Craftsman-Style End Table * Wall Shelf with Drawers « Drill Press Storage Cart * Tenon Jig mith Vol. 22/No-127 27 oe ela Jig That’s Easy BWR esc el Cae Build in a Weekend Cyr Naren Pei for Your Gal tis nr a eT Greater Accuracy wun.woodsmith.com |Woodsmith No. 127 February, 2000 Publisher Donald B. Peschke Editor Terry J.Strohman Associate Editors Jon Garbison Vincent Ancona Art Director Todd Lambirth Senior Illustrators David Kreyling Dirk Ver Steeg Mike Mittermeier ‘CREATIVE RESOURCES Crice Dito Tk SP Desens [SPECIAL PUBLICATIONS Dea ids +r Dnt Se Lier ‘CIRCULATION “Steric DiS amnesic (Ges es rw as Tal a» Posi = [OO RON SAWDUST I is the first iste of Woownith forthe new year forthenew decade, and for the new century. I guess you could call this the millennium issue, Like most people, Tm locking for ward to all the great possiblities that this new century may bring, Butit’sa good time to take a look back as wel Back in 1979, Woodsmith started with litle ver 300 subscribers, Now ‘we're sending out about 300,00 copies every coupleofmonths. The rst ssues only had eight pages. Now each issue is fled with thirty-six pages of wood: ‘working profets tps, and techniques. Granted ifsnice to see how thenum bers have grown. But the most grat {ving thing sthat we've had the oppor ‘unity to share so much woodworking information over the vears. Speaking of opportunites, one new ning that Tm really excited about is he Internet. Now I know that the niternet ist really new. It’s been round for several years. In fact, the comsite has ben up since December 1965. Like the magazine, i out rather small — about 300 3k. Three years late, we ave over 5,000 people a week stop- ing by to update their subscriptions, ‘eview our woodworking tips, check hut al the back issues, or simply visit sith other woodworkers [think is great that so many ofyou wre visiting our site and finding the soodworking information you need. ut what really intrigues me is ll the Woodsmith possibilities that the Internet will po vide for woodworkers to keep in touch with one another For example, one of the things 1 always enjoy is getting photos from other woodworkers. It's always inter- esting to see the projects you've built, how you've changed our plans to meet your needs, or what the project looks like built rom some other type of wood. But best ofall, you often include ho tosofyour shops. And looking at other shops is something I realy enjoy. The problemis te only people who el to see the photos are the people herein thisbuilding.So Ive decided to trysomething new this year. Here's the plan, Within the next few weeks, we're goingto add anew feaure to our web site called the Woodsmith Readers’ Photo Gallery. The ideahere isto provide a place where subscribers ‘can post photos of their completed Woodsmith projects and jigs they've Dult or pictures oftheir shop, Itwillbe a fumily album of projects that all Weodsmith subsceibers can share. Now there are all sorts of technical things (most of which I don't under- stand) that have to be done for this to work. But don’t worry, the goal is to make sending in your photos as simple as possible. We'll explain all ofthat on our web site, Plus, wel give you afew ‘easytoollow pointers for making your photos look their test Hook forward to seeing what you've built and taking a peek at your shop. No, 127A LOOK INSIDE CONTENTS Features Craftsman End Table ...... 6 This traditional Crafsmen atures sturdy legs, a row of narrow spindles, lxawer. But there are also a couple of “sec aser look. Wall Shelf with Drawers Here's an buile shelf for knicl space. Build atl Using Metal Rules .......... In the Woodsmith shop, we feel that a common can’t “measure up” to a high-quality metal rule Drill Press Storage Cart This shop project rolls underneath a drill p timused space io a siorage center for drill bis, accessories, and more, Plus, there are built-in arms for supporting long pieces. Tenon Jig At first glance while it’s easy 10 build, cutting 1h", 4s, and "fy xing system that makes tenons almost automatic. Departments Tips & Techniques .............000: eee 4 Shop Notes . Sources ..... No.127 Woodsmith Wall Shelf page 15A By moking a cue (om the side of the box before itis assembled, you can create ald with alip, FROM FELLOW WOODWORKERS} Tips & TECHNIQUES 7 Cutting a Lid from a Box I savy the tip for cutting a Id from a box inissue No. 125 of Woodsmith, and I thought Fatstiarea method that I've been using for years, The neat thing about this technique isthat it cre- ates an interlocking lip between the lid and the tox, see photo in margin. sentially, my method involves cutting the lid off by cutting through the box from the inaide as well a8 the outside. Sound impos- sible? The trick isto cut half way through the walls of the box before you assem ble it.I simply raise the blade to exactly half the thickness of the pieces. Then I set my rip fence according to how wide (eep) I want the ld to be. Finally, I cut a kerf along the inside face ofall four sides ofthe box, se Fig. 1. Once the box is assem bled, all you have to do is make a second cut all around the box to separate the lid But the key is to offset the second cut from the first one to reate the “tp” of the box. Todoihis, imply move the rip fence over slightly (about 14") from is orig nal position. Then without the box is reduced by raising the blade, Imake approximately 14" once the the second cut, see Fig, 2 cut ree from thebox. Shop Note: Keep in mind Lee Sih that the overall height of Mandevile, Lousiona curkerf on Index Drilling Blocks Recently I was building a project that called for drilling a row of evenly spaced holes in a work- piece. So Teame up with simple methed of spac- ing the holes. Imade aset of U-shaped blocks that ft overa short fence attached to my drill press table, see Fig. 1. The blocks areal cutto width to match the desired spacing ofthe holes, ‘Theblocksare placed on the fence and are used to position the workriece for drilling the holes. (The block on the end is serewed ‘or clamped in place.) aol, just remove one block and slide theworkpiece dowa to drill the next hole. Repeat this l the holes Lacey, Washington Woodsmith BY ist vow , NOTE: End block ce secured to fence nore % hath of f Becks {treme caus, i ‘Sacing eFhotes No.127Table Saw Bumper Since I have a small shop, Iputall of my tools on cast ers so they can be rolled backagainstthe wallwhen not in use. The only prob lem lfoundiswhen teame to my table saw. Because the motor hangs rather low off the back of the sav, I had a hard time telling ‘when itwas going to hit the wall of my shop. ‘After banging up the wall added a “bumper to the back of my table saw base, This is nothing more than apiece of scrap that is cut justlong enough to contact the wall before the motor of my saw does, Tattached the bumper to the mobile base of my able sav, Now when 'mralling iy saw ou ofthe way, and feel wall, 1 {andthe motor housing) a as far couple of times, I came up with this solution. I simply Basement Stair Storage My shop is in my base- ‘ment, and with tools and equipment, I don’t bave a lotofroom for lumber stor. age. So in order to try to squeeze as much room as, possible out of my ln Shop space, I built lum. ber storage rack unde basement stairs, ‘Todo this, erected 2x4 posts from the basement floor to the top of the star stringers, see drawing at right Then Lattached some 1x2 cleats between these postsand the stringers. The cleats run to the backofthe riserand are screwedto the inside faces of the posts and the stringers, ‘Next, Leut some shelves out of 34)thiek plywood and placed these on top of the cleats. (didn't attach L wanted to re Finally, I labeled the depth of each shelf on post next it. The different depihsofthe shelveshelps tokeep everything sorted This way [ean store longer pieces of lumber on the lower shelves and place the shorter cutoffs on the upper shelves, View Thiel Reymond, New Hampshire Editor's Note: This tip works best if your base- ‘ment stairs are located in the ceater of the room 90 ‘you have plenty of access from the back | BA simple tumnper added tthe mobile base of sour table saw will prevent ac dental *collsons.” Screw cleats ‘posts ond sebeiringers QUICK TIP Tusea dovetail jig for making machine-cut dovetails. The problem. Thave with the igis that no matter how much 1 tighten down the wing, ruts on the hold-down brackets, my work pieces will occasionally slip sightly during the routing process. This Woodsmith throws offthe accuracy of the joint ‘My solution was to attach some selfadhe- sive sandpaper to the surface of the table of the fig as well as the hhold downclamps. This climinatesany slipping. Brent Schuarrwald ‘Sun Prate, Wisconsindar. VMO) Uy PROJECT CRAFTSMAN END TABLE This narrow end table isn’t just a traditional Craftsman project For a woodworker, it’s got a few features that are worth a closer look. A eeszne: samen elie oreo aera Se ripe ‘small, square spindles, and is joined an a ee nea eee ceca De ee See Sc re So It’s as simple and quick as gluing a notched strip into’ groove, But alt tle more on that later: ‘Another place that deserves close Jookcsthe shelé This said wood panel appears to be trapped between the legs and the stretchers on the sides, ‘What you can't see are some hidden grooves and notches. (For a peek “inside” take a look at the detail on page 7.) These provide the shelfwith a lite bt of “breathing room” when itexpands and contracts. Woodsmith ‘The last surprise is my favorite: a secret compariment. And i'sno trou ble to build, ALI did was take advan- tage of the rectangular profile of the table. Instead of making a traditional drawer, [builta longer one that has two backs. When you pull the draw. cer out, there’sa catch that stops itat the frst back. But reach underneath and release the catch and you can pull the drawer all the way out to reveal the compartment. For more fm this, see page 13. No. s eeeConstruction @ Details Be OVERALL DIMENSIONS: Strano" N6UW x 27°D x 24°H Secret omportment eaten by fe® back — square astro’ Drawer front and sides joined with routed halting Govetaih NOTE: nd table Baile with quarter sown white oak on Shelf buts eiivong Tallow shelfto Supported by expand and contract 9 sna cet Sretdhes on ses @ siisee Shadow line 1 square lege ‘apered sight ‘on bottom, shelf pane! Inside faces CUTTING DIAGRAM 13 x4" 42" Quartersavin White Oak (2.7 Bd. Ft) Sole wood __ top has wide bevel arcond Tope ‘Me eger inplace with woodscrews snd figures fasteners Spindles ft Into notched \, mortise sras Lower f “A: A cena ears nereeneree ee 2 MK Yj eer ee arenes a aback : z Z) col ees Tipe! pages | tet x 3° - 72" Maple (1.5 Sq. Fr) TU MATERIALS & SUPPLIES Legs (4) 19a x 1Ya~ 23Ve Upr. Stretchers (2) ¥4 x 4% - 22 lit. Stretchers (2) % x 3¥%4 - 22 Mortise Strips (4) Ye x3- 22 Spindles (18) ex ¥e- 128 Shelf (1) Hx 15-21% Upper Rail (1) 34x 4% - 11% Lower Rails (2) ¥ax2¥- 11% Drawer Rails (2) ¥4x2-11%4 Shelf Cleats (2) Yax%- 10% Rail Tim (2) Yax 1%4- 10% Drawer Rnvs. (4) 4x 136 - 18/6 M Drawer Guides (2) %4 x %s - 20% N Top (1) Wx 18-27 © Drawer Front (1) %4 x 25% - 10% P Drawer Sides (2) Vax 2% - 20% Q Drawer Bim. (1) VY py.-994x201% R Drawer Backs (2) ex 2¥6-9% S DrawerStop(1) %4x7&- 10% T Catch Tongue (1) Yax 1 - 4% U Catch Block (1) Vex 1 - 1% * (1) 1"-Square Brass Knob * (1) %" Nylon Guide Tape (40° rah.) + (6) Figure-8 Tabletop Fasteners *+ (12) #6 x Ye" Fh Woodscrews + (7) #8 x Wa" Fh Woodscrews + (1) #6 x34" Fh Woodscrew PAS -zaTmONeD> No.127 ‘WondsmithLike many pieces of Craftsman furniture, this table has four sturdy legs. And since most everything on the table is con- nected to these legs in one way ‘oranother, [built them frst. 16s, The first thing to dois cut the four legs (A) to size from 8/4 stock (1%4" thick), see the Leg Exploded View. ‘Next, you can begin on the os GLE mortisesfor the stretchers and 1 rails, Even though these mor {ses are centered on the thick- ness of the legs, t's still easy to ‘etconfused. (know this from experience.) And I've learned that it's worth alittle extra time to label each leg carefully, ori- enting them in the same direc- tion as they will be on the table, | 2307 see the Leg Explode View and details at right. After laying out the leg mortises, I typically set my pencil and rule aside and stand the legs up on my work- ‘bench, This way, lean double check that each pair of mortises will be the same size and wil line up. ‘When you're sure all the mortises £ have been laid out correctly, ‘you can begin work on them. I like to rough out the mortises atthe drill press, drilling overlapping holes with a Forstner or brad point bit. Then all that’ left is to spenda bit oftime back at my workbench, dean ing up the sides and squaring the ends of the mortises with a chisel. = TAPER IG + entered'on ‘ath oF leas out et round over ‘WnER, Besides the mortises, ‘each legalso has short tapers cut nits inside faces, see Exploded ‘View and detail ’b: A table saw makes quick work ofthis, see Figs. 1 and 1a, And ifyou don't already have an adjustable taper jig, a quick taper jig for this project is easy to make, see draving in margin. TAPER JIG. To make the jig, you'll Woodsmith ‘need to cut. along taper on apiece of scrap. (You can ise elthera band saw or sabre saw to do this. And don't ‘worry: Ths tapered edge doesn'thave to be perfectly straight.) After the taper has been cut,all you needto do is glue a small deat to the end. use this jg Hke an angled spacer Asyou feed theleg through the Made, theligridesin between the leg ard the fence, holding the leg at the correct. angle. (To set the rip fence, draw the taper onone ofthe Tegs. Then set the Jia and leq in place and position the fence so the blade aligns with your layout mark, see Fig, 1a) Ater cutting the first taper, rotate the leg so the other mortised face is toward the blade and make a second pass. Before moving on to the stretch- ers, the last thing to do is rout" roundover on each edge ofthe leas. ‘And to prevent the bottom ofthe les from splintering, I rounded over the bottom edges with sandpaper. No.127Stretchers ‘Now thatthe legs are basically com> plete, I turned my attention to the sides ofthe table, Te frst pieces to ‘make here are the upper (B) and lower stretchers (C), see the Stretcher Exploded View at right. ‘These pieces fitbetween the legsand willalso trap the spindles later INORTSE STRIPS. Air cutting these pieces to siz, the frst thing did was make the mortises for the spindles. This time, however, there's @ neat trick so you ean avoid drilling and cchiseling all these small mortises, Instead, you cut a groove along the inside edge ofeach sretcher and glue in anotched mortise strip (D), sce details ‘a and‘). But I go through this process step-bystep on page With the mortise strips glued in place, check to see if they're fush with the edges ofthe strtchers, (I not, simply sand them flush.) Then You can cut tenons to ft the mortis esinthe legs, see Figs 2and 2a below and detail ‘cat right. There's noth ing unusual here. Toallow for excess ‘elue, the tenons should be cut Ys! shorter than the depth of the mor tises And it'sa goodieato sneak up onthe size ofthe tenons fora snug it RAL GROOVES. At this point, there's fone more thing to do to the upper stretchers (B). Each one gets a pair of grooves on its inside face, which ‘you can see in detal'c. Later, when the tableis assembled, these grooves will hold drawer rails and runners. ‘unves. Now the upper stretchers ‘canbe set aside, but there’ sill some ‘work to do on the lower stretchers ‘These stretchers (ard later the lower rails) have a gentle curve that’s eut No. 127 Lower “Ostrerener i, nore: re glued ito STRETCHER Seekers before EXPLODED VIEW iongare cue ore: Setches wut rom See along their bottom edges, see the Stretcher Exploded View. ‘The firs step here is to la out the ‘curve with a flexible straightedge (a strip of Y' hardboard) anda couple ‘of blocks of wood, see photo below. ‘Then you can carty the blank over to the band saw (or use your sabre ‘saw) and cutthe curve, staying to the waste side of the line. After a little ‘Woeedsmith Grooves for Grower rails and runners sanding to remove any rough spots, the lower stretchers will be complete. AA this point, it would be really tempting to ue thelepsand stretet- cers together. But its not quite time for that yet. Before the sides can be glued together the spindles still ned to bemade to itbetween the stretch crs. and the groove that will hold the lower shelf has to be cut, ‘A When drawing the curve on each lower stretcher, Lused a flexible sraighedge, pushing it against a ‘couple of poinced scraps that are clamped tothe workpiece.10 Side Assemblies To complete the side assemblies, there are just afew things to do. First, between the stretchers, there’s arow of square spindles that still need to be made, see Spindle Exploded View. Then some grooves (and notches) will be cut to hold the shelf. ‘STRETCHERS. The first thing to do is cut the spindles (E) to size, see the margin drawing at left. You'll need. eighteen of these '4/"x 14" pieces, but 's a good idea to cut a couple extra to help set up the cut for the tenons. After cutting the spindles to kength, the only thing to do is cut the tenons ‘on the ends, see Figs 3 and 24, The goal here is to make sure they'll fit between the upper and lower siretch- ‘ers when the side assemblies are put ‘together later. So when testing the fit ofthese tenonsin the mortises, Tike todryassembk the spindles, siretch- ers,and legs tomake sure everything is going to fit together. SHELF & GROOVE. Before assembling the sides of the table, grooves still need to becutin the lower stretchers to hold the shelf, These grooves (and ‘some notches in the legs) are the ‘secret to allowing the solid wood shelf panel to expand and contract without splitting o leaving gaps ‘The key to keeping these grooves “hidden” is to make sure they match the final thickness of the shelf (F). So I giued up this panel first, see Spindle Exploded View Then after the shelf had been planed and sanded flat, 1 ‘cut the groove in the lower stretchers, ‘see Figs. 4 and 4a below, (I used the table saw with a dado blade.) NOTCHUG. Now tat the grooves are cut in the stretchers, you want to ! a & NOTE: Give yp shelf nasand to final thickness Before cutting grooves “extend” these grooves into the legs by cuting a notch in each, This isn't ‘a big deal. I dry assembled the legs and stretchers one last ime and trans- ferred the size and position of the grooves to the legs, see Fig. 4. With the notches laid out, they can ‘be cutjust like mortises. This means ‘most ofthe waste can be removed at the dril press by drilling overlapping holes 74" deep. Then you can chisel o clean up each notch, ito the ayout lines, see Fig. 4b. EXPLODED VIEW SPINDLE nore: Side assembles | END VIEW Ave fence ASSEMBLY. Now the sides ofthe table are ready to beassembled, There are Guite few pieces in these assemblies toline up, Butatleastyou dont have tomess with gue when sandwiching, the spindles between the stretchers They'll be held secure when the legs are glued to the stretchers, After the sides are assembled, the ie is ready to be cut to final size. The important hing is that this panel iscuttolengthio itn the grooves and notches in theside assemblies. Lay out natch ine ‘hom groove nstrather — fers setermines weathot ‘overlapping holes nd dean up with chisel Woodsmith No. 127 glued together after groaves and notches are (Cotterell 00 Fig.Rails Toconnectthe side assemblies, there are three differentsized rails: an upper ran bac, two lower ras, and two drawer raisin front, se the Ral Exploded View at right. Isarted by cutting he upper (6) and the two lower rails (H) to size. ‘These pieces are nearly identical, the only difference being that the upper rail is quite a bit wider. Next, lcut the tenons on the tails see Fig. 5. Like te tenons.on the stretchers, these are slightly shal: lowe than the mortises in the legs. And for aglovelike it, youl want to ‘seas up onthe final size. ‘Aer the tenons are cut, the upper rail can be set aside until But the two lower rai still need ait tle work. First, I cut a gentle curve along the bottom edge of each, see Rail Exploded View. ‘Next, [cut a small rabbet on the top, inside edge of each rail, which ‘you can see in detail‘c: This rabbet ‘reais smal shadow fine between the ral and the shelf This way, ifthe shelf doesn't it tight to the rail ori their top surfaces don't end up per fectly sh, this shadow ine will make the anwanted gaps or shoulders much less noticeable DRAWER RAILS The last two rails ere ate the drawer opening in front. The drawer rails (I) fitia the grooves in the upper stretchers with tongues, which are created by cutting simple rabbets, see detail 6’ above, Then before assembling the table, you need to drill two centered holes: a coun- tersunk shank hole nthe top rl for securing the top later and an access hole in the bottom rail so you can No. 27 brit counter- reach the screw with a screwelriver TABLE ASSEMBLY. AX this point, the table can be glued together. An easy ‘way I came up with to do this was to «lamp one side assembly down to the bench, as you can see in the photo below. Then I set the rails and shelf in their mortises and grooves. How ever, when standing the shelf in its groove, don'tapply any glue —itmu be free to expand and contract. Next, added glue to the exposed tenons Woodsmith sexi” — | | wroosterens and tongues, carefuly slid the other side assembly over the tenons, ané Grew it down with camps, While the glue on the table was drying, Leuttwo cleats (J) to ft under the shelf and hold it in place, see detalls‘e’ and’ abore. I screwed the cleats tothe lower rails with a couple screws, but the shel is held in place withonly one centered serew on each end. (This way, the shetf can expand ‘outward into the groovesin the sides) “unk shan ‘ole for BSscrowr 0) Drawer alls ee RAIL EXPLODED Sraes joie ine, ee seaceul'c Lowen ore: fa Shesive @ ssenbly ferdaniy alls tue fata back of gs lis easiest ue the table together while i’ laying on its side, And when fieting the second side assembly over the tenons on the rails, apply a ight «oat of gue to the mortises, orthe gue will drip out and make a mess‘TOP EXPLODED VIEW Drawer & Top Right now, the table is an open frame, which isthe best time to add allthe pieces inside thatsupport the drawer and allow it to open and close ‘smoothly, see Runner Exploded View. RAIL TRIM, However, the first pieces worked on don’t actually support the drawer Since the drawer rails sit behind the front legs, I added some rail trim (K) to “extend” the railsfor- ‘ward between the front legs, as you can see in the Runner Exploded View cand detail ‘a’ at right. ‘DRAWER RUNNERS. With the rail trim _giued in place, the next pieces toadd ‘we the drawer runners (L), seethe ‘Runner Exploded View. Actually there are four runners: two on the bottom to support the drawer and two ontop that keep it from tipping asit's pulled open, see detail V above right, ‘The runners are cut to length to fit behind the drawer rails, And rabbets cat along the edges create tongues that fit into the grooves, see detail ‘b: DRAWER GUIDE. After gluing the run nersin place, Ladd two guides (M) to keep the drawer centered side-o- side, see Fig. 6. These pieces aren't flush with the insides of the legs, as youmight expect Instead, they sick ‘out Yio" on the inside so they can keep the drawer from rubbing againstthe legs, see Fig. 6a. (The drawer’s nar- rower than the opening. It's sized to. ‘end up with a Y{o' gap on each side.) nore: Cutten to fieteween ty ee oy hae Jape also added a strip of nylon glide tape tothe top ofthe two bottom run- ners, The tape allows the drawer to ‘open and close smoothly, but more important, it lits the drawer off the F top. comp 9 sy fide ontence| 4. ais trim so it won't create wear marks, T0P. Now the top (N) can be added, and it’s just as easy as it looks in the ‘Top Exploded View. All you need to dois glue up a solid wood pancland suppor. about deat to) ri 21a. hole i deep (with Ferstner oe Woodsmithcutit to size. (toverhangs the front and back 124" and the sides 154") To give the top panel a “lighter” look. I beveled its bottom eddges, see eta ‘a at the bottom of page 12. This can be done a couple ways. Fcut the bevel on the table saw, with the blade tied about 15°, see Fig. 7. Butyou can also rout the bevel with a handheld router and a shop-made jig. (Turn to page 1d to see how this jig works) ext, softened the top edge of the top panel with a Ae! chamier. Then it in be mounted to the table with fig: ‘ure fasteners and woodscrews, see the Top Exploded View and Fig. 8 DRAWER. All tha’ et now isto built the drawer, ee the Drawer Exploded View. Thisis a deep drawer. So deep that reaching all the way nto the back ‘wouldn't be very convenient. This go me to thinking wha’ a great place would make for a secret compart ment, see the box below. ‘The drawer has a front (0) sides (P) joined with routed blind dovetails, see Drawer Exploded Viev and details’a'and"b! And aply wood bottom (Q) fis into a shallow _groove cut in these pieces To complete the drawer, added to backs (R). The secret compart ment is simply the space between them. The backs sit on top ofthe bot tom panel and have tongues that fit into dadoes cut inthe sides, ‘0b05 & EDS. With the drawer assem bied, there are still afew odds and tends to work on, First, centered a ‘nob on the drawer front, see detail ‘a'inthe Drawer Explded View. (The knob was bright brass, but I dark hed it with an antiquing solution.) And to position the drawer flash with DRAWER ® EXPLODED VIEW NorE-ront spe eandiges © see aie 26 Tow" aorrom Lae Ss @ wos brass knob RON view wen ‘pRonT eo potted, Sats [coro | aeegee || a Bt se a Ee re roneve ot thee) 4 : ge 6x4 th woadscew 1 eo domeay — [I (cere the front of the ral trim (K), added astop (S), see Fig. 9b. Finally, ladded a drawer eitch, see Fig. 9 and box below. This prevents. the drawer from coming all he way ‘out before the secret compartment is exposed. The catch ismade rom two pieces: /'thick catch tongue (1) anda thick, wedge-shaped catch a La a dae block (U), which starts out square. ‘To angle the tongue, I sanded a taper on the block, removing #4” on ‘one end. But it’s easier to sand the taper after the block is glued to the tongue. Then the catch can be glued and serewed through the bottom panel and into the back of the secret compartment, see Fig. 9a. Creating a secret compartment was easy, 1 simply built the drawer with two backs, see left photo. The trick was figuring out hhow to stop the drawer before the com- partment was exposed. The solution was ‘two-piece catch, see right photoand Fig. ‘above. To gain access tothe secret com- partment, simply press up on the flexible ‘tongue as you pullout the drawes, 7 WoedsmithTips FROM OUR SHOP SHOP NOTES Bevel Jig ‘Typically, Luse a table saw ‘oeutabevellkethe one on theend tabletop Butthere aretimeswhenit’s impractical or per haps even unsafe to stand a workpiece on ede on the table saw to cut a Devel (particulary iit a large workpiece). In these instances, you can make the same bevel using a hand- held router anda simple The bevel canbe routed with a straight bit. Shop Note: The fute length of the bit should be long enough to cut the fill bevel inthe case ofthe end able, thisis 174" long. Sen view ‘it quord cotangle z onaage fenceand | \ Fepwe bieguard eis ee Senne eee = 416 CONSTRUCTION. The ji censists of four pieces: a fence, bit guard, auxiliary base, and a handle, see drawing below. To build the jg, start with the fence and bit guard, First, cut a notch at the center of the fence to provide clearance for the router bit. Then glue the bit guard and fence together. To make this Je work, simply cut an angle along the fence and bit guard that matches the bevel you need on your workpiece, see detail ‘When you add he aux iary base, it angles your ‘on fence stare with alight eat on ist pass ottam side oP workprece ae f Workpiece NaS ‘A Working om the bottom side of the top of the end tele ths jig and hand-held router make it easy to create a beveled edge with usta straight bi. router to match the bevel ‘Theauxiliary base issimply attached with a couple serews into the fence. Finaly, glue and serew a hrandle to the fence. STING BETH. Since this iz is designed to cutthe bevel in several passes, you adjust the depth ofcutby pivoting the auxiliary base, see detail'c. The arched slot allows the router to swing downto the required depth before locking itin postion with screw. USING THE 6, To use the i tocutabevel,startwith the depth set shallow. Then increasethedepth gradual- ly until your bevel iscom> plete,seedetail'b, 0 ® Auwiiony ay ase. ar washer” Wesher waxriee Pare u ate ae ie lee | Yon sare = Eo wae wae Ee Parry Weedon NawMortise Strips Instead of making individ- the notches create mortis- ual mortises one at a time es for the spindles. forthe spindles in the end But instead of trying to table, used a different cut the notchesin narrow, approach. First I cut a individual strips, I started ‘groove ononeedgeofeach witha wide blank cutto the stretcher. Then I glued in same length asthe stretch- "mortise trip.” ers (22"). Then after the GROOVES. Each groove is notches are cut the blank. cutwith adado bladein wo will be ripped into strips. passes, flipping testreteh- (The thickness ofthe blank. er end-forend between isthe sameastthe depth of passes to ensure that the the grooves — ) groove will becentered on NOTCHES. Adado blade can the thickness of the work- be used tocut the notches. piece, see Figs. Landa, The trick is to keep the MORTISESTRIS. As the notches evenly spaced. To name implies, the mortise do this, I useé a simple stripsarejustnarrowstrips indexing jig. ‘of wood with notches cut To make thejig, started in them, When the strips by attaching an auxiliary are glued intothe grooves, fence to the front of my toventer groove iter gauge. Then I cut a dado through thecenter of my blankand theauxiliary fence, see Fig. 2. ‘To keep the notches evenly spaced, I glued an index key into the notch in the auxiliary fence, see Fig. 24, Then I readjusted the fence so the key was 44" fom the edge ofthe dado blade, see Figs. 3and 3a, Next, I cut four more notches on one side of the center notch, see Fig, 4,To do this, I simply placed each newly cut notch over the key to cut thenextone, ‘Then after cutting the notches on one side, I turned the piece around and cut four more notches onthe other side ofthe cen- ter notch, following ‘the ssame procedure. Note: You should end up with a total of rine notches. RRRING. To make sure the mortises on the upper and lower stretchers jine up after the strips are ripped and glued in place, I drew areference line on one end of the blank before ripping thestrips, see Fig. 5. Then T made sure the marks ‘were allt the same end of thestetchers when gluing them into place. ‘Shop Note: Wher gluing the strips in place, use a spaving amount of adhesive toavotd geting any shu themortises, 1 RST shift fence ‘oleftiee ‘shite fence Gi ‘econo: ee ae ch END view er nstch NOTE: Use gle sparingly16 WEEKEND PROJECT WALL SHELF WITH DRAWERS _ The drawers on this wall shelf add some handy storage space. And don’t worry about the extra weight — the unique hanging system can handle it. W ith many projects, about the time Tm brushing on the finish, curios: ity gets the better of me. [begin won- dering what the project would've looked like iff buit it differently — used different wood, made aminor design change, or applied different finish. Most times, my questions go unanswered, But this project went together so quickly that I didn't stop with one shelf. Infact, built three of these shelves with drawers, Three shelves may sound a bit excessive, but I won't have any trou He finding ahome for each. The first two I built with cherry and can work as apair or as individual shelves, see Motos, One has three drawers, while the narrower one has only two. ‘The lst shelf was slated to end up in the bathroomand have moreof a “rustic” look, which you can see in the box on page 19. It was built with rine, and I “roughed it up” abit with sandpaper to give ita soft, worn bok. ‘Then itwas stained, and just the case and drawers were painted. Regardless of what wood or finish you choose, this shelf (with its draw- A Ifthe three-dhawer version of his project is too long angie ers) is heavier than mos. So to hang CASE CONSTRUCTION itsecurey, used apiece ofaluminum The shelf begins asa case with three angle 1 purchased at a local hard openings, see the Case Exploded ware store. One side ofthe angle is View atthe top of page 17. The long serewed to the wall, The other side top (A) and bottom (B) are joined by slips intoa pocket builtinto the back wo shortends (C)and two dividers ofthe shelf Allinall,i'sasimpleand (D), But beforecutting these pieces sturdy procedur to size, [should point out a couple of hore: Behse ofshelt sininan ‘ou can easily reduce the sie ofthe shelf and make it position mounting with jue two drawers. Orher than a few dimension holes to aig ‘ude neal changes, i's built the same, see drawing at vg. Woodsmith ‘TWO-DRAWER ‘WALL SHELF No. 127 o‘CASE EXPLODED VIEW things. Firstthe top and dividers are ant ae 44 narrower than the bottom and ~ ‘sluminum angle ends. Ths creates part ofthe pocket in the back for the aluminum angle, Also, before cutting the ends and dividers to size, you should take a Took atthe grain direction on these pieces. Itruns up and down, not front toback. This way, ll the case pieces will expand and contract the same with changes in humility Toputthecase together, Ichose a tongue and groove join, see Fig. ta For this joint [always cut the groove first, see Fig.l. This way, [ean sneak up on the height of the rabbet that forms the tongue so it ts perfectly. Next, to eld the dividers, leuttwo dadoes across the top and bottom, see Exploded View and detail ‘a! above. Here it'sa good idea io sneak upon the sizeof the dadoes,so your ‘ividers it tght without any gaps. ‘The las thing to do before the case ‘can be assembled is to cuta wide rab- beton the top face ofthe top (A), see Fig. 2, (goin, this part ofthe pock- etthat the angle will ft into.) Todo this, used my table saw with a tall auxiliary fence, see Figs. 2 and 2a, But be sure to check the ft of the sine ek © eat 0 Ae should be flush with (or slightly oe below) the shoulder ofthe rabbet. Aer the rabbetis cut, the ease can ‘ be ghied together. This is pretty je“ straightforward. Just make sure all [2 the pieces end up flsh at the front. HOT ary seplces ut from to Sian cxectong Seek nels direction vers) cs MATERIALS, SUPPLIES & CUTTING DIAGRAM (THREE-DRAWER SHELF) A Case Top (1) ax 6%-38 E Shelf (1) YUx8%-41% | False Fronts (3) Vax 3- 12% B Case Bottom (1) %4x7-38 F Drawer FriBk. (6) ¥8x2%- 11% + (3)34"-dia, Knobs © Case Ends(2) 34x7-4 G Drawer Sies (6) %4 x 27% - 6% + ()2"%2" Aluminum Angle 37%" long D Case Divders (2) % x 6% -3 H Drawer Btmn. (3) Ya py. -6% x 11% + (8) #8x 1%" Fh Woodscrews ie x5* -96" Chery (3.3.84 Fe) MLL ‘ALSO NEEDED: One 12° x24 pce of W plywood No. 127Shelf While the glue onthe case was dry- ing, I began work onthe shelf panel that will be attached tothe top ofthe ‘ease, see Shel Exploded View. ‘The shelf (E) sartsout asa 3f"thick glued-up panel just lke the ease Then it's eut to fina ize ‘sitwilloverhang the frontand ses ofthe case 11) see detail’ at right. ly shelfended up 8144114") Rather than leave the panel square, decided to “tighten” the ook ofthe shelf witha large bevel on the bot tom edge and asmall chamier onthe top. The bevels" wide and reduces the thickness ofthe edge to1f.sce detail’ atright To create the wide bevel, you have a couple options. Ieutiton the table saw, a8 shown in Figs. 3 and 3a, But with this method, the shelf stands pretty all when cutting the Devel on the ends, $0 for extrasupport, [clamped a scrap piece to the panel thatwillride along the top oftherip fence. ‘The other method you can use to create the bevel on the shelf requires a handheld router, afi and astraight bt, IM describe this optional procedure more filly on page 1. When the bevel i ct, a3" chamfer can berout- ed around the top edge, sec details above. Then the shelf can be attached to the case. To do this simply glued the two together, making sure the shelf was flush with the back and centered sideto-side. Shop Tip: I wanted to make sure theback ofthe assembly stayed tush, so fied the case onitsback when 2ing and clamping the selfn ace ‘AUMINUN ANGLE. AC this point, cut the 2!x2" aluminum ange to length to it into the pocket in the back, see Shelf Exploded View: Tis piece does not have to fit ght. In fac, Teut my angle about "shorter than the open- HANGING THE WALL SHELF A To hang the shelf, frst screw the anal into wall studs with 3” screws, making sure the angle is level 1A. Next the shelf i sid over the dangle. (There's a pocket in bral ofthe shelf.) Three screws lock the two tgether 8 ‘SHELF EXPLODED VIEW Toles toa 2x2" ‘ath st aluminum “in wall ‘gle rim corners co make shelf suerte install atte ladle tilted about 1@" Keep angie ‘ichntn pack ofeate ing (71" long). And to make iteas- ierto sidein when hanging theshelt, clipped the ends ofthe angle. Next, drilled some shank holes in the top of the shelf and the alu- minum angle, see Fig. 4. To do this, | temporarily set the angle into the pocket, flush with the back ofthe case, ‘Woodsmith see Fig, 4a, Then I drilled a hole through the shelf and into the angle. But don’t try to drill all the way through the angle while it's buried in the shelf, you might end up drilling too far into the top ofthe case. Instead, it's better to remove the alurninum, angle to complete the holes. No. 127Drawers Before mounting the shelto the wal I made the three drawers tofitin the cease openings, see Drawer Exgloded View at right. Each isa simple box Joined with ongueand dado joints. Then a fase iront is “SS axed to cover the end grain, When building a drawer with tongue and dado joins, t's the front and back pieces that get the tongues. (Mhe drawer wil be stronger this way.) But this also means they have tobe cut shorter than the draw- er opening to alow forthe side pieces. Tobegin, cut the front (F), back. 9, and sides (G) to size so thedraw er would fitits opening witha Yo" gap_ ‘on each side and 1s" at the top, see Drawer Exploded View. And as for the tongue ane dadlo joint, there's a 'Yioide kerf cat on cach side piece first, see deta ofthe front and back piew plerabbet william "thick tngue. hen on the ends DRAWER EXPLODED a vEW knob paise Fron texte toodscrew ore: oowe stock and i'plywoo gorTom sin Sh ~~ (—, Before assembling the drawer, a FALSE FRONT. The '/!th fronts (Pare cut" talerandlonger Finally, alter applying a few evats of 'Vp'plywood bottom (H) needsto be added, It fits into a ¥4"leep groove than the opening, see Exploded View. Before screwing brass knob to cach drawer. Then | them to the front of the drawers, I lnung the shelfon the wal, see mar- thatiscutin each piece, see detal’b’ ‘Then after the bottom was: I glued the drawer together: A RUSTIC-LOOKING SHELF When building the last ofthe three shelves, Twas after some: thing that looked completely diferent from the first to, 1 wanted to build an “old” shelf — one that looked like it had Deen around for a few genera tions (and had a couple “gen- tations” offnish on t aswel ‘This last shelf was built oxt of pine, and as with any pro- fect the first thing I did when finishing it vas to grab some sandpaper. But I wasn't going to remove seratches, Instead, 1 *hit’all the chamters and cor- ners so there were no sharp edges. The shelf should end uplookingrounded and worn, Next, Those a dark, oil based stain and wiped itonthe project Here, Ida try to pre- vent the stan from blotehing, With a distressed finish, dark and lightareasare no problem. (Lalso picked out some wood No, 127 ) Afier staining this shelf, a coat of milk paine was ‘applied jus tothe case and drawers. Laver, i was par- tially removed by sanding. routed a4" chamfer around the front gin photos on page 18 k false face of each, see detail'c’ above, Drawer anil finish, l added a small antique knobs forthis shelf and stained these dark, as well) ‘On top of the stain, I added a coat of paint to the ‘case and drawers (The top panel and drawer knobs only e accat of stain, for now.) But here Td recommend you Here, I chose milk paint go slow With distressing, less because ofitsslightly “grainy” is sometimes more. Of course texture. Butsince milk paintis if you do remove more paint awaterbesed finish, youllwant than you want, all you have to tomakessure the oitbasedstain do is brush on another coat. hhas had plenty of time todry. Finally, since there's no paint Otherwise the paintwill*bead on the top panel, I applied up"whenyou brush iton. coat or two of finish to give it After the paint has dried, I some protection. [ happened did a litle more sanding to to apply a spray lacquer, like expose the tain in places (and Deft, but a wipe-on oil finish ‘even some bare wood in spots). _ would also work fin. WoodsmithMetal rides come in several lengths ‘and have different graduations, but high-guaiey ides USING METAL RULES It might not be the first tool you think of, but it’s probably one of the first you pick up when working on a project — and one that’s used the most. asked to list my favorite applying a finish, my rules ‘in my shop: a handy 6“long all share some several things in common, ¥ common featires. Whenyoupickupa good eaten Assit 2 metal ule, twill ave acer- tain het tt, and isis one clue asto whatitsmade of ‘Ametal rule will either be made of aluminum or steel, ‘An aluminum rule will be much lighter and “Softer,” anditcan be nicked orbent relatively easly. However, ust because a rule is steel doesn't neces- sarily mean it’s of the best quality. It could be made with a steel that'srelatively soft These are diestamped, and again, they'reeasierto nick or bend than a steel rule that’s gone through a hardening process, How can you tell the dif ference? Simply run your finger along the edges. A tempered steel rule will Ihave sharp edges because it’s been ground square see top photo on page 21 ‘The difference is more than just durability I also means a little more accu- racy. The reason hes to do with the markings. The ‘markings should run right upto the edge of the ruler not, ill be easier make a mistake when transfer- ring a dimension to your workpiece. (Tl go into thie aitle more on page 22 On a rule with rounded edges, the marks end up set slightly " back from ci the edge, On a ruler that'sbeen ground square, the marks run right to the ecdges, see lower photo at right on page 21 How the marks were sudded tothe rules anoth- cr clue to its quality Arule you typically find at an office supply store or on an inexpensive combination square will have markings that have been printed on the metal. The problem with this is that these marke ings will rub off with wear —miakingitharder towork ‘with the more you use it, see lower photo on page 21. On the other hand, a good quality rule will have clean graduations that are aciceiched into the steel Not only will the markings last longer, they're usuallytic finer than printed tacking, Aad at can e @ make a big difference when etry tly outa mca art One tel ako . inagood ruleisanorglare, satin finish. This finish males the rule eater fo read, which bs especialy important when Tn wok ing tera (Pas ths seal fin mats terete more Abus When bok igtera bight tle, Talo ond one at aks thebest ase of alfour edges Tals one whereal our cgescan be Sis he wentaerting To. Inthe pst, Ie used 2 tule dened for a chin One edge was metic which never sd a anti ce had atin, wie 90 VW tovead veal secu that have devil ad ton (ach ch divided In my workshop, the threerules Tuse are rigid, Dutflexible rules are also available, see photos at right. In fat, a couple of the guys around here ‘swear by them, Flexible niles ar like idrules except they're thinner, so they bend eas- fly. One immediate advan- tage to a thin rules that when reading the rule, into ten segments), which ets really confusing. So the key is to fip the rule over and check each edge to make sure the gradua- tionsare the ones you want towork with, There's also afeature on one of my rules really ike. ithas two 4a" scales on the “front” face — one scale reads leftioright (ike most Aluoninuem vs. Steel. A metal rds either rules), andthe ther reads stamped out of alumina or soft steel (lf rule) or Fightto-lettseethe center made from more durable tempered steel with edges that (22) rule atthebottom of have been ground square (right rule) page 20. This may seem minor, but the rightiolef scale makesit much more convenient 0 measure trom the rip fence to the table saw bade, dontthave ‘work backwards with All this may sound like alefttoright scale, EET pe ising end fate emis 8 9 — which translates into a better finished projec “A Printed us. Etched Graduations. The graduations Note: For sources of oma rule cam either be etched int the metal (upper metal rules ofallsizes and rule) or printed on che surface (ower rule). Etched varieties, see page 35 ‘markings are considerably finer and will not wear off Ca aay ~ A A thin flexible rule can still be used a shorter than the length of the nule. youcan layittlaton the workpiece smaller than the rule, see leftphoto because it’s notthiclenoughtocre- above. Also, you can use this type ate much ofan offset. The marl of rule to make measurements ings are closer to the wood than along a curve, see right photo they are with a rigid rule, 9 above. In fact, it can beused as flex- Aflexible rule has a few other ible straightedge when drawing ‘benefits worth mentioning, Forone curves, (You can actualy flex these thing, itll fit into openings that are rules into fairly tight circles.) ‘Woodsmith ‘Measuring along cure i no prob- len witha flexible re. I conforms easily 1 both gene and tight cures. ‘There are, ofcourse, a couple of. drawbacks. Since flexible rulesare made for metalworking, metric and. ‘decimal graduations are common. And you probably won't find a flex- ible rule at your local hardware sore or even a woodworking store. (Por sources, se page 35.)Working With Rules For accurate metalruleissosimple,it One way to prevent this reading, hole Ametal ru ple,it One way to prevent thi meee seems almost “foolproof.” _ offset is to simply hold the But over the years I've ale onits edge, see Fig. picked up a few tricks to Holding the rule like this make sure I'm using mine brings the markings flush as accurately as possible. with the workpiece and ACCURATEMARIS. One-com- eliminates any error. mon “mistake"is to draw Another place where an offset mark —one that error can creep’ doesn'tline up exactly with aligning the end ofthe rule the increment marking on exactly withthe edge ofthe the rule. Unless you look workpiece. Many times, 1 edgeofthe workpiece, see So like tousea stop block Thickness of ule an cause oft is when ‘When measuring at the rule from directly won't even try ‘drawing in margin, instead, see Fig.2.Justhold the thickness of @ overhead when reading it, For instance, when I'm You can also use this _ascrap of wood up against board, line up one thetthicknessofa rigid rule using my thickness planer method to measureacross the board. Then push the edge withthe I” can causeaslighterror,see to plane a board, say from the width of a board, but rule against the block for markon the me. Fig. ta. Itmaynotseemlike 5/"thick to 14", Tusean old don't be surprised to find an accurate measurement. ‘much, butitcan mean the trick, I pull my 6" rule out that your workpiece ends Another thing to watch difference between a per of my apron pocket and up exactly 1" too narrow, for ismeasuring the depth fectfitand onethat'sjusta centerthe 1" mark (notthe —Iseasy to forgettoadd that ofa groove, rabbet, or dado litte sloppy or tight edge of the rule) on the extra inch when warking, that you've cut with a dado Groeve < cut ith ad Blase So blade a suteon Te align rule with edge, eee Sotto of groone ‘bute aglnat stop block da CeO aU Lg Istherea “right way to mark fewmarkingtips. Forinstance, _Also, when working with a me a white “china” pencil 0 workpiece fromarule ortape when marking a board for a dark-colored wood, find apetr work with, see center photo. measure? Some of the folks cut, it’ often a good idea to cil that will make marks you (They'reavalable atart stores) around here make a single markthewasteside ofthe line eansce. When workingon one And finally, ifyou use a pen: Sraightline, while othersmark withan“X'seeleft photo, This walnut project, Dave (our cil for marking, you can a “V" on the workpiece. I willensureyoucut to the cor- senior illustrtor) got tired of remove the lines easily with recently asked why, trying to rect (waste) side oftheline. watching me squint and gave alcohol later, see right photo. find out the reason behind each method, But those 1 talked to just admitted, “It’s how I was taught to doit” ‘ ‘However, many also added, ( thatitsimportant thatyou do itcarefully. Regardless of how you have learned to “make your mark,” a sloppy line will = resultin sloppy work, ‘Mark waste. itcan be easy t0 White pencil To make easy- Erase marks. To “erase” pen- When talking with others cuton the “good” side of line, to-see marks on dark wood cil marks from a board, simply about this, also ran across a _so/mark the waste with an "X” use a white “china” pencil wipe them off with alcohol. y 2 Woodsmith No.127blade. Many dado blades leave tiny ridgesat the cor- Q srite dee Stat hold the rule parallel to the . edges, where it could give am inaccurate reading, see Pe Fig. 3a. Instead, langle the . rule across the dado so it . spansany ridges, see Fig 3 Here's one final caution, | When seting arp fence or laying out dadoes, is best tobe as consistent as pos- the fence initially with my a workpiece quickly. until the 6” mark tines up sible, Switching back and tape and then checked it Sey you have a drawer withthe opposite edge of forth between your metal later withthe rule — and front that’s 3%:"-wide, andthe piece."Then mark each rule and ape measure can ened up with slighty dif youneedto find thecenter inch onthe board set you into rouble ferent measurements. forthe drawer pulls Forget MEASURING ROUND OBLECTS. Tmust admit 've been NDING CENTER. Besidles the math. Simply position When it comes to metal ofthis myself. Once accurate measurements, 1 the“zero" endoftheruleat _rules,oneofthe lst things . Iwas left scratching my also use my rules to find oneedge ofthe workpiece, you right think of mea- head forafewminstesafter thecenterofafaceoredge see Fig. 4.'Then angle the suring would be round checking a fence setup. I ofaboard.Onerulefown rule so a number easily objects. Buta rule is actu was positive it wassetright hasalhandy-centerfinding divisible by two (like 4") _allypretty handy when you the first time, but the rule scalewith “zero” inthemic- lines up with the opposite need to finda diameter ofa rowshoweditwasslightly dle of the rule. However, edge ofthe piece, Divide _roundobject You can make «ff Finally, figured outthe you don't need this feature this number by two (2), a simple caliper with a woblem.Thad set = tofindthecenterof and you'll have the exact siraight rule and a pat of CSP center. I's almost oo easy. square blocks, see Fig. 6. Use block, Aneat litle twiston this To nd the diameter of eee is to divide a board into small, round object, place equa parts,aswhenlaying _itagaist the rule and butt cout equally-spaced dove- the blocks up agains’ the tails see Fig 5. Agzin, set part and the edge of the the"zero” onone edge, but rule Side the rule over so thistime when angling the one block ines up with one rule you'll want to go one _oftheinch marks and then increment higher. So for simply read the diameter five dovetails, angle therule on therule. OY STRAIGHT SHOOTING Rulesean be more than just measur’ to pull t fat, or I may even have to phot. Itshandy for checkingto make ing tools. They also serve as handy joint the edges ofthe pieces again. sure the outieed table is fush with straightedges. Forinstance, thefirst An 18" rule isalsolong enough to the tips of the knives. If not, [know time Ipick upa board, Iwanttocheck be helpful atthejointertoo, seeright —thejointer isin need ofa litle tuneup. | to see how flat its face is. So 'simply hold the piece up to the light and run . my 6" rule along the face. Wherever there's light peaking under the rule, the board ist flat, and I'l need to . spend a litle time atthe ointer. “This same technique works when . suing up a panel, se let photo. As | 9 Baer es my rule so I can use it to check the Check panel. isyourglued-up panel Check jointer. A metal rules handy flatness ofthe panel. [Fits cupped, 1 lat? Run a rule across it and look for for checking thatthe jointersoutfeed know I have to readjust the clamps gaps. which indicate cupping, table is aligned with the knives. No. 127 WoodsmithSHOP PROJECT Without taking up any additional floor space, this handy mobile cart provides plenty of storage. A Anentra-deep drawer with a slid height of your dril press, the cart ing rey provides plent can easily be roled out ofthe way. space for dri bis and accessories MATERIALS & SUPPLIES ‘A ToplBottom (2) %aply.-20x24 Lb TrayFrtBack (2) Yex 28-7! + (12) 46x 1" Fh Woodscrews B Sides (2) ply. -20427% _M Tray Sides 2) Wx2Wh-11M%e + (2) 18" Drawer Guides wiScrews Divider (1) 34 ply - 13% x23._N Tray Bottom (1)Yehdbd. - 7Yex 11% + (1) Diawer Pull wScews | D Back (1) Yahdbd. -23x 27% — O Support Panels (2) % ply.- 14x28% + (2) %" x2" x2" Alum. Angle 14” long) | |e TopCover(1) _ Yehdbd.- 20x24 P. Support Covers (2) Ye hdbd.- 2x14 + (6) #8 x 1%" Fh Sheet Metal Screws F Shelf (i) 3h ply, - 13% x 22%» (16) #8 x 2" Fh Woodscrews + (@)%s"-18 Long Prong FNUts G Dr. Frt/Back 2) x7-21_ + (10) #8x 1" Fh Woodscrews + (8) "18 x 2" Hex Bolts H rw Sides (2) x 7h-18 + (A) Ve*-dia Brass Spoon-Style Shelf Pins + (8) Flat Washers e 1 Drwe Bottom (1)% hdbd.- 12% x21 + (4)4”-dia, Locking Swivel Casters + (6) %a"id. x 198"0.0. Fender Washers 4s Tray Supports (2) ¥ hdbd. -Yox 20% + (16) #14 x56" Ph Sheet Metal Screws + (4) 6"-18 Through-Hole Wing Nuts K false Front (1) %4 ply.- 7¥4x22% + (16) ¥a"Flat Washers + (@) %6"=18 Lock Nuts wiNylon Insert _| Woodsmith No.127Construction Details @ LEAL DIenstONs: oon vay 34°H x 28"Wx20°D ingrawer Batraton dame guides offer full sccess to ‘drawer intron ufeout sling tr inal parts bits ete) Gompace footprint doer take ‘seedtonel fioor space 4-80" x60" Batic Birch Pywood Locking swivel casters vie exter ‘maneuverability and solid operation nt CUTTING DIAGRAM tuning ie provisos un support See) ‘Woodsmith‘CASE EXPLODED VIEW cutrabbet foleave ‘ith tongue When it came to designing the cart, tofit Thegan by determining an overall your par- siz. [didn't wantthe carttointerfere ticular model ‘nany way with the operation of the of drill press. deilpress.Atthe ame time,itneeded ‘The carts realy just tobeataconvenient working height _a plywood case on wheels. (Lused and wide enough to offer plenty of Baltic birch plywood.) But the inter- cutfeed support on the sides, esting thing is that all the pieces that One other thing. The U-shaped make up the case are interiocked with notches at the back ofthe cart were dadoes, rabbets, and grooves — sized to ft around the base and col almost ikea Chinese puzale box. The ‘umn of ourdrill press (@ 1644" Deli). result is a strong case that resists You may need to alter the sizes of racking and can stand up to abus these notches and perhaps even The case is made up of two ‘adjust the position ofthe back panel _top/bottom panels (A) thatarerab> NOTE: Cut af dadoes, (grooves and rabbets (motchactoal thiknes of, plywood ar hardboard ‘NOTE: All pieces nt) 9x2" Prwvoodicrew betted to hold a couple of sides (B), see Case Exploded View. The trick ‘when making these rabbetsisto size them to match the exactthiekness of the plywood sides This thickness can vary from sheet to sheet, soit pays to test the fit of each piece. “The sides of the case receive a shal: low dado to hold a plywood divider (©). Before you can determine the size of this divider, however, you'll nore: totum of | youre press ‘Size notches, Ufitsroun 6 Woodsmith No.127ae ree crate the cart from dado to dado. @ oie Tress of om things about the back of this cart, To: start with, the back (D) is set in to Deuecererccee drill press. A groove is positionedon the inside face of each piece to hold Suuuneees < ‘The second thing about the back Zoomed inalons cus Aleve pono ceuactathuvonsees build the drawer) For now, simaly back, see Figs. 2 and 2a. Before you can start assembling deca Morar seiouataoas polseara na eeteaiel shelf pins. It’s ezsier to drill 1 feted reshatesmen: year das urea Geanuauanabaatewr ‘Second, a U-shaped notch is made on the top and bottom panels to fit atten an ee te silgea uclsnicareas tee wtieoen ars er sake unl Gana details in Fig. 1. Sear onetime ivi een geiten wine atin eccrine ing glue on everything. 1 began by ‘gluing and screwing the bottom panel fontesae Teel mciete divider and slipped the back in place, The back is held secure by screwing pobectgeatteiinie ines 2and 2b. Finally, the top panel can be glued and screwed in place. TOP COVER. To create a tough and durable work surface, | added a top cover (E) or “skin” to the top of the iscutrmccime ties peel dee wie ees cane Theveopeagtiocige ctagrema ain tenate pie perry Sadar retemtiente piitiey ll eater O iscostncmens es with the case, see Fig. 3. Then a }" roundover can be routed on the edges ener NOTE: ct 100 ane tin fos after assembly on style Stpelian SHeLr C6 piptood) ‘NOTE; Cu helt tortbetween sides 74436 panhess Sheet neta sew SHEE & USTERS. To complete the case, I made a plywood shelf (F) to fit inside the cart with aha" gap ateach end, see drawing above. The shelf restson brass, spoon-styleshelfpins thatare inserted into the hotesin the sides ofthe case, see detal'b ‘Tocomplete the case, ladded a4" rel caster to each corner, The swivel castersmakeiteasytomanei- A Four locking casters om the bottom ver the cart, and the locking mecha- ofthe care prevent it from moving nism keeps it put. or shifting while in use ‘Wooddsmith 2aNOTE size false front to Herawer fs ppesing mins et Sechne — ie onalsices ‘Grawer bottom ang, akinoard fear supports are NOTE: Drawer front back ‘nd sides ares" thik, {ale front s plywood, Drawer & Sliding Tray ‘Once the case is complete, you can begin working on the drawer To make the draver lighter, 1 wsed Yp"thick solid wood for the front, Teck, and eden Thee & plese false front is added so the drawer matches the rest ofthe cart, ‘To make the drawer, I started by gluing up enough '/2"-thick poplar Societe drawer front and tack (G) andthe two drawer sides (H). After cutting these pieces tosize, [ started to work on the joinery. Nore: cut ray bottom to ft ingrooves —, - EF Tray, Back ® 8 ‘The joinery is pretty straight-for- ward. Arabbet on the front end of each drawer side holds the drawer front, Aad a dado on the inside face ‘of each side holds the drawer back. GROOVES. Before assembling the drawer, you need to make some ‘grooves in the pieces to hold a bot- tom and couple of supports for the tray. Beth the drawer bottom (1) and the two tray supports (J) are ‘made out of 3" hardboard. Asser, Once the groovesare com> ‘Woodsmith, Ta" ghapange — around fae Font pleted, the drawer can be glued and screwed together, Then the tray sup- ports can be glued into their grooves. DRAWER GUIDE, Whenever you have a drawer that i going to be used for storing small items (ike drill bits), you. want to have full access, to the inside of the drawer. Usually, this means using rather expensive, fulkextension drawer guides. But because of the extra space behind the back panel of the cart, we were able to use less expensive guides. ‘These guides extend beyoné the back of the drawer through the notches made in the back of the case earlier, see Exploded View. This, gives you the benefit of a “fullexten- sion” drawer without the added cost. FAISE FRONT, Once the drawer is mounted on the guides, a plywood false front (K) is screwed to the drawer, and a pull is added to com plete the drawer, see detail'b, sine TRAY There's not much tothe sliding tray. The front and back (L) and sides (M) are made from ''- thick poplar, see Fig. 5. These pieces are held together with rabbet joints, see Fig. 5b. And a groove in each piece holds hardboard bottom (N). No, 127 eOutfeed Supports tex ern sheet @SUppORT ‘With he cartmore orless complete, ‘nealtite OUT (a enoss secnon the ony thing et to adds the outeed Baz 1 |W: roundover @ seovcrts ce Fi 6 These are made ‘ OS! st upof vo plywood panels, reinforced along the top edge with apiece of alu im angle. The supports can be raised orlowered as needed! to match the height ofthe drillpress table, Each one of the outfeed support panels (0) receives a shallow rab- bet atone end to hold the aluminum angle, see Fig. 7. (The aluminum angleis added later) In akltion tothe rabbet, a couple ofslots are routed along the length of ‘each panel to allow them to slide up id down. These can be made by diillinga hole at both ends ofthe slot and then routing away the waste in between the holes ona router table, see Figs. 8 and 8, AUUNINUN ANGLE Beforeattachingthe | Remove érawer Before imtating X washer oxtee supports tothecar, added | Selweyaaling, the alumi ange edging. This is a simply trimmed to length and then: cqnutingeen ‘SUPPORT COVERS, Like the top of the _ nuts, bolts, and washers. Alarge pair edges, Then I used a drill bit to mark iC) cart, lalso added hardboard covers _ of plastic wingnuts allows youto lock __ the top of the slots on the sides of the (P) tothe top surface of the outfeed the supports in any position. Andthe case, see photo in margin. To locate supports Theprocederehereissinr Tuts keep the bois rom turning thelovercoulrbores simpy mea, iar —the oly dltereicessrthat| hen you arebsconing or Sten sure cern O ome upper ons ted epoxy ited of contact ahe- ng dows the wing ate Inthe cemer of ath counterbore, ‘sive and I sanded the covers flush To mount the hardware, start by a holeis drilled for the bolt. Then just instead of routing them. (This is drilling shallow counterbores in the _ install the T-nuts and add the bolts, because the aluminum doesn't pro- sides of the cart for the T-nuts. [laid _ washers, lock nuts, and wing nuts, vide enough ofa being sarfaceto out the poston ofthe upper eoun- se dtl’ above Now youeen soll ‘use a flush trim bit.) terbores by clamping the supportpan- the cart right up to your drill press ‘MOUNTING HARDWARE. The outfced sup- els to the sides of the cart so they and start loading it up with drill bits portsare attached to the cart with T- were flush with the top and front and anything else you like. 1 LA 07: Rout shaiiow Invite passes ‘A With the ouefeed suppore panel clamped flush uith the front edge ofthe cart, mark the hole location swith a He". bradpoine bit No. 127 Woodsmith ~aiesacg SUNG UO ay TENON JIG _ This jig has an indexing feature cha Fallon you to cut perfect futing tenons every time, without having to set up the jig each time you use it. table saw, That’s because a tenon jig holds the workplece vertically while runner on the jig guides the work- piece straight through the saw. As a result, the saw blade slices through the workpiece tocreate a tenon vith perfectly smooth sides (cheeks). For some time, 've wanted to build simple tenon jigfor Woodsmith. But before I ever got around to puting nny ideas down on paper, Carlyle MeKaughan, from Greenville ‘South Carolina, sent ina sample ‘ofa tenon jig he made in his own op, So we used his basic design as springboard for our own jig. THE THREE TENONS. One of the inter ‘esting things about this jig is that it alows you to cut three standard tenons —¥/",34’, and 14" —without having to fiddle with alot of different justments, see first photo below The adjustments are “fixed” with an index pin and a series of holes inthe jig. Like a peg in a cribbage board, the pin is moved from one hole to another to cut both cheeks of the tenon, see second photo below. This “This jg cam be used to automati- cally cut fe”, 6", or Yo" tenons in between, — as well as any si makes it easy to repeat the settings ‘without any tedious trial and error. (The igean also be used to cut other size tenons, butyou'll have tosetitup ‘manually each time.) Thereare a couple of other bene fits that come along with thisjig, Fist, 7 A Adjting the jigs simply « matter of renoving the indexpin and sli ing the jg over tothe proper hole ‘Woodsmith you can use it tocut offset tenons as ‘well as tenons that are centered on the thickness of workpiece, see third photo below. And unlike some other tenon jigs, you can cut both cheeks of the tenon without having to flip the ‘workpiece around. Since you don's have to flip the workpiece to cue the second cheek, ot ean make offer tenons. No.2?Base Building thisjigisn't too etfcult-The tricky partis figuring out the rela @ icastip of one part to another and how they work together. At first ‘glance, it may seem confusing. But if you follow the steps, things become clearer as you go along, especially ‘once you have themajor components built and infront of you. The jig consists of three basic assemblies a base a sing platorm assembly that holds the workpiece, and an indexing assembly. I started Duilding the jig by making the base. The base (A) is just a square pice of MDF (mediumedensty ter board) fitted with a couple of phe- nolic runners, see drawing at right. ‘These runners allow the jig to move intwo different directions — forward aul backward and side o side. Before the runners are added, a couple of counterbored holes are dhilled in opposing corners of the base to accommodate a pair of carriage boltsand adjusting knobs, These wl be used later to attach the other two @ sections of the jig, see drawing. ‘RUNNERS. The runners are made of Wthick pherolic (hard, plas tic material that docsn't expand end contract). They're sized to slide ‘smoothly in the miter gauge slot cof your table saw without too much side-to-side play. (Only one runner vel actualy ride in the miter gauge slot, but it’s easier if you make ‘them both the same width.) ‘The runners fit snugly into grooves ‘on each face of the base. The runner Note: size both runners tore miter Suse lot Then size rodses in base ‘on the bottom ofthe base will rein the miter gauge slot, and the runner (on the top will allow the platform assembly to slide back and forth. ‘The ¥/-deep groove for the top runner is centered on the base, see detail'a’ But positioning the 44"leep ‘groove forthe bottom runner is lit tle more involved, To lay out the groove, place the NOTE: cut runner "rom i-th ‘phenotic base against your miter gauge s0 it sits parallel to the blade, see Fig. 1, Now slide the base over so the edge is 244! from the blade. This allows you to mark the location ofthe miter _gnige slot on the hase ofthe jg, which is where the groove wil be located. After both grooves are cu, youcan dill holes in the runners and serew ‘them in place, see Fig. 2 No. 127 Woodsmith 31Ss A Cuteing the dhreads off a hex bole mates a handy index pin 20 threaded ——ingexpin cut rom knob Bieber bole Platform & Index Arm “9 e Atthispoint you've gota basein front is LG EXPLODED VEW Washer CZ. ofyou that slides smoothly back and forth in your miter gauge slot. Now you need to add the platform that sits ‘on top of the base and allows you to ‘move your workpiece sideways in relation to the saw blade. Later, an indexing arm willbe added tocontrol the distance this platform is moved, see Jig Exploded View. © The platform (B) has a | aRM groove in the bottom to fit over SUPPORT therunnermountedinthetopof = @)—/ audition supine the base, Butin ation to this SuBING | platiorm, youTlalo need a narrow piece with an identical groove to serve as a support for the indexing (< arm that’s added later, see Fig.3. To avoid having to set upadedo blade twice to cut these grooves, I started with a piece of MDF that was. cut to the finished width of the plat- the platform, locking itin place, see ig. 5a. For aesthetic reasons, the form but oversizein length, (My piece y front corner ofthe fence is mitered. was 10" long.) Aftercutting the groove ‘nd to help support the fence at a0 ton the bottom ofthis piece, Leutthe with achisel, see Figs. dand a, angle. a triangular-shaped brace (D) ptform to lengthand saved the waste FENCE. With the platform complete, is added to both pieces. piece to make the arm support later. you sillneed away toclampthe work: Th pecesareall attached with @ ‘The platform will slip over a car- piece to the jig and hold i parallel to give and screws. To make the assem- riage bolt in the base. To allow i to the blade. Thats where thefence (C) bly asneat as possible, !dry-clamped ‘lde tothe leR orright,lereated aslot comes in, This is just a piece that’s all the pieces together first. Then I inone corner, see Fig. 3b. attached atarightangle tothe siding _diled pot holesand shank hoes for You can make this slot by driling platform, see Fig. 5. To ai inassem- all the screws, When this was done, series of 4e!ia holes. Theridges bling the fence, a shallow groove is _Idisassembied the pieces, applied the that are left behind on each side of created along the bottom edge to _glue.and put everything back togeth- theslotcan thenbe trimmed smooth allow thefence tofitoverthe edge of er this time with screws. Save waste plece erg (isa ve po iu é — ror view pa 4 Nore ot, 2 ig + || e ees See en ptn 2 Woodsmith No.7S0?.The as piece to addisa stop (8). Mis piece serves.as aback stop for your workpiece and helps keep it perpendicular to the table saw, see Fig. 6Thestopis grin pace slong thebackedge ofthe fence. just make sarethatthe front edge (te one that the workpieces will est against) is square with the base ofthe ig ‘UMP Sor. Like most shopmade tenonjgs thisone uses small clamp wo hold the workptece against the fence ofthe jig, The only problem ‘ax hier with this arrangement is that it ess woogscre requires three hands — one to hod the workpiece, one tohold the clamp, and atid to tighten ‘Toget around ths, an angled slot is created inthe front edge of the fence and stop, see Fig. 6a. The bar ofthe clamp slipsneatly into the slot, and gravity holds ita place leaving you with both hands ree to poston the workpiece and tighten the clamp, see photo in margin, Inbecassenaty. The only component left to make now's the indexing arm assembly: This consists of nothing @ morethan an indexing arm (F) with arowoffourholes ued on top ofan arm support (G) a right angle, see Figs, 7 and 7a. The arm support is made from the lefover piece from ‘ A Anangld dotin the siding platform, the fron ofthe jg Once the two pieces are glued hols a clamp, together, youl need to create a slot in them to allow a carriage bolt to passthrough. This is done ust ike the slotyou madeon the sing platform. Only this time, you have to drill and chisel through two thicknesses of material, see Figs. 7 and 7a, wasowRE, With the three assem bles of the fig compete, sll you need todonowisadd thenobs, bolts, and sliding platform, I simply cut offthe Before you can make your first otherhardwarethathold everything threaded portion of along bex bok, tenoa, however, you need to drill the together, see Exploded View on oppo- see photo in margin on opposte page. holes inthe platform for the index sitepage. To make te indexpinthat Now that you've finished the jg, pin, For step-by-step instructions on connects the indexing arm withthe you're probably anxious to ty tout. how to do this, turn the page. MATERIALS & SUP! A Base (I) 34 MDF-9x9 Indexing Arm(1)¥% MOF-4x6 + (2)¥a"-20 Threaded Knobs @ | fevers) Hver-9% 55% 6 Arm Supsor(t 4a Mor-2ex9 + GUC Ft Washers € Fence() A vOF-Bx9 + (8) #834" Fh Woodscrews + (6) #8x 124” BrassFhWoodscrews D Brace (1) %AMOF-6x6 + (1) %4"-20x2" Carriage Bolt E Stop(]) — MMOF-2%6 + (1) Ya"-20x 3” Carriage Bolt 34" x9" Phenolic 3” Hex Bolt | No. 12 Woodsmith 33Before you ean tse ee thejig.youtre going to drill workpiece holesin te platform to match upwith thehoksin the index arm. ZB “tre “These holes, along with the index pin, Ze marti a ‘wllautomatically positon the jgtocut Sinan A Acenon cut with fixed sizes of tenons. aig wl have Butinstead ofdiling theholesfst 9 To di the first hole, set the plat- “wide mortise na perfectly smooth and then cutting the tenons, I went form so it's 1” away from the arm scrap wood. Then use ‘sides, resulting in aboutita little “backwards.” I started support. Then tighten the knobs and the mortise to lay out the tenon on Sdowrfianda bymaking "mortise, seeStep2 cla ¥s-deep hole in the platrm. erat Soong joine. Then Leta tenen to fi, see Steps 1,Sand 4. When the tenon ftsthe [SE Ra mortise exactly, you can drill a hole | hole inthe platform to locate the index pin, see Sle 5. Now ust repeat segs 2 thru 5 for the other two holes, first ‘with a 3¢"swide mortise and then with a/'awide mortise. After you've drilled all the holes in. the platform, you might want to cen fer them slightly to make ease to To cut the first cheek, insert the pin the jig. With your ee tea ee ee eee ee ee er See ee a naiennam ee ee ee anaes 0s |Z wera o tc Got Fes bver — SS te if — FE er ear nEGe eso ree ihe pin, and slid the platform cverso the saw blade is on platform and abe! the the apposite side ofthe tenon, Then sneak upon thelayout ine size next to it (Wc). Repeat ly chamfer them slightly with ‘by making several passes, moving the platform litleby little. process forthe ¥6"and =" tenons 2 countersink bit Miter gauge th Fence ‘Touse the ig, start by clamp- ing your workpiece in place. Insert the index pin in the frst hole and move the platform and the index arm into position to-cut the first cheek. To cut the second cheek, leave the index arm locked in place, i remove the pin, slide the plat Ir Ur form over, and insert the pin "The first cheek of the tenon oe the second cheek, #¥ Afterremoving the waste inthe appropriatehole. Finally, Mf (regardless of size) is cut msde theplatform overand WB from the tenon cheeks, cut away the waste on both with the index pin inserted in insert the index pin into the stand the werkpiece on edge, Sides ofthe tenon, the fist bottom) hole, appropriate hele. ‘make the shoulder cuts.SOURCES Woodsmith Project S plies is currently off ahariware kit for the drill press stand in this issue Similar supplies, as well as supplies for the other pro- Jects featured, are also avail able at local woodworking and hardware stores or the ‘mail erder sources atright END TABLE ‘The end table on page 6 similar to other tableswe've featured in the past, see photo below. For thistable, the only hardware you will need (besides wooxiserews) are some figures fasteners, aylon glide tape, and 2 1" square brass knob (which antiqued!) see souroesat right, Note: The design of the knob may vary slightly from different sources WALL SHELF To build the wall shelf (page 16), you'll need a piece of 2" x 2" aluminum angle and a few small knobs. We found both at a local hardware store, DRILL PRESS STAND ‘The drill press stand on page requires quite a bit of hardware, We found the ‘A The Craftsman end table in this issue has many of he sane features as two other Crfisman projects we have featured in past issues of Woods: the sofa table UUssue No. 104) andthe coffe table (Issue No. 112) WOT ae a bay aluminum angle at a local hardware store. Most ofthe other hardware should be available locally, as well, However, you may have twouble finding the plastic wing nuts and 18" drawer slides, = these two parts are listed in the sourcesat right, (For more on the ceasters see below: Woodemith Project Su plies is currently offering hardware kit that includes ‘everything you need encent the casters, see below, * Drill Press Stand Kit 127-100 $33.95 ‘castiRs, For the drill pressstand, we used M"'dia, “doublelocking” casters, see the sources at right. In addition to locking the wheel, the brake on the caster ako Tocks the base so the caster won't swivel. (METAL RULES A good metal rule isnt hard tofind, and itwon't “break the bank" either, see the sources at right. Flexible rules are also available, though not as common. Woodsmith Project Sup- plies is currently offering three quality metal rules, * Woodworker's 6' Rule 701-116 $9.95 ‘= Woodworker's 12" Rule 7ov-i21 $16.95 ‘* Woodworkers 18” Rule 701-181 $19.95 TEHON JIG “Thereisn'tmuch hardware required to build the tenon jig featured on page 30. The ‘runners are made from 'f thick phenolic plastic, and tofind itlocally, you'll have to look up “plastics” in the yellow pages. Otherwise, ‘you can order from one of the sources at right, ‘The only other item tha may be hard to find locally are the two plastic knobs with threaded inserts, so ‘we've listed them as well. clamp, The small bar clamp does not have to be ‘permanent part ofthe jig, but it'snota bad ideato buy ad" or 6" damp to use with the jig. These are readily available from the mail order sources at right + Project Plans You Can Download * Catalog of Projet Kits, Tools, Jigs & Plans + Forums for Woodworking, Toole & Classifeds ‘+ Links to Other Woodtwerking ites + Order Woowsmith/ShopNotes Back Issues + Vistour other August Home Publishing Stes Woedamith www.woodsmith.com ORDER SOURCES Simitar project supplies and hardware may ie ordered from the following companies: Ginger wong com Plena Lee Vater 800-871-8158 sy eee com igre, Cuter ‘ecto MedMaster are 630.833.0300 eile rey Rockler Woodworking 800.270.4141 sreorselde.con, ne hardar Ate, Tao 800.848.6657 Woovdsmith Store ‘800-845-0081 Phenol Rat rule ‘riled Woodworker's Supply "800.645.0202. Tae eh, Dr Tria etef) FINAL DETAILS YU End Table. Quertersaum oak and traditional rmoruse and tenon tery make shis end wable the perfect complement just about any ving room. Complete plan fortis project begin om page 6. A. Wall Shelfwith Drawers WO single, yer song, hidden ‘maurting system alles you to hang his wall shel just about an where. For detailed plans on it consoucton, see age 16. ae) a as an outfeed suppor. And it can be rolled owt of the ‘way when necessary. For more, se page 24