat of the male abalone is what you want to buy for
making sushi.
To Prepare
Sprinkle the meat with a generous amount of salt. Scrub it
vigorously with a stiff brush to get rid of any sliminess and foreign
matter. Wash it in fresh water. Separate the meat from the shell by
inserting a rice paddle or flat wooden spoon under the meat on the
shallower side of the abalone and pry loose (1). Remove entrails
with a knife (2). Wash the meat clean and cut it into thin slices.
26
Japanese fishing boats ply the seas around the world in search of
innumerable varieties of fish and shellfish. Returning to Japan. they
layout their catch at anyone of the fish markets that are a feature of
all the major seaports. The largest of these in Japan. and in the
world, is at the Tokyo Central Wholesale Market. located in the
Tsukiji district of the Japanese capital An early-morning visit to this
great bustling market (the auction starts at 5:40 AM) will attest to
the efficient trolling and netting techniques developed by the
Japanese fishing fleets. It will also give very graphic proof of the
Japanese nation's voracIous appetite for seafood. Add to this, a visit
to one of the many small fish markets serviced by local fishermen.
and it will be easy to understand why hundreds of lavishly illustrated
2
,----_._------.
3
Ark Shell (Akagai)
Masl mollusks are neutral In color. but not so the ark shell. Its
dlstmctive vermilion color. due to a rich supply of hemoglobin in Its
blood. makes it an easy mark for the watchful shopper. A hteral
translation of the Japanese name for this mollusk IS red shellfish.
The tasle of ark shell IS best from autumn to early spring. As spring
turns Into summer the taste of ark shell decreases In qualIty. Ark shell
weighing about 100-220 grams are most suited for topping finger
sushi. As is the case with most mollusks. It 1$ best to prepare ark
shell Immediately before eating.
To Prepare
Wash the shell clean with a stiff brush. Insert the heel of a knife
blade between the shell halves and pry open (1). Remove the
adductor with your fingers (2). Be careful not to sever the threadlike
filaments which connect the flesh to the shell. With the tip of a
knife separate the filaments. called himo. from the meat (3-4).
These filaments are also delicious eaten as finger sushi. Cut open the
meat. scrape off the entrails with a knife. Cut away the thin mem
brane. Wash what remains 10 salted water.
/

I
4
Cockle (Torigai)
The bivalve mollusk known as cockle is similar in shape to ark shell
but it is a little wider across and thicker. It is also more flOely ribbed.
The brown and white triangular foot of this clam is an excellent
IOgredient for flOger sushi. Live cockles are hardly ever seen in the
market. Rather. cockles are shelled. and the foot cut. flattened
packed in a small box. and shipped out from where the were
gathered. When selecllOg cockles watch for the thIcker meat; It is of
better quality. but It IS also more expensive.
To Prepare
meat can be used as it is for flOger sushi. Before eating.
wash It thoroughly in salted water. If you like. you can also brush the
meat with a mixture of vinegar sweetened with sugar.
Conger Eel (Anago)
The Japanese anago eel is light brown in color and spotted. When
buying conger eels. look for ones that are round and fat. with an
underside tending toward yellow.
To Prepare
Place the fish on a cutting board. the head to the nght and the
back facing you. Pin the head down with a pointed IOstrument.
it between the eye and gills. Insert a knife through the
back. Just above the backbone. and laterally slice off the top fillel
from head to tall (1-2). Carefully lift off the fillet and flip it over onto
the cutting board. Cut through the backbone at the base of the head.
Insert the knife blade underneath the backbone and. holdlOg the
2
29

30
knife level, cuI off the entire backbone from head to tail (3) and
discard It. Remove the entrails. Cut off the dorsal fin. Scrape off the
slimy skin film with the back of the knife. Rinse the fillets in water
and dram. Season the conger eel fillets before eating.
3
Seasoned Conger Eel
6-8 eel fillets
scant 1/2 cup sake
scant 1/2 cup soy sauce
2 tablespoons mirin
2 tablespoons sugar
Combine sake. soy sauce. minn. and sugar in a saucepan and bring
to a bOIl. Place the eel fillets. skm side down, in the boiling liqUid.
Continue to boil the liquid and fillets for 7-8 more minutes. A lid
that Ills inSide the pan. directly over the fillets. will speed the process.
Remove the fillets from the pan and cool. Grilling the fdlets WIll
further enhance their aroma.
A second method of seasoning eel fillets is called shirani. The
manner of cooking IS the same as that described above, but the
ingredients differ. They are sugar. mirin. salt. and a very small
amount of soy sauce, all in amounts determined by individual taste.
This method produces paler colored and more delicately flavored
fdlets.
Eel (Unagi)
It is said In Japan that one who has mastered the art of dressing
live eels is an expert cook. This is because the body of an eel is so
extremely slippery. When considering eels for sushi. perhaps it is best
to buy them dressed. If that is impossible, follow the directions for
preparing conger eel.
When choosing an eel. be careful not to choose those that are
too large, for these do not taste as good as smaller eels. The most
savory are those weighing about 150 grams.
To Prepare
Cut the eel fillets Into 2-3 pieces each. Pierce each piece with a
skewer and gnll. Grill the skin Side first. then the meat side. Steam
the grilled pieces (over strong heat) for about 5 minutes. Drain.
Baste with a sauce of 3 parts mlnn and 1 part sugar. Gnll the pieces
a second time. basting the pieces 2-3 times while grilling.
Fish Eggs
Fresh salted cod roe (tarako), broken apart into separate eggs.
goes well with sushi nce. Quality cod roe can be distinguished by
its clear. reddish brown color. regular shape. and unpunctured
membrane. Avoid vivid red cod roe because It most probably has
been artIficially colored.
Salted hernng roe (kazunoko) is enjoyed on happy and auspicious
occasions in Japan. In particular. II finds ilS way Into the many
special foods that are served over the New Year holidays. This IS
because the great number of eggs that form the roe augurs well for
the birth of many children. Due to the dwindling catch of herring in
recent years. the price of thiS delicacy has become prohibitIVely high.
so much so that it has come to be called "yellow diamonds" in
Japan. If you should spy some of these pale yellow eggs at the
market and wish to serve them. look for eggs that are round and
uniform in size. Small immature eggs and those that appear whitish
In color are not nearly as tasty.
Before being eaten. herring roe should be desalted in water for
at least two hours. changing the water from time to time. Pnming
the water with a little salt will speed the process,
An interesting and pretty variation of herring roe IS called ko-
mochi kombu. This is kelp on which herring have spawned their eggs.
The pale yellow eggs that coat the dark green leaf of kombu is a
delicacy popular with gourmets of Japanese cuisine. A short piece
topping a finger of sushi nce is delicious. Like the roe that is taken
directly from the fish, it must be desalted before eating.
The salted eggs of the salmon (ikura). their ovanan membranes
removed and unraveled. are deliCIOUS eaten as finger sushI.
37
It is said the Russians were the first to savor salmon roe. Con-
noisseurs of sturgeon roe. or caviar. it must have occured to them
that the roe of the salmon might be just as delectable. The Japanese
term for the roe of the salmon is derived from the Russian word itf"
which means fish roe. Should the ovarian membrane remain intact.
salmon roe IS called $uzuko.
Fresh salmon roe can be distinguished by its reddish color, luster.
and smoothness. If it is left standing for any length of time, the eggs
will turn whitish in color and the covering will wrinkle. It wilt regain
its original shape and color if soaked in sake for a short period of
time.
Flat Shell (Tairagai)
Flat shell IS triangular in shape. Its shell ranges from dark green to
brown in color. As with scallops. only the adductor is eaten. Flat
shells are packed and sold either whole and unshelled. or shelled.
To Prepare
Use a long-bladed knife. Insert the blade between the shell and
the meat and sever the adductor. Repeat the operation on the other
side of the meat and then remove the meat. As the adductor is
quite large compared to the other parts. gnp it whIle you remove the
entraIls that surround it. Remove the hard parts attached to the
adductor. Peel off the thlO membrane that covers the adductor.
Wash the adductor clean 10 salted water. If you buy shelled flat shell.
all you need do is peel off the adductor's membrane.
Flounder (Hirame)
One Side of a flounder is light brown and speckled with
milky white or beige spots and the other IS white. The distinctive
placement of the eyes on the brown side of the fish makes It easy
to SPOI flounder at the fish market.
Flounder caught in the autumn is flavorfUl. but the best tasting
fish are those caught in the wInter. In Japan. the price of flounder
fluctuates greatly. depending on where it IS caught and how fresh
it IS.
Gizzard Shad (Kohada)
From early in Japan's history it has always been a common
practice to change one's name as one progresses in one's profession.
2
,
4

"
32
Fish lind shellfish: ,. sell bass. 2. macKerel. 3. sweetlish. 4. horse mscKerel. 5. sea brellm.
6. conger eel. 7. Kuruma shrimp. 8. squid. 9. INK shell. 10. scallop. 11. lIba/one. 12. salmon
roe. 13. hetring roe. 14. sell urchin.
33

2
8 ==-_-3_UlftIiI..l
Horse Clam (Mirugai)
A member of the found dam family. horse clam lives in a big
shell from between which its long, chimneylike. muscular siphon
reaches out of the ocean floor. It is the thick and crunchy siphon
that is eaten as finger sushi. Other parts of the clam can also be
eaten but their taste pales before that of the siphon. If the siphon
meat of a horse clam is very firm and hard. you can be sure that it's
fresh.
To Prepare
After filleting gizzard shad according to the three-part method,
salt both sides of the fillets (about 1 tablespoon of salt to 4 fish) and
allow to sit for 60-90 minutes. Wash off the salt. pat dry. and soak
the fillets In a generous amount of vinegar for 5-10 minutes. Make
2-3 shallow slashes in the skin and use as desired.
Like the successful samurai, artist or craftsman whose name has
changed several times. so the name of the gizzard shad. or kohada,
changes during its lifetime. In fact. irs not uncommon to hear
kohada referred to as "success fish" in Japan. In addition to being
called kohada. this fish, when it is at its best for sushi. is sometimes
called nakazumi or shinko, and at maturity, konoshiro.
The spawning season of this fish is from the middle of March
through June; during this time. its taste is at its worst. Autumn
gizzard shad lacks fat and has a plain and simple taste that is
preferred by some sushi devotees. From the end of December
through February gizzard shad is most abundant. By then it has
become rich in fat and its flavor has reached a second peak.
,.
15
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5
13 12
11
10
...
.. .. .. .
........ : ..
..............
..
..
..
: :::::: .....
, , ..........
':::::::,
............
., ........ \I

...
...:g.
-
To Prepare
Pry open the shell with the heel of a knife. Pull out the meat and
remove the entrails. Separate the siphon from the other parts. Wash
the siphon in salted water to remove any sand. Pass the siphon through
boiling water, allowing it to remain submerged for about 5 seconds_
Skin the blackish surface and mouth of the siphon. (If the skin IS
hard to peel. it means the clam is all the fresher.) Insert a knife into
the center part of the siphon. Cut it and spread it flat. Wash it a
second time in salted water. Cut off the hard tip of the siphon. Now
irs ready to be eaten. If you pass the skinned siphon meat a few
times through boiling water it will turn red.
Utensils: 1. rice paddle. 2. fan. 3. mixing lUb. 4. grinding" bowl and pestle. 5. pressing box.
6. kit for forming finger sushi In bulk. 7. omelet pan. 8. cooking chopsticks. 9. grater.
lV. cotton cloth 11. bamboo rolling mat 12. standard kitchen knife. 13-14. Japanese
all-purpose knives. IS. Japanese fish knife. 16. Japanese vegerable knife, 17. culting board.
35
36
Mackerel (Saba)
Mackerel. a popular relative of tuna and bonito. is found in abun-
dance in the waters around Japan. It is comparatively inexpen-
sive and finds its way into many Japanese dishes. There are two
species of mackerel. rna saba and goma saba. Autumn is the best
season for rna saba and summer for goma saba; it is then that the
meat becomes fatty and tasty. One drawback with either species of
mackerel is that the fish easily loses its freshness. Mackerel meat that
is less than fresh can cause one to have a nettle rash. Therefore. it is
Important that mackerel be prepared quickly. either by cooking or
salting after removing the head and internal organs. After salting, the
flesh. made taut with vinegar. has an exceptionally fine taste and
texture.
Mantis Shrimp (Shako)
Related to the shrimp and crab. the mantis shrimp has a small head
and chest and a flat back. Mantis shrimps average in length from
10 cm to 15 cm and are in season from May to June. When alive. thH
meat has a light grayish brown color. but once it is boiled. it changes
to purplish red.
To Prepare
Mantis shrimps should be bought olive and boiled in salted water
soon after purchasing. After boiling. the shell can be removed with
scissors 00 not allow too much time to pass before eating boiled
mantis shrimp. because once they are cooked it is very difficult to
tell when the meat begins to spoil.
Octopus (Taka)
In Japan. octopus is an ingredient in several sushi dishes. Because
the meat of the octopus is firm, it is very difficult to distinguish
fresh from not-so-fresh meat. Therefore. if you plan to prepare
octopus from scratch. take great care that you start with fresh
octopus. Old octopus spoils very quickly and can become extremely
tOXIC.
Fresh octopus can be distinguished by Its pale gray color.
frecklelike spots. and bouncy tentacles. When buying precooked
octopus. see that the skin is not broken. that the ends of the
tentacles are not blackish in color. and that the skin does not rupture
when it IS pulled. Avoid octopus that IS a vivid red; it most probablv
has been artificially colored
To Prepare
Remove the entrails located in the head. Cut out the eyes and
beak. Rub the entire octopus with salt. Vigorously work the meat.
from head to tentacle tips. with the salt. as if doing your laundry by
hand Be sure to clean out the suckers. Rinse the meat thoroughly
with fresh water to remove all the salt and sliminess. Boil a generous
amount of salted water. Gripping the head. slowly lower the octopus.
tentacles first. into the boiling water. The length of time it takes to
cook the octopus varies according to its size. Once the tentacles
feel resilient you can assume that it is done. Remove it from the
water and plunge it into cold water to cool. Slice the tentacles to
the desired thickness.
Round Clam (Aovagi or Bakagai)
The round clam is a bivalve shellfish with a very fragile shell. It
is usually sold out of its shell. the meat being separated from the
adductor. The meat is eaten raw if it is very fresh. that is. if it
shrinks at the touch of a finger. After a quick wash in salted water it
can be used just as it is for topping finger sushi. If it is only moder-
ately fresh. the meat should be blanched for a few seconds and then
immediately cooled in cold water before eating. Round clam is at
its best in winter and spring. The muscle. called kobashira. is sold
separately from the meat and is considered to be one of the best
toppings for finger sushi. Cut into small pieces and served on top of
vinegared rice that has had nori wrapped around the sides (page 66).
the kobashira is soft in texture. with a light taste.
To Prepare
Squeeze the meat to push out the internal organs. Give the meat
a good shake in cold water to rinse off any sand. Blanch for a few
seconds. then cool in cold water and drain. Cut away the dark.
jagged part at the edge and the mucous membrane. Cut down one
side and open the meat halves flat. so that it will be easier to handle
when making finger sushI. Remove any portion of the internal
organs that should remain.
Scallop (Hotategai)
The adductor of the scallop makes very tasty finger sushi. Scal-
lops can be bought alive in their shells or already shelled. In the latter
case. make sure the meat is very firm as this assures you of its
freshness.
37
;.------------,
Sea Bream (Tai)
More than a hundred species of sea bream have been counted in
the world. Some of the species which are savored in Japan are
porgy (ma-dai), crimson sea bream (chi-dai), black porgy (kuro-dai),
parrot fish (ishi-dai), and deep-sea porgy (renko-dai). Many are red
in color. Sea bream retains its taste for a considerable length of time.
Such is the Japanese respect for this fish that there is the saying
kusauemo tai which means approximately the same as the Western
expression "an old eagle is better than a young crow." Whole sea
bream that has been tied with string into a curve, salted. and broiled
is often the main course of a celebration dinner or is presented as a
gift to celebrate.a wedding or other congratulatory occasion. This is
because the sound fai forms part of the word omedetai which means
joyous or auspicious.
Besides being a delicious sushi ingredient. sea bream is also tasty
when sauteed Western style in butter.
Sea Urchin (Uni)
The meat and eggs of the sea urchin is a sushi lover's delight.
In its natural state. the sea urchin is enclosed in a thin brittle shell
that is slightly flat and globular in shape and covered with sharp,
movable spines that remind one of the prickly shell that encases a
chestnut. Sold live. or shelled and steamed and packed in a shallow
box. it is one of the tastiest ingredients for finger sushi. Fresh sea
urchin can be distinguished by its vivid reddish orange color and
smell. If you should have to choose from among many pieces. avoid
those whose shape is not firm and those that have a watery look.
The canned or bottled type of sea urchin. while delicious when
eaten with other foods. is a poor second in taste when compared to
fresh sea urchin.
The roe of the sea urchin is most often found at the market in a
bottled form called neri un/. This also makes excellent sushi. A
bottle of sea urchin paste will keep for a considerable length of time
stored in the refrigerator.
where the fish is caught. Summer sea bass is the most tasty; winter
sea bass. less so. The white meat of this fish is prized for its dis-
tinctive. subtle taste and is considered a delicacy.
Fresh sea bass is usually reserved for sushi or sashimi. Sea bass
can also be broiled with salt or included in soup. When preparing
small sea bass take care to preserve their particularly beautiful
shape and color.
\
\
2
To Prepare
Place the scallop on a cutting board with the flalter side down
and hinge on the far side. Insert a knife blade between the shell
halves and pry them apart. Insert the blade between the lower shell
and meat. being careful not to scar the meat and cut the meat away
from the shell (1). Remove one half of the shell. Repeat this opera-
tion on the other side of the meat (2). Extract the meat with your hand.
Cut open the black section where the internal organs are located
and remove the entrails with your fingers (3). Wash the whitish
adductor clean in water and drain. Slice to desired thickness.
Sea Bass (Suzuki)
Like gizzard shad. the name of sea bass changes as the fish
matures, and so it. too. is called "success fish."' When less than 25 em
in length sea bass is called seigo: when about 40 cm long it is called
fukko: and only when it is fully grown and over 60 cm in length is
it called suzuki. These sizes and names may differ according to
r9> l
38
39
40
Shrimp (fbi)
Of all the many species of shrimp available around the world. the
species called kuruma ebi in Japan has a taste and color particularly
sUited to eating as finger sushi. But. like all the very best ingredients.
it is very expensive. The way to eat this shrimp is to dress and serve
it alive. that is. stdl quivering with life_ Should you have the oppor-
tunity to taste this delight you will understand why it is given the
name odori, or dance.
Almost any live shrimp can be served in the odori fashion. but it
IS much more common to bod shrimp before dreSSing and serving
them. A species of shrimp called sa/mak; ebi, which is about 5-6 em
long (minus the head), I!' a common sight al a sushi shop.
To Prepare
Wash the shrimps thoroughly. (If this is not done well. the color of
the meat will turn.) Remove the back gut by inserting a toothpick
between the JOints in the shell (see illustration below). Thread with
a skewer. on the leg Side, through the head and down the tall.
This will keep the shrimps from curling when they are boiled. BOil a
generous amount of salted water. Drop in the skewered shrimps.
Once the shrimps float, take them out and drop them into Ice water.
This WIll heIghten their rosy color and make it easier to remove the
skewers. It also helps to keep the shape of the shrimp. Drain.
Remove the skewers. tWIsting as you pull. Shell and open the
shrimps Irom the leg Side. Remove the legs. Make a shallow inciSion
along the leg Side and flatten the shrimps. Devein the meat and press
It flat. Refrigerate until ready to use.
Squid (tka)
In the past only cooked squid was eaten as sushi or sashimi, but
today's modern fishing techniques and heezing methods make it
possible to enjoy the taste of raw squid.
To Prepare
Firmly grasp the tail with your left hand and grasp the tentacles at
their base with your right hand and pull. The body will come apart
and the tentacles and entrails will slip out of the body case (1).
Carefully pull off the tail fins (2). Sprinkle salt on your hands to
insure a good grip and carefully pull off the outer skin (3). Rinse off
the case with water and dry.
2
Tuna (Maguro)
There are several species of tuna. a large member of the mackerel
family, that are found in the warm waters of the Atlantic and Pacific
Oceans. In Japan. the best tasting species is called kuro maguro or
hon maguro. It is caught from summer to winter. the period when
41
42
the taste of its meat is at its best. Almost any part of the fish can be
eaten raw. Other varieties are: bigeye tuna (mebachi maguro).
albacore (bmnaga maguro), and yellowfin tuna (klhada maguro).
Blgeye and yellowfm tuna are eaten as sushi. Albacore consists
almost entirely of very lean meat and. therefore. is not suitable for
sushI. Instead. it IS canned in oil.
The deep red lean meat. or akami, of the fish has only a small
amount of lipid but the marbled underside of the tuna contams about
25% lipid and In some cases up to 40%. The marbled meat of the tuna
IS the tastiest-and the most expensive. There are three grades of
fatty tuna meat: fatty (loro). medium fatty (chu lora), and very
fatty (otoro). Each IS distingUished by its pink color. very fatty meat
bemg the whitest pink. and comes from a different part of the
fish.
Yellowtail (Hamachi or Bufi)
Like the gizzard shad and sea bass, the yellowtail also changes its
name during Its lifetime and IS known as "success fish" in Japan.
When It IS young It IS called hamachi. and when mature. bud. What
IS more. yellowtail goes by still other names depending on where it
is caught. A relative of the horse mackerel family. yellowtail is a
temperate-zone fish found In Japan's neighbOring waters. Winter IS
the best season for mature yellowtaIl. The winter yellowtail eats
great amounts of food to prepare for spawnmg in the spring. Once it
fanens. ItS flesh becoming ally. it has an exceptionally good taste.
Salted yellowtail IS very popular in western Japan.
Utensils
The utenSils you'll need to make sushi are probably already in your
kitchen drawers and cabinets. Substitutes for those that are not
handy can easily be devised. When making substitutes. two rules of
thumb should be kept in mind. One. avoid metal utensils whenever
possible. Vinegar is a major ingredient in all sushi dishes and should
you prepare sushi with metal utensils the taste of the finished
product will be adversely affected. Two. utensils of wood and
bamboo should be new. Utensils made of these two materials tend
to absorb odors and flavors from foods with which they come into
contact. These odors and flavors can easily be transferred to raw
fish, sushi rice. and fresh vegetables. making for unexpected and
strange tastes.
Bamboo Rolling Mat (Makisu or Sudare)
A small mat made of extremely narrow strips of bamboo is used
for rolling sheets of nori around rice and other ingredients to make
rolled sushi. This mat comes in three sizes: large (the size of one
whole sheet of nori) for making large rolls, and small (the size of
half a sheet of nori) for making small rolls; the third. called an ani
sudare, is made of thicker strips of bamboo and is used for shaping
a rolled omelet. It is not necessary to purchase one of each of these
mats. The large mat is the most versatile and can be used for the
varieties of rotled sushi included in this book. Some of these recipes
call for two mats, so it is recommended that you have two large mats
on hand. A clean blind of bamboo StripS, cut and tied to a manage-
able size. will suffice if precut rolling mats are not available in
your area.
Chopsticks (Hashi)
Chopsticks come in various lengths. each according to how they
are utilized. They can be made of unflnlshed or finished wood.
lacquer, bamboo, or plastic. When collectmg together the utensils
for making sushi. be sure to acquire a smgle pair of long. wooden.
cooking chopsticks called sa/bashi. They are about 25-30 em m
length. often feature a painted area at the handling end. and have a
short string connecting the two ends. The string IS for hanging the
chopsticks and can be removed If you fmd It hampering when
you use them.
Among the types of chopstiCkS used for eatmg (ohashi. but
otemOlO in sushi jargon) are a variety called waf/bashl. These are
made of a single slat of unfimshed wood which IS nearly split
lengthwise in two. Just before eating. wanbashI are spread apart untIl
they snap into two chopsticks. They are the easiest of all chopstIcks
to use for eating. Despite their pleasing appearance. plastic or
lacquer chopsticks present problems for the novIce. since their
slippery surfaces make it difficult to grasp foods.
Cotton Cloth (Fukin)
A clean unbleached cotton cloth is used to prepare several
varieties of sushi. Neither a dishcloth nor a table wiper can sub-
stitute for this cloth. If the cloth is new, wash it clean of starch and
dry before use. It should not be too large: a square measuring 30 cm
on each side is the easiest to handle. Since this cloth comes in
direct contact with food. it should be kept clean and free of foreign
matter at all times.
43
44
Cutting Board (Manaita)
A cutting board is essential for a variety of tasks. It is used when
filleting. deboning. and slicing fish; as a cutting surface when
preparing vegetables; and as a flat surface upon which nearly every
type of sushi is made. A cutting board made of plastic or wood
and about 24 x 40 cm in size will meet most if not all of your
needs.
Because wood absorbs odors and flavors. a separate cutting
board. Identlfled With some kind of mark. should be set aside for
usage With fish and shellfish. If you have a cutting board with both
sides finished for cutting. reserve one side for using with fish.
Drainer (Zaru)
Great amounts of water are used when prepanng Japanese food.
so much so that Japanese cooking is sometimes referred to as
"water cooking," Methods for draining off the water that IS used to
wash foods are many. The handiest method utilizes the bamboo
draining basket called a zaru. Like so many other Japanese cooking
utenSils. these come In a vanety of shapes and sizes. each SUited to a
particular task.
PlastiC and metal drall1ers are also available but the bamboo
drall1er IS most WIdely used because it is highly resistent to the
effects of water. salt. and chemicals. and because it is easy to handle
once It IS soaked In water. Two disadvantages are that it tends to
become moldy If not dned completely and aired after use and that
It discolors with age. A plastiC drainer may be colorful and dry
qUickly. but It IS susceptible to heat damage and water easily clogs
liS hates. A wire drainer IS very effective. but it might react with salt
or other Ingredients and Impart a metallic taste to loads. An enamel-
ware colander can be used to good effect for draining foods If you
do not have a bamboo drainer.
Fan (Uchiwa)
A fan IS necessary to cool hot nce while mixing it with vinegar
dressing to make sushi rice. In Japan. an uchiwa. a round paper
fan used to cool oneself on a hot summer day. is often used for
thiS task. If a round paper fan is unavailable. an electric fan or a
sheet of cardboard or plastic can be used in its place.
Grater (Oroshi-gane)
Any grater that is flat and has closely packed cutting teeth.
whether It be made of copper. plastiC. aluminum. stainless steel.
ceramic. or whatever. can be used for the preparation of sushi.
When purchasing a new grater be sure to select one that has very
sharp teeth and is easy to handle. When uSing such a grater.
especially when grating ginger root and wasabt. move your hand in
a circular motion.
Grinding Bowl and Pestle (Suribachi and Surikogi)
A grinding bowl and pestle are used to pulvenze fish and other
mgredients_ In Japan. an earthenware bowl scored on the inside
surface and called a suribachi IS used. A wooden pestle. or surikogf.
IS used with this bowl. Together they form a handy utensil useful in
almost any type of cooking. Japanese or otherwise.
In the past. nearly all sunbachi were made of earthenware. but at
present one can also find plastiC ones. Sunbachi are available in
many sizes. but one about 20 cm In diameter is sufficient for almost
any grinding. A blender can be used to grind food when a suribachl
and surikogl are unavailable.
Knives (Hacha)
Professional sushi chefs use a Wide variety of knl'ves. each SUited
to a particular purpose. For cookmg at home. two or three types of
knives are suffiCient.
There are five knives used for making susht In Japan. An all-
purpose knife called a banno-bocho has become very popular among
cooking enthUSiasts because It can be used In many different ways.
A large deaver called a deba-bocho IS used for chOPPing fish. Its
weight makes it an excellent knife for lOPPing off the heads of fish or
for cutting through bones. In lact. It is the thickest and heaViest of
all Japanese kitchen knives. The nakiri-bocho IS specially deSigned
for cutting vegetables. Since olden days. {his korfe. With ItS Wide.
square lip. has been the most Widely used In the home. The very
thin. long-bladed sashimi-bocho is used for sliclOg boned fIsh fillets_
It IS the slimmest. the longest. and the sharpest of all kitchen knives
Most knives are used with a downward. push109 stroke. but when
using a sashimi-bocho a pull 109 motion is preferred. If a soft and
tender food such as fresh fish IS sliced With a pushing motion. the
meat is apt to fall apart. resulting in ragged cuts. The knife called a
sushikiri-bocho is deSigned specially for sushi-making. The cutting
edge of this knife is honed on both sides of the blade. It is used by
professional sushi chefs and is hardly ever found In the home.
A knife used for making sushi must be kept sharp; a dull knife
-results in ragged cuts that detract not only from the appearance
45
'"
46
of the food but from Its taste as well. Knives should be washed and
thoroughly dried after each use.
When slicing sushi, the knife must be moist. A wet cloth neatly
folded and placed beside your cutting board is an easy way to keep
the blade mOistened. It IS also important to make certain that no
foreIgn smell remains on the blade when slicing sushi. For example.
do not use a knife that has just been used for cutting onions. This
is true for almost any type of cooking. but it is particularly so when
preparing sushi.
Mixing Tub (Hang;,;)
In Japan. a large. flat-bottomed. wooden mixing tub. called a
hangm. 1$ used for mlxmg cooked rice with the vinegar dressing. The
wood serves to absorb excess moisture from the cooked f1ce. and the
large mixing surface allows the hot rice to cool rapidly. A large
mixing tub IS better than a small one since. when making scattered
sushi (page 83). for example. not only dressing and f1ce but other
ingredients are mixed together In the tub. For making enough rice to
serve three or lour. a tub about 50 cm In diameter IS required. A
large. shallow tub (or bowl) that IS resistant to the effects of aCid and
heal can be substituted for a hanglrl. The shallower the tub the better.
because rice that IS cooled qUickly and Without too much stlrrlng IS
much fluffier and better tasting.
Thoroughly Wipe the Inside ollhe tub with a clean cloth soaked 10
vinegared water before uSing. Unless the inSide of the tub IS
mOistened. nce Will stIck to ItS surlace. making mixing difficult.
Aher use. wash and dry the tub thoroughly_
Omelet Pan (Tamago-vak; Nabe)
A square-shaped frying pan about 3 cm deep. called a lamago-
yakl nabe. IS used exclUSIvely for making several types of omelets. A
thick Iron pan that retains heat well makes the best omelet. but too
heavy a pan IS awkward to handle. so most cooks seem to prefer a
thIck pan made of aluminum. Although the shape of the omelet Will
differ. a conventIOnal frying pan about 25-26 cm In diameter can be
used In its place. This size or larger is preferred because the omelet
that results will be large enough to be cuI into a number of shapes.
Pressing Box (Oshibako)
A wooden pressing bix. called an ashi-bako. is indispensible for
making box sushi. II consists of three parts-a pressing lid. a
pressing frame. and a bottom. It is made of comparatively thick wood
because it must Withstand considerable pressure. Pressing boxes
come in various sizes. but one with an Inlerior 8 x 16 x 4 cm in
size is sufficient in most cases. An empty cookie tin lined with
waxed paper. or a layer-cake pan. can be used in place of a pressing
box.
Rice Paddle (Kijakushi or Shamoli)
Some kind of flat and broad utensil is necessary to fluff. mix. and
serve sushi nce. In Japan. a flat wooden paddle called a kfjakushl or
shamoji IS commonly used. Shaped like a large. flattened spoon. thiS
utenSil is particularly suited for handling nce. While wood and
bamboo paddles are the most common. lacquer as well as plastiC
ones are also found in kitchen utenSil shops. A wooden paddle
absorbs flavors easily. so It is best to set one aSide especially for
making sushi and to aVOid those that have been used for frying or
other types of cooking. tf a proper Japanese rice paddle IS not
available in your area. a large wooden spoon Will serve equally well.
Before uSing a rice paddle to scoop up hot rice or mix sushi nce,
be sure to thoroughly mOisten It. Otherwise. the nce Will stIck to the
paddle.
Scaler (Uroko Tad)
A knife IS suffiCient to remove the scales from mosl fish, but for other
fish such as sea bream and sea bass whose scales are more difficult
to remove, a scaler is much more efhclent.
Any standard fish scaler can be used for thiS task. It is used much
like a knife is used for scaling. Simply draw It over the body of the
fish. from tail to head. against the grain of the scales.
Skewers (Kush;)
Skewers are used when cooking certain fish. particularly shrimp
and squid. They help to retain or Improve the Original shape of the
fish or. in the case of shrimp and squid. to keep It from curling.
For cooking. either bamboo or metal skewers are used. These
come in various shapes and lengths and are selected according to
the fish that is to be skewered.
When pulling out the skewer. twist it as you pull. This frees the
skewer from the meat and makes it easier to remove.
47
48
Sushi Rice
Nothing is more important to the sushi than the of
sushi rice. Although it's possible to make sushI without fish. It s
impossible to even imagine sushi without nce. this. it is
wonder that sushi shops spend such a great amount 01 time perfectmg
Its taste and texture. The same amount of care is necessary when
makmg sushi nce at home. Selecting the highest quality ingredients
IS the best way to start. To do this well. refer to the recommenda-
tions under Ingredients and Basic Preparations.
Once you've bought some good nce. the next problem is to cook
It to perlectlon. II's not as difficult as you would expect. but I' IS an
exacting process that once mastered will almost guarantee perfect
rice. Firs\. a proper pot.
Cooking Pot A pot for cooking rice should have a snugly. .
fitting lid and feature a bottom and walls that will evenly distribute
heat. The Size of the pot depends on how much rice you plan to
make. Generally speaking. the more you cook the better the chances
of ending up with deliCIOUS nce. Rice swells as It cooks. increasing
anywhere from two and a half to three times In volume. A _pot that
will contain about 3-5 cups of cooked rice should be sufficient.
If you own an automatic Japanese rice cooker, thiS. makes. everything
easier. If you plan on dOing a lot of Japanese cooking. a nce cooker
IS worth every cent as an investment. It will save you much time and
many headaches.
Water The amount of water necessary to cook rice depends on
the kind of rice you are using. Too little will result in rice that is dry
and hard in the center; too much will produce rice soup. As a rule of
thumb. for cooking Japanese strains of rice grown in California
about 20% more water than flce should give you good results. That
means about 1 1/5 cups of water to 1 cup of dry rice. When cooking
nce that was grown In Japan. 1 cup of komal (rice over a year old)
IS cooked with 1 cup or 1 cup plus about 1 112-2 tablespoons of
waler. and 1 cup of shimmai (newly harvesled rice) is cooked with 1
cup or 1 cup minUS about 1 112-2 tablespoons of water.
Rice One hour before you start cooking. wash the rice thoroughly
tn a flat-bottomed vessel. rubbing the wet grains against the boltom
and SIdes. This will remove any bran or polishing compound that
remains. Drain off the water and add fresh water. Repeat this step
until the water becomes clear. Drain the rice. add water. and allow it
to sit. No matter how much of a hurry you are in. wash the rice and
soak it in water for at least 30 minutes before cooking.
Combine the rice and the measured amount of water in a
saucepan and cover. Place the pan over moderately high heat. As
soon as the water bOils. reduce the heat and cook for about 10
minutes. Turn off the heat and allow the rice to steam undisturbed
for at least 10 minutes. 00 not remove the lid during the cooking
process. The bnefest peek will let out the steam and ruin the rice_
A tasty variation of Ihls basic reCipe IS to cook the rice With
kombu and sake or mlnn. When first heating the rice and water to
cook three cups of dry flce. add a 6-7-cm-square piece of kombu
(wiped beforehand wllh a damp cloth). Just as the water beginS to
boil remove the kombu and add one tablespoon of sake or mlrln
for each cup of uncooked nce.
Vinegar Dressing While your rice IS cooking or. better yet. before
you put It on the stove. prepare the vinegar dreSSing for the flce, For
5 cups of dry rice combine In a bowl. stirring until clear:
7-8 tablespoons rice vinegar
1 tablespoon sail
4-5 tablespoons sugar (decrease by one-half If you are gOing to
make finger sushi With the rice)
ThIS IS a good baSIC recrpe_ It will give you an excellent start on
deVISing a recipe with different proportlons that SUitS you own taste.
The best way to Slart dOing this IS to adjust the amount of sugar. A
dressing with too much sugar WIll not go well with finger sushi or
other varieties of sushi that Include raw fish. But box sushi. pressed
sushI. and the like, which are eaten after they have been left stand-
Ing for a considerable length of time. are made with a sweeter
dreSSing. This is because the sugar In a sweeter dressing Will help to
keep the nee from becoming dry and flaky Too much sugar,
however. detracts from the refreshing taste of any sushi dish.
Around Tokyo. sugar IS used sparingly because mosl people who
49
50
live there eat finger sushi and prefer a plainer tasting sushi rice that
does not overpower the delicate. natural flavors of the fish and other
ingredients used in this type of sushi.
Instant vinegar dressing is available at some stores that stock
Japanese foods.
Mixing Wet a large mIxing tub with water. Wipe off any excess.
Wet the tub a ~ e c o n d tIme wIth vinegared water (1 cup of water
wIth 2-3 tablespoons vinegar). Wipe off any excess. Heap the
cooked nce in the center of the tub (1). Allow the nce to coolIn the
tub for about 10 minutes. Pour the vinegar dressing over the peak of
lhe mound of rice (2). With a nce paddle or large wooden spoon, cut
through the mound of nce to mix the dressing and rice evenly (3).
As you mix. fan the rice to cool it (4). An extra hand wIll make this
operatIon easier. Fanning the rice will give it a pearly luster. Brush off
any rice that sticks to the side of the tub with a cloth dampened with
vinegared water (5). Once the rice has cooled to body temperature
It is ready to use.
2
Varieties of finger sushi (p. 63): tolled orne/er wrapped with a suiI' of nori. tuna. squid.
shrimp. giZZArd shad. sea urchin andlemon. sea bass. ark shell. and fT/8nfis shrimp. Pickled
ginger slices (p. 12).
51
Top left: rolled sushi with tuna (po 70). Top right: rolled sushi wirh conger eel and cucumber
(po 71). Center: inside-out thick rof/ed sushi (po 74). thick rolled sushi (po 68). pickled ginger
slices (po 12). Boltom: rolled sushi with mountain yam andtakuan (po 71).
52
Wisteria-shaped rolled sushi (po 72). Pomegranate-shaped sushi (po 81). Rolled sushi in comma
shapes (po 77), with pickled ginger stalks (po 12).
53
Plum-blossom-shaped rolfed sushi (p. 76). Coin-P8rtern rolled sushi (p. 80). with red-dyed gingel
slices (p. 12). Four seas rolfed sushi (p. 79).
54
Top: box sushi made wilh shrimp (p. 89). box sushi made with eel (p. 92). Bottom: pressed sushi
made with see bream (p. 96). with pickled ginger slices (p. 12).
55
Kansai+style scattered sushi (p. 84). K8nto+sryle scattered sushi (p. 83). Egg drop soup (p. 114).
56
Five-color scattered sushi (p. 85). Soup with bean curd and trefoil. Crab scattered sushi (p. 87).
57
Sushi rice and fish wrapped with a bamboo leaf (p. 105). Sushi rice topped with mackerel
(p. 92). Steamed scattered sushi (p. 87). with nori Strips.
58
Stuffed sweetfish sushi (p. 99). with pickled ginger stalks (p. 12). Sushi rice lOpped with
StripS of fish. omelet and vegetables (p. 95).
59
Top. clockwise from top: pine-cone-textured squid sluffed wilh sushi rice (p. 100). sushi rice in
folded omelet (p. 103). sushi rice in gelhered omelel (p. 102). stuffed squid sushi (p. 99).
Bottom lell: devi/'s-tongue jeffy stuffed with sushi rice (p. lOS). with pickled ginger stelks (p. 12).
Bottom right: pouches of deep-fried /){len curd stuffed with sushi rice (p. 104).
fngredients for making hend-roffed sushi (p. 98): sushi rice. nori. pitied umeboshi. coltsfoot. rolled
omefer. conger eel, gizzard shad. mentis shrimp, shiso, tuns. ses bresm, cucumber, squid, ginger
rOOI strips, shrimp, and wasabi.
67
Top: v/Jrielies of linger sushi (p. 63). pickled ginger slices (p. (2). Bottom: sC8/w8d sushi and
rolled sushi 8"8ngea 8nd decor8ted to resemb'e 8 cake (p. 107).
62
Finger Sushi
In Japan. the most popular type of sushi is finger sushi. or nigiri
zushi. A finger of sushi rice topped with a slice of fresh fish and a bIt
of wasabi is the easiest type of sushi to make. But. as with all
things simple. special attention must be paid nOI only to the quality
of the ingredients but also to theIr proportIons and handling as well.
Finger sushi that seems to dIssolve the moment It'S put into your
mouth is considered the best. To arrive at such finger sushi involves
a careful balancing of several factors. The sushi nce must not
be too sweet. the fish must be at Its freshest (Ideally, the final cuts
should be made just before assembling). the cuts must be neither too
thin nor too thick. and the wasabi should be freshly grated. These
are things that a professional sushi chef workmg In a sushI shop
considers in making finger sushi. When makmg finger sushI at home.
keep in mind the followmg:
Aice Sushi nce prepared with a dressing a lillie less sweet Ihan
the recipe given earlier will be an excellent starl on delicIous finger
sushi. Be careful that the lice IS not too hot. otherwise It will Impart
an unpleasant warmth to the fish; If Irs too cold. the grains will not
adhere to one anolher. The temperature of the vlnegared rice should
match your body temperature. When forming a finger of rice. the
tnck is to make the outside JUSt firm enough to be picked up with
chopsticks or fingers without crumbling. yet loose enough so that It
falls apart when put into the mouth.
Topping Nearly all species of fish and shellfish can top finger
sushi. In an earlier chapter. brief descriptions and filleting instruc
tions for some of the species of fish and shellfish that are served
as finger sushi in Japan were given. In other parts of the world other
species will be available. Saltwater fish are generally less prone than
freshwater fish to spoil and to be carrying parasites. While it's best
to cut fish just at the moment a finger of rice is ready to receive its
topping. time does not allow one to do so when making finger sushi
63
....


. . .....
" , ' . " '
. " . ' ..-\;
, ,
2
sushi rice falls as you are making finger sushi, It IS important to work
fast. The only way to do that is to have everything ready and within
easy reach before starting. Dip both hands into vinegared water
making sure that every part that will come into contact with the rice
and fish is thoroughly moistened (1). Form a portion of rice into a
long, ovoid "finger" with your right hand against the side of the
mixing tub. Pick up one piece of topping. in this case a piece of
tuna. with the forefinger and thumb of your left hand. Handle it
lightly to prevent the transfer of body heat to the fish (2). While
holding the finger of rice with your last three fingers. spread wasabi
on the inside surface of the fish with your right forefinger (3) Press
the sushi rice against the fish with the right forefinger and middle
finger. Press the rice with your left thumb from the side (4) Transfer
Wasabi Wasabi that is freshly grated is the tastiest. If fresh is not
available. powdered wasabi mixed with water or wasabi that comes
in a tube can be used to give that special tang to a serving of finger
sushi.
at home. Therefore. cui and neatly stack each type of fish you plan
to use just prior to making finger sushi.
To slice fish fillets for topping finger sushi. first place the fillet
horizontally on a cutting board so that the grain of the meat runs left
and right. Place the tips of your left-hand fingers on the left end of
the fillet. Measure off about 1 1/2 cm from the left end. With a long.
sharp knife (a professional would use a sashimi-bocho) slice
diagonally downward (1) and then draw the blade towards you to
complete the cut (2). Pick up the slice of fillet and place it to the
side. Continue slicing until you have enough to meet your needs.
Vinegared Water To facilitate shaping the rice and handling
the topping for finger sushi. prepare ahead a [Link] containing 1 cup
of water acidulated with 2-3 tablespoons of vinegar. You'lI be
drenching your hands in this water so be sure to use a bowl that
does not tip easily,
3 4
Assembly The following is the basic method for making finger
sushi used by professional sushi chefs. It is simple. deceptively
simple. If you should find some of the operations difficult. do not
hesitate to improvise your own method. The aim of this or any other
method is to make appetizing finger sushi that will delight you,
your family, and your guests.
Gather all your ingredients together. Since the temperature of
64
65
4
2
r- ~
{ - - - - - - - ~ - ~ ~
- /
3
5
\
~
~
the rice and fish lopping, fish side up. to your right hand (5).
Return the morsel to the left hand. flipping it over so that the rice
is on the bottom (6). Lightly squeeze the morsel with the right
thumb and forefinger into a pleasing shape (7). Give the fish lopping
one last press to set it firmly on the rice.
7
Toppings that are extremely soft. composed of many small pieces.
or diced. such as sea urchin. fish roe. or certain shellfish. present
problems should you wish to serve them in the finger-sushi style.
But these are easily surmounted by wrapping a strip of nori
around the finger of rice. The finished product is called gunkan maki.
or battleship roll. because of its resemblence to a ship of war.
Place a flattened finger of rice on a clean. flat surface (1). Encircle
the rice with a strip of nori about 3-4 cm wide (2). Press the rice
down slightly and adjust the shape of the rice and nori (3). Fill the
hollow formed by the rice and nori with topping (4). Finger sushi is
illustrated in color on pages 51 and 62.
66 67
Rolled Sushi
After finger sushi the second most popular way of making sushi is
a variation called nor; maki, or rolled sushi. To make rolled sushi.
sushi rice is first spread over a sheet of nori; fish and/or vegetables
are laid in a line across the rice; and the nori, rice. and filling are
rolled up together in a bamboo rolling mat. The long roll is then cut
into bite-size pieces and arranged on a plate. cut side up. revealing
their filling to the diner.
Many varieties of rolled sushi are filled with vegetables. Thus. it is
an excellent way 10 treat your family and friends to sushi when fresh
fish is unavailable.
Thick Rolled Sushi (Futo-maki-zushi or Maki-zushi)
mat (1). Wet your hands with vinegared water and scoop up about
a quarter of the sushi rice and spread it evenly from left to right over
the nori (2), leaving about 3-4 cm of the far edge of the nori
uncovered. Make a low ridge of rice at the far end of the area
covered with rice (3). This ridge will keep the ingredients from
shifting position. Arrange a quarter of the omelet. kampyo. shiitake.
spinach, and bean curd strips just in front of the ridge (4). Pick
up the end of the rolling mat and the nori (5). Roll everything
together in the direction of the ridge. stopping when you reach the
ridge (6). Adjust the form of the roll by squeezing it gently. Finish
rolling. making sure that the end of the sheet of nori sticks to the
roll to seal it. Allow a few minutes for the roll to set. Carefully
68
The following recipe is one of the more common variations of this
type of sushi. Almost any other filling material can be used in place
of those listed.
4 rolls
2 1/2 cups uncooked rice, prepared as for sushi rice
4 sheets nori
4 rolled omelets (page 9), cut into 1-cm-square strips
4 40-cm long strips of seasoned kampyo (page 13), cut as long as
the nori sheets are wide
4 seasoned shiitake (page 19)
1 piece seasoned freeze-dried bean curd (page 5), cut into 1-cm-
square strips
10 grams of spinach or trefoil leaves, cooked in salted water, soaked
in cold water, and squeezed dry
vinegared water (1 cup water with 2-3 tablespoons vinegar)
Place a sheet of nori, hOrizontally and front side down. on a rolling
.---
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70
remove the mat. Moisten a knife with a wet cloth (7). Cut the roll
into eight pieces (8). Thick Rolled Sushi is illustrated on page 52.
8
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Narrow Rolled Sushi (Hoso-maki-zushi)
With this variety of rolled sushi. almost any number of fillings can be
enjoyed with a minimum of ingredients. Compared with Thick Rolled
Sushi. Narrow Rolled Sushi is much smaller and easier to eat.
When making this variety of rolled sushi, it is important to use the
proper amount of rice. Too much rice results in holes in the nori. To
be on the safe side. too little rice is better than too much. As a rule
of thumb, for one roll use about 1 1/2 balls of rice the size of an egg.
The method for assembling and rolling Narrow Rolled Sushi is the
same as that for Thick Rolled Sushi except that less rice is used and
only half a sheet of nori is necessary for wrapping the roll. To cut the
sheet of nori use a pair of kitchen shears and cut on the line per-
pendicular to the fold in the sheet.
Recipes for four standard varieties of this type of sushi follow.
In addition. sea urchin, umeboshi. takuan. natto. herring roe, or cod
roe are also delicious rolled up in sushi rice and nori. Several
varieties of Narrow Rolled Sushi are illustrated on page 52.
Narrow Rolled Sushi with Tuna (Tekka Maki)
2 roUs
1 scant cup uncooked rice, prepared as for sushi rice
1 sheet nori, cut in half
2 8-cm square strips of tuna, cut as long as the nori is wide
wasabi
r
Before placing the strip of tuna in front of the ridge of rice. spread a
line of wasabi along the bottom of the ridge with your finger. For
variations. add chopped green onions, chives, or ginger root strips.
Narrow Rolled Sushi with Cucumber (Kappa Maki)
In Japanese folklore. a kappa is a water imp with a hollow in the
top of its head which must always be filted with water for the kappa
to keep its strength. Nothing delights a kappa more than a feast of
cucumbers, hence the name of this variety of rolled sushi.
2 rolls
1 scant cup uncooked rice, prepared as for sushi rice
1/2 cucumber, sliced lengthwise into long. narrow strips
wasabi
Narrow Rolled Sushi with Conger Eel (Anago Maki)
2 rolls
1 scant cup uncooked rice, prepared as for sushi rice
2 seasoned conger eel fillets (page 30)
1/2 cucumber, sliced lengthwise into long, narrow strips
Narrow Rolled Sushi with Mountain Yam
(Yamaimo Maki)
2 rolls
1 scant cup uncooked rice, prepared as for sushi rice
50 grams mountain yam, peeled and soaked in vinegared water for
about 20 minutes and cut into narrow strips
60 grams takuan, cut into long. narrow strips
bonito shavings
soy sauce
Place the yam and takuan strips on the rice and sprinkle with
bonito shavings seasoned with soy sauce.
71
Wisteria-shaped Rolled Sushi (Fuji no Hana-zushi)
The gracefully trailing blossoms of the wisteria vine. a familiar sight
in Japan during the months of May and June. are the inspiration for
this very decorative sushi presentation. As this type of sushi comes
in easy-la-eat pieces it works particularly well as an hors d'oeuvre.
It is quite simple to make and doesn't take too many ingredients.
Depending on how much you make. wisteria sushi can be a whole
meal in itself; it can also make an elegant centerpiece for a party
table.
2 sprays
a cutting board. their seams facing away from you. Moisten the blade
of a knife on a wet cloth and slice the two rolls in half at one time(3).
Place the four pieces together. Moisten the knife again and slice
all four rolls in half again (4). Line up the eight pieces. moisten
the knife blade. and slice them in half again. Lift the blade quickly so
the rice adhering to the knife blade serves to lilt the cut sides up to
reveal the alternating pink and yellow teardrop shapes (5). Arrange
the pieces In a slight curve on a large serving platter or tray. reserv-
ing one piece for the bottom of each wisteria spray. Repeat the
process with the remaining two rolls. Wisteria-shaped Rolled Sushi
is illustrated in color on page 53
1 2/3 cups uncooked rice, prepared as for sushi rice
2 sheets nori, cut in half
150 grams fresh salmon meat
1 egg
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon cooking oil
vinegared water (1 cup water with 2-3 tablespoons vinegar)
72
Pink-tinted Sushi Rice Boil the salmon in salted water and remove
any skin and bones. Break up the meat into very small pieces or
flakes with a fork or chopsticks. or grind it in a grinding bowl
Place the ground salmon meat in a small saucepan. add the salt and
sugar, and. stirring constantly. cook over low heat for 3-4 minutes or
until the meat becomes dry and fluffy. Transfer it to a small bowl.
Mix the sweetened and parched meat with half of the sushi rice and
set aside.
Yellow-tinted Sushi Rice Beat the egg together with a pinch each of
salt and sugar. Pour into a small frying pan greased with cooking oil
and scramble the eggs until they are dry. (The smaller the pieces
of egg the better.) Finely mince the eggs. Mix the egg with the
remaining sushi rice.
Place a half-sheet of nori horizontally on a rolling mat. Wet your
hands with vinegared water. Spread half of the yellow-tinted rice
over the central area of nori leaving about 1 cm of the two long
edges of the nori uncovered (1). With the rolling mat. fold the nori
over the rice to make a teardroplike shape (2). Repeat this procedure
with the remaining tinted rice and nori, making a total of four falls.
Place one roll of yello\lv-tinted rice and one roll of pink-tinted rice on
5
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73
74
Inside-out Thick Rolled Sushi
(Kawari Futo-maki-zushi)
This variety of rolled sushi is made of two layers of sushi rice
separated by a sheet of nod. When rolled and cut, the finished pro-
duct features a spiral of nori on its face. This roll is larger than Thick
Rolled Sushi. If you are short of nori. this recipe will help you to
stretch it and still enjoy a meal of sushi.
2 rolls
1 2/3 cups uncooked rice. prepared as for sushi rice
1 sheet nod. cut in half
1 rolled omelet (page 9), cut into narrow strips
1/2 cucumber, sliced lengthwise into long. narrow strips
2 seasoned shiitake (page 19), sliced into strips
1 tablespoon black sesame seeds
vinegared water (1 cup water with 2-3 tablespoons vinegar)
Divide the rice into four parts. Place a sheet of nori vertically on a
rolling mat. Wet your hands with vinegared water and spread one
part of the rice from left to right over the entire sheet of nori (1).
Place a moistened cloth over a second rolling mat. Lay the nce-
covered nori, rice side down, on the cloth (2). WeI your hands with
vlnegared water and spread another part of the rice over the nor! (3).
On the edge closest to you place of the strips of omelet and
mushroom and some long strips of cucumber (4). Roll up the towel.
rice. and ingredients in the mat as you would for Thick Rolled Sushi
(page 68). Press the roll to set it and adjust its shape (5). Unroll
the mat and carefully remove the towel. lift the fall and place it on
a cutting board. To garnish. spnnkle some black sesame seeds in a
a line along the roll (6). Wrap the roll in clear plastic wrap that has
been moistened with vinegared water (7). Cut into two. four. and
then eight pieces (8). Repeat the procedure to make a second roll.
For a variation. substitute a sheet of oboro kombu for the plastic
wrap. Inside-out Thick Rolled Sushi is illustrated in cotor on page 52.
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Plum-Blossom-shaped Rolled Sushi
(Umebachi Maki)
Rolled Sushi in Comma Shapes (Tomoe-zushi)
A circle made of two interlocking comma shapes, called a tomoe
in Japan, is a design motif found throughout the world. In Japan.
it is used as a family crest or as a decorative device on the ends of
roof tiles or on other objects. The type of sushi that incorporates this
motif is relatively difficult to make. Before inviting guests to applaud
your skill at making this variety of sushi, it would be prudent to have
a dress rehearsal.

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This decorative sushi is used to add an accent of color and variety to
an artistic arrangement of several types of sushi.
1 scant cup uncooked rice. prepared as for sushi rice and divided
Into ten portions
1 sheet nod. cut In half
2 1/2 sheets of nori, cut Into quarters (The h a l f ~ s h e e t is simply cut in
half, thus making a total of 10 quartet-sheets.)
2 1-em-square strips of rolled omelet (page 9) about 10 em long
or 2 Wieners, boiled and cooled
vinegared water (1 cup water with 2-3 tablespoons vinegar)
2 rolls
Place a Quarter-sheet of nori horizontally on a rolling mat. Wet your
hands with vinegared water. Spread one portion of rice over the nori
leaving the far edge of the nori uncovered (1). Roll the rice and nori
wIth a rolling mat (2). Repeat the process with the remaining rice and
quarter-sheels of nori. making a total of ten rolls. Place a half-
sheet of non vertically on the roUing mat (3). Lay three rolls of
rice on the half-sheet. On top of the center roll place a strip of
omelet or 1 cooked wiener (4). Lay two rolls on top of the egg or
wiener and secure the bundle together with Ihe half-sheet of nori.
To secure the half-sheet slightly moisten the overlapping edge with
a damp cloth (5). Cut 10 half and then in quarters. Standing each
piece on end will reveal the five-petaled plum blossom with a
colored center from which this type of sushi takes its name (6).
Repeat the process with the remaining five rolls and half-sheet of
nori. Plum-Blossom-shaped Rolled Sushi is illustrated in color
on page 54.
2 rolls
2
1 scant cup uncooked rice, prepared as for sushi rice
2 sheets nod, 1 sheet cut widthwise into thirds
40 cm seasoned kampyo (page 13)
1 piece seasoned freezedried bean curd (page 5), cut into
1-cm-square strips
100 grams spinach, boiled in salted water. rinsed in cold water, and
squeezed dry
vinegared water (1 cup water with 2-3 tablespoons vinegar)
77
79
Place one of the smallest sheets of nori horizontally on a rolling
mat. Wet your hands with vinegared water. Spread a small amount
2 rolls
1 scant cup uncooked rice, prepared as for sushi rice
3 sheets nori. Cut 1 sheet in half; 1 sheet in quarters; and 1 sheet in
half, and each half cut once again along a line that marks 1/3 of
the half-sheers length (see illustration on next page)
2 1-cm-square strips of rolled omelet (page 9), cut the same
length as a half-sheet of nori
vinegared water (1 cup water with 2-3 tablespoons vinegar)
Four Seas Rolled Sushi (Shikai Maki)
2
Place a sheet of nori vertically on a rolling mat. Wet your hands
with vinegared water and spread one half of the sushi rice over the
sheet (1) in such a way that by the time you reach two-thirds of the
way up the nori the layer of rice is very thin. Lay half the kampyo.
bean curd strips, and spinach on the rice about one-third of the
distance from the top of the incline (2). Roll the mat over the nori,
rice. and filling (3). Add a third-sheet of nori over the exposed nori
and rice at the end of the roll. aligning the two far edges (4).
Correct any irregularities in the comma shape by tapping the ends
of the roll and manipulating the rolling mat (5). Remove the roll from
the mat and cut it in half. Replace one-half of the roll in the rolling
mat (6). Rest the other half inside the first. its "head" within the "tail"
of the first. Roll the two halves together with the rolling mat (7).
Adjust the shape and allow the roll to set for a moment. Remove the
roll from the mat. Moisten a knife on a wet cloth and quarter the roll
(8). thus revealing the interlocking comma shapes. Repeat the
process to make a second roll. Rolled Sushi in Comma Shapes is
illustrated in cofor on page 53.
of nce on the nori and roll into a slim roll (1). Place a quarter-sheet
of non horizontally on the rolling mat. Wet your hands with vine-
gared water. Spread with rice and place the just-made slim roll on
the center of the rice (2). Roll the two together. the slim roll centered
within the larger roll (3). Place a third-sheet of nori hOrizontally on
the rolling mat. Wet your hands with vmegared water. Spread with
rice and place the double roll just made in the center (4). Roll to
form a still larger roll (5). Cut the three-part roll in Quarters length-
wise (6-7). Arrange the Quarters. their cut sides oul. around the
strip of omelet and wrap with a half-sheet of nori to make a square bar.
Adjust the shape and allow to set for a few moments. Slice into
quarters. Repeat this procedure to make a second roll. Four Seas
Rolled Sushi is illustrated in color on page 54.
Cut the two three-part rolls in half lengthwise. Place a half-sheet
of nori vertically on a rolling mat. Arrange the halves. their cut
sides out. around the strip of omelet. Roll the bundle in the half-
sheet of nori. Allow to set for a few moments. Carefully remove the
mat and slice into quarters. Coin-pattern Rolled Sushi is illustrated in
color on page 54.
Pomegranate-shaped Sushi (Zakuro-zushi)
The bright red orange salmon roe "seeds" against the dark non
"skin" of this sushi pomegranate are a delight to the eye. While the
recipe that follows makes 10 large "fruits:' simply adjusting the
sizes of the nori and omelets you can make bite-size "fruits" which
are especially good with sake.
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10 "fruits"
1 2/3 cups uncooked rice, prepared as for sushi rice and divided
into ten portions
10 thin omelets (page 8), cut into 13-cm squares
10 sheets nori, cut into 15-cm squares
3-4 tablespoons fresh salmon roe, herring roe, or cod roe
vinegared water (1 cup water With 2-3 tablespoons
vinegar)
On a square of nori center one of the omelets. Roll one portion of
rice into a ball (1). lay a nearly dry. damp towel over your left hand.
Place the nori and omelet on the towel. In the center rest the ball of
rice (2). If the towel is not sufficiently wrung out. the nori Will
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Coin-pattern Rolled Sushi (Bunsen Maki)
This is a variation of Four Seas Rolled Sushi (page 79) in which the
pattern created by the dark-colored nod and white rice is similar to
the pattern seen on a medieval Japanese coin and an abstraction of
one of the two ideograms used to write the name of the coin in
Japanese. The ingredients are identical except that two three-part
rolls are utilized to make one very large. round roll.
80
8/
become damp and maybe even stick to the towel. Gather the towel
up around the nori, omelet. and rice and form a ball. gently gathering
the towel underneath (3). Correct the shape, Carefully unfurl the
towel and remove the nori-covered rice ball. Moisten the blade of a
knife on a wet cloth and slash a cross in the top of the ball (4). If
you have lots of roe on hand. make the slashes deep. Carefully turn
back the nori and omelet skin and stuff the roe into the opening (5).
Pomegranate-shaped Sushi is iHustrated in color on page 53.
Scattered Sushi
4
82
3
5
The easiest of all sushi to prepare is a salad!ike dish called chirashi-
zushi, or scattered sushi. It resembles nothing so much as a Western
rice salad and can be served at any time of the year. to guests or to
family_ In some districts of Japan this dish is called gomoku-zushi
or bara-zushi. Whatever its name. the taste experience is unique.
wherever you eat it. Indeed. there are as many variations of scattered
sushi as there are people who make it. and irs not too much to say
that almost any vegetable. cooked or fresh. or fish. grilled or raw, has
at sometime or other been incorporated into this dish.
Introduced here are five representative variations of scattered sushi.
one of which is steamed. Once you've made anyone of these dishes
you can immediately begin to explore other possible combinations of
ingredients. Improvisation is the key to delicious scattered sushi.
Making do with what's on hand in your kitchen will surely reveal
some surprising taste experiences. Giving a new concoction an
artistic and appetizing name will add even more to your fun.
Kanto-style Scattered Sushi
(Kanto-fu Chirashi-zushi)
Just as the name of this dish suggests. this type of scattered sushi is
popular In Kanto. the area in and around Tokyo.
4 servings
2 1/2 cups uncooked rice, prepared as for sushi rice
20 grams seasoned kampyo (page 13), chopped into small pieces
4 shrimps. Devein. boil in salted water. shell. and sprinkle with 2
teaspoons of vinegar sweetened with 1/2 teaspoon sugar.
2 seasoned conger eel fillets (page 30), cut into bite-size pieces
1 gizzard shad, 150 grams fresh tuna, and 150 grams fresh squid.
83
84
Cut each into bite-size pieces and sprinkle with sweelened
vinegar as for the shrimps.
1 2-egg. rolled omelet (page 9), CUI inlo 1-cm cubes
4 seasoned shiitake (page 19). cut into bite-size pieces
50 grams lotus root. Peel. slice thin, and soak in vinegared water for
10 minutes. In a saucepan boll enough water to cover the slices.
Add a pinch of salt and a dash of vinegar. Add the slices and boil
for 30-40 seconds. Remove the slices from the water and
mannate for 10 minutes in a mixture of 2 tablespoons stock no. 2
(page 6) or water. 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1 teaspoon sugar.
1 cucumber. Sprinkle with salt, roll on cutting board to soften.
slice thin. and remove seeds.
pickled ginger slices (page 12), or wasabi
Mix the kampyo with the sushi rice. Place the rice mixture in a large
serving dish and arrange the remaining ingredients on top. Garnish
with pickled ginger slices or wasabi.
To serve. scoop up rice along with the topping. Do not mix the
ingredients in the large serving bowl. This will destroy the decorative
effect and make the rice mushy. Kanto-style Scattered Sushi is
illustrated in color on page 56.
Kansai-style Scattered Sushi
(Kansai-fu Chirashi-zushi)
This is the kind of scattered sushi commonly served in Kansai, the
area around Osaka and Kyoto.
4 servings
2 1/2 cups uncooked rice, prepared as for sushi rice
4 seasoned shiitake (page 19), cut into bite-size pieces
10 grams seasoned kampyo (page 13), cut into small pieces
1-2 pieces seasoned freezedried bean curd (page 5), cut into thin
1-em squares
100 grams bamboo shoots. Slice into thin 1-em squares and season
over moderate heat in a saucepan containing a scant 112 cup
stock no. 2 (page 6). 1/2 teaspoon salt. 1 teaspoon mirin. 1
teaspoon soy sauce. and a pinch of salt.
4 seasoned conger eel fillets (page 30). cut Into bite-size pieces
50 grams lotus root, prepared as for Kanto-style Scattered Sushi
(page 83)
50 grams green beans. boiled in salted water and chopped into
small pieces
1 2-eg9 thin omelet (page 8), sliced into narrow strips
1 sheet nori. cut in half and then into narrow strips
pink-dyed ginger strips (page 12)
Mix the rice with the shiitake. bean curd. bamboo shoots. eeL kampyo.
and ginger strips. Place the rice mixture in individual serving bowls.
Arrange the beans. egg strips. and lotus root slices on top of each
serving. Sprinkle with nori strips just before serving. Kansai-style
Scattered Sushi is illustrated in color on page 56.
Five-color Sushi (Goshiki-zushi)
4 servings
2 1/2 cups uncooked rice. prepared as for sushi rice
200-250 grams minced white chicken meat. Fry the meat in an
ungreased frying pan until welt cooked. Remove the pan from the
heat. Push the cooked meat to one side and remove any excess
fat. Add 2 tablespoons sugar. 1 tablespoon mirin. and 3 table-
spoons soy sauce. Return the pan to the heat and cook the meat
until it is dry.
4-5 eggs. Beat together with 112 teaspoon salt and 1 teaspoon sugar.
Scramble the eggs in a greased frying pan over low heat. stirring
vigorously to make the pieces of egg very small. (Stirring with a
bundle of 7 or more chopsticks will give excellent results.)
200 grams carrot. Peel and slice into narrow strips. Sprinkle with 1/3
teaspoon salt and gently knead with hands until strips are limp.
Rinse and squeeze dry. Marinate in 1 teaspoon vinegar.
3-4 bell peppers. Boil until soft. Remove from water before their
color changes. Slice into narrow strips and drain.
200 grams white fish meat (frozen flounder or salmon. canned
salmon. or canned tuna can be substituted). Boil the fish in lightly
salted water with 2-3 thin slices of ginger root that have been
minced. Remove the skin and bones and transfer the fish to agrind-
ing bowl. Add 1 112-2 tablespoons sugar and 1/2 teaspoon salt
and pulverize the mixture in a grinding bowl. If you don't have a
85
Steamed Sushi (Mushi-zushi)
4 servings
2 1/2 cups uncooked rice, prepared as for sushi rice
10 grams seasoned kampyo (page 13). cut into small pieces
4-5 seasoned shiitake (page 19), diced
1 piece seasoned freeze-dried bean curd (page 5). diced
2 seasoned conger eel fillets (page 30), cut into bite-size pieces
4 shrimps. Devein. boil in salted water, and shell.
2 eggs made into thin omelets (page 8), cut into strips
50 grams green beans, boiled in salted water and cut on the
diagonal into bite-size pieces
1 sheet nod, cut in half and then into narrow strips
Piping hot. steamed sushi is a delicious dish to serve on a cold
winter day. Since it is so good. It'S recommended that you make
more than you need. Not only will you wish you had made more
once you have tasted this dish. it is also one of the few sushi dishes
that can be kept in the refrigerator for a day or two. Any leftover
that remains can be res teamed and served a second time.
Simply mix all the inQredients together in a large serving dish and
serve. Using small shrimps in place of the crab meat makes for a tasty
variation of this dish.
Scattered Sushi with Crab is illustrated in color on page 57.
4 servings
2 1/2 cups uncooked rice, prepared as for sushi rice
180-200 grams crab meat, shredded (frozen or canned crab will do)
and sprinkled with 1 tablespoon lemon juice
2-3 eggs made into thin omelets (page 8), cut into strips
1-2 cucumbers. Wash and slice thin. Sprinkle with 1/3-1/2
teaspoon salt and knead. Wash in fresh water and squeeze dry.
50 grams lotus root, prepared as for Kanto-style Scattered Sushi
(page 83)
2 large seasoned shiitake (page 19). cut into strips
Scatlered Sushi with Crab (Kani Chirashi-zushi)
5
4
Fill a large serving dish with rice. Sprinkle the sesame seeds and
ginger over the rice. Visually divide the surface of the rice into five
equal areas. (This is easiest to do in a round dish.) In each area place
one of the prepared toppings: chicken meat. egg. carrot. peppers,
and fish.
The chrysanthemum garnish shown in the color illustration on
page 57 is made with a thin omelet. Prepare a thin omelet (page 8).
Fold the omelet into thirds, placing two sides over the center (1).
Fold this folded omelet in half again (2). With a sharp knife
make cuts into the open side of the long. narrow, folded omelet at
about 5-mm intervals, cutting halfway across the omelet (3). Gently
roll the omelet from the end (4). Separate the loops to open the
"chrysanthemum" (5). Place 2-3 clean chrysanthemum leaves in the
center of the dish of rice and set the omelet chrysanthemum
in the center.
grinding bowl. finely mince the meat and mix with salt and sugar.
Parch the mixture over low heat until all the moisture evaporates.
As the grinding of fish meat is a time-consuming task, it is
recommended that you make this preparation in bulk and keep it
in the refrigerator for future use.
50 grams ginger root. Peel and slice into short strips. Soak in water
for 5 minutes and drain.
2 tablespoons white sesame seeds, roasted to a golden brown
2 3
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Combine the rice. kampyo. shiitake. and bean curd and place in a
heat-resistant bowl. or covered casserole. (Small individual serving
bowls that are heat-resistant can also be used.) Lay the pieces of eel
and the shrimps on top of the rice mixture. Steam for 13-1 5
minutes. Remove from the heat. Arrange the omelet strips and green
beans on top and serve. Place the nori strips in a separate bowl and
have them available for people to sprinkle on their sushi just before
eating. Steamed Sushi is illustrated in color on page 58.
Box Sushi and Pressed Sushi
With the three-piece pressing box (or suitable substitute) or by
simply pressing sushi rice and toppings together you can easily make
the many interesting and delicious types of sushi known as hako-
zushi and oshi-zushi, or box sushi and pressed sushi. The recipes
that follow tell you how to make three varieties of this type of sushi.
Once you have tried your hand at one of these. concoct your own
variations.
Whenever making pressed sushi, once you have removed it from the
pressing box frame wait a few minutes before cutting the finished
product. This will allow the individual flavors of the ingredients to
blend.
Shrimp Box Sushi (Ebi no Hako-zushi)
8 x 16 x 4 cm pressing box
1 scant cup uncooked rice. prepared as for sushi rice
5 shrimps, each 8-10 cm long. Remove the back gut. Skewer and
boil in salted water until the color changes. Soak immediately
in cold water. Remove the legs and shells. Soak in a marinade
of 2 tablespoons rice vinegar, 2 tablespoons stock no. 2. {page 6}.
1 tablespoon mirin. 1 1/2 teaspoons sugar, and 1/3 teaspoon
salt for 5-10 minutes. Slash each shrimp along its underside
and spread flat.
2 seasoned shiitake (page 19). cut into strips
1/2 teaspoon wasabi
bamboo leaves. or aspidistra leaves. aluminum foil. or plastic wrap
vinegared water (1 cup water with 2-3 tablespoons vinegar)
Moisten the three parts of the pressing box with vinegared water.
Lay leaves. or substitute, on the bottom of the pressing box (1).
89
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lay enough of the shrimps. back side down. to cover the bottom of
the box. Alternate the direction of the shrimps to ensure complete
coverage (2). With your finger spread wasabi evenly over the
shrimp. Wet your hands with vmegared water. Spread one-half of
the rice over the shrimps (3). Sprinkle the shiitake strips over the
rice (4). Wet your hands with vinegared water. Spread the remaining
half of the rice over the shIItake (5). lay leaves. or substitute. over
the rice (6). Moisten the pressing box lid in vinegared water and
place on top of the leaves (7). Press down on the lid evenly, chang-
ing hand positions several times to ensure an even press. Remove
the side frame with the fmgers while the lid is secured with the
thumbs (8). Remove the lid and the layer of leaves (9). Flip over
the stacked mgredlents. Remove the box bottom and layer of leaves
(10). Moisten a knife blade on a wet cloth and slice. Transfer to a
serving dish. Serve with soy sauce. Shrimp Box Sushi is illustrated in
color on page 55.
91
Conger Eel Box Sushi (Anago no Hako-zushi)
8 x , 6 x 4 em pressing box
1 scant cup uncooked rice, prepared as for sushi rice
4 seasoned conger eel fillets (page 30). While still warm, flatten
fillets with a heavy spoon or spatula and cut to fit pressing box.
1 cucumber. Thinly slice and soak in 1 scant cup of water containing
1 teaspoon salt. Once limp, remove slices from the salted water
and squeeze dry.
20 grams ginger root, peeled. cut into narrow strips. and soaked in
water
bamboo leaves, or aspidistra leaves. aluminum foil. or plastic wrap
glaze: mix and boil 1 teaspoon each of soy sauce. mirin. and sugar
vinegared water (1 cup water with 2-3 tablespoons vinegar)
Assemble as for Shrimp Box Sushi (page 89) in the following order:
leaves. or substitute: eel pieces. skin side up: ginger strips: half of
the sushi nce: cucumber slices: remaining sushi rice: and leaves.
Before cutting. brush eel pieces with glaze. Conger Eel Box Sushi is
illustrated In color on page 55.
the marinated mackerel fillets. using tweezers if necessary (1). Pull
off the thin outer skin starting from the head end of the fillets (2).
Be careful not to pull off the silvery blue underskin which is beau-
tiful as well as edible. Laterally slice the fillet in half (3). Soak a
cotton cloth in vinegared water and wring dry. Place it on a rolling
mat (4). Place fillet slices. skin side down. on the cloth and mat.
Make sure the slices are flat. Add smaller pieces of meat to the
sides to form a rectangle (5). Wet your hands with vinegared water.
Spread half of the rice and ginger mixture over the fish (6). Roll
2
------'==)
(
-.
-== '11:
4
6

-, -
- ..
3
---
,--
2 sticks
Mix the ginger strips and rice. Set aside. Remove the bones from
Mackerel Stick Sushi (Saba no Bo-zushi)
1 2/3 cups uncooked rice, prepared as for sushi rice
1 medium-size mackerel. Dress according to three-part method.
Salt both sides of the fillets generously and allow to set for at
least 4 hours. (This salting can be done a day ahead.) Wash the
fillets and pat dry. Marinate In 1/2 cup vinegar sweetened with
2 tablespoons sugar for 30-60 minutes. (The length of time is
variable according to taste.)
50 grams ginger root, peeled and cut into narrow strips
vinegared water (1 cup water with 2-3 tablespoons vinegar)
optional: 30-cm length of shiraita kombu. Boil for approximately
3 minutes in 2 tablespoons vinegar. 1/2 tablespoon sugar, 2
tablespoons water. and a pinch of salt. Remove and drain.
92
the mat and cloth over the rice and fish (7) and press slightly. Turn
the roll over so that the fish is on the top. Apply pressure to the
mat to adjust the shape (8). Allow to set for a few moments.
Carefully lift the mat and cloth away from the fish and rice. Lay a
piece of shiraita kombu (or plastic wrap) over the fish (9). Cut into
8 equal pieces and serve. Repeat this procedure to make a second
stick. The shiraita kombu can be eaten with the sushi but the plastic
wrap will. of course. have to be removed. Mackerel Stick Sushi is
illustrated in color on page 58.
Barber Pole Sushi (Tazuna-zushi)
Tazuna refers to a type of decoration composed of alternating
diagonal stripes of two contrasting colors. most often red and white.
This decoration resembles the stripes on a candy cane or a barber-
shop pole. This recipe incorporates many differently colored
ingredients. but a simpler variation could incorporate only two
differently colored ingredients and have the same decorative
effect.
2 rolls
Soak a cotton cloth in vlOegared water and wrtng dry. Place on a
rolling mat. Arrange. in a slanted row. the sliced squid. shrimp. fish.
omelet strips. and cucumber. upside-down on the cloth (1). Cut one
sheet of nori to fit the row of fish. omelet. and vegetables and lay it
over the back of this row of ingredients (2). Wet your hands
1 scant cup uncooked rice. prepared as for sushi flee
2 sheets of nori
50 grams squid, prepared as for Stuffed SqUid Sushi (page 99) and
cut into 1 )( 5 cm strips
2 shrimps. each about 7-8 cm long. prepared as for Shrimp Box
Sushi (page 89)
1 1 rolled omelet (page 9). cut IOta 1-cm square striPS
small amount of mackerel. or other sllver-sklOned fish such as
gizzard shad. prepared as for Mackerel Stick Sushi (page 92) and
cut IOta 1 )( 5 cm strips
5-cm-long piece of cucumber. Sprinkle with salt. Roll on a flat
surface to soften. Cut Into 1-cm square StriPS
vinegared water (1 cup water wIth 2-3 tablespoons vinegar)
8 7

, , " ......
s-
94
with vinegared water and spread half of the rice over the nori (3).
Roll the cloth and rolling mat over the rice and toppings (4). Press
down slightly. Roll the ingredients together (5). Adjust the shape of
the roll and allow to set for a moment. Carefully remove the mat and
cloth (6). Repeat this procedure to make a second stick.. Slice and
serve with soy sauce. Barber Pole Sushi is illustrated in color on
page 59.
7
bones with tweezers and cut the fillets lengthwise in two. Laterally
slice the fillets so that all pieces are equal in thickness to the
belly meat. .
vinegared water (1 cup water with 2-3 tablespoons vinegar)
lay a damp cotton cloth over a rolling mat. the fish
slices. skin side down. in the center of the cloth In a row 6-7
cm wide. Wet your hands with vinegared water. lay the rice on.
lap of the fish. Roll the cloth and rolling mat over the rice and flsh
and squeeze gently. Turn the mat over so that the fish is top.
Apply pressure to the mat to adjust the shape. Allow to Sit for a few
minutes. Carefully remove the mat and slice.
If this dish is prepared ahead of time, irs recommended that yo.u
wrap the completed roll in shiraita kombu or plastic wrap. otherWise
the flavor will deteriorate and the rice will dry out. Any leftover
marinated fish can be served as finger sushi. Sea Bream Pressed
Sushi is illustrated in color on page 55.
__5 __----,-/
6

...
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...... .. ...' ..... -... /
96
Sea Bream Pressed Sushi (Shime-dai no Oshi-zushi)
2 bars
1 2/3 cups uncooked rice, prepared as for sushi rice
1 300-gram sea bream. Fillet according to three-part method.
Sprinkle evenly with 2 tablespoons salt and allow to sit for 30-40
minutes. Wash and tap fillets dry. Marinate for 10-20 minutes in
1/2 cup rice vinegar sweetened with 1 tablespoon sugar. (The
fillets will discolor if marinated for too long.) Pull out any small
97
98
Miscellaneous Sushi Varieties
Hand-rolled Sushi (Temaki-zushi)
Perhaps the easiest way to share a sushi experience with friends is
to serve them temaki-zushi. or hand-rolled. do-it-yourself sushi. All
you need to do is to prepare ingredients in advance. attractively
arrange them on plates or a large tray. and encourage your guests to
experiment To hand roll your own sushi. spoon some sushi rice on
a small piece of nori. add a pinch of wasabi or strips of ginger. and
then roll it up with a bit of fish and some vegetable strips.
Almost anything thal would go well with the tastes of sushi rice
and nori can be included in hand-rolled sushi. Strips of cooked
chicken. ham. sausage. and even rare foast beef make delicious
fillings. The list of ingredients that follows will give you an idea of
how much to prepare for a gathering of four people Hand-rolled
Sushi is illustrated in color on page 61.
2 1/2 cups rice, prepared as for sushi rice
10-12 sheets of nod, cut into quarters
8 shrimps, each about 8-10 em long. Devein. skewer. and boil in
salted water. Shell and cool.
4 seasoned conger eel fillets (page 30), cut into pieces as long as
a quarter-sheet of nori
150-200 grams each of fresh squid, tuna, or other fish. cut into
strips as long as a quarter-sheet of nori
1 2-egg rolled omelet (page 9), cut into strips as long as a quarter-
sheet of nori
2 cucumbers. Peel and salt and rub on a clean. flat surface. Slice
into narrow strips as long as a quarter-sheet of nori.
150 grams fuki (coltsfoot), generously salted. (If canned. simply
blanch and transfer to serving dish. If fresh. boil in salted water.
then plunge into cold water. Remove the outer skin in the cold
water.) Cut into pieces the length of a quarter-sheet of nori.
80-100 grams ginger root. Cut into needlelike strips. Soak in cold
water and drain.
wasabi
Stuffed Sweetfish Sushi (Ayu no Sugata-zushi)
4 servings
1 1/4 cups uncooked rice, prepared as for sushi rice
4 sweetfish, or small trout. Being careful not to destroy their shape.
scale and gut each fish. and wash well. With the point of a knife
cut each fish in half through the lower jaw along the belly and
all the way to the base of the tail. Spread the fishes open and
remove the bones. Sprinkle both sides of each fish with a mixture
of 1 1/4 cups vinegar sweetened with 1 tablespoon sugar. (Do
not overmarinate because the taste of this fish is particularly
delicate.)
pickled ginger stalks (page 12)
vinegared water (1 cup water with 2-3 tablespoons vinegar)
Soak a cloth If1 the vinegared water and wring dry. Place it on a
cutting board. Wet your hands with vinegared water. Scoop up a
quarter of the sushi rice and place it on the cloth in approximately
the shape of the fish. Place one 01 the lish. opened side down. on
the rice and gently shape it around the rice. Pick up the edge of the
cloth and lay it over the fish. Aollthe fish with the rice. Arrange on
a serving dish, adjust the tails. and garnish with pickled ginger
stalks. Stuffed Sweetfish Sushi is illustrated in color on page 59.
Stuffed Squid Sushi (Ika no Sugata-zushi)
4 servings
1 1 / 4 ~ 1 2/3 cups uncooked rice, prepared as for sushi rice
4 medium-size squid. dressed. Boil the squid in salted water lor
about 20 seconds and drain. Cut the tentacles and side fins into
small pieces and cook for 10 minutes in a scant 1/2 cup stock
no. 2 (page 6). 1 tablespoon mirin. 1 tablespoon soy sauce,
and 1 teaspoon sugar. Allow to cool.
99
1/2 cucumber. Peel and thinly slice. Sprinkle with 1/3 teaspoon salt
and knead until cucumber slices are limp. Rinse and drain.
1 tablespoon sesame seeds, roasted to a golden brown
vinegared water (1 cup water with 2-3 tablespoons vinegar)
Mix the small pieces of cooked squid. cucumber slices. and sesame
seeds with the rice. Wet your hands with vinegared water. Stuff the
four squid bodies with the rice mixture and slice into bite-size
pieces. Serve with wasabi or grated fresh ginger and soy sauce.
Stuffed Squid Sushi is illustrated in color on page 60.
Pine Cone Sushi (Matsukasa-zushi)
/
---=:;
/
1----
Cut the squid along the belly (1). Spread It flat on a cUl1ing board.
Holding your knife at a slant. crosshatch one side of the squid meat
with shallow slashes about 5 mm apart (2-4) This will prevent the
meat from curling when cooked and give it a texture reminiscent of
a pine cone. Bring a saucepan of salted water to a boil. drop In the
slashed squid meat and allow it to cook for about 15 seconds.
Remove the squid. drain. and let cool (5). Place the cooled squid
meat. slashed side down. on the cutting board. Wipe off any water
that remains. Lay a sheet of nori on the squid meat. fitting it inside
the curved edges (6). Wet your hands with vinegared water. Spread
half olthe rice on the nori. With your finger make a shallow furrow
lengthwise in the center of the rice. Place half of the kampyo (7).
shiitake. fish. and snow peas in the furrow. Set aside. Place a rolling
mat on the cutting board; cover with a damp cotton cloth. Place the
filled squid meat on the cloth and roll in the cloth and rolling mat (8).
1 1/4 cups uncooked rice, prepared as for sushi rice
2 medium-size squids, dressed
21 O-cm-square sheets of nori
40 em of seasoned kampyo (page 13), cut to match the length of
the squid body
2 seasoned shiitake (page 19), cut into strips
2 tablespoons white fish meat, prepared as for Five-color Sushi
(page 85)
20 grams snow peas, boiled in salted water and cut into narrow
stripS
vinegared water (1 cup water with 2-3 tablespoons vinegar)
2 rolls
700
702
Adjust the shape. Carefully unroll the mat and cloth and place the
rolled squid on the cutting board (9). Slice to desired thickness. Serve
as is or garnish with wasabi or pickled ginger slices and serve with
soy sauce. Pine Cone Sushi is illustrated in color on page 60.
Tea Cloth Sushi (Chakin-zushi)
8 pieces
1 1/4 cups uncooked rice, prepared as for sushi rice
100 grams bamboo shoots. Cut the shoots into thin 5-cm squares.
Cook in a scant 1/2 cup stock no. 2 (page 6). 1 teaspoon
sugar. 1 teaspoon soy sauce. and a pinch of salt.
2 large, seasoned shiitake (page 19), cut into strips
8 thin omelets, cut lnto 16-17-cm squares
8 long spinach leaves, blanched in salted water
8 small shrimps. Boil in salted water, shell, and devein.
1 tablespoon sesame seeds, roasted to a golden brown
vinegared water (1 cup water with 2-3 tablespoons vinegar)
Mix bamboo shoots. shiitake. and sesame seeds into the sushi rice.
Divide the rice into 8 portions. Wet your hands with vinegared water.
Place one portion of rice in the center of an omelet square. Gather
r
up the corners of the omelet and tie it up in a bag shape. using a
spinach leaf as a string (1). With your thumb. press down the
corners that stick up, thereby flattening the shape so it will sit well
(2). Garnish with a shrimp. Tea Cloth Sushi is illustrated in color
on page 60.
2
Silk Square Sushi (Fukusa-zushi)
8 pieces
Mix ingredients as for Tea Cloth Sushi (preceding page). Shape one
portion of rice into an ovoid and lay it at an angle in the center of
an omelet square. Fold the corners of the omelet over the rice (1). Tie
up the folded corners with a spinach leaf (2). Garnish with a shrimp.
Silk Square Sushi is illustrated in color on page 60.
104
Fox Sushi (Inari-zushi)
The fox appears in many guises in Japanese folklore. A most mis
chievous animal. it is often playing tricks on humans. The fox is also,
however. the messenger of Inari. the god of the harvest. with whom
the fox is identified. As one of the fox's favorite foods is deep-fried
bean curd slices. the sushi made with it is called Inad-zushi.
The recipe that follows includes many ingredients to be added to
sushi rice that 1$ then stuffed mto seasoned pouches made of deep-
fried bean curd stices. like most sushi recipes. this list can be
abbreviated or substitutes can be used as you see fit. Some people
add nothing to the rice: others. only sesame seeds.
24 pieces
21/2 cups uncooked rice. prepared as for sushi rice
12 pieces of deepfried bean curd. Cut in half and open into
pouches. (If difficult to open. roll each piece with a rolling pm.
This will make separation easy.) Boil for about 1 minute to rid
pieces of excess oiL Drain. Combine 1 1/4 cups stock no. 2
(page 6). 5-6 tablespoons sugar. and 3-4 tablespoons soy sauce
in a saucepan. Add salt to taste. Bring to a boil over high heat.
Lay m the pieces of deep-fried bean curd and boil until the liquid
evaporates. Be careful not to puncture them while cookmg.
Remove the pieces from the pan and drain.
100 grams carrot. Cut into narrow strips. Sprinkle with salt and
knead until limp. Wash and squeeze dry.
100 grams burdock. Cut into narrow strips and soak in vinegared
water for a few minutes. Boil in stock no. 2 until soft. Cook a
second time in 1 tablespoon soy sauce. 2 teaspoons sugar, and 1
teaspoon mirin until liquid evaporates.
3-4 seasoned shiitake (page 19), cut into narrow strips
100 grams snow peas, boiled in salted water and cut at an angle
into small pieces
2 tablespoons white sesame seeds, roasted to a golden brown
vinegared water (1 cup waler with 2-3 tablespoons vinegar)
Mix carrot. burdock. shiitake. snow peas. and sesame seeds with
sushi rice. Stuff into seasoned pouches. For variety, some of the
pouches can be turned inside out or cut on the diagonal to make
small triangles. Fox Sushi is illustrated in color on page 60.
Devil's-Tongue-Jelly Sushi (Konnyaku-zushi)
16 pieces
1 2/3 cups uncooked rice, prepared as for sushi rice
2 8 x 15 x 4-cm cakes of dev;rs-tongue jelly. Cut the Jelly
widthWise in half and then cut each half in half diagonally to make 8
triangular pieces. Sprinkle pieces with sail. knead. and boil in
water for 5 minutes. Cut the pieces laterally in half to make 16
equally shaped triangular pieces. Mak.e a slash into the longest
side of each tnangle. (Make it deep enough to allow you to stuff
the piece.) Boil the pieces for 10 minutes in 1 1/4 cups stock no.
2 (page 6). 2 1/2 tablespoons sugar. 4 1/2 teaspoons soy
sauce. and 1 1/2 teaspoons salt. Cool.
100 grams carrot. Cut into narrow strips. [Link] With salt. and
knead until limp. Wash and squeeze dry. Sprinkle with 1/2
teaspoon vinegar.
30 grams snow peas, boiled in salted water and cut into narrow
strips
1 tablespoon white sesame seeds, roasted to a golden brown
2 large, seasoned shiitake (page 19), cut into narrow striPS
Combine carrots. snow peas. shiitake. and sesame seeds with sushi
rice. Stuff each triangle with the mixture. Devlt's- Tongue-Jelly Sushi
IS illustrated in color on page 60.
Bamboo-Leaf-wrapped Sushi (Sasa Maki-zushi)
24 pieces
1 2/3 cups uncooked rice, prepared as for sushi rice
12 shrimps, each about 6-7 cm long. Prepare as for Shrimp Box
Sushi (page 89). Marinate shrimps in 4 tablespoons vinegar
sweetened with 1 tablespoon sugar for about 5 minutes. Drain.
150 grams fresh salmon fillet. Peel off skin and remove any bones.
Slice fillet at an angle into bite-size pieces. Salt with 2 teaspoons
salt and allow to set for 20-30 minutes. Rinse and marinate in 4
tablespoons vinegar sweetened with 1 tablespoon sugar for
about 5 minutes. Drain.
24 bamboo leaves, washed and dried. When not available. any
105
aromatic leaves can be used. just as long as they are safe for
wrapping food and not sprayed with pesticide. Aluminum foil can
be used in a pinch. In Japan. persimmon and magnolia leaves are
also used to wrap this type of sushi.
wasabi
vinegared water (1 cup water with 2-3 tablespoons vinegar)
Wet your hands with vinegared water. Divide rice into 24 equal
portions. Shape each portion of rice into a triangular shape. Spread a
little wasabi on each. (1). Top half of the rice triangles with shrimp
and half with salmon. Place one triangle of rice and fish on a leaf (2).
Wrap the rice and fish inside the leaf (3-4). Bamboo-leaf-wrapped
Sushi is illustraled in color on page 58.
Sushi Cake
This spectacular sushi dish is quite simple to make. All you need to
do is prepare your favorite scattered sushi and Narrow Rolled Sushi
and combine them in an attractive way with other garnishes. This
dish can be served either as a side salad or as the centerpiece of a
buffet table. The size of the finished product can be varied to meet
the demands of almost any party. When making a large sushi cake.
an oval shape rather than the circular shape illustrated in color on
page 62 is recommended.
8 rolls of Narrow Rolled Sushi (page 70), any variety
5 cups scattered sushi (page 83). any variety
2
3 eggs made into thin omelets (page 8). With one omelet prepare
the chrysanthemum as for Five-color Sushi (page 85). Cut the
remaining omelets into long narrow strips.
I roll of Thick Rolled Sushi (page 68), loosely stuffed and cut about
4 em long
1-2 medium-size squids. Prepare as for Stuffed Squid Sushi (page
99). Cut the squids and spread them flat. Slash the meat at 6-7
mm intervals. Rotate the meat 90 and. holding the knife at an
angle. slice into strips about 3 cm wide (1). Soak the strips in
cold water for 5 minutes. Cook the strips in boiling water for
about 10 seconds. (Overcooking will result in toughness.) Roll
the strips to form flowers (2).
Fill a mixing bowl to the brim with the scattered sushi. Turn the bowl
over on the center of a large serving platter. Remove the bowl.
Encircle the mound with bite-Size pieces of the rolled sushi. Tie
WIth a ribbon. Spread out the rice mound to make it the same height
as the pieces of rolled sushi that surround It. Decorate as you
please with other foods.
To decorate a sushi cake like that Illustrated on page 62. assemble
the following:
106
108
6-8 small shrimps. Prepare as for Shrimp Box Sushi (page 89). but
leave them unslashed and unflattened.
fruit and leaves: maraschino cherries (or strawberries). orange
segments. chrysanthemum leaves
Following the illustration, arrange the above ingredients on the cake.
Place the 4cmtong piece of Thick Rolled Sushi in the center and
rest the omelet chrysanthemum on top.
Serving Suggestions
Sushi can turn any meal into a very special and memorable event.
Any of the varieties of sushi included ;n thIs book-artfully
arranged on trays or planers-will delight your family or guests.
These dishes can be a welcome change from your regular fare. and,
when entertaining. they will free you from the busyness that always
comes when serving hot foods. For special occasions that celebrate
a particular event. such as a birthday or anniversary, the colorful and
grand sushi cake described on page 107 can serve as a fitting (and
edible) centerpiece.
Don't be fooled into thinking that the lack of proper Japanese
ingredients will stop you from serving sushi. Granted. some sushi
ingredients are difficult to obtain. But it IS also [Link] that sushi can be
made With many of the ingredients that you have around the house.
In addition, a quick trip to your local market. your thinking cap on
your head. will give you all saris of good ideas. Avocado. cucumber.
carrot. lettuce. broccoli. celery. parsley, and sprouts from the produce
department (or your own garden). and balled ham. cooked sausage.
cold roast beef and pork, and canned salmon. crab. tuna. or sardines
make excellent toppings or fillings for sushi. Devising new sushi
dishes With any of these ingredients will add new dimensions to this
Japanese delicacy. With ingenuity. inventiveness. and improvisation.
you can devise a sushi dish of your own. a specialty that adds
variety to your menu and offers a new taste experience to your
guests.
In Japan. the so-called "westernized" sushi dishes-those that
use Western ingredients-are becoming more and more popular.
For example. sushi rice rolled up in a leaf of lettuce instead of the
traditional nori has even acquired a name of its own. All you need
to do is ask for sarada maki (salad-roll sushi) at a sushi shop and
without a moment's hesitation. the chef will prepare this new variety
for you. You might even try dipping your salad-roll sushi in mayon-
naise or some other Western-style dip instead of soy sauce. as some
sushi enthusiasts have begun to do recently.
709
110
For an informal gathering of friends. Hand-rolled Sushi served with
warmed sake and hot tea makes for a convivial atmosphere. Sitting
around a table and rolting up nori. rice. and filling. as the conversa-
tion turns from subject to subject. is great fun. If it's a cold night,
a bowl of hot soup. served after everyone has finished nibbling.
Will warm the guests and help to perk up the conversation. A
luncheon gathering calls for decorative and artful arrangements of
finger sushi and/or rolled sushI.
Japanese children are great sushi fans. Why not follow their
example and serve sushi at a chlldren's party? Rolled sushi made
With ham. cheese. or sweetened. rolled omelets served for lunch on
a summer day will be a welcome relief from the heat. Several easy-
to-eat varieties of sushi made with these Ingredients. arranged
on colorful plates in the shapes of plants and animals. will surprise
and delight chIldren the world over.
Taking sushi on your next picOlc will make for a nice change
from Ihe usual sandwich. Fish and other fillings that spOil qUickly
should be avoided. however. The sushi varieties to tuck in a picnic
basket or boxed lunch are those made with cooked and seasoned
ingredients. These varieties. coinCidentally, Improve in flavor wllh
time. Candidate's for such a lunch are pressed sushi such as
Mackerel Stick Sushi or Sea Bream Pressed Sushi. rolled sushi made
With vegetable fillings. Devil's-Tongue-Jelly Sushi. or Fox SushI.
No tableware is necessary except. perhaps, wooden chopsticks that
can be thrown away. Plates. too. can be dispensed with If the sushi
is packed In indiVidual boxes, Once you've finished your sushI
snack. all you need 10 do is throw your boxes and used chopsticks
In the trash can.
For these or any other occasions on which you serve sushI.
dampened cloths or paper napkins should be handy for diners to wipe
their lingers on as they eal.
Beverages
When you enter a Japanese sushi shop. the itamae, or sushi chef.
welcomes you with a hearty Irasshai! As you gaze about the
interior. a small damp towel. steaming hot or ice-cold depending on
the season. is placed on a long. sparkling clean. wooden counter to
indicate where you should sil. While you wipe your hands, your
eyes take in the long glass cases that cover mounds of neatly
stacked fish fillets. shellfish. vegetables. and other sushi ingredients.
When the itamae who will serve you looks your way In anticipation
of your first order. he Will ask, Q-nomimono wa? (What will you
have to drink nand place before you a tall, hefty cup of piping
hot tea.
If your answer to the itamae's question is tea. this first cup will
sit by your side and will be replenished now and then as your meal
progresses. Tea goes particularly well with sushI. A sip of tea taken
just before eating a morsel of sushi will freshen your palate and
allow you to better appreciate the delicate flavor of the nce and
topping.
If you prefer an alcoholic beverage. that. 100. will be brought to
you. Sake. beer. whiskey (on the rocks or In a highball). or even
wine goes well with sushi. If the itamae is properly attentive, he. or
one of his assistants. will see that your glass or sake cup is never
empty.
Sushi purists tend to favor tea and sake when they go out on the
town to enjoy their favorite meal. Most would agree that the flavors
of these two beverages best complement the flavors of all types of
sushi.
Tea To accompany a sushi meal. select a lower-priced. full-bodied
Japanese tea such as bancha or hOjfcha. or the slightly hIgher
Quahty sencha. The green lea known as gyokuro IS deliCIOUS. In fact.
il is 100 delicious. and liS sweel flavor does not go well with the
taste of fish.
Several cups of bancha or hOjlcha can be brewed at one time.
For each cup use about 1 1/2-2 lablespoons of tea and just a little bit
less than a cup of boding water. These amounts. however. can vary
substantially depending on the Quality of the tea. 1f you like. you can
simply add boiling water to the once-used leaves in the pot for a
second round of tea.
Sencha is graded according to when it was picked. the first
picking being higher in Quality and more expensive than the second
and so on. Sencha goes particularly well with sushi. However,
unlike bancha and hOjicha it is brewed one cup at a time. When
making sencha. warm the teapot with boiling water before putting
in the leaves.
Cups for serving tea should be large. deep, and feature thick
walls. Tea will stay warm for Quite a long time in cups that fit this
description.
111
112
Sake Sake. more properly Nihonshu (Japanese spirits). is one of
the traditional alcoholic beverages of Japan. It is made from
fermented rice. malt. and pure water. and can range in alcoholic
content from 16% to 19%. Sake comes in different tastes-sweet
(ama kuchi) and dry (kara kuchi)-and grades-special. first. and
second-according to its alcoholic content. Sake is most often
warmed to body temperature before drinking. but it IS also imbibed
at room temperature or ice-cold. poured over Ice. depending on the
season and the foods served.
To warm sake. first pour it into a smallmouthed ceramic. glass.
or metal container (one that holds a little less than 1 cup of liquid is
just the right size). Next. slowly lower the filled container into a
small saucepan of water that IS just about to boil. Test the tempera-
ture of the sake from time to time. Once it matches your body
temperature. the sake is ready to serve. Drink sake from small.
shallow cups. replenished frequently. while the next container of
sake is warming.
Sake added to the water for cooking rice will add to the taste and
fluffiness of the finished product. Whenever sake is called for In a
recipe. make sure to heat It before mixing It with the other ingredi-
ents. ThiS will release the fragrance and reduce the alcoholic
content. Once sake that has been heated for drinking cools. It can
be used to advantage in cooking.
Soups
There are two basIc types of soup that accompany most Japanese
meals. IOciuding one of sushi. One is a clear soup made of seasoned
stock and several artfully arranged morsels of food. it is served before
a meal to moisten the throat and whet the appetite for sake and the
meal to follow. The other is a thick soup. often made with miso
(fermented bean paste); it is sipped during or at the end of a meal
with a bowl of steaming hot rice. The soup that is served with sushi
IS most often of the latter. heartier type. A bowl of hot soup is the
perfect accompaniment to scattered sushi; towards the end of
a meal 01 finger sushi it is a welcome change in texture and
temperature.
The recipes that follow will give you an idea of the kind of soups
that best enhance the flavor of sushI. With imagination and flair they
can be modified to suit your own taste.
Bean Curd and Seaweed Soup( Tofu to Wakame no Suimono)
4 servings
3 1/3 cups stock no. 1 (page 6)
150 grams bean curd (1/2 cake), drained and sliced into 2-cm
cubes
7-10 grams wakame, cut into bite-size pieces. Wakame is available
at Oriental provisions stores and many health-food stores. If it
comes coated in dark gray ash. wash it thoroughly in cold water
and soak in water for about 15 minutes to soften it. If salted.
wash it thoroughly with cold water and soak in water for about
5 minutes.
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons sake
1-2 teaspoons soy sauce
Place all the ingredients in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Take off
the heat and serve.
Chicken and Vegetable Clear Soup
( Tori Sasami no Sumashi-jiru)
4 servings
3 1/3 cups stock no. 1 (page 6)
80-100 grams chicken breast meat, Cut into short StflpS. Sprinkle
With 1/2 teaspoon soy sauce and 1 teaspoon sake. Roll the strips
in cornstarch. Drop them into boiling water and cook for about
2 minutes.
50 grams carrots, cut into narrow strips
2 fresh shiitake, cut into thin strips
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons sake
1-2 tablespoons soy sauce
In a large saucepan. combine the stOck, carrot and shiitake strips.
salt. sake. soy sauce. and chicken strips. Bring to a boil and
cook long enough to finish cooking the chicken meat. Pour the
soup IOto serving bowls and garnish with a small edible leaf or
sprout.
/13
114
Clam Soup (Hamaguri no Ushio-jiru)
4 servings
15-cm-square piece of kombu, wiped with a damp cloth
4 cups water
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon soy sauce
4 tablespoons sake
5-6cm length of green onion, thinly sliced and soaked in cold water
for about 10 minutes. In Japan. use neg;; in the West. use leek or
the largest green onion or scallion you can find.
8 clams. Allow the clams to sit in water in a dark place. changing
the water 2 or 3 times. This will allow them to rid themselves of
foreign particles.
Pour the water into a large saucepan; add the kombu. dams. and
sake and bring to a boil. Just before the soup boils, remove the
kombu. Reduce the heal. Remove any bubbles that float on the
surface. Add the soy sauce and turn off the heat. Add the sliced
green onions. Fresh sprouts can be added as a garnish to each
servmg.
Egg Drop Soup (Kakitamajiru)
4 servings
3 1/3 cups stock no. 1 (page 6)
1 teaspoon salt
1-2 teaspoons soy sauce
2 eggs, beaten well
10 grams snow peas, thinly sliced; or trefoil. cut into 2-cm lengths
8 narrow strips of lemon peel
Pour the stock into a saucepan, add the salt and soy sauce, and
bring to a boil. Add the eggs by slowly pouring them down a pair
of chopsticks. The soup base should continue to boil so that the
eggs will form long threads. Once the egg has set. add the snow
peas or trefoil and turn off the heat. Pour into the serving bowls.
adding two strips of lemon peel to each. Egg Drop Soup is illustrated
in color on page 56.
Instant Clear Soup (Sokuseki Sumashi-jiru)
4 servings
15 grams oboro kombu
5 grams bonito shavings
3 1/3 cups boiling water
1/2 sheet of nod, cut into short narrow strips
10 grams ginger root. thinly sliced and soaked in cold water for 5
minutes
soy sauce
Place equal amounts of the obara kombu. bonito shavings. ginger.
and soy sauce into each of the four serving bowls. Add boiling
water to each bowl. Season each serving to taste with soy sauce.
Garnish with the nori strips just before serving. A variation of this
recipe can be made by simply addi ng a small umeboshi to each
serving.
Mountain Yam Drop Soup (Yamaimo no Otoshijiru)
4 servings
3 1/3 cups stock no. 1 (page 6)
80 grams red miso paste. Mlso is available at Oriental provisions or
health-food stores.
200 grams mountain yam. Thickly peel and soak m vinegared water
for about 20 minutes. Grate.
1/2 sheet of nori, cut into short narrow strips
Heat the stock in a saucepan. Add the miso and raise Ihe heal. Turn
off the heat just before the soup boils. Pour the soup inlo serving
bowls and drop in the grated yam. Scatter the nori strips over the
top just before serving. Just before eating. stir the strips into the
soup.
115
Sources for Japanese Foods
The following stores slock authentic Japanese foods. If stores are not listed
lor your area. consult the yellow pages of your telephone directory under the
Japanese foods. Oriental goods. and grocers-retail headings or enquire at the
Japanese restaurant nearest you.
United States
Ben"s Market
16427 S. Western Ave.
Alabama
Gardena 90247
Ebino Oriental Foods Boys Market
323 Air Base Blvd. General Office
Montgomery 36108 Bin 73 Arrova Annex
Oriental Super Market no.
Pasadena 91109
3480 Springhi\ls Ave.
Castro City Markel
Mobile 36608 40 S. Rengstorff Ave.
Mountain View 94040
Arizona
Oriental Food Center
Dobashi Market
240 Jackson St.
3920 Grand Ave.
San Jose 95112
Phoenix 85019
Oriental Food Store
Ebisu Market
408 W. Main
18940 Brookhurst SI.
Jacksonville 72076
Fountain Valley 92708
Eiko Shoten
California
6082 Universitv Ave.
Aloha Markel
San Diego 90502
900 South Harbor Blvd.
Enbun Co.
la Habra 90631
248 E. 1Sl St.
America Fish
los Angeles 9001 2
1790 Sutter St.
Food Co. Market. Inc.
San Francisco 90115
General Office
Asahi Market Co.. Inc.
2211 Davie Ave.
660 S. Oxnard Blvd. Commerce 90040
Oxnard 93030
Food Villa Inc.. Slore no. 5
B. C. Market
Suite 510
711 N. Broadway
1875 S. Bascom Ave.
los Angeles 90012
Campbell 95005
177
Flank's Ouelllal Market
Marutaka Uptown Market Sakae Oliental Grocery Granada Fish Market
209 S. Stine College Blvd.
3041 W. Olympic Blvd. 4227 Convoy St. 1275 19th St.
Anaheim 92806
los Angeles 90006 San Diego 92111 Denver 80202
Futaba Food Center
Masatani Store K. Sakai Co. Kim Young Orienlal
1507 lincoln Ave.
P.O. Box 38 1656 Post St.
1444 Chester St.
Pasadena 91103
Guadalupe 93434 San Francisco 90115 Aurora 80010
Garden Malkel
McCowan Market no. 2 Sakula Oriental
Pacific Mercantile Co.
449 N. 10th St.
970 W. 1st St. 4545 Centinela Ave.
1925 lawlence
Santa Paula 93060
San Pedro 90731 los Angeles 90066
Denver 80202
Golden West Food Marts
Meiji Market Santo Market. Inc.
Connecticut
2377 W. Pico Blvd.
1569 W. Redondo Beach Blvd. 245 E. Taylor
los Angeles 90006
Gardena 90247 San Jose 95112
Kims Oriental Foods & Gift
Higa Markel
202 Park Rd.
Mihama Fish Market Sawtelle Granada Market
West Hartford 06119
2313 W. Jefferson Blvd.
2601 Pacific Coast Hwy. 1820 Sawtelle Blvd.
los Angeles 90006
Torrance 90505 W. los Angeles 90025
bst/West Trading Co.
68 Howe St.
Highland Market-Kawase no. 1 Miura Market Senri Fish Market New Haven 06511
407 S. Highland Blvd. 9066 Woodman Ave. 111 N. lincoln Ave.
Hollywood 92632 Arlela 90013 Monterey Park 91754 Delawall
Hilihurst Malkel Miyako O,iental Foods. Inc. Shl's Market Oriental Grocery
1801 N. Hillhurst St. 404 Towne Ave. 9896 Garden Grove Blvd. 1705 Concord Pike
los Angeles 90027 los Angeles 90013 Garden Grove 92641 Wilmington 19803
Hub Mart Modern Food Market Spaffan Grocers
District of Columbia
2738 Hyperion Ave. 318 E. 2nd 51. P.O. Box 3549-Terminal Annex
los Angeles 90027 los Angeles 90012 los Angeles 90051
.House of Hanna
7838 Easter Ave.
Hughes Market
New Meiji Market Spot Market
Washington 20012
General Office
Pacific Square Center 15224 S. Western Ave.
2716 San Fernando Rd.
1620 W. Redondo Beach Blvd. Gardena 90247
Mikado Grocery
los Angeles 90065
Gardena 90247
4709 Wisconsin Ave. N.W.
Suruki Oriental Food
Washinglon 20016
Ida Co.
Nippon Food Market 1360 Broadway
339 E. 1lOt St.
2935 Bait Rd. Burlingame 94010
Florida
los Angeles 90012
Anaheim 92804
Takahashi Co.
Misako's Ollental Foods
Jlm's Market
Oriental Gift Shop 221 S. Clalemont
129 New Warrington Rd.
688 W. Baker St.
Rt.l.115W. Cuyama In. San Mateo 94401
North Pensacola 32406
Costa Mesa 92627
Nipomo 93444
Toyoko Food Market
O,iental Food Store
King Food Market
Oriental Grocery 15 W. Colorado Blvd.
4559 Shirley Ave.
2511 Sunset Blvd.
418 Island Ave. Pasadena 91101 Jacksonville 32210
los Angeles 90026
San Diego 92101
Vamasaki Grocery Oriental Market
Ralph's Grocery Co. 1566 Santa Fe Ave. 1202 S. Dale Mabry Hwy.
Kowloon Oriental Food
General Office long Beach 90813 Tampa 33609
6836 Edinges Ave.
P.O. Box 54143
Huntington Beach 92647
los Angeles 90054 Colorado Georgia
Kyolo Gift & Food
Royal Food Market Ann's Oriental Grocery Asian Trading Co.. lid.
2303 Highland Ave.
11905 Santa Monica Blvd.
315 Arvada St. 2581 Piedmont Rd. N. E.
National City 92050
los Angeles 90025
Colorado Springs 80906 Allanta 30324
/18
/19
Hamada StOle Miyashiro GrocelY Store
Oliental Market
Food CitY
885 Oueen St. 47_571 Kamehameha Hwy.
2306 lumpkin Rd.
Windwald Cily Shopping Center
Honolulu 96813 Kaneohe 96744
Augusla 30906
Kaneohe 96744
Holiday Mall MOI1rll StOll!
Seafood & Oriental Market
Foodland Super Market
345 Hahan! 51.
2643 S. Kmg St.
528 Main St.
Ala Moana Center
KaIlua 96734 Honolulu 96826
Forest Park 30050
Honolulu 96814
Hohday Malt
P & P Super Foods
Foodland Super Market
801 Kiiheka St.
2229 N. School 51.
Hawaii, Oahu
823 California Ave.
Honolulu 96814 Honolulu 96819
A & W Markets Wahiawa 96786
Holiday Mart
P & P Super Foods 870 Kapahulu Ave.
Foodland Super Market
850 Kamehameha Hwy. 3086 Waialae Ave. Honolulu 96816
Ewa Beach Shopping Center
P'wl City 96782
Honolulu 96816
Big-Way Super Market Ewa Beach 96706
Kahhi Queen's Super Market
Shirokiya Farrington Hwy.
Foodland Super Market
1010 Kalil SI.
Ala Moana Center Waianae 96792
160 Kailua Rd.
Honolulu 96819
Honolulu 96814
Big-Way Super Markel
Kailua 96734
KIt's SUpel Malket
Speedy's Super Market
440 Kilani Ave.
Foodland Super Market
66-190 Kamehameha Hwy.
99-079 Kauhale St.
Wahiawa 96786
Kalini Shopping Centel
Haleiwa 96712
Alea 96701
Big-Way Super Market
Honolulu 96819
Longs Dlug StOle
Sta, Super Market
94-340 Waipahu Depot St. Foodland Super Market
Ala MOiina Center
Kamehameha Shopping Cenler
Waipahu 96797
2919 Kapiolani Blvd.
Honolulu 96814
Honolulu 98619
Honolulu 96826
Longs Drllg Stole STar Super Market
Chun Hoon Super Market
1613 Nuuanu Ave. Foodland Super Market
143 S. Hotel St.
46-023 Kamehiimeha Hwy.
Honolulu 96817 Koko Marina Shopping Center
Honolulu 96817
Kaneohe 96744
Honolulu 96825
Longs Drug Store STar Super Markel
Emjay's
Ainii Haina Shopping Cenler Foodland Super Markel
Kahala Miill Shopping Center
30 KlhiiPiii St.
Aina Haina 96821 Pearl City Shopping Center
Honolulu 96816
Kiiiluii 96734
Peiirl City 96782
Longs Drug Store Stiir Super Miirket
EmJay's
1505 Dillingham Blvd.
Foodliind Super Ma,kel
591 Kiillua Rd.
2470 S. King St.
Honolulu 96817
Village Centel Nonh
Kailua 96734
Honolulu 96819
Mililani Town 96789
Longs Drug Store
Stll Super Mllket
Emlay's
94-300 Farlington Hwy.
G.m
Kamehamehii Shopping Center
Pearlrldge Centel
1199 Dillingham Blvd.
Honolulu 96819
Alea 96701
Waipahu 96797
Honolulu 96819
Emjay's
Longs Drug Siore
Star Super Market
G.m
Bay Shopping Center
4211 Waialae Ave.
110 Hekili St.
2055 Kam IV Rd.
Kaneohe 96744
Honolulu 96816
Kailua 96734
Honolulu 96819
Longs Drug Slore
Tanabe Superette Everybody's Super Markel
G.m
1330 Pali Hwy.
934 Keeaumoku St.
635 Pumehana St.
91-1207 Renton Rd.
Honolulu 96813
Honolulu 96814
Honolulu 96824
Ewa Beach 96706
Longs Drug Store Tiiniguchi Store Food City
G.m
Pearl CitY Shopping Center 2065 S. Beretania St. 1460 S. Beretania St.
333 Ward Ave.
Pearl City 96782 Honolulu 96826 Honolulu 96814
Honolulu 96814
Times Super Market Longs 0lU9 Store
Food City
Gibson's
Pearlridge Center Aiea Shoppmg Center
414 N. School St.
2850 Pukoloa SI.
Alea 96701 Alea 96701 Honolulu 96817
Honolulu 96819
121 120
Times Super Malkel Illinois
Mlrim Trading Co. Inc. New Jersey
1290 S. Beretanla St.
152 Halvard Ave.
Aki Qllental Food Co.
Honolulu 96814
Fal East Food Co. Allston 02134
1635 Lemoine Ave.
105 5. 5th 5t.
Times Super Market Champaign 61820
Yoshinoya
Fort Lee 07024
1210 Dillingham Blvd.
Ginza & Co.
36 Plospect St.
Daido Intemallonal
Honolulu 96817
315 E. UnivelSity
Cambridge 02139
1385165t.
Times Super Market
Champaign 61820
Fort Lee 07024
Michigan
94-766 Farringlon Hwy.
Hisaya's Qrlenlal Food
Miyako Oriental Foods
Waipahu 96797
112 Homestead
Mt. FUJi Oriental Foods 490 Main 51.
Times Super Markel
Ofallon 62269
22040 W. 10 Mile Rd. Fort Lee 07024
47-388 Hui Iwa
Slar Market
Southfield 48075
Oriental Bazaar
Kaneohe 96744
3349 N. Clark St. Oriental Food Store
700 Jersey Ave.
Times Super Market
Chicago 60657 18919W. 7 Mile Ad.
Elizabeth 07201
98-1264 Kaahumanu St.
Delroit 4821 9
Pearl Cily 96782
Indiana
New Mexico
Asia Oriental Markel
Minnesota Yonemoto Brothers
Times Super Market
2400 Yeagel Rd. 8725 4th St. N. W.
590 Kailua Rd. First Oriental Food
Kailua 96734
West Lafayette 47906
1517 Como Ave. 5. E.
Albuquerque 87114
Times Super Malket Iowa
Mmneapolls 55454
New York
5140 Kalamlnaole Hwy.
Tokyo Foods
Klm's Oriental Grocery
AC Gift
Honolulu 9682\
1005 Pierce 51.
689 N. Snelling Ave.
565 Bosion POSI Ad.
Times Super Markel Sioux City 51105
St. Paul 55104
Portchester 10573
45-934 Kamehameha Hwy.
AC Gilt
Kaneohe 96744 Kenlucky Missouri
2642 Central Park Ave.
Times Super Market
Machiko's Asian Imports & Foods King's Trading Inc. Yonkers 10710
17765. King 51.
1488 Leestown Rd. 3736 Broadway St.
Honolulu 96817
Lexington 40505 Kansas City 641 11
Apya Marl Inc.
41_75 Bowne 51.
Times Super Market
Louisiana
Maruyama Inc.
Flushing 11354
1425 Lilrha 51.
l00N.18St.
Daldo
Honolulu 96817
Korea House
St. Louis 63103
615 Orange 51.
41-54 Main St.
Times 5uper Markel
New Orleans 70130
Flushmg 11355
1173 21 st Ave.
Nebraska
Harumi
Honolulu 96816
Maryland
Oriental Market 318 W. 231 St.
Waimalu Super Markel Far East House
611 N. 27th St. Bronx 10463
Waimalu Shopping Center 33 W. North Ave.
Lincoln 68503
Katagiri ilnd Co . Inc.
Aiea 96701 Baltimore 21201
Orientill Trading Co.
224 E. 59th 51.
The Warehouse Fumi Oriental Mart 10525 J St.
New York 10022
Moanalua Shopping Center 2102 Veirs Mill Rd. Omaha 68127
Lees Oriental Gift & Food Shop
Aiea 96701 Rockville 20852
3053 Main 51.
Nevada Buffalo 14208
Idaho Massachusetts
Yuko's Gift House of Kim
Oriental Food of Las Ve<lJas
Meidiya
688 N. Holmes Ave. 852 Massachusetts Ave.
853 E. Sahara. Space E-31
18 N. Central Ave.
Idaho Falls 83401 Lexington 02173
Las Vegas 89109
Hartsdale. 10530
122
123
124
New World Oriental Food Center Co.
103-37 Queens Blvd.
Forest Hills 11375
Nippon-Do [Link].
82-69 Palsons Blvd.
Jamaica 11432
K. Tanaka Co.. Inc.
326 Amsterdam Ave.
New York 10023
Tomon
5678 Mosholu Ave.
Bronx 10471
Tsujimoto Oriental Art Gifts & Food.
Inc.
6530 Seneca
Elma 14059
North Carolina
Asia Market
1325 Buck Jones Rd,
Aaleigh 27606
Oriental Food Mart
803 N. Main 51.
Spring Lake 28390
Ohio
Dayton Oliental Foods
812 Xenia Ave.
Dayton 45410
Soya Food Products Inc.
2356 Wyoming Ave.
Cincinnati 45214
Oklahoma
Japan Imported Foods
808 N. W, 6th St.
Oklahoma City 73106
Oregon
Anzen Imports
736 N. E. Union Ave.
Portland 97232
Fred Meyers
11425 S, W. 8eaverton-Hillsdale Hwy.
Beaverton 97005
Fred Meyers
777 Kings Blvd.
Corvallis 97330
Shin Shin Market
2001 S. E. Stark St.
Portland 97214
Pennsylvania
Asia Products Corp.
226 N. 10th St.
Philadelphia 19107
Imported Food Bazaar
2000 Market St.
Camp Hill 17011
Sambok Market
1737 Penn Ave.
Pittsburgh 15222
Rhode Island
Persimmon Oriental Market
University Heights Shopping Center
Providence 02906
South Carolina
Chieko Hardy
226 Jamaica St.
Columbia 29206
Oriental Food & Gift
4252 Rivers Ave.
N. Charleston 29405
Tennessee
Orient Food Store
1513 Church 51.
Nashville 37203
Pan-Asia Food Market
1905 W. End Ave.
Nashville 37203
Park & Shop Oriental
3664 Summer Ave.
Memphis 38122
Texas
Asiatic Imports
821 Chartres
Houston 77003
Edo-Ya Oliental Market
223 Farmers Branch Shopping Center
Dallas. Texas 75234
Mihama-Ya Oriental Foods
360 Inwood Village
Dallas 75209
Nippon Daido U,S.A. Inc.
11138 W. Heimer St.
Houston 77042
Utah
Sage Farm Malket
1515 S. Main
Salt Lake City 84115
Virginia
Asia Center Discount Oriental
Groceries
303 W. 8road St.
Falls Church 22046
Super Asian Market
2719 Wilson Blvd.
Arlington 22201
Tokyo Market
5312 Virginia Beach Blvd.
Virginia Beach 23462
Washington
Beacon Market
2500 Beacon Street
Seattle 98144
Kiyo's Sea Food
3203 Beacon Slfef't
Seattle 98144
Miya Mura Food Mart
5261 University Way N. E.
Seattle 98105
Public Warehouse Mall
W. 3330 Central Ave.
Spokane 99208
Uwajimaya. Inc.
6th St. & S. King St.
Seattle 98104
Wisconsin
K. P. Oriental GlocelY & Gift
821 N. 27 St.
Milwaukee 53208
Peace Oriental Foods & Gift
4250 W. Fond du Lac Ave.
Milwaukee 53216
Canada
Alberta
Allwest Supermarket
5720 Silverspring Blvd. N. W.
Calgary
Edmonton Co-op no. 3
17010 90th Ave.
Edmonton
Woodwards
Chinook Shopping Centre
Calgary
Woodwards
3850 98th St.
Edmonton
British Columbia
Canada Safeway no. 118
1300 Lonsdale
North Vancouver
Failway Market
272 Gorge Rd.
Victoria
Mihamaya
392 Powell St.
Vancouver
Shimizu Shoten
349 E. Hastings St.
Vancouver
Woodwalds
Coquitlam Centle
Port Coquitlam
New Brunswick
House of Julie!. Ltd.
606 Albert St.
Fredericton
125
126
NOYII Scotia
Rose Marie Oriental Gourmet
1532 Queen Sf.
Halifax
Ontario
Furuya Trading Co.. Ltd.
460 Dundas St. W.
Toronto
Iwaki Japanese Food Store
2627 Yonge 51.
Toronto
Nakanishi Japan Food Store
465 Somerset St. W.
Ottawa
Yanagawa Japanese Foods
639 Upper James 51.
Hamilton
Quebec
Miyamoto Provisions
382 Victoria Ave.
Montreal
Recipe Index
iJyu no sugala-zushi. 99
bamboo-leaf-wrapped sushi, 105
bamboo shoots. seasoned, 4
barber pole sushi. 95
bean curd. freeze-dried. seasoned, 5
box sushi, 89
conger eel. 92
shrimp, 89
bl:rdock. seasoned. 6
cake. sushi, 107
chakin-zushi. 102
chiriJshi-zushi. 83
goshiki. 85
[Link]. 87
Kansai-Iu, 84
Kamo-fu. 83
mushi. 87
conger eel. seasoned. 30
devil's-tongue-jelly sushi. 105
finger sushi, 63
fox sushi. 104
fukusa-zushi. 103
ginger. pickled. 11
slices. 12
stalks. 12
hako-zushi. 89
anago. 92
89
ika no sugala-zushi. 99
inari-zushi, 104
kampyo. seasoned, 13
konnyaku-zushi. 105
mackerel stick sushi. 92
marsukasa-zushi. 100
nigirizushi, 63
nori maki. 68
anago. 71
bunsen. 80
fuji no hana. 72
IUIOi. 68
hosoi. 70
kappa. 71
kawari fulOI. 74
shikai. 79
tekka. 70
lemaki, 98
IOmoe. 77
umebachi. 76
yamaimo.71
zakuro, 81
omelet. 8
rolled. 9
thick. with ground fish meat. 11
thin,8
pine cone sushi, 100
pomegranate-shaped sushi. 81
pressed sushi, sea bream. 96
rice, sushi. 48
rolled sushi. 68
coin-pattern. 80
in comma shapes. 77
with conger eel, 71
with cucumber. 71
four seas, 79
hand-rolled. 98
inside-out thick. 74
with mountain yam. 71
narrow, 70
plum-blossom-shaped. 76
thick. 68
with tuna. 70
wisteria-shaped. 72
saba no 92
sasa maki-zushi. 105
scattered sushi, 83
with crab, 87
fiv,,-color,85
Kansai-style.84
Kanto-style. 83
steamed,87
127
128
shiitake, seasoned. 19
silk square sushi, 103
shime-dai no oshi-zushi, 96
soup, 112
bean curd and seaweed, 113
chicken and vegetable clear, 113
clam, 114
egg drop, 114
instant dear, 115
mountain yam drop, 115
stock. 5
dried sardine. 7
no. 1. 6
no, 2. 6
stuffed squid sushi, 99
stuffed sweetfish sushi. 99
suimono, 112
hamaguri no ushio-jiru, 114
kakitama-jiru, 114
sokuseki sumashi-j/ru, 115
tofu to wakame no suimono. 113
tori sasami no sumashi-jiru, 113
yamaimo no otoshi-jiru. 115
tazuna-zushi. 95
tea cloth sushi. 102
vinegar dressing, 49
~ The "weathermark" identifies this book as a production of
\JWeatherhiU, Inc" publishers of fine books on Asia and the
Pacific, Typography and book design by Meredith Weatherby
$12.95
\ . \ \
Visually appealing, flavorful, and nutritious,
sushi has long been one of the most popular foods of Japan
and is now a favorite of gourmets around the world.
Here, the ingredients and utensils for making sushi are introduced,
and the principles of sushi-making explained through
thirty-six recipes illustrated with drawings and sixteen pages of
color photographs. Included are instructions for dressing and
filleting twenty-one kinds of fish, serving suggestions, and
recipes for soups to complete an authentic sushi meal.
NEW YORK WEATHERHILL TOKYO
ISBN 0-8348-0113-6
I
I/II 1/ 90000'
9780834tmllllll