KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

SEWING BASICS

UTILITY STITCHES

APPENDIX

Computerized Sewing Machine

Operation Manual

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

When using this machine, basic safety precautions should always be taken, including the following: Read all instructions before using.

- To reduce the risk of electric shock: DANGER 1. The machine should never be left unattended while plugged in. Always unplug the machine
from the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.

- To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons: WARNING 1. Do not allow this machine to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when the machine is
used by or near children. 2. Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual. 3. Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment. 4. Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the machine and foot control free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth. 5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening. 6. Do not use outdoors. 7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered. 8. To disconnect, turn the main switch to the symbol position which represents off, then remove plug from outlet. 9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord. 10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle. 11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break. 12. Do not use bent needles. 13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break. 14. Switch the machine to the symbol position when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, and the like. 15. Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual. 16. This sewing machine is not intended for use by young children or infirm persons without supervision. (For Australia and New Zealand only) 17. Young children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with this machine. 18. If the Light unit is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized dealer.

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS This machine is intended for household use.

FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY

If this machine is fitted with a three-pin non-rewireable BS plug then please read the following.

IMPORTANT
If the available socket outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, it should be cut off and an appropriate three-pin plug fitted. With alternative plugs an approved fuse must be fitted in the plug. NOTE The plug served from the main lead must be destroyed as a plug with bared flexible cords is hazardous if engaged in a live socket outlet. In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the mark, rating as marked on plug. Always replace the fuse cover, never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted. WARNING DO NOT CONNECT EITHER WIRE TO THE EARTH TERMINAL WHICH IS MARKED WITH THE LETTER E, BY THE EARTH SYMBOL OR COLOURED GREEN OR GREEN AND YELLOW. The wires in this main lead are coloured in accordance with the following code: Blue Brown Neutral Live

As the colours of the wiring in the main lead of this appliance may not correspond with the coloured markings identifying the terminals in your plug, proceed as follows. The wire which is coloured blue must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter N or coloured black or blue. The wire which is coloured brown must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter L or coloured red or brown.

CONGRATULATIONS ON CHOOSING OUR MACHINE

Your machine is one of the most advanced computerized household sewing machines. To fully enjoy all the features, we suggest that you study the manual before using the machine.

PLEASE READ BEFORE USING THIS MACHINE

For safe operation 1. Be sure to keep your eye on the needle while sewing. Do not touch the hand wheel, thread takeup lever, needle, or other moving parts. 2. Remember to turn off the power switch and unplug the cord when: Operation is completed Replacing or removing the needle or any other parts A power failure occurs during use Maintaining the machine Leaving the machine unattended 3. Do not store anything on the foot controller. 4. Plug the machine directly into the wall. Do not use extension cords. For a longer service life 1. When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects. 2. Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders can damage the case and machine, and should never be used. 3. Do not drop or hit the machine. 4. Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet, needle, or other parts to assure correct installation. For repair or adjustment In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists, please consult your local authorized Brother dealer. For additional product information and updates, visit our web site at www.brother.com The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice.

CONTENTS
1. KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ..........................................................5
NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS ....................................................5
The main parts ................................................................................................................................................. 5 Needle and presser foot section ...................................................................................................................... 6 Operation buttons ............................................................................................................................................. 6 Operation panel ................................................................................................................................................ 7 Flat bed attachment ......................................................................................................................................... 7

ACCESSORIES .....................................................................................................................8
Optional accessories ........................................................................................................................................ 8

USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE .....................................................................................9

Power supply precautions ................................................................................................................................ 9 Power supply .................................................................................................................................................... 9 Foot controller ................................................................................................................................................ 10 Sewing speed controller (for models equipped with the start/stop button) ..................................................... 10 Changing the needle stop position ................................................................................................................. 10

THREADING THE MACHINE ............................................................................................11

Winding the bobbin ........................................................................................................................................ 11 Lower threading ............................................................................................................................................. 14 Upper threading ............................................................................................................................................. 16 Drawing up the lower thread .......................................................................................................................... 19

REPLACING THE NEEDLE ................................................................................................. 20

Needle precautions ........................................................................................................................................ 20 Needle types and their uses ........................................................................................................................... 20 Checking the needle ...................................................................................................................................... 21 Replacing the needle ..................................................................................................................................... 21 Sewing with a twin needle .............................................................................................................................. 23

REPLACING THE PRESSER FOOT ......................................................................................24

Replacing the presser foot ............................................................................................................................. 24 Removing the presser foot holder .................................................................................................................. 25

2. SEWING BASICS ...........................................................................................26

SEWING ............................................................................................................................26
General sewing procedure ............................................................................................................................. 26 Selecting stitching .......................................................................................................................................... 27 Starting to sew ............................................................................................................................................... 28 Thread tension ............................................................................................................................................... 29

USEFUL SEWING TIPS ......................................................................................................30

Trial sewing .................................................................................................................................................... 30 Changing the sewing direction ....................................................................................................................... 30 Sewing curves ................................................................................................................................................ 30 Sewing thick fabrics ....................................................................................................................................... 30 Sewing thin fabrics ......................................................................................................................................... 31 Sewing stretch fabrics .................................................................................................................................... 31 Using a free-arm style .................................................................................................................................... 31

3. UTILITY STITCHES ........................................................................................32

OVERCASTING STITCHES ................................................................................................ 32 BASIC STITCHING ............................................................................................................33
Basic stitching ................................................................................................................................................ 33

BLIND HEM STITCHING .................................................................................................. 34 BUTTONHOLE SEWING ...................................................................................................35

Button sewing ................................................................................................................................................. 38

ZIPPER INSERTION ........................................................................................................... 40 SEWING STRETCH FABRICS AND ELASTIC TAPE ............................................................41
Stretch stitching .............................................................................................................................................. 41 Elastic attaching ............................................................................................................................................. 41

APPLIQU, PATCHWORK AND QUILT STITCHING ........................................................ 42

Appliqus ....................................................................................................................................................... 42 Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching ..................................................................................................................... 43 Piecing ........................................................................................................................................................... 43 Quilting ........................................................................................................................................................... 44 Free-motion quilting ....................................................................................................................................... 45

REINFORCEMENT STITCHING .........................................................................................46

Triple stretch stitching .................................................................................................................................... 46 Bar tack stitching ............................................................................................................................................ 46

DECORATIVE STITCHING ................................................................................................ 48

Fagoting ......................................................................................................................................................... 49 Scallop stitching ............................................................................................................................................. 49 Smocking ....................................................................................................................................................... 50 Shell tuck stitching ......................................................................................................................................... 50 Joining ............................................................................................................................................................ 51 Heirloom stitching ........................................................................................................................................... 51

4. APPENDIX .....................................................................................................52
STITCH SETTINGS ............................................................................................................. 52
Utility stitches ................................................................................................................................................. 52

MAINTENANCE ................................................................................................................57
Cleaning the machine surface ........................................................................................................................ 57 Cleaning the bobbin case ............................................................................................................................... 57

TROUBLESHOOTING ....................................................................................................... 59 ERROR MESSAGES ............................................................................................................62

Operation beep (for models equipped with the operation beep) .................................................................... 62

INDEX ............................................................................................................................... 63

1 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS
The main parts

a Bobbin winder (page 11) This winds the thread onto the bobbin for use as the lower thread. b Spool pin (pages 11 and 16) This holds the spool of thread. c Hole for extra spool pin (page 23) This holds a second spool of thread for sewing with two needles. d Upper tension-control dial (page 29) This controls the tension of the upper thread. e Thread guide (pages 11 and 16) This is used when winding the thread onto the bobbin and then threading the machine. f Thread take-up lever (page 17) g Thread cutter (page 29) Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them. h Flat bed attachment with accessory compartment (pages 7 and 31) i Operation buttons (page 6) The operation buttons differ depending on the sewing machine model.

j Operation panel (page 7) This is used to select the stitch and specify the various settings. k Handwheel Used to manually raise and lower the needle. l Main power and sewing light switch (page 9) You can turn the main power and sewing light switch on and off. m Jack/socket connector (page 9) Insert the plug on the power supply cord into the jack/ socket connector. n Foot controller jack/socket (page 10) Plug in the foot controller plug. o Feed dog position lever (pages 38 and 45) Use the feed dog position lever to lower the feed dogs. p Presser foot lever (page 16) Used to raise and lower the presser foot. q Foot controller (page 10) You can use this to control the sewing speed, and to start and stop sewing.

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

Needle and presser foot section

d Presser foot holder screw Use the presser foot holder screw to hold the presser foot holder in place. e Presser foot The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the fabric as the sewing takes place. Attach the appropriate presser foot for the selected stitching. f Feed dogs The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction. g Quick-set bobbin (for models equipped with the quickset bobbin) You can start sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread. h Bobbin cover Open the bobbin cover to set the bobbin. i Needle plate The needle plate is marked with guides for sewing straight seams. j Needle bar thread guide Pass the upper thread through the needle bar thread guide. k Needle clamp screw Use the needle clamp screw to hold the needle in place.

a Buttonhole lever Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes and bar tacks. b Needle threader (for models equipped with the needle threader) (page 17) c Presser foot holder The presser foot is installed onto the presser foot holder.

Operation buttons
The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine operations. The operation buttons differ depending on the sewing machine model.

a Presser foot lever Raise and lower the presser foot lever to raise and lower the presser foot. b Reverse/reinforcement stitch button Press the reverse/reinforcement stitch button to sew reverse stitches. Reverse stitches are sewn by keeping the button pressed down to sew in the opposite direction. For details, refer to Sewing reinforcement stitches (page 29).

Buttons provided on some models

c Start/stop button (for models equipped with the start/stop button) Press the start/stop button to start or stop sewing. The machine sews at a slow speed at the beginning of sewing while the button is depressed. When sewing is stopped, the needle is lowered in the fabric. For details, refer to Starting to sew (page 28). d Needle position button (for models equipped with the needle position button) Press the needle position button to raise or lower the needle. Pressing the button twice sews one stitch. e Sewing speed controller (for models equipped with the sewing speed controller) Slide the sewing speed controller to adjust the sewing speed.

Operation panel
The operation panel, located on the front of the sewing machine, allows you to select a stitch and specify how the stitch will be sewn.

Flat bed attachment

The accessories are stored in a compartment inside the flat bed attachment.
a open it.

Slide the flat bed attachment to the left to

a LCD (Liquid crystal display) The selected stitch (1), presser foot that should be used (2), stitch length in millimeters (3), and stitch width in millimeters (4) are displayed. b Stitch selection keys Press the stitch selection keys, and then select the number for the stitch that you wish to use. For details, refer to Selecting stitching (page 27). c Stitch length adjustment key Press this key to adjust the stitch length. (Press the side to reduce the stitch length; press the + side to increase the stitch length.) d Stitch width adjustment key Press this key to adjust the stitch width. (Press the side to reduce the stitch width; press the + side to increase the stitch width.)

a Flat bed attachment b Storage compartment

Note
Put the accessories in the bag, and then store the bag inside the compartment. If the accessories are not in a bag, they may fall out, and be lost or damaged.

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

ACCESSORIES
The following accessories are stored in the flat bed attachment. We have designed these accessories to help you be able to carry out most sewing tasks.

Note
(For U.S.A. only) Foot controller: Model T This foot controller can be used on the following machine models: CS-6000, CS-5100, CS-4000, BC-2500, BC-2300, BC-2100, ES-2400, ES-2200, ES-2000, ES-2410, ES-2210, ES-2010, ES-2420, ES-2220, ES-2020 The screw of the presser foot holder is available through your authorized dealer. (Part code: 132730-122) 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

9.

10.
75/11 1 needle 90/14 1 needle 100/16 1 needle

11.

12.

13.

14.

15.

No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

Part Name Buttonhole foot A Overcasting foot G Monogramming foot N Zipper foot I Zigzag foot J (on machine) Blind stitch foot R Button fitting foot M Seam ripper

Part Code U.S.A. Others XC2691-031 XC3098-031 X53840-331 X59370-021 XC3021-031 XC4051-031 X59375-121 X54243-001

No. 9 10 11 12 13 14 15

Part Name Bobbin (4) Needle set Twin needle Cleaning brush Screwdriver Extra spool pin Foot controller

Part Code U.S.A. Others SA156 XA5539-151 XC8834-021 131096-121 X59476-021 X55467-021 130920-021 XC8816-021

Optional accessories
1. 2. 3. 4 5.*

No. 1 2 3

Part Name Walking Foot Quilting Foot 1/4-Inch Quilting Foot

Part Code U.S.A. Others F033N: SA140 XC2214-002 SA129 F005N: XC1948-002 F001N: SA125 XC1944-002

No. 4 5

Part Name Quilting guide Eyelet punch

Part Code U.S.A. Others F016N: SA132 XC2215-002 135793-001

* May be included with some models.

USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

Power supply precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply.

WARNING
Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine. Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances: When you are away from the machine After using the machine When the power fails during use When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection During electrical storms

CAUTION
Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to them. Fire or electric shock may result. Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result. When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to remove it from the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric shock. Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted, or bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged, take the machine to your authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use. Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise a fire may result.

Power supply
a

c switch to .

To turn off the machine, set the main power

Insert the plug into a wall outlet.

The sewing lamp goes off when the machine is turned off.

Note
If a power outage occurs while the sewing machine is being operated, turn off the sewing machine and unplug the power supply cord. When restarting the sewing machine, follow the necessary procedure to correctly operate the machine. (For U.S.A. only) This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.

a Main power switch b Jack/socket connector b

Set the main power switch to I.

The sewing lamp comes on when the machine is turned on.

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

Foot controller
Insert the foot controller plug into its jack/socket on the rear side of the sewing machine.

Sewing speed controller (for models equipped with the start/stop button)
a right to select the desired sewing speed.

Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.

a Foot controller jack/socket

CAUTION
When connecting the foot controller, be sure to turn off the sewing machine in order to prevent the machine from accidentally being started. When you press the foot controller down lightly, the machine will run at a low speed. When you press harder, the machines speed will increase. When you take your foot off the foot controller, the machine will stop.
a Sewing speed controller

The speed set using the sewing speed controller is the foot controllers maximum sewing speed.

Changing the needle stop position

Normally, the sewing machine is set to leave the needle in the fabric when sewing is stopped. Instead, the machine can be set to leave the needle raised when sewing is stopped.
a

Turn off the sewing machine.

Slower

Faster

You should make sure that nothing is placed on the foot controller when the machine is not in use.

CAUTION
Do not allow pieces of cloth and dust to build up on the foot controller. Doing so could cause a fire or an electric shock.

b key) on the left and turn on the sewing machine.

Hold down the side of

(stitch selection

After turning on the sewing machine, release the side of (stitch selection key).

Note
When the foot controller is plugged in, the start/stop button cannot be used to start or stop sewing (only for models equipped with the start/stop button).

The needle stop position changes to the raised position.

Memo
Perform the same operation to change the needle stop position to the lowered position.

10

THREADING THE MACHINE

Winding the bobbin
This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin. For details on the fast bobbin winding, see page 13.

a Pre-tension disk b Bobbin winder shaft c Bobbin

CAUTION
Only use bobbins (part code: SA156, SFB: XA5539-151) that have been designed for this sewing machine. Using other bobbins may cause damage to the machine. We designed the bobbin that comes with this machine. If you use bobbins from other models, the machine will not work properly. Only use the bobbin that comes with this machine or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, SFB: XA5539-151).
Actual size 11.5 mm (7/16 inch) This model a then put a spool of thread on this pin. b Other models d and slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right.

Pull up the spool pin as far as possible, and

Put the bobbin onto the bobbin winder shaft

Pass the thread around the pre-tension disk.

Turn the bobbin clockwise, by hand, until the spring on the shaft slides into the groove of the bobbin.

CAUTION
If the spool of thread is not in the right place, the thread may tangle on the spool pin.
c the bobbin from the inside of the bobbin.

Pass the end of the thread through the hole on

1
a Spring on the shaft b Groove of the bobbin e

Turn on the sewing machine.

11

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE f press the foot controller or press

While holding the end of the thread, gently (start/ stop button) (for models equipped with the start/stop button) to wind the thread around the bobbin a few times. Then stop the machine.

i stop button) (for models equipped with the

Press the foot controller or press start/stop button) to start.

(start/

Note
If the sewing machine is to be operated using the foot controller, connect the foot controller before turning on the machine. When the foot controller is plugged in, the start/stop button cannot be used to start or stop sewing (only for models equipped with the start/stop button).

j spinning slowly, take your foot off the foot

When the bobbin seems full and begins

controller or press (start/stop button) (for models equipped with the start/stop button).
k to the left and remove the bobbin.

Cut the thread, slide the bobbin winder shaft

l original position (for models equipped with

Slide the sewing speed controller back to its the sewing speed controller).

Memo
g

Trim the excess thread above the bobbin.

When the sewing machine is started or the handwheel is turned after winding the thread around the bobbin, the machine will make a clicking sound; this is not a malfunction. The needle bar does not move when you slide the bobbin winding shaft to the right.

CAUTION
Make sure you follow the instructions carefully. If you do not cut the thread completely, and the bobbin is wound, when the thread runs low it may tangle around the bobbin and cause the needle to break.
h (to set the speed to fast). (For models

CAUTION
Not winding the bobbin properly may cause the thread tension to loosen, and may break the needle.

Slide the sewing speed controller to the right equipped with the sewing speed controller.)

1
a Wound evenly b Wound poorly

a Sewing speed controller

12

 For models equipped with the fast bobbin winding system

Follow steps 1 through 2 of the procedure in a Winding the bobbin to pass the thread around the pre-tension disk (page 11).
b so that the spring on the shaft fits into the

f (to set the speed to fast) (for models equipped

Slide the sewing speed controller to the right with the sewing speed controller).

1
a Sewing speed controller g

Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft notch in the bobbin.

Turn on the sewing machine. Press the foot controller or press (start/

h stop button) (for models equipped with the

start/stop button) to start.

a Notch b Bobbin winder shaft spring c

Note
If the sewing machine is to be operated using the foot controller, connect the foot controller before turning on the machine. When the foot controller is plugged in, the start/stop button cannot be used to start or stop sewing (only for models equipped with the start/stop button).
i your foot off the foot controller or press

Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right.

d pre-tension disk with your left hand, use your

While holding the thread that wraps around the right hand to wind the free end of the thread clockwise around the bobbin five or six times. When the bobbin begins spinning slowly, take (start/stop button) (for models equipped with the start/stop button).
j to the left and remove the bobbin.

Cut the thread, slide the bobbin winder shaft

e the slit in the bobbin winder seat.

Pull the thread to the right and pass it through

k original position (for models equipped with

Slide the sewing speed controller back to its the sewing speed controller).

CAUTION
Not winding the bobbin properly may cause the thread tension to loosen, and may break the needle.
a Slit in bobbin winder seat (with built-in cutter)

The thread is cut to a suitable length.

CAUTION
Be sure to cut the thread as described. If the bobbin is wound without cutting the thread using the cutter built into the slit in the bobbin winder seat, the thread may become tangled in the bobbin or the needle may bend or break when the bobbin thread starts to run out.
1
a Wound evenly b Wound poorly

13

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE b

Memo
When the sewing machine is started or the handwheel is turned after winding the thread around the bobbin, the machine will make a clicking sound; this is not a malfunction. The needle bar does not move when you slide the bobbin winding shaft to the right.

Slide the button and open the cover.

a Cover b Slide button c the direction shown by the arrow.

Put the bobbin in so the thread comes out in

Lower threading
Install the bobbin wound with thread. For more details on quick-set bobbin, see page 15.

CAUTION
Winding the bobbin improperly may cause the thread tension to loosen, breaking the needle and resulting in injury. Only use bobbins that were designed to be used with this machine.

CAUTION
Make sure you set the bobbin so the thread unrolls in the right direction. If the thread unrolls in the wrong direction, it may cause the thread tension to be incorrect or break the needle.

1
a Wound evenly b Wound poorly

2
d down with your finger, and then pass the

Hold the end of the thread, push the bobbin thread through the slit, as shown. Make sure that the thread is correctly inserted through the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin case. If it is not inserted, reinsert the thread.

The bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. If bobbins from other models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the enclosed bobbin or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, SFB: XA5539-151).
Actual size 11.5 mm (7/16 inch) This model Other models

CAUTION
Make sure you turn the power off while threading the machine. If you accidentally step on the foot controller and the machine starts to sew, you could be injured. Raise the needle to its highest position by turning a the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) or press (needle position button) (for models equipped with the needle position button), and raise the presser foot lever.
1
a Tension-adjusting spring e place (see arrow a), and then press lightly on

Replace the bobbin cover. Put the left tab in

14

the right side (see arrow b) until the cover clicks into place.

Make sure that the thread is correctly inserted through the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin case. If it is not inserted, reinsert the thread.

1
Replace the cover so that the end of the thread comes out from the left side of the cover (as shown by the line in the diagram).

For models equipped with the quick-set bobbin

a the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) or

Raise the needle to its highest position by turning press (needle position button) (for models equipped with the needle position button), and raise the presser foot lever.

1
a Tension-adjusting spring

Slide the button and open the cover.

Memo
The order that the bobbin thread should be passed through the bobbin case is indicated by marks around the bobbin case. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated.

a Cover b Slide button c through the slit, and then pull the thread to cut it.

Put the bobbin in, feed the end of the thread

d place (see arrow a), and then press lightly on

Replace the bobbin cover. Put the left tab in the right side (see arrow b) until the cover clicks into place.

Only use bobbins that were designed to be used with this machine.

CAUTION
Make sure you set the bobbin so the thread unrolls in the right direction. If the thread unrolls in the wrong direction, it may cause the thread tension to be incorrect or break the needle.

Memo
You can begin sewing immediately without drawing up the bobbin thread. If you want to draw up the bobbin thread before you start to sew, follow to the procedure in Drawing up the lower thread (page 19).

1
a Cutter

15

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

Upper threading
Set the upper thread and thread the needle. For details on the needle threader, see page 17.

a Spool pin b Thread guide c Mark on the handwheel

CAUTION
Make sure you thread the machine properly. Otherwise, the thread could tangle and break the needle.
a lever.

Raise the presser foot using the presser foot

b toward you (counterclockwise) so that the

Raise the needle by turning the handwheel mark on the wheel points up, or press (needle position button) (for models equipped with the needle position button) once or twice to raise the needle.

a Presser foot lever

or

a Mark

b Needle position button

If the needle is not correctly raised, the sewing machine can not be threaded. Be sure to turn the handwheel so that the mark on the wheel points up before threading the sewing machine.

16

c then put a spool of thread on this pin.

Pull up the spool pin as far as possible, and

Note
If the thread take-up lever is lowered, the upper thread cannot be wrapped around the thread take-up lever. Make sure you raise the presser foot lever and the thread take-up lever before you feed the upper thread. If you incorrectly feed the thread you may cause sewing problems.

CAUTION
If the spool of thread is in the wrong place, or is set incorrectly, the thread may tangle on the spool pin and cause the needle to break.
d on the previous page.

Feed the upper thread as shown in the figure

Make sure you guide the thread through the e thread take-up lever from right to left.

Using the needle threader (for models equipped with the needle threader)

CAUTION
The needle threader can only be used with home sewing machine needles size 75/11100/16. Check the table on page 20 for the appropriate needle and thread combinations. If you are using transparent nylon monofilament thread, you can only use needles in the range of 90/14-100/16. You cannot use the needle threader if you are using decorative threads or special needles, such as the twin needle and wing needle. If you are using those types of threads or needles, thread the eye of the needle by hand. Make sure the main power switch is off when threading the needle by hand.
a Upper threading to thread the machine to

a Thread take-up lever f guide above the needle.

Put the thread behind the needle bar thread The thread can easily be passed behind the needle bar thread guide by holding the thread in your left hand, then feeding the thread with your right hand.

Follow steps 1 through 6 of the procedure in

the needle bar thread guide.

b a Needle bar thread guide g out about 5 cm (2 inch) of thread.

Lower the presser foot lever.

Thread the needle from front to back and pull

c hook the thread onto the guide.

While lowering the needle threader lever,

a 5 cm (2 inch) a Needle holder b Needle threader lever c Guide

17

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE d

Fully lower the needle threader lever.

g the needle toward the back of the sewing

Pull out about 5 cm (2 inch) of thread through machine.

The end of the needle threader rotates toward you and the hook passes through the eye of the needle.
e

Catch the thread on the hook as shown below.

a 5 cm (2 inch)

Note
If you incorrectly feed the thread you may cause sewing problems.

a Hook b Thread f needle threader lever. The hook will pull the

While lightly holding the thread, release the thread through the needle.

18

Drawing up the lower thread

a

Lightly hold the end of the upper thread.

d and pull them toward the back of the machine

Pull out about 10 cm (4 inch) of both threads under the presser foot.

a Upper thread b raise the needle either by turning the

While holding the end of the upper thread, handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark on the wheel points up or by pressing (needle position button) (for models equipped with the needle position button) once or twice.

a Upper thread b Lower thread

For models equipped with the quick-set bobbin

You can begin sewing immediately without drawing up the bobbin thread. When sewing gathers or darts, you can draw up the lower thread by hand so that some thread will be left over. Before you draw up the lower thread, put the bobbin back in.
a of the arrow, and leave it there without

or

Pass the thread along the slit in the direction cutting it.

a Mark c thread.

b Needle position button

Pull on the upper thread to draw up the lower

The bobbin cover should still be removed.

b steps 1 to 4. c a Upper thread b Lower thread

Draw up the lower thread as described in

Replace the bobbin cover.

19

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

REPLACING THE NEEDLE

This section provides information on sewing machine needles.

Needle precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these precautions is extremely dangerous. Be sure to read and carefully follow the instructions below.

CAUTION
Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the machine. Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injury.

Needle types and their uses

The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Refer to the following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew. Thread Type Cotton thread Synthetic thread Silk thread Cotton thread Synthetic thread Silk thread Cotton thread Synthetic thread Silk thread Thread for knits Cotton thread Easily frayed fabrics Synthetic thread Silk thread For top-stitching Synthetic thread Silk thread 30 90/14100/16 5080 65/990/14 Size 6080 75/1190/14 5080 6080 5080 3050 50 5060 90/14100/16 Ball point needle (golden colored) 75/1190/14

Fabric Type/Application Broadcloth Medium weight fabrics Taffeta Flannel, Gabardine Lawn Thin fabrics Georgette Challis, Satin Denim Thick fabrics Stretch fabrics Corduroy Tweed Jersey Tricot

Size of Needle

65/975/11

Memo
The smaller the thread number, the thicker the thread; and the larger the needle number, the thicker the needle. Use the ball point needle when sewing on stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped stitches easily occur. Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle with transparent nylon threads, regardless of the fabric being sewn. A 75/11 needle is already installed when the sewing machine is purchased.

20

CAUTION
The appropriate fabric, thread and needle combinations are shown in the table on the previous page. If the combination of the fabric, thread and needle is not correct, particularly when sewing thick fabrics (such as denim) with thin needles (such as 65/9 to 75/11), the needle may bend or break. In addition, the stitching may be uneven or puckered or there may be skipped stitches.

Replacing the needle

Replace the needle as described below. Use the screwdriver and a needle that has been determined to be straight according to the instructions in Checking the needle .
a toward you (counterclockwise) so that the

Raise the needle by turning the handwheel mark on the wheel points up. (With models equipped with (needle position button), raise the needle by pressing once or twice.)

Checking the needle

Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous since the needle may break while the machine is being operated. Before using the needle, place the flat side of the needle on a flat surface and check that the distance between the needle and the flat surface is even.

or

1 2
b

a Mark

b Needle position button

Turn off the sewing machine.

a Flat side b Needle type marking

Correct needle

CAUTION
Before replacing the needle, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may occur if the foot controller or the start/ stop button is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.
c

1
a Flat surface

Lower the presser foot lever.

Incorrect needle
If the distance between the needle and the flat surface is not even, the needle is bent. Do not use a bent needle.

1
a Flat surface

a Presser foot lever

21

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE d use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp

Hold the needle with your left hand, and then screw counterclockwise to remove the needle.

f use the screwdriver to tighten the needle

While holding the needle with your left hand, clamp screw by turning it clockwise.

Note
The needle can be removed by simply loosening the needle clamp screw about one turn. (If the needle clamp screw is loosened too much, the needle clamp (which holds the needle) may fall off. Therefore, do not loosen the needle clamp screw too much.)

Install the twin needle in the same way.

CAUTION
a Screwdriver b Needle clamp screw

Do not apply strong force when loosening or tightening the needle clamp screw, otherwise certain parts of the sewing machine may be damaged.

Be sure to insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper and securely tighten the needle clamp screw with the screwdriver, otherwise the needle may break or damage may result.

Installing the needle clamp

If the needle clamp is removed, follow the procedure below to attach it to the needle bar.
a the needle clamp onto the needle bar so that

As seen from the front of the machine, slide the needle clamp screw is on the right side and the needle bar thread guide is at the bottom.

e rear of the machine, insert the needle until it

With the flat side of the needle toward the touches the needle stopper.

a Needle clamp screw b Needle bar thread guide c Needle bar b with the end of the needle bar, and then

Align the bottom edge of the needle holder tighten the needle clamp screw.

a Needle stopper

a b c d

Needle bar Needle holder Needle clamp screw Align

22

Sewing with a twin needle

We have designed your machine so you can sew with this needle and two top threads. You can use the same color or two different colors of thread for making decorative stitches. For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the twin needle, refer to Stitch settings (page 52).

CAUTION
Use only twin needles that have been made for this machine (part code: 131096-121). Other needles could break, and damage the machine. Do not sew with bent needles. The needle could break and injure you. You can not use the needle threader to thread the twin needle. Instead, thread the twin needle by hand, from front to back. Using the needle threader may damage the machine. When using the twin needle, be sure to select an appropriate stitch, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged. Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged. After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break. When using the twin needle, be sure to attach zigzag foot J, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged. When changing the sewing direction, be sure to raise the needle before turning the fabric. If the fabric is turned while the needle is lowered, the needle may bend or break.

Twin needle threading

a Attach the twin needle in the same way as a

Attach the twin needle. single needle (page 21).

f Do not pass the thread behind the needle bar

Thread the right needle from front to back. thread guide.

b Put the extra spool pin in the hole on the top of

Attach the extra spool pin.

the machine. Put the second spool of thread onto the extra spool pin.

a Left needle thread passes through the needle bar thread guide. b Right needle thread passes in front of the needle bar thread guide. c Needle bar thread guide

Note
a First spool b Second spool c the machine to the needle bar thread guide.

Use the thread from the first spool to thread The path for threading the machine to the needle bar thread guide is the same as for normally threading the machine (for a single needle). See page 17 for more details.

Models equipped with a needle threader You cannot use the needle threader to thread the twin needle. Instead, thread the twin needle by hand, from front to back. Using the needle threader may damage the machine.

CAUTION
When using the twin needle, be sure to attach zigzag foot J, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

Thread the left needle from front to back. Use the thread from the second spool to thread The path for threading the machine to the thread take-up lever is the same as for normally threading the machine (for a single needle). See page 17 for more details.

e the machine to the thread take-up lever.

23

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

REPLACING THE PRESSER FOOT

CAUTION
Always turn off the power before you change the presser foot. If you leave the power on and step on the controller, the machine will start and you may be injured. Always use the correct presser foot for the stitch pattern you have chosen. If you use the wrong presser foot, the needle may strike the presser foot and bend or break, and may cause injury. Only use presser feet that have been designed to be used with this machine. Using other any presser feet may cause an accident or injury.

Replacing the presser foot

Replace the presser foot as described below.
a toward you (counterclockwise) so that the

d presser foot holder to release the presser foot.

Press the black button at the back of the

Raise the needle by turning the handwheel mark on the wheel points up. (With models equipped with (needle position button), raise the needle by pressing once or twice.)

a Black button b Presser foot holder

or

e so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the

Place a different presser foot below the holder shank in the holder. Position the presser foot so the letter indicating the presser foot type (J, A, etc.) is positioned to be read.

a Mark b turn it off.

b Needle position button

If the sewing machine has been turned on,

CAUTION
Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may occur if the foot controller or the start/stop button is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.
c

a Presser foot holder b Shank c Pin

Note
The presser foot to be used with each stitch appears in the LCD. To select a stitch, refer to Selecting stitching (page 27).

Raise the presser foot lever.

a Presser foot lever

24

f presser foot pin snaps into the shank in the

Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the presser foot holder.

Attaching the presser foot holder

a left side of the presser bar.

Align the presser foot holder with the lower-

a Presser foot lever

The presser foot is attached.

g presser foot is securely attached.

Raise the presser foot lever to check that the

a Presser foot holder b Presser bar b your right hand, and then tighten the screw

Hold the presser foot holder in place with using the screwdriver in your left hand.

Removing the presser foot holder

Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that does not use the presser foot holder, such as the quilting foot. Use the screwdriver to remove the presser foot holder.
a Screwdriver b Presser foot holder c Presser foot holder screw

Removing the presser foot holder

a

Note
If the presser foot holder is not correctly installed, the thread tension will be incorrect.

Remove the presser foot. For details, refer to Replacing the presser foot (page 24).

b holder screw.

Use the screwdriver to loosen the presser foot

a Screwdriver b Presser foot holder c Presser foot holder screw

25

SEWING BASICS

2 SEWING BASICS
SEWING
Basic sewing operations are described below. Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions.

CAUTION
While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition, keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and handwheel, otherwise injuries may occur. Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the needle may break. Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries. Make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins, otherwise the needle may break or bend.

General sewing procedure

Follow the basic procedures below to sew.

Turn on the machine.

Turn on the sewing machine. For details on turning on the machine, refer to Power supply (page 9).

Select the stitch.

Select the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn. For details on selecting a stitch, refer to Selecting stitching (page 27).

Attach the presser foot.

Attach the presser foot appropriate for the stitch. For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to Replacing the presser foot (page 24).

Start sewing.

Position the fabric, and then start sewing. When sewing is finished, cut the threads. For details on starting to sew, refer to Starting to sew (page 28).

26

 [Example] Selecting stitch

Selecting stitching
Using the stitch selection keys, select the desired stitch. When the sewing machine is turned on, the straight stitch ( left needle position) is selected.
a

Press the stitch selection keys to select stitch 04. With on the right, select 4, and with

on the left, select 0.

Turn on the sewing machine.

2
Press the + or side of (stitch b length adjustment key) to increase or reduce the stitch length.
b

Press

(stitch selection keys). The

number of the selected stitch is displayed. Press the + or side of to increase or on the
a Stitch length adjustment key b Short c Long c adjustment key) to increase or reduce the

reduce the number by one. Pressing

right changes the digit on the right and pressing on the left changes the digit on the left.

Press the + or side of stitch width.

(stitch width

The stitch is selected.

c

Attach the presser foot.

a Stitch width adjustment key b Narrow c Wide

Note
The presser foot to be used is indicated by the letter (G, A, J, N, or R) below to the right of the stitch number.

Note
When the stitch length or stitch width is changed from the standard setting, around or disappears from the LCD. When the stitch length or stitch width is reset back to the standard setting, reappears around or in the LCD. If the stitch width of the selected stitch cannot be adjusted, -- appears to the right of in the LCD.

d width.

If necessary, adjust the stitch length and For details on sewing with each of the utility stitches, refer to the following example.

CAUTION
After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break. If the stitches are bunched together, increase the stitch length. Continuing to sew with the stitches bunched together may result in the needle bending or breaking.

27

SEWING BASICS e

Lower the presser foot lever.

Starting to sew
a toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark

Raise the needle by turning the handwheel

on the wheel points up. (With models equipped with (needle position button), raise the needle by pressing once or twice.)
a Presser foot lever

or

f controller, slide the sewing speed controller

On models equipped with a sewing speed

to the left or right to adjust the sewing speed. Refer to Sewing speed controller (page 10).
a Mark b b Needle position button

Raise the presser foot lever.

a Sewing speed controller g (With models equipped with

a Presser foot lever c the thread under the presser foot, and then

Place the fabric under the presser foot, pass pull out about 5 cm (2 inch) of thread toward the rear of the machine.

Slowly press down on the foot controller. (start/stop button), if the foot controller is not connected, press once.)

or

The machine starts sewing.

a 5 cm (2 inch) d fabric with your left hand, turn the handwheel h

a Start/stop button

While holding the end of the thread and the

toward you (counterclockwise) with your right hand to lower the needle to the starting point of the stitching.

Take your foot off the foot controller, or press (start/stop button) once (if the machine was started by pressing (start/stop button)) (for models equipped with the start/stop button).

The machine stops sewing.

i toward you (counterclockwise) so that the

Raise the needle by turning the handwheel mark on the wheel points up. (With models equipped with (needle position button), raise the needle by pressing once or twice.)

Raise the presser foot lever.

28

k and then pass the threads through the thread

Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine,

Thread tension
The thread tension will affect the quality of your stitches. You may need to adjust it when you change fabric or thread.

cutter to cut them.

Memo
We recommend that you do a test sample on scrap of a fabric before you start to sew. Correct tension Correct tension is important as too much or too little tension will weaken your seams or cause puckers on your fabric.

a Thread cutter

Memo
When the foot controller is plugged in, (start/stop button) cannot be used to start or stop sewing. When sewing is stopped, the needle remains lowered (in the fabric). The machine can be set so that the needle will stay up when sewing is stopped. For details on setting the machine so that the needles stay up when sewing is stopped, refer to Changing the needle stop position (page 10).

1
a b c d Wrong side Surface Upper thread Lower thread

2 3 4

Upper tension is too tight Loops will appear on the surface of the fabric.

1
a b c d e Wrong side Surface Upper thread Lower thread Loops appear on surface of fabric

Sewing reinforcement stitches When sewing stitches other than straight or zigzag stitches that are secured with reverse stitching, pressing (reverse/reinforcement stitch button) sews reinforcement stitches, 3 to 5 stitches on top of each other.

2 3 4 5

Solution Reduce the tension by turning the upper tension-control dial to a lower number.
4

1
a Reverse stitching b Reinforcement stitching

Upper tension is too loose Loops appear on the wrong side of the fabric.

5
a b c d e Wrong side Surface Upper thread Lower thread Loops appear on wrong side of fabric

Memo
Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches are sewn depends on the stitch that is selected. For details, refer to Stitch settings (page 52).

2 3 4

Solution Increase the tension by turning the upper tension-control dial to a higher number.
4

29

SEWING BASICS

USEFUL SEWING TIPS

Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to these tips when sewing your project.

Trial sewing
After you select a stitch, the machine automatically sets the stitch width and length for the stitch that is selected. However, a trial piece of fabric should be sewn since, depending on the type of fabric and stitching being sewn, the desired results may not be achieved. For the trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and thread that are the same as those used for your project, and check the thread tension and stitch length and width. Since the results differ depending on the type of stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn, perform the trial sewing under the same conditions that will be used with your project.

c sewing.

Lower the presser foot lever and continue

Sewing curves
Stop sewing, and then slightly change the sewing direction to sew around the curve.

Changing the sewing direction

a sewing machine.

When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag stitch, select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain a finer stitch.

When the stitching reaches a corner, stop the Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If the needle was raised, lower the needle either by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) or by pressing (needle position button) once (for models equipped with the needle position button).

Sewing thick fabrics

If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser foot, raise the presser foot lever even higher to bring the presser foot to its highest position.

CAUTION
When using the twin needle, be sure to raise the needle before changing the sewing direction. If the fabric is turned while the needle is lowered, the needle may bend or break.
b fabric.

Raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot.

30

 If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does not feed at the beginning of stitching Zigzag foot J is equipped with a feature that keeps the presser foot level.

Sewing thin fabrics

When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If this occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric. When you have finished sewing, tear off any excess paper.

a Sewing direction a to feed under the foot, raise the presser foot

When you encounter a seam that is too thick lever.

b foot. Keep the button held in and lower the

Press the black button on the left side of the presser foot.

a Stabilizer material or paper

Sewing stretch fabrics

First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then sew without stretching the fabric.

a Black button c level with the seam, allowing the fabric to

Release the button. The foot will lock in place feed.

a Basting

Using a free-arm style

Free-arm sewing is convenient for sewing tubular and hard-to-reach areas. To change your machine to the free-arm style, lift out the flat bed attachment.
a release it.

Slide the flat bed attachment to the left to

Once the trouble spot has been passed, the foot will return to its normal position.

CAUTION
If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch) thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed with too much force, the needle may bend or break.

a Flat bed attachment

31

UTILITY STITCHES

3 UTILITY STITCHES
OVERCASTING STITCHES
You can use the overcasting stitches to join together seams and finish them in one operation. They are also useful for sewing stretch materials.
Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching Rev.* Rfc. ** Rfc. ** Rfc. ** Rfc. ** Walking Foot *** Yes No No No No Twin Needle Yes (J) Yes (J) No No Yes (J) Presser Foot Pattern No. 70 stitches model 60 stitches model 50 stitches model 40 stitches model Application Auto Manual Auto Manual Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] Stitch Length [mm (inch.)]

Stitch Name

Pattern

Zigzag stitch

04

04

04

04

Overcasting and attaching appliqus

3.5 (1/8) 5.0 (3/16) 3.5 (1/8) 5.0 (3/16) 5.0 (3/16)

0.07.0 (01/4) 1.57.0 (1/161/4) 2.55.0 (3/323/16) 2.55.0 (3/323/16) 0.07.0 (01/4)

1.4 (1/16) 1.0 (1/16) 2.0 (1/16) 2.5 (3/32) 2.5 (3/32)

0.04.0 (03/16) 0.24.0 (1/643/16) 1.04.0 (1/163/16) 1.04.0 (1/163/16) 0.54.0 (1/323/16)

3-point zigzag stitch

05

05

05

Overcasting on medium 05 weight or stretch fabrics, attaching elastic, darning, etc. on thin or 06 Overcasting medium weight fabrics Overcasting on thick fab07 rics 08 Overcasting on stretch fabrics

06

06

06

Overcasting stitch

07

07

07

08

08

08

*Rev.: Reverse
a b

**Rfc.: Reinforcement

***Do not use reverse stitching.

d presser foot guide.

Attach overcasting foot G or zigzag foot J.

Sew with the edge of the fabric against the

Select a stitch. For details, refer to Selecting stitching (page 27).

c against the guide of the presser foot, and then

Position the fabric with the edge of the fabric lower the presser foot lever.

a Needle drop point

CAUTION
After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

a Guide

32

BASIC STITCHING
Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Three stitches are available for basic stitching.
Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching Rev.* Rev.* Walking Foot *** Yes *** Yes Twin Needle No Yes (J) Presser Foot Pattern No. 70 stitches model 60 stitches model 50 stitches model 40 stitches model Application Auto Manual Auto Manual Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] Stitch Length [mm (inch.)]

Stitch Name

Pattern

Left Straight

00

00

00

00

Basic stitching, sewing gathers or pintucks, etc.

0.0 (0)

0.07.0 (01/4)

2.5 (3/32) 2.5 (3/32) 2.5 (3/32)

0.25.0 (1/643/16) 0.25.0 (1/643/16) 1.54.0 (1/163/16)

Center

01

01

01

Attaching zippers, basic 01 stitching, and sewing gathers or pintucks, etc. Attaching sleeves, sewing inseams, sewing 02 stretch fabrics and decorative stitching

3
No Rfc.**

Triple stretch stitch

02

02

02

0.0 (0)

0.07.0 (01/4)

No

*Rev.: Reverse

**Rfc.: Reinforcement

***Do not use reverse stitching.

f

When sewing is finished, cut the thread. For details, refer to Starting to sew (page 28).

Basic stitching
a b c

Baste or pin together the fabric pieces.

Attach zigzag foot J.

Select a stitch. For details, refer to Selecting stitching (page 27). Changing the needle position With the straight stitch (left needle position) and the triple stretch stitch, the needle position can be adjusted. Pressing the + side of the stitch width adjustment key moves the needle to the right; pressing the side of the stitch width adjustment key moves the needle to the left.

d beginning of the stitching. e

Lower the needle into the fabric at the

Start sewing. For details, refer to Starting to sew (page 28). For details on sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches, refer to Sewing reinforcement stitches (page 29).

a Stitch width adjustment key b Left needle position c Right needle position

33

UTILITY STITCHES

BLIND HEM STITCHING

You can use the Blind Hem Stitch to finish the edge of a project, like the hem of a pair of trousers, without the stitch showing.
Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching Rfc. * Rfc. * Walking Foot No No Twin Needle No No Presser Foot Pattern No. 70 stitches model 60 stitches model 50 stitches model 40 stitches model Application Auto Manual Auto Manual Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] Pattern

Stitch Name

R Blind hem stitch R

09

09

09

09

Blind hem stitching on medium weight fabrics Blind hem stitching on stretch fabrics

0 (0) 0 (0)

3 3

2.0 (1/16) 2.0 (1/16)

1.03.5 (1/161/8) 1.03.5 (1/161/8)

10

10

10

10

3 3

*Rfc.: Reinforcement
a hem, and then baste it about 5 mm (3/16 inch)

Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the

from the edge of the fabric. Fold back the fabric along the basting, and then position the fabric with the wrong side facing up.

If the needle catches too much of the hem fold If the needle catches too much of the hem fold, adjust the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches the fold by pressing the + side of the stitch width adjustment key.

a Wrong side of fabric a Wrong side of fabric b Basting b c c Desired edge of hem d 5 mm (3/16 inch)

b Right side of fabric

Attach blind hem foot R. Select a stitch. Position the fabric with the edge of the folded then lower the presser foot lever. Check that the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem.

If the needle does not catch the hem fold If the needle does not catch the hem fold, adjust the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches the fold by pressing the - side of the stitch width adjustment key.

d hem against the guide of the presser foot, and

a Wrong side of fabric

b Right side of fabric

For details on changing the stitch width, refer to Selecting stitching (page 27).
e presser foot guide.

Sew with the fold of the hem against the Remove the basting stitching and turn the

f fabric right side up.

a Needle b Needle drop point c Fold of hem

d Wrong side of fabric e Guide a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric

34

BUTTONHOLE SEWING
Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on.
Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching Auto* Rfc. Auto* Rfc. Auto* Rfc. Auto* Rfc. Auto* Rfc. Auto* Rfc. Auto* Rfc. Rfc.** Walking Foot No No Twin Needle No No Presser Foot Pattern No. 70 stitches model 60 stitches model 50 stitches model 40 stitches model Application Auto Manual Auto Manual Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] Stitch Length [mm (inch.)]

Stitch Name

Pattern

29

29

29

Horizontal buttonholes 25 on thin and medium weight fabrics Secured buttoholes for 26 fabrics that have backings

5.0 (3/16) 5.0 (3/16)

3.0-5.0 (1/8-3/16) 3.05.0 (1/8-3/16)

0.4 (1/64) 0.4 (1/64) 1.0 (1/16) 1.5 (1/16) 0.5 (1/32) 0.5 (1/32) 0.5 (1/32) 1.4 (1/16)

0.2-1.0 (1/64-1/16) 0.21.0 (1/64-1/16) 0.52.0 (1/32-1/16) 1.03.0 (1/16-1/8) 0.31.0 (1/64-1/16) 0.31.0 (1/64-1/16) 0.31.0 (1/64-1/16) 0.0-4.0 (0-3/16)

30

30

30

31

31

31

Buttonholes for stretch or 6.0 3.06.0 27 knit fabrics (15/64) (1/8-15/64) Buttonholes for stretch 28 fabrics 29 Keyhole buttonholes for thick or furry fabrics Keyhole buttonholes for medium weight and thick fabrics Keyhole buttonholes for thick or furry fabrics Appliqu quilting, freemotion quilting, satin stitching, button sewing 6.0 3.06.0 (15/64) (1/8-15/64) 7.0 (1/4) 7.0 (1/4) 7.0 (1/4) 3.5 (1/8) 3.07.0 (1/8-1/4) 3.07.0 (1/8-1/4) 3.07.0 (1/8-1/4) 0.07.0 (01/4)

No

No

Buttonhole stitch

32

32

32

No

No

33

33

33

No

No

34

34

No

No

35

35

No

No

Zigzag stitch (for quilting)

40

40

No

Yes

*Auto Rfc.: Automatic Reinforcement **Rfc.: Reinforcement The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8 inch) (diameter + thickness of the button). Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.

a Reinforcement stitching

35

UTILITY STITCHES

The names of parts of buttonhole foot A, which is used for sewing buttonholes, are indicated below.

If the button does not fit in the button guide plate Add together the diameter and thickness of the button, and then set the button guide plate to the calculated length. (The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)

2 5 3 2 4
A
a b c d e Button guide plate Presser foot scale Pin Marks on buttonhole foot 5 mm (3/16 inch) a Presser foot scale b Length of buttonhole (Diameter + thickness of button) c 5 mm (3/16 inch)

a the buttonhole on the fabric.

Use chalk to mark the position and length of

Example: For a button with a diameter of 15 mm (9/16 inch) and a thickness of 10 mm (3/8 inch), the button guide plate should be set to 25 mm (1 inch) on the scale.

1 1 2
a 10 mm (3/8 inch) b 15 mm (9/16 inch) c a Marks on fabric b foot A, and then insert the button that will d

Attach buttonhole foot A.

Select a stitch.

Pull out the button guide plate of buttonhole be put through the buttonhole.
A

e buttonhole mark aligned with the red marks

Position the fabric with the front end of the

on the sides of the buttonhole foot, and then lower the presser foot lever. Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot.

The size of the buttonhole is set.

A

2 2
a Mark on fabric b Red marks on buttonhole foot

36

 When lowering the presser foot, do not push in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the buttonhole will not be sewn with the correct size.

h fabric, and cut the thread. i position.

Raise the presser foot lever, remove the

Raise the buttonhole lever to its original

j stitching to prevent the stitching from being

Insert a pin at the end of the buttonhole

cut, and then use a seam ripper to cut towards the pin and open the buttonhole.

a Do not reduce the gap.

Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as f possible.

a Seam ripper b Pin

For keyhole buttonholes, use a commercial eyelet punch to make a hole in the rounded end of the buttonhole, and then use the seam ripper to cut open the buttonhole.
a Buttonhole lever

The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot.

a Eyelet punch a Buttonhole lever b Bracket g your left hand, and then start sewing.

Gently hold the end of the upper thread in

When using the eyelet punch, place thick paper or some other protective sheet under the fabric before punching the hole in the fabric.

CAUTION
When opening the buttonhole with the seam ripper, do not place your hands in the cutting direction, otherwise injuries may result if the seam ripper slips.

Once sewing is completed, the machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops.

Memo
Before sewing buttonholes, check the stitch length and width by sewing a trial buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric.

37

UTILITY STITCHES

Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use a gimp thread. Hook the gimp thread onto the part of a buttonhole foot A shown in the illustration so that it fits into the grooves, and then loosely tie it.

Button sewing
Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine. Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached.
a button to be attached.

Measure the distance between the holes in the

b feed dog position lever, located at the rear of

Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide the the machine on the base, to (to the right as seen from the front of the machine).

b c

Attach buttonhole foot A. Select a stitch or .

d gimp thread.

Adjust the stitch width to the thickness of the Lower the presser foot lever and the

e buttonhole lever, and then start sewing. f thread to remove any slack.

a Feed dog position lever (as seen from the rear of the machine)

When sewing is finished, gently pull the gimp

The feed dogs are lowered.

c g thread to the wrong side of the fabric, and

Attach presser foot M.

Use a handsewing needle to pull the gimp then tie it.

h gimp thread remaining at the top end of the

With a seam ripper, cut the middle part of the buttonhole. Trim off any excess of the gimp thread.

1
a Button fitting foot M

38

d the fabric.

Place a button between the presser foot and

h (counterclockwise) to check that the needle

Turn the handwheel toward you

correctly goes into the two holes of the button. Adjust the stitch width to the distance between the button holes.

When attaching four-hole buttons, first sew the two holes closest to you. Then, slide the button so that the needle goes into the two holes toward the rear of the sewing machine, and then sew them in the same way.

3
e

Select a stitch with stitch

. (With models not provided , select stitch .)

f the distance between the holes in the button.

Adjust the stitch width so that it is the same as

CAUTION
When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the button, otherwise the needle may bend or break.
i

Set the stitch length to the shortest setting by g pressing the stitch length adjustment key.

Start sewing. After sewing for about 10 seconds at low speed, press (reverse/reinforcement stitch button) to sew reinforcement stitches.

j stitching to the wrong side of the fabric, and

Pull the upper thread at the end of the

then tie it with the bobbin thread. Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching.

k slide the feed dog position lever to

When you are finished attaching the button, (to the left as seen from the front of the machine) to raise the feed dogs.

39

UTILITY STITCHES

ZIPPER INSERTION
You can use the zipper foot to sew different types of zippers, and can easily position it to the right or left side of the needle. When sewing the right side of the zipper, attach the shank to the left pin of the zipper foot. When sewing the left side of the zipper, attach the shank to the right pin of the zipper foot.
Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching Rev.* Walking Foot ** Yes Twin Needle Yes (J) Presser Foot Pattern No. 70 stitches model 60 stitches model 50 stitches model 40 stitches model Application Auto Manual Auto Manual Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] Stitch Length [mm (inch.)]

Stitch Name

Straight stitch (center)

Pattern

01

01

01

Attaching zippers, basic 01 stitching, and sewing gathers or pintucks, etc.

2.5 (3/32)

0.25.0 (1/643/16)

*Rev.: Reverse

**Do not use reverse stitching.

d top on both sides. The needle should be

Sew from the bottom of the zipper toward the positioned on the zipper side of the foot for best results.

3
a Zipper foot b Right pin for sewing the left side of the zipper c Left pin for sewing the right side of the zipper a

Select stitch

b left or right pin of the zipper foot onto the

Lower the presser foot lever and fix either the shank.
e the foot by pressing the button located at the

To sew the opposite side of the zipper, release back of the presser foot, fit the zipper foot on the other side of the zipper and continue sewing using the other side notch.

Fold the edge of the material 2 cm (3/4 inch) c and place the zipper under the folded section. Lower the needle into the notch located either on the left or right side of the zipper foot.

CAUTION CAUTION
Turn the handwheel by hand to make sure the needle does not hit the presser foot before you start sewing. If you choose a different stitch, the needle will hit the presser foot and break the needle. You may also be injured. Make sure the needle does not hit the zipper during sewing. If the needle hits the zipper, the needle may break and you may be injured.

40

SEWING STRETCH FABRICS AND ELASTIC TAPE

Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached.
Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching Rfc. * Rfc. * Walking Foot No No Twin Needle Yes (J) Yes (J) Presser Foot Pattern No. 70 stitches model 60 stitches model 50 stitches model 40 stitches model Application Auto Manual Auto Manual Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] Pattern

Stitch Name

Stretch stitch

03

03

03

03

Sewing stretch fabrics and decorative stitching Overcasting on medium weight or stretch fabrics, attaching elastic, darning, etc.

1.0 (1/16) 5.0 (3/16)

1.03.0 (1/161/8) 1.57.0 (1/161/4)

2.5 (3/32) 1.0 (1/16)

1.04.0 (1/163/16) 0.24.0 (1/643/16)

3-point zigzag stitch

05

05

05

05

*Rfc.: Reinforcement Observe the corresponding precautions when performing each of the following stitching operations.

Stretch stitching
a b c

b c

Attach zigzag foot J. Select stitch .

Attach zigzag foot J. Select stitch .

d stretching the tape so that it is the same length

Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while

Sew the fabric without stretching it.

as the fabric. While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin nearest the front of the presser foot with your right hand.

Elastic attaching
When elastic tape is attached to the cuff or waist of a piece of clothing, the finished dimensions will be that of the stretched elastic tape. Therefore, it is necessary that a suitable length of the elastic tape be used.
a fabric.

Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the Pin the elastic tape to the fabric at a few points to make sure that the tape is uniformly positioned on the fabric.

CAUTION
2
a Elastic tape b Pin

When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch any pins, otherwise the needle may bend or break.

41

UTILITY STITCHES

APPLIQU, PATCHWORK AND QUILT STITCHING

The stitches that can be used for sewing appliqus, patchwork and quilts are described below.
Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching Rfc.* Rfc.* Rfc.* Rfc.* Rfc.* Rfc.* Rfc.* Rfc.* Rfc.* Rfc.* Rfc.* Rfc.* Walking Foot ** Yes Yes No No No Yes Yes No No No No No Twin Needle Yes (J) No Yes (J) No No No No Yes (J) Yes (J) Yes (J) No No Presser Foot Pattern No. 70 stitches model 60 stitches model 50 stitches model 40 stitches model Application Auto Manual Auto Manual Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] Stitch Length [mm (inch.)]

Stitch Name

Pattern

Zigzag stitch

04

04

04

04

Overcasting and attaching appliqus Appliqu quilting, freemotion quilting, satin stitching

3.5 (1/8) 3.5 (1/8) 3.5 (1/8) 1.5 (1/16) 1.5 (1/16) 5.5 (7/32) 1.5 (1/16) 4.0 (3/16)

0.07.0 (01/4) 0.07.0 (01/4) 2.55.0 (3/323/16) 0.55.0 (1/323/16) 0.55.0 (1/323/16) 0.07.0 (01/4) 0.07.0 (01/4) 0.07.0 (01/4)

1.4 (1/16) 1.4 (1/16) 2.5 (3/32) 1.2 (1/16) 1.2 (1/16) 1.6 (1/16) 1.6 (1/16) 1.2 (1/16)

0.04.0 (03/16) 0.04.0 (03/16) 1.64.0 (1/163/16) 1.04.0 (1/163/16) 1.04.0 (1/163/16) 0.25.0 (1/643/16) 0.25.0 (1/643/16) 0.24.0 (1/643/16)

Zigzag stitch (for quilting) Appliqu stitch

40

40

11

11

11

11 Appliqu stitching

J Appliqu stitch (for quilting) J

41

41

Attaching appliqus and binding Attaching appliqus and binding Piecing straight stitching (with a seam allowance of 6.5mm from the right edge of the presser foot) Piecing straight stitching (with a seam allowance of 6.5mm from the right edge of the presser foot)

42

42

J Piecing straight stitch J

37

37

38

38

14

14

14

Patchwork stitching and 14 decorative stitching Patchwork stitching, decorative stitching and sew15 ing overcasting on both pieces of fabrics, such as with tricot Patchwork stitching and 16 decorative stitching 31 Straight stitch quilting that looks hand-sewn Quilting background stitching (stippling)

Joining stitch

15

15

15

5.0 (3/16)

2.57.0 (3/321/4)

2.5 (3/32)

1.04.0 (1/163/16)

16

16

16

5.0 (3/16) 0.0 (0) 7.0 (1/4)

0.07.0 (01/4) 0.07.0 (01/4) 1.07.0 (1/161/4)

1.2 (1/16) 2.5 (3/32) 1.6 (1/16)

0.24.0 (1/643/16) 1.04.0 (1/163/16) 1.04.0 (1/163/16)

Hand-look quilting Quilting stippling

39

39

35

43

43

*Rfc.: Reinforcement

**Do not use reverse stitching.

b c

Attach zigzag foot J.

Appliqus
You can create an appliqu by cutting a different piece of fabric into a shape and using it as a decoration.
a

Select stitch

Baste the cut design to the fabric.

42

Carefully sew around the edge of the design.

Piecing
Sewing together two pieces of fabric is called piecing. The fabric pieces should be cut with a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance. Sew a piecing straight stitch 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) from either the right side or the left side of the presser foot.
a fabric that you wish to piece together.

Baste or pin along the seam allowance of the Attach zigzag foot J.

Cut away any fabric that is left outside the stitching.

b c

Select stitch

or

Sew with the side of the presser foot aligned d with the edge of the fabric.
f

Remove the basting, if necessary.

For a seam allowance on the right side Align the right side of the presser foot with the edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch .

Memo
Make reinforcing straight stitches at the beginning and the end of stitching.

CAUTION
Be careful that the needle does not hit a pin during sewing, as the needle can break. You may also be injured.
a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)

For a seam allowance on the left side Align the left side of the presser foot with the edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch .

Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching

a place it over the lower piece. b pattern spans both pieces.

Fold the edge of the top piece of fabric and Sew the two pieces of fabric together so the

a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)

Memo
To change the width of the seam allowance (the needle position), adjust the stitch width. For details, refer to Changing the needle position (page 33).

43

UTILITY STITCHES e foot, and then evenly guide the fabric while

Place one hand on each side of the presser sewing.

Quilting
Sandwiching batting between the top and bottom layers of fabric is called quilting. Quilts can easily be sewn using the optional walking foot and the optional quilting guide.

Note
Only use the walking foot with straight or zigzag stitches. Do not use other patterns. Reverse stitches cannot be sewn with the walking foot.
a

Note
When sewing with the walking foot, sew at a speed between slow and medium. Using the optional quilting guide Use the quilting guide to sew parallel stitches that are equally spaced.

Baste the fabric to be quilted.

b holder.

Remove the presser foot and the presser foot

For details, refer to Removing the presser foot holder (page 25).
c onto the needle clamp screw, lower the

Hook the connecting fork of the walking foot presser foot lever, and then use the presser foot holder screw to attach the walking foot to the presser bar.
a the rear of the walking foot or presser foot

Insert the stem of the quilter into the hole at holder.

Walking foot

Presser foot holder

a Connecting fork b Needle clamp screw c Presser foot holder screw

CAUTION
Use the screwdriver to tighten the screw securely. If the screw is loose, the needle may strike the presser foot and cause injury. Be sure to turn the handwheel toward the front of the machine to check that the needle does not strike the presser foot. If the needle strikes the presser foot, injury may result.
d

b guide aligns with the seam that has already

Adjust the stem of the quilter so that the quilt been sewn.

Select stitch

or

44

Free-motion quilting
With free-motion quilting, the feed dogs can be lowered (using the feed dog position lever) so that the fabric can be moved freely in any direction. The optional quilting foot is needed for free-motion quilting.

d rear of the machine on the base, to

Slide the feed dog position lever, located at the (to the right as seen from the front of the machine).

a holder.

Remove the presser foot and the presser foot

3
a Feed dog position lever (as seen from the rear of the machine)

For details, refer to Removing the presser foot holder (page 25).
b of the presser bar.

Align the quilting foot with the lower-left side The pin on the quilting foot should be positioned over the needle clamp screw.

The feed dogs are lowered.

e stitch. a Pin on quilting foot b Presser foot holder screw c Needle clamp screw c hand, and then tighten the presser foot holder

Turn on the sewing machine, and then select a

f move the fabric to follow the pattern.

Use both hands to hold the fabric taut, then Reinforcement stitches are sewn at the beginning and end of sewing.

Hold the quilting foot in place with your right

screw using the screwdriver in your left hand.

a Pattern a Presser foot holder screw g position lever to

CAUTION
Be sure to securely tighten the screws with the screwdriver, otherwise the needle may touch the presser foot, causing it to bend or break.

After sewing is finished, slide the feed dog (to the left as seen from the front of the machine) to raise the feed dogs. Normally, the feed dog position lever is positioned at .

45

UTILITY STITCHES

REINFORCEMENT STITCHING
Reinforce points that will be subject to strain, such as sleeve holes, inseams and pocket corners.
Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching Rfc.* Auto** Rfc. Walking Foot No No Twin Needle No No Presser Foot Pattern No. 70 stitches model 60 stitches model 50 stitches model 40 stitches model Application Auto Attaching sleeves, sewing inseams, sewing stretch fabrics and decorative stitching Manual Auto Manual Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] Stitch Length [mm (inch.)]

Stitch Name

Triple stretch stitch Bar tack stitch

Pattern

02

02

02

02

0.0 (0) 2.0 (1/16)

0.0-7.0 (0-1/4) 1.0-3.0 (1/16-1/8)

2.5 (3/32) 0.4 (1/64)

1.5-4.0 (1/16-3/16) 0.3-1.0 (1/64-1/16)

36

36

34

Reinforcing openings 30 and areas where the seam easily comes loose

*Rfc.: Reinforcement

**Auto Rfc.: Automatic Reinforcement

Triple stretch stitching

Use triple stretch stitching to reinforce sleeve holes and inseams.
a b c

Bar tack stitching

Bar tacks are used to reinforce points subject to strain, such as pocket corners and openings. As an example, the procedure for sewing bar tacks at pocket corners is described below.

Attach zigzag foot J.

Select stitch

Start sewing. For details, refer to Starting to sew (page 28).

a Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot

Determine the desired length of the bar tack. A to the desired length. (The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)

2 3

a Presser foot scale b Length of bar tack c 5 mm (3/16 inch)

A bar tack with a maximum length of about 28 mm (1-1/8 inch) can be sewn.
b

Attach buttonhole foot A.

46

Select stitch

e possible.

Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as

d pocket faces toward you, and then lower the

Position the fabric so that the opening of the presser foot lever so that the needle drops 2 mm (1/16 inch) in front of the pocket opening.

a Buttonhole lever

The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot.

1
a 2 mm (1/16 inch)

3
a Buttonhole lever b Bracket f your left hand, and then start sewing.

Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot. When lowering the presser foot, do not push in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the bar tack will not be sewn with the correct size.

Gently hold the end of the upper thread in

Once sewing is completed, the machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops.
g fabric, and cut the thread. h position.

Raise the presser foot lever, remove the

a Do not reduce the gap.

Raise the buttonhole lever to its original

Memo
If the fabric does not feed, for example, because it is too thick, increase the stitch length. For details, refer to Selecting stitching (page 27).

47

UTILITY STITCHES

DECORATIVE STITCHING
Various decorative stitches can be sewn with this sewing machine.
Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching Rfc.* Rfc.* Rfc.* Rfc.* Rfc.* Rfc.* Rfc.* Rfc.* Rfc.* Rfc.* Rfc.* Rfc.* Rfc.* Rfc.* Rfc.* Rfc.* Rfc.* Walking Foot No No No No No No No No No No No No No No No No No Twin Needle Yes (J) Yes (J) Yes (J) Yes (J) Yes (J) Yes (J) Yes (J) No Yes (J) Yes (J) Yes (J) No No No Yes (J) Yes (J) Yes (J) Presser Foot Pattern No. 70 stitches model 60 stitches model 50 stitches model 40 stitches model Application Auto Manual Auto Manual Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] Pattern

Stitch Name

J Fagoting stitch J

17

17

17

17

Fagoting, smocking and decorative stitching

5.0 (3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 4.0 (3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 4.0 (3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 4.0 (3/16) 4.0 (3/16) 5.5 (7/32) 5.0 (3/16) 3.5 (1/8) 6.0 (15/64) 5.0 (3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 5.0 (3/16)

0.0-7.0 (0-1/4) 2.5-7.0 (3/32-1/4) 0.0-7.0 (0-1/4) 2.5-7.0 (3/32-1/4) 0.0-7.0 (0-1/4) 0.0-7.0 (0-1/4) 2.5-7.0 (3/32-1/4) 0.0-7.0 (0-1/4) 0.0-7.0 (0-1/4) 0.0-7.0 (0-1/4) 1.5-7.0 (1/64-1/4) 1.5-7.0 (1/16-1/4 1.5-7.0 (1/16-1/4) 1.5-7.0 (1/16-1/4) 1.5-7.0 (1/16-1/4) 1.5-7.0 (1/16-1/4) 1.5-7.0 (1/16-1/4)

2.5 (3/32) 2.5 (3/32) 1.2 (1/16) 2.5 (3/32) 1.2 (1/16) 2.5 (3/32) 0.5 (1/32) 3.0 (1/8) 2.5 (3/32) 1.6 (1/16) 1.0 (1/16) 2.5 (3/32) 3.0 (1/8) 3.5 (1/8) 4.0 (3/16) 2.5 (3/32) 2.0 (1/16)

1.0-4.0 (1/16-3/16) 1.0-4.0 (1/16-3/16) 0.2-4.0 (1/64-3/16) 1.0-4.0 (1/16-3/16) 0.2-4.0 (1/64-3/16) 0.2-4.0 (1/64-3/16) 0.1-1.0 (1/64-1/16) 2.0-4.0 (1/16-3/16) 1.0-4.0 (1/16-3/16) 1.0-4.0 (1/16-3/16) 0.2-4.0 (1/64-3/16) 1.6-4.0 (1/16-3/16) 1.5-4.0 (1/16-3/16) 1.5-4.0 (1/16-3/16) 1.5-4.0 (1/16-3/16) 1.5-4.0 (1/16-3/16) 1.5-4.0 (1/16-3/16)

18

18

18

18 Fagoting, smocking and decorative stitching Patchwork stitching and decorative stitching

14

14

14

14

Joining stitch

15

15

15

Patchwork stitching, decorative stitching and sewing 15 overcasting on both pieces of fabrics, such as with tricot Patchwork stitching and 16 decorative stitching

16

16

16

Shell tuck stitch Satin scallop stitch

12

12

12

12 Sell tuck stitching

13

13

13

13 Scallop stitching

19

19

19

19 Decorative stitching

20

20

20

20 Decorative stitching

21

21

21

Decorative stitching

22

22

22

Decorative stitching and 21 elastic-attaching Lace sewing, decorative 22 hemming, heirloom stitching, etc. 23 Decorative hemming, heirloom stitching, etc. Decorative hemming on thin, medium weight and plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc. Decorative hemming on thin, medium weight and 24 plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc. Decorative hemming on thin, medium weight and plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc. Decorative hemming on medium weight and thin, plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.

N Decorative stitch N

23

23

23

24

24

24

25

25

25

26

26

26

27

27

27

28

28

28

*Rfc.: Reinforcement

48

Fagoting
Stitching across an open seam is called fagoting. It is used on blouses and children's clothing. This stitch is more decorative when thicker thread is used.
a along their seams.

Scallop stitching
The wave-shaped repeating pattern that looks like shells is called scalloping. It is used on the collars of blouses and to decorate the edges of handkerchiefs.
a b

Use an iron to fold the two pieces of fabric

Attach monogramming foot N.

Baste the two pieces of fabric, separated by b about 4.0 mm (3/16 inch), onto thin paper or a sheet of water-soluble stabilizer.

Select stitch

3 1

c sure not to sew directly on the edge of the

Stitch along the edge of the fabric, making fabric.

2
a Thin paper or water soluble stabilizer b Basting stitching c 4 mm (3/16 inch) c d e

Attach zigzag foot J. For better results, apply spray starch onto the fabric and press with a hot iron before it is sewn.
d

Select stitch

or

Set the stitch width to 7.0 mm (1/4 inch). For details, refer to Selecting stitching (page 27).

Trim along the stitches.

f aligned along the center of the two pieces of

Sew with the center of the presser foot fabric.

Be careful not to cut the stitches.

After sewing is finished, remove the paper.

49

UTILITY STITCHES g

Pull out the threads for the straight stitches.

Smocking
The decorative stitch created by stitching or embroidering over gathers is called smocking. It is used to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs. The smocking stitch adds texture and elasticity to fabric.
a

Attach zigzag foot J. Select the straight stitch, and then adjust the the thread tension. For details, refer to Selecting stitching (page 27) and Thread tension (page 29).

b stitch length to 4.0 mm (3/16 inch) and loosen

Shell tuck stitching

The gathers that look like shells are called shell tucks. They are used to decorate trims, the front of blouses or cuffs made of thin fabrics.
a

c (3/8 inch).

Sew parallel stitching at intervals of 1 cm

Fold the fabric along the bias.

a 1 cm (3/8 inch)

Do not sew reverse/reinforcement stitches or cut the thread. Pull the bobbin threads to create gathers. d Smooth the gathers by ironing them.

b c

Attach zigzag foot J.

Select stitch tension.

, and then increase the thread

For details, refer to Selecting stitching (page 27).

d slightly off the edge of the fabric.

Sew while making sure that the needle drops

1
e f

Select stitch

or

Stitch between the straight stitches.

a Needle drop point

50

e down to one side.

Unfold the fabric, and then iron the tucks

Heirloom stitching
When sewing with the wing needle, the needle holes are enlarged, creating a lace-like decorative stitch. This is used to decorate hems and tablecloths on thin or medium weight fabrics in addition to plain weave fabrics.

CAUTION
The needle threader cannot be used with the wing needle, otherwise the sewing machine may be damaged. Manually pass the thread through the eye of the needle from the front to the back. For details, refer to Upper threading (page 16).
a

Joining
Decorative bridging stitches can be sewn over the seam allowance of joined fabrics. This is used when making a crazy quilt.
a

Insert the wing needle.

Attach zigzag foot J.

b of fabric, and then open up the seam

Sew together the right sides of the two pieces allowances. Use a 130/705H 100/16 wing needle. For details on inserting a needle, refer to Replacing the needle (page 21).

2 1 1 3
a Wrong side of fabric b 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance c Straight stitch c b c

Attach monogramming foot N.

Select stitch

or

CAUTION
Select a stitch width of 6.0 mm (15/64 inch) or less, otherwise the needle may bend or break. After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.
d

Select stitch

or

d faces up, and then sew over the seam with the

Turn the fabric over so that the right side

center of the presser foot aligned with the seam.

Start sewing.

a Right side of fabric

51

APPENDIX

4 APPENDIX
STITCH SETTINGS
Applications, stitch lengths and widths and whether the twin needle can be used are listed for utility stitches in the following table.

CAUTION
Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged. When using the twin needle, be sure to attach zigzag foot J, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

Utility stitches
Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching Rev. * Rev. * Rfc. ** Rfc. ** Rev. * Rfc. ** Rfc. ** Rfc. ** Rfc. ** Walking Foot *** Yes *** Yes No No No Twin Needle No Yes (J) No No No Presser Foot Pattern No. 70 stitches model 60 stitches model 50 stitches model 40 stitches model Application Auto Manual Auto Manual Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] Stitch Length [mm (inch.)]

Stitch Name

Pattern

Left Straight

00

00

00

Basic stitching, sewing 00 gathers or pintucks, etc. Attaching zippers, basic 01 stitching, and sewing gathers or pintucks, etc. Attaching sleeves, sew02 ing inseams, sewing stretch fabrics and decorative stitching stretch fabrics 03 Sewing and decorative stitching Overcasting and attach04 ing appliqus Overcasting on medium 05 weight or stretch fabrics, attaching elastic, darning, etc. on thin or 06 Overcasting medium weight fabrics Overcasting on thick fab07 rics 08 Overcasting on stretch fabrics

0.0 (0)

0.07.0 (01/4)

2.5 (3/32) 2.5 (3/32) 2.5 (3/32) 2.5 (3/32) 1.4 (1/16) 1.0 (1/16) 2.0 (1/16) 2.5 (3/32) 2.5 (3/32)

0.25.0 (1/643/16) 0.25.0 (1/643/16) 1.54.0 (1/163/16) 1.04.0 (1/163/16) 0.04.0 (03/16) 0.24.0 (1/643/16) 1.04.0 (1/163/16) 1.04.0 (1/163/16) 0.54.0 (1/323/16)

Center

01

01

01

Triple stretch stitch

02

02

02

0.0 (0) 1.0 (1/16) 3.5 (1/8) 5.0 (3/16) 3.5 (1/8) 5.0 (3/16) 5.0 (3/16)

0.07.0 (01/4) 1.03.0 (1/161/8) 0.07.0 (01/4) 1.57.0 (1/161/4) 2.55.0 (3/323/16) 2.55.0 (3/323/16) 0.07.0 (01/4)

Stretch stitch

03

03

03

**** Yes No (J) **** *** Yes Yes (J) **** Yes No (J)

Zigzag stitch

04

04

04

3-point zigzag stitch

05

05

05

06

06

06

Overcasting stitch

07

07

07

08

08

08

**** Yes No (J)

*Rev.: Reverse **Rfc.: Reinforcement ***Do not use reverse stitching. ****Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.

52

70 stitches model 60 stitches model 50 stitches model 40 stitches model

Stitch Name

Application Auto Manual Auto Manual

R Blind hem stitch R

09

09

09

09

Blind hem stitching on medium weight fabrics Blind hem stitching on stretch fabrics

0 (0) 0 (0) 3.5 (1/8) 4.0 (3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 4.0 (3/16)

3 3

2.0 (1/16) 2.0 (1/16) 2.5 (3/32) 2.5 (3/32) 0.5 (1/32) 1.2 (1/16)

1.03.5 (1/161/8) 1.03.5 (1/161/8) 1.64.0 (1/163/16) 0.24.0 (1/643/16) 0.1-1.0 (1/64-1/16) 0.24.0 (1/643/16)

No

No

10

10

10

10

3 3

No

No

Appliqu stitch Shell tuck stitch Satin scallop stitch

11

11

11

11 Appliqu stitching

2.55.0 (3/323/16) 0.07.0 (01/4) 2.5-7.0 (3/32-1/4) 0.07.0 (01/4)

** Yes (J) ** Yes (J) ** Yes (J) ** Yes (J) ** Yes (J)

No

12

12

12

12 Shell tuck stitching

No

13

13

13

13 Scallop stitching

No

14

14

14

Patchwork stitching and 14 decorative stitching Patchwork stitching, decorative stitching and sew15 ing overcasting on both pieces of fabrics, such as with tricot stitching and 16 Patchwork decorative stitching Fagoting, smocking and 17 decorative stitching 18 Fagoting, smocking and decorative stitching

Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching Rfc. * Rfc. * Rfc. * Rfc. * Rfc. * Rfc. *

Walking Foot

Twin Needle

Presser Foot

Pattern No.

Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]

Stitch Length [mm (inch.)]

Pattern

No

Joining stitch

15

15

15

5.0 (3/16)

2.57.0 (3/321/4)

2.5 (3/32)

1.04.0 (1/163/16)

No

Rfc. *

16

16

16

5.0 (3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 4.0 (3/16) 4.0 (3/16) 5.5 (7/32) 5.0 (3/16) 3.5 (1/8) 6.0 (15/64) 5.0 (3/16)

0.07.0 (01/4) 0.0-7.0 (0-1/4) 2.5-7.0 (3/32-1/4) 0.0-7.0 (0-1/4) 0.0-7.0 (0-1/4) 0.0-7.0 (0-1/4) 1.5-7.0 (1/64-1/4) 1.5-7.0 (1/16-1/4) 1.5-7.0 (1/16-1/4) 1.5-7.0 (1/16-1/4)

1.2 (1/16) 2.5 (3/32) 2.5 (3/32) 3.0 (1/8) 2.5 (3/32) 1.6 (1/16) 1.0 (1/16) 2.5 (3/32) 3.0 (1/8) 3.5 (1/8)

0.24.0 (1/643/16) 1.0-4.0 (1/16-3/16) 1.0-4.0 (1/16-3/16) 2.0-4.0 (1/16-3/16) 1.0-4.0 (1/16-3/16) 1.0-4.0 (1/16-3/16) 0.2-4.0 (1/64-3/16) 1.6-4.0 (1/16-3/16) 1.5-4.0 (1/16-3/16) 1.5-4.0 (1/16-3/16)

** Yes (J) ** Yes (J) ** Yes (J)

No

Rfc. *

J Fagoting stitch J

17

17

17

No

Rfc. *

18

18

18

No

Rfc. *

19

19

19

19 Decorative stitching

No

No

Rfc. *

20

20

20

20 Decorative stitching

** Yes (J) ** Yes (J) ** Yes (J)

No

Rfc. *

21

21

21

Decorative stitching

No

Rfc. *

Decorative stitch

22

22

22

stitching and 21 Decorative elastic-attaching Lace sewing, decorative 22 hemming, heirloom stitching, etc. Decorative hemming, 23 heirloom stitching, etc. Decorative hemming on thin, medium weight and plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.

No

Rfc. *

23

23

23

No

No

Rfc. *

24

24

24

No

No

Rfc. *

25

25

25

No

No

Rfc. *

*Rfc.: Reinforcement

**Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.

53

APPENDIX

70 stitches model 60 stitches model 50 stitches model 40 stitches model

Stitch Name

Application Auto Decorative hemming on thin, medium weight and plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc. Decorative hemming on thin, medium weight and plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc. Decorative hemming on thin, medium weight and plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc. Manual Auto Manual

26

26

26

24

5.0 (3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 5.0 (3/16)

1.5-7.0 (1/16-1/4) 1.5-7.0 (1/16-1/4) 1.5-7.0 (1/16-1/4) 3.0-5.0 (1/8-3/16) 3.05.0 (1/8-3/16)

4.0 (3/16) 2.5 (3/32) 2.0 (1/16) 0.4 (1/64) 0.4 (1/64) 1.0 (1/16) 1.5 (1/16) 0.5 (1/32) 0.5 (1/32) 0.5 (1/32) 0.4 (1/64) 1.6 (1/16) 1.6 (1/16) 2.5 (3/32) 1.4 (1/16)

1.5-4.0 (1/16-3/16) 1.5-4.0 (1/16-3/16) 1.5-4.0 (1/16-3/16) 0.2-1.0 (1/64-1/16) 0.21.0 (1/64-1/16) 0.52.0 (1/32-1/16) 1.03.0 (1/16-1/8) 0.31.0 (1/64-1/16) 0.31.0 (1/64-1/16) 0.31.0 (1/64-1/16) 0.31.0 (1/64-1/16) 0.25.0 (1/643/16) 0.25.0 (1/643/16) 1.04.0 (1/163/16) 0.04.0 (03/16)

*** Yes No (J) *** Yes No (J) *** Yes No (J)

Decorative stitch

27

27

27

28

28

28

29

29

29

Horizontal buttonholes 25 on thin and medium weight fabrics Secured buttonholes for 26 fabrics that have backings

No

No

30

30

30

No

No

31

31

31

Buttonholes for stretch or 6.0 3.06.0 27 knit fabrics (15/64) (1/8-15/64) Buttonholes for stretch 28 fabrics 29 Keyhole buttonholes for thick or furry fabrics Keyhole buttonholes for medium weight and thick fabrics Keyhole buttonholes for thick or furry fabrics 6.0 3.06.0 (15/64) (1/8-15/64) 7.0 (1/4) 7.0 (1/4) 7.0 (1/4) 2.0 (1/16) 5.5 (7/32) 1.5 (1/16) 0.0 (0) 3.5 (1/8) 3.07.0 (1/8-1/4) 3.07.0 (1/8-1/4) 3.07.0 (1/8-1/4) 1.03.0 (1/16-1/8) 0.07.0 (01/4) 0.07.0 (01/4) 0.07.0 (01/4) 0.07.0 (01/4)

No

No

Buttonhole stitch

32

32

32

No

No

33

33

33

No

No

34

34

No

No

35

35

No

No

Bar tack stitch

36

36

34

Reinforcing openings 30 and areas where the seam easily comes loose Piecing straight stitching (with a seam allowance of 6.5mm from the right edge of the presser foot) Piecing straight stitching (with a seam allowance of 6.5mm from the right edge of the presser foot)

No

No

J Piecing straight stitch J

37

37

No

Yes

38

38

No

Yes

Hand-look quilting Zigzag stitch (for quilting)

39

39

35

31 Straight stitch quilting that looks hand-sewn Appliqu quilting, freemotion quilting, satin stitching, button sewing

No

No

40

40

No

Yes

*Rfc.: Reinforcement **Auto Rfc.: AutomaticReinforcement ***Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.

54

Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching Rfc. * Rfc. * Rfc. * Auto** Rfc. Auto** Rfc. Auto** Rfc. Auto** Rfc. Auto** Rfc. Auto** Rfc. Auto** Rfc. Auto** Rfc. Rfc. * Rfc. * Rfc. * Rfc. *

Walking Foot

Twin Needle

Presser Foot

Pattern No.

Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]

Stitch Length [mm (inch.)]

Pattern

70 stitches model 60 stitches model 50 stitches model 40 stitches model

Stitch Name

Application Auto Manual Auto Manual

J Appliqu stitch (for quilting) J

41

41

Attaching appliqus and binding Attaching appliqus and binding Quilting background stitching (stippling)

1.5 (1/16) 1.5 (1/16) 7.0 (1/4) 7.0 (1/4) 7.0 (1/4) 7.0 (1/4) 7.0 (1/4) 7.0 (1/4) 7.0 (1/4) 7.0 (1/4) 7.0 (1/4) 7.0 (1/4) 5.0 (3/16) 7.0 (1/4) 7.0 (1/4) 7.0 (1/4)

0.55.0 (1/323/16) 0.55.0 (1/323/16) 1.07.0 (1/161/4) 0.07.0 (01/4) 0.07.0 (01/4) 0.07.0 (01/4) 0.07.0 (01/4) 0.07.0 (01/4) 0.07.0 (01/4) 0.07.0 (01/4) 0.07.0 (01/4) 0.07.0 (01/4) 0.07.0 (01/4) 0.07.0 (01/4) 0.07.0 (01/4) 0.07.0 (01/4)

1.2 (1/16) 1.2 (1/16) 1.6 (1/16) 2.5 (3/32) 2.0 (1/16) 2.5 (3/32) 2.5 (3/32) 2.0 (1/16) 2.0 (1/16) 1.6 (1/16) 2.5 (3/32) 2.0 (1/16) 2.0 (1/16) 2.5 (3/32) 1.6 (1/16) 1.4 (1/16)

1.04.0 (1/163/16) 1.04.0 (1/163/16) 1.04.0 (1/163/16) 0.24.0 (1/643/16) 0.24.0 (1/643/16) 0.24.0 (1/643/16) 0.24.0 (1/643/16) 0.24.0 (1/643/16) 0.24.0 (1/643/16) 0.24.0 (1/643/16) 0.24.0 (1/643/16) 0.24.0 (1/643/16) 0.24.0 (1/643/16) 0.24.0 (1/643/16) 0.24.0 (1/643/16) 0.24.0 (1/643/16)

No

No

42

42

No

No

Quilting stippling

43

43

No

No

44

44

36

32 For decoration, etc.

No

No

45

45

37

33 For decoration, etc.

No

No

Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching Rfc. * Rfc. * Rfc. * Rfc. * Rfc. * Rfc. *

Walking Foot

Twin Needle

Presser Foot

Pattern No.

Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]

Stitch Length [mm (inch.)]

Pattern

46

46

38

For decoration, etc.

No

No

47

For decoration, etc.

No

No

Rfc. *

48

47

39

For decoration, etc.

No

No

Rfc. *

49

48

40

For decoration, etc.

No

No

Rfc. *

Decorative stitch

50

For decoration, etc.

No

No

Rfc. *

51

49

41

34 For decoration, etc.

No

No

Rfc. *

52

For decoration, etc.

No

No

Rfc. *

53

For decoration, etc.

No

No

Rfc. *

54

For decoration, etc.

No

No

Rfc. *

55

50

For decoration, etc.

No

No

Rfc. *

56

51

For decoration, etc.

No

No

Rfc. *

*Rfc.: Reinforcement

55

APPENDIX

70 stitches model 60 stitches model 50 stitches model 40 stitches model

Stitch Name

Application Auto Manual Auto Manual

57

52

42

For decoration, etc.

7.0 (1/4) 7.0 (1/4) 7.0 (1/4) 7.0 (1/4) 7.0 (1/4) 7.0 (1/4) 7.0 (1/4) 7.0 (1/4) 7.0 (1/4) 6.0 (15/64) 6.0 (15/64) 6.0 (15/64) 6.0 (15/64)

2.57.0 (3/321/4) 2.57.0 (3/321/4) 2.57.0 (3/321/4) 2.57.0 (3/321/4) 2.57.0 (3/321/4) 2.57.0 (3/321/4) 2.57.0 (3/321/4) 2.57.0 (3/321/4) 0.07.0 (01/4) 0.07.0 (01/4) 0.07.0 (01/4) 0.07.0 (01/4) 0.07.0 (01/4)

0.4 (1/64) 0.4 (1/64) 0.4 (1/64) 0.4 (1/64) 0.4 (1/64) 0.4 (1/64) 0.4 (1/64) 0.4 (1/64) 1.6 (1/16) 1.4 (1/16) 2.5 (3/32) 1.4 (1/16) 1.4 (1/16)

0.11.0 (1/641/16) 0.11.0 (1/641/16) 0.11.0 (1/641/16) 0.11.0 (1/641/16) 0.11.0 (1/641/16) 0.11.0 (1/641/16) 0.11.0 (1/641/16) 0.11.0 (1/641/16) 0.24.0 (1/643/16) 0.24.0 (1/643/16) 0.24.0 (1/643/16) 0.24.0 (1/643/16) 0.24.0 (1/643/16)

** Yes (J) ** Yes (J) ** Yes (J) ** Yes (J) ** Yes (J) ** Yes (J) ** Yes (J) ** Yes (J)

No

58

For decoration, etc.

No

59

53

43

35 For decoration, etc.

No

N Satin stitches N

60

54

44

36 For decoration, etc.

No

61

55

45

For decoration, etc.

No

62

56

46

37 For decoration, etc.

No

63

For decoration, etc.

No

64

For decoration, etc.

No

65

For decoration, etc.

No

No

66

For decoration, etc.

No

No

Crossstitches

67

57

47

38 For decoration, etc.

No

No

68

58

48

For decoration, etc.

No

No

69

59

49

39 For decoration, etc.

No

No

*Rfc.: Reinforcement

**Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.

56

Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching Rfc. * Rfc. * Rfc. * Rfc. * Rfc. * Rfc. * Rfc. * Rfc. * Rfc. * Rfc. * Rfc. * Rfc. * Rfc. *

Walking Foot

Twin Needle

Presser Foot

Pattern No.

Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]

Stitch Length [mm (inch.)]

Pattern

MAINTENANCE
Simple sewing machine maintenance operations are described below.

Cleaning the machine surface

If the surface of the machine is dirty, lightly soak a cloth in neutral detergent, squeeze it out firmly, and then wipe the surface of the machine. After cleaning it once with a wet cloth, wipe it again with a dry cloth.

Cleaning the bobbin case

Sewing performance will suffer if dust collects in the bobbin case; therefore, it should be cleaned periodically.

CAUTION
Make sure you unplug the machine before you clean it. Otherwise, you may get an electric shock or be injured.
a b

CAUTION
Unplug the power supply cord before cleaning the machine, otherwise injuries or an electric shock may occur.

Switch the machine off and unplug it.

Raise the needle and the presser foot.

c clamp screw to remove the presser-foot

Loosen the presser-foot screw and the needle holder and the needle.

d and then slide it toward you to remove the

Grasp both sides of the needle plate cover, needle plate cover.

a Needle plate cover

57

APPENDIX

h needle plate, and then slide the cover back on.

e Grasp the bobbin case, and then pull it out.

Remove the bobbin case.

Put the tabs on the needle plate cover into the

a Bobbin case f remove any dust from the race and its

Use the cleaning brush or a vacuum cleaner to surrounding area.

CAUTION
Never use a bobbin case that is scratched, otherwise the upper thread may become tangled, the needle may break or sewing performance may suffer. For a new bobbin case (part code: XC3152-021), contact your nearest authorized service center. Make sure that you fit the bobbin case properly, otherwise the needle may break.

a Cleaning brush b Race

Do not put oil on the bobbin case.

g on the bobbin case aligns with the spring.

Insert the bobbin case so that the projection

a Projection b Spring

58

TROUBLESHOOTING
If the machine stops working properly, check the following possible problems. If the problem it still there, contact your retailer or the nearest authorised service center. Symptom Possible cause The machine is not plugged in. The sewing machine does not work. The bobbin winder shaft is pushed to the right. You have not used the foot controller properly. The needle is not fitted properly. The needle clamp screw is loose. The needle is bent or blunt. You have not used the right combination of fabric, thread and needle. The presser foot you are using is not appropriate for the type of stitch that you want to sew. The needle breaks. You are pulling the fabric too much. How to put it right Plug the machine in. Move the bobbin winder shaft to the left. Use the foot controller properly. Fit the needle properly. Use the screwdriver to firmly tighten the screw. Replace the needle. Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric. Attach the presser foot that is correct for the type of stitch that you want to sew. Lightly guide the fabric. Reference page 9 page 9 page 12, 13 page 10 page 21 page 22 page 21 page 20 page 52 page 29

The main power switch is turned off. Turn on the main power switch.

The upper thread tension is too tight. Loosen the upper thread tension. the needle plate. The area around the hole in the nee- Replace Contact your retailer or the nearest dle plate is scratched. authorized service center. The area around the hole in the presser foot is scratched. The bobbin case is scratched. You have not used a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. You have not threaded the upper thread properly. (for example, you have not fitted the spool properly, or the thread has come out of the guide above the needle.) There are knots or tangles in the thread. The upper thread breaks. The needle is not appropriate for the thread you are using. Replace the presser foot. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center. Replace the bobbin case. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center. Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. Only use a bobbin that has been designed for this machine.

page 11

Correct the upper threading.

page 16

Remove any knots or tangles. Choose a needle that is appropriate for the type of stitch. Remove the tangle thread. If the thread is tangled in the bobbin case, clean the bobbin case. Replace the needle.

page 20 page 29 page 57 page 21

The upper thread tension is too tight. Loosen the upper thread tension. The thread is tangled, for example, in the bobbin case. The needle is bent or blunt.

59

APPENDIX

Symptom

Possible cause You have not inserted the needle properly.

How to put it right Insert the needle properly.

Reference page 21

the needle plate. The area around the hole in the nee- Replace Contact your retailer or the nearest dle plate is scratched. authorised service center. The upper thread breaks. The area around the hole in the presser foot is scratched. The bobbin case is scratched, or has a burr on it. You have not used a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. You have not wound the bobbin thread properly. The bobbin is scratched or does not turn smoothly. The lower thread is tangled or breaks. The thread is tangled. You have not used a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. Bobbin is set incorrectly. You have not threaded the upper thread properly. You have not wound the bobbin thread properly. You have not threaded the right combination of thread and needle for the fabric you are using. The thread ten- You have not attached the pressersion is incorrect. foot holder properly. The thread tension is incorrect. You have not used a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. Bobbin is set incorrectly. You have not threaded the upper thread properly or fitted the bobbin properly. You have not fitted the spool properly. The fabric is wrinkled. You have not used the right combination of fabric, thread and needle. The needle is bent or blunt. If you are sewing thin fabric, the stitch is too thick. The thread tension is incorrect. Replace the presser foot. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorised service center. Replace the bobbin case. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorised service center. Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. Only use a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. Wind the bobbin thread properly. Replace the bobbin. Remove the tangled thread and clean the bobbin case. Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. Only use a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. Reset the bobbin thread correctly. Correct the upper threading. Wind the bobbin thread properly. Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric. Attach the presser-foot holder properly. Adjust the tension of the upper thread. Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. Only use a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. Reset the bobbin thread correctly. Thread the upper thread and wind the bobbin thread properly. Fit the spool properly. Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric. Replace the needle. Sew with stabiliser material under the fabric. Adjust the tension of the upper thread.

page 11 page 11 page 57 page 11 page 14, 15 page 16 page 11 page 20 page 25 page 29 page 11 page 14, 15 page 14, 15, 16 page 20 page 21 page 31 page 29

60

Symptom

Possible cause You have not threaded the upper thread properly. You have not used the right combination of fabric, thread and needle.

How to put it right Correct the upper threading. Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric. Replace the needle. Insert the needle properly. Remove the needle plate cover and clean the plate and the bobbin case. Clean the bobbin case. Correct the upper threading. Replace the bobbin case. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center. Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. Only use a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. Raise the needle either by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark on the wheel points up or by pressing (needle position button) once or twice. Insert the needle properly. Attach the presser foot that is correct for the type of stitch that you want to sew. Adjust the tension of the upper thread. Remove the tangle thread. If the thread is tangled in the bobbin case, clean the bobbin case. Slide the feed dog position lever to . Lengthen the stitch length. Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric. Remove the tangle thread. If the thread is tangled in the bobbin case, clean the bobbin case. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center.

Reference page 16 page 20 page 21 page 57 page 57 page 16

Stitches are skipped.

The needle is bent or blunt. You have not inserted the needle properly. Dust has accumulated under the needle plate or in the bobbin case. Dust has built up in the feed dogs or in the bobbin case. You have not threaded the upper thread properly. The bobbin case is scratched. You have not used bobbin that has been designed for this machine.

There is a highpitched noise while sewing.

page 11

The needle threader can not be used.

You have not moved the needle holder to its highest position.

page 16

You have not inserted the needle properly. The presser foot that you are using is not correct for the type of stitch. The stitch is not sewn correctly. The thread tension is incorrect. The thread is tangled, for example, in the bobbin case. The feed dogs are lowered. The stitch is too fine. The fabric does not feed. You have not used the right combination of fabric, thread and needle. The thread is tangled, for example, in the bobbin case. The sewing light bulb does not come on. The sewing lamp is damaged.

page 21 page 52 page 29 page 57 page 38, 45 page 27 page 20 page 57

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APPENDIX

ERROR MESSAGES
If an operation is performed incorrectly before the sewing machine is set up, an error message appears on the operation panel. Follow the instructions indicated in the table. If you press the stitch selection key or do the operation correctly while the error message is displayed, the message disappears. Error Message Probable Cause The foot controller was pressed (or the start/stop button was pressed if the foot controller is not connected) and the reverse/reinforcement stitch button was pressed while the presser foot is raised. A stitch other than the buttonhole or bar tack stitch was selected and the foot controller was pressed (or the start/stop button was pressed if the foot controller is not connected) while the buttonhole lever is lowered. The buttonhole or bar tack stitch was selected and the foot controller was pressed (or the start/stop button was pressed if the foot controller is not connected) while the buttonhole lever is raised. The reverse/reinforcement stitch button or needle position button was pressed while the bobbin winder shaft is moved to the right. Solution Lower the presser foot lever before continuing the operation. Raise the buttonhole lever before continuing the operation. Lower the buttonhole lever before continuing the operation. Move the bobbin winder shaft to the left before continuing the operation.

Disconnect the foot controller, and then press the start/ The start/stop button was pressed while the foot constop button. Otherwise, troller was connected. operate the machine by using the foot controller. The motor locked up because the thread is tangled. Remove the tangled thread before continuing the operation.

Note
If error message F1 through F8 appears in the LCD while the sewing machine is being used, the machine may be malfunctioning. Contact your nearest authorized service center.

Operation beep (for models equipped with the operation beep)

Each time a key is pressed you will hear one beep. If a non-functioning key is pressed or an incorrect operation is performed you will hear two or four beeps (only for models equipped with the operation beep). If a key is pressed (correct operation) One beep sounds. If an incorrect operation is performed or a non-functioning key is pressed Two or four beeps sound. If the machine locks up, for example, because the thread is tangled The sewing machine beeps for four seconds and the machine automatically stops. Be sure to check for the cause of the error, and correct it before continuing to sew.

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INDEX
Numerics
3-point zigzag stitch .......................................................32

M
main parts ........................................................................5 main power switch...........................................................9 monogramming.......................................................49, 51

A
accessories .......................................................................8 appliqus .......................................................................42

N
needle ............................................................................20 needle bar thread guide....................................................6 needle clamp screw ..................................................6, 22 needle plate .....................................................................6 needle plate cover..........................................................57 needle position...............................................................33 needle position button......................................................6 needle threader ..............................................................17

B
bar tack ..........................................................................46 basic stitching ................................................................33 blind hem stitching.........................................................34 bobbin ...........................................................................14 bobbin case.............................................................14, 57 bobbin cover.............................................................6, 14 bobbin winder..................................................11, 59, 62 button sewing.................................................................38 buttonhole foot...............................................................36 buttonhole lever .................................................6, 37, 47 buttonhole sewing..........................................................35

O
openings ........................................................................46 operation beep ...............................................................62 operation buttons .............................................................6 operation panel ................................................................7 optional accessories .........................................................8 overcasting stitches ........................................................32

C
crazy quilt stitching ........................................................43

D E

P
patchwork stitching ........................................................43 piecing ...........................................................................43 pocket corners................................................................46 presser foot................................................................6, 24 presser foot holder.....................................................6, 25 presser foot lever .......................................................6, 16 pre-tension disk..............................................................11

Darning...................................................................32, 41

elastic tape .....................................................................41 error messages................................................................62 extra spool pin ...............................................................23 eyelet punch ..................................................................37

F
fagoting ..........................................................................49 fast bobbin winding........................................................12 feed dog position lever ...................................................45 feed dogs...................................................................6, 45 flat bed attachment....................................................7, 31 foot controller ...........................................................8, 28 free-arm style .................................................................31 free-motion quilting........................................................45

quick-set bobbin .......................................................6, 15 quilting...........................................................................44 quilting foot....................................................................45 quilting guide .................................................................44

R
reinforcement stitching...................................................46 reverse/reinforcement stitch button...................................6

H
handwheel .......................................................................5 heirloom stitching ..........................................................51

S
scallop stitching .............................................................49 seam ripper ....................................................................37 sewing machine needles ................................................20 sewing speed controller....................................................6 sleeve holes....................................................................46 smocking........................................................................50 spool pin .................................................................11, 16 start/stop button.........................................................6, 28 stitch length....................................................................27 stitch selection key ...........................................................7 stitch settings..................................................................52 stitch width ....................................................................27 straight stitch ..................................................................33 stretch fabrics .................................................................31

J
joining............................................................................51 joining stitch ...........................................................42, 48

L
LCD .................................................................................7

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T
thick fabrics....................................................................30 thin fabrics .....................................................................31 thread cutter...................................................................29 thread guide ...................................................................16 thread tension ................................................................29 trial sewing.....................................................................30 triple stretch stitch ..........................................................33 troubleshooting ..............................................................59 twin needle ....................................................................22

U
upper tension-control dial ..............................................29 upper threading..............................................................16

W
walking foot ...................................................................44 wing needle ...................................................................51

zigzag stitch .....................................................30, 32, 42 zipper foot......................................................................40 zipper Insertion ..............................................................40

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English 885-S33/S34/S36/S37 XC8835-021 Printed in China