chapter

10

Collars
INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .179 COLLAR TERMS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .179 COLLAR STAND AND ROLL TYPES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .180 COLLAR CLASSIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .180 BASIC SHIRT COLLAR FOUNDATION . . . . . . . . . . . . .181 Straight Collar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .181 Undercollar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .182 Folded Basic Collar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .183 Collar Variations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .183 Fit Problems of the Collar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .184 PETER PAN COLLARS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .185 Principle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .185 Relationship of the Collars Stand, Width, and Neckline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .185 Three Basic Peter Pan Collars . . . . . . . . . . . . . .185 Peter Pan with 1-Inch Stand (Full-Roll) . . . . . . .186 Peter Pan with 1/2-Inch Stand (Partial-Roll) . .187 Peter Pan with Flat-Roll . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .187 SAILOR COLLAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .188 Basic Sailor Collar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .188 Sailor with Extension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .189 Sailor with Inset . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .190 COLLARS WITH DEEP , OPEN NECKLINES . . . . . . . . . .191 Collar for V-Neck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .191 Collar for Stylized Neckline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .191 MANDARIN COLLAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .192 Basic MandarinDesign 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .192 Mandarin Collar Variations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .193 COLLAR WITH STAND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .194 WIDE COLLAR AND STAND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .195 COLLAR AND STAND AWAY FROM THE BASIC NECKLINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .196 ALL-IN-ONE COLLAR AND STAND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .197 ROLL COLLARS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .198 Turtle Neck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .198 Roll Collar with Cutaway Neck . . . . . . . . . . . .199 COLLAR DESIGN VARIATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .200 SELF-EVALUATION TEST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .200

178

COLLARS

179

INTRODUCTION
A collar encircles the neck and frames the face, offering great opportunities for design variations. Collars may be developed close to or away from the neckline. They may be wide, narrow, flat, or high and with or without an attached stand. The collar edge may be stylized or may follow a basic shapeit may be round, curved, scalloped, square, or pointed (long or short) in any direction. The choice of a collar design should complement and enhance the style and purpose of the garment. Other collar shapes, such as shawl and lapel collars, will be discussed in Chapter 22 with jackets and coats. Hoods are in Chapter 24.

COLLAR TERMS
Neckline edge. The side of the collar that is stitched to the neckline of the garment. Collar edge. The outer edge or design of the collar. Collar stand. The height at which the collar rolls over itself. Roll line. The fold-over at the collar stand.

Collar edge (collar style)

Roll line Stand Neckline edge

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Chapter 10

COLLAR STAND AND ROLL TYPES

The roll line of the three collars illustrated in Figures 1, 2, and 3 indicates where the height of the stand stops and the roll line begins.

Figure 1 1-Inch Stand (Full-Roll)

Figure 2 1/2-Inch Stand (Partial-Roll)

Figure 3 1/8-Inch Stand (Flat-Roll)

COLLAR CLASSIFICATIONS
Regardless of the collar design, the neckline edge generally has one of two basic shapes: 1. Contrary to the neckline curve of the form or garment. This type of collar will spring open when unbuttonedconvertible (Figures 4 and 5; prototypethe basic shirt collar). Closely follows the curve of the neckline of the form or garment. This type of collar will stay in place when unbuttoned nonconvertible (Figure 6; prototypethe Peter Pan collar).
Figure 5 Figure 6

(a)

Convertible

2.

Neck

Figure 4

Non-convertible (b)

Neck

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181

BASIC SHIRT COLLAR FOUNDATION

The basic convertible collar may be worn open or closed. The collar has a 1-inch stand at the center back, and its width varies from 2 1/2 to 3 inches. It can be developed with a seam along the collar edge or folded and cut as either a one-piece or two-piece (center back seam) collar. The grainline may be straight, crosswise, or bias, depending upon the design effect desired when cut in stripes, checks, or plaids. The basic collar can be a base for other designs.

Measurements Needed Center back neck: __________________ Center front neck: __________________ Total: __________________

sure Mea
M s ea e ur

BACK

FRONT

Figure 1 Square a line in the center of the paper. Mark and label the following locations: A to B 3 inches (collar width). B to C Total neck measurement. Label C. B to D Center back to shoulder. Mark for notch.

Figure 1
A

3" B Center back D Shoulder notch C Center front

Figure 2 Square a line up from C. Mark E 1/2 inch from C. Draw a curved line from E blending with D. Square a line from A passing 1 inch or more from guideline C. Label F. Draw a line from E to F. Draw a grainline and cut the collar from the paper.

Figure 2
Collar edge A Roll line E B D C 1/2 " F

3"

Straight Collar
Figure 3 Develop a straight collar using instructions given in Figures 1 and 2, except that the neckline edge is straight. The collars width may be increased to 3 or 4 inches.

Figure 3
A C.B. Collar edge

Straight collar Neckline edge B D C

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Chapter 10

Undercollar
The undercollar pattern is made shorter in width than the uppercollar. Two types are given to prevent the undercollar from rolling out beyond the stitchline. The undercollar is drafted from the uppercollar. (The broken line in the illustrations indicates the original collar.) The undercollar should be notched 1/4 inch out from each side of the center back at the neckline edge. The following instructions apply to the development of all undercollars.

Figure 4 Trace the uppercollar. Trim 1/8 inch and more for bulky fabrics. Square a short line at the center back and gradually draw the line to zero at the collar point.

Figure 4
1/8 "

C.B.

Undercollar

C.B.

Figure 5 On collars with an uneven styleline, trim the excess from the neckline edge of the collar. Follow the same instructions as given in Figure 4.

Figure 5

Undercollar

Figure 7 The collar is cut on the fold.

Figure 7
Paper

C.B.

Figure 6 The collar is illustrated with a center back seam. The grainline can be drawn straightgrain, crossgrain, or bias.

Figure 6

COLLARS

183

Folded Basic Collar

Figure 1 Fold paper lengthwise. Square a guideline down from fold in the center of paper.

Place the collar on paper with center back on guideline and collar edge along the fold line. Trace the collar. Cut out the collar, ending at center guideline.

Figure 1
Fold line of paper Guideline C.B. Collar edge

Figure 2 Unfold the paper. Refold the collar and paper on the guideline.

Trace the collar. (Completed collar is shown.) Cut from paper; notch; draw grainline.

Figure 2 Fold line of paper

Collar edge (fold line) Guideline C.B. Figure 3

Collar Variations
Figure 3 Collar designs can vary from the basic collar. Collar variations begin and blend approximately in line with the shoulder notch.

Collar blends here

C.B.

184

Chapter 10
Figure 1 Figure 2

Fit Problems of the Collar

Figure 1 Problem: Collars edge lies above the stitchline at the back neck. Solution: Increase the collars edge. Cut three slash lines between the shoulder and the center back to the neckline. Figure 2 Allow collar to fall 1/4 inch below stitchline of center back. Use tape to secure the slashed areas and measure the opened spaces.

Pattern Correction
Figure 3 Cut three slash lines from shoulder to center back neck. Spread to equal measured spaces. Trace and cut pattern. Test fit.
Figure 4 Figure 5

Figure 3 Collar edge

Neckline e

dge

Figure 4 Problem: Collar falls loosely around the garment. Solution: Decrease the collars edge. Cut three slash lines to the neckline between the shoulder and the center. Figure 5 Overlap the slashed parts to take up the excess and pin. Remove collar from the garment.

Figure 6 Overlap

Pattern Correction
Figure 6 Slash pattern, overlap equal amounts, and tape. Trace and cut the pattern. Test fit.

C.B.

COLLARS

185

PETER PAN COLLARS

The Peter Pan series introduces the principle of the full-roll, partial-roll, and flat-roll collars. Apply this principle to all collar designs that stay in place when unbuttoned.

Principle
The neckline edges of nonconvertible collars are similar in shape to the curve of the forms neckline. The closer in similarity, the lower is the stand of the collar; the less similarity, the higher is the stand.

Relationship of the Collars Stand, Width, and Neckline

The height of a collar stand is controlled by the amount of overlap at the shoulder tips of the front and back patterns. This patternmaking technique is called the 4 to 1 rule and is illustrated in the development of the Peter Pan collars. Compare the neckline edge of each collar to that of the basic neckline. Compare the width of each collar to the height of the collar stand. AFull-roll: 1-inch stand; 2 3/4 inches wide BPartial-roll: 1/2-inch stand; 3 1/2 inches wide CFlat-roll: 1/8-inch stand; any width (closest to the shape of the basic neckline) The width of the collar is limited by the desired height of the collar stand.
n Ce ter
C B A Center front 1/8 " stand (flat roll) Figure 3

ba
Shoulder guideline

ck

Three Basic Peter Pan Collars

By design, the collar of the Peter Pan is rounded. Figures 1, 2, and 3 illustrate the height of the collar stand and the collar width. The front part of a collar can be designed to any length or width but must blend with the back collar at the shoulderline.

1 " stand (full roll) Figure 1

1/2 " stand (partial roll) Figure 2

186

Chapter 10
Figure 1
Cente r bac k

Peter Pan with 1-Inch Stand (Full-Roll)

Pattern Plot and Manipulation
Figure 1 Trace the back pattern. Place the front pattern on traced copy, touching the neckline and overlapping the shoulder tips 4 inches. Trace the neckline and part of the center lines. A point will appear at shoulder/neck.

Touch

4 " Overlap

Figure 2 Extend the center back neck 1/8 inch. Draw the neckline through the point ending 1/4 inch below center front. Draw style collar parallel with the neckline. Cut the collar from the paper. Mark a notch at shoulder/neck and where noted. Cut from paper and true to the neckline of the garment. Allow an extra 1/16 inch beyond the collar point.

Figure 2

ba enter

ck

1/8 " 2 1/2 " Blend Trim 1/4 " Center front

Figure 3 Trace the collar on fold of the paper. Mark center back notches. Cut from paper.

Figure 4 Undercollar Trace the collar on the fold. Remove the pattern. Trim 1/8 inch (shaded area) as illustrated. Mark two notches 1/4 inch apart at center back on the neckline edge and one notch on collars edge.
Figure 4

Figure 3
Paper Undercollar

C.B.

C.B.

Paper 1/8 "

Center front

COLLARS

187

Peter Pan with 1/2-Inch Stand (Partial-Roll)

Pattern Plot and Manipulation
Figure 1 Trace the back pattern. Place the front pattern on traced copy, touching the neckline and overlapping the shoulder tips 2 inches. Trace the neckline and part of the center lines.
Figure 1

Peter Pan with Flat-Roll

Pattern Plot and Manipulation
Figure 1 Overlap shoulder tip 1/2 inch and repeat the process.
Figure 1

rb te en C

Ce

nte

rb

ac

ac

Touch Touch 1/2 " Overlap

2 " Overlap

Center front

Complete the Collar Complete the Collar

Figure 2 Complete the collar as illustrated.
Figure 2
Center ba ck

Figure 2 Complete the collar as illustrated.

Figure 2

1/8 " 3 1/2 " Collar can be of any width

1/8 "

Blend Trim 1/4 " Center front

Blend Trim 1/2 " Center front

Center front

C en r te c ba k

188

Chapter 10

SAILOR COLLAR
The sailor collar was inspired by the sailors uniform and is based on instructions of the nonconvertible collar.

Basic Sailor Collar

Design 1

Figure 1

C en

"

te rb ac k

8" 1/8 "

Design Analysis: Design 1

Design 1 features a sailor collar that is squared in back and ends at a V-neckline in front. The tie is detachable. For the pattern development of designs with an extension for button and buttonholes, see page 189, Figure 4.
Touch

1/2 " Overlap A

Pattern Plot and Manipulation

Figure 1 With front and back necks touching, overlap shoulder tips 1/2 inch. Trace center front, center back, and neckline. Remove patterns. A to B is the depth of the V-neck. Develop collar as illustrated. Square a line from center back to shoulder, and from the shoulder, connect with B. Blend shoulder area. Cut collar from paper.
6"

B
Center front

COLLARS Figure 2 Completed Collar Trace collar on fold. Cut from paper and unfold. Draw grainline (broken line undercollar). If the center front is cut on fold, the collar at center back should be split and seams added.
Figure 2 Sailor collar

189

Sailor with Extension

Figure 4 Repeat instructions for Design 1 with the following exceptions: Draw a parallel line 1 inch from center front. Draw a line from shoulder neck past B to the extension point and complete the collar. Mark buttonhole placement. (See Chapter 16.)

Figure 4

A
Trim

FRONT

6"

Center front

Figure 3 Completed Bodice on Fold Establish sailor neckline on bodice. Cut from paper. (Tie not illustrated.) Trace center back, draw extension mark buttonhole placement. (See Chapter 16.)
1 " Extension Figure 3

FRONT

6"

B
Center front (fold)

190

Chapter 10

Sailor with Inset

Design Analysis: Design 2
Design 2 is a stylized version of the sailor collar. The inset section in front controls the deep neckline. The sailor tie is part of the collar.
Design 2

Pattern Plot and Manipulation

Figure 1 Collar Develop the neckline from A, B, C, to D. Inset noted as angle lines. Extend C line 6 inches past B (tie). Square a line in from E and up to shoulder. Continue the line to the length of the tie 2 inches from B. Shape the tie ends. Cut from paper. Save wedge section from inset.
Figure 1

"
12 "

F 1/8 " D Blend C 1/2 "

Figure 2 Inset Trace wedge-shaped inset sections on fold (lined area). Draw a 1-inch extension on one side for opening and for button or snaps. Cut on fold and add 1/4-inch seams.
Figure 2
Inset 1 " extension

6"

6"

2"

C.F.

6"

Figure 3
Tie ring 2" 2"

Figure 3 Tie Ring Draw a 2-inch square. A tie ring can be attached to garment underneath the tie. Pull tie through ring.

COLLARS

191

COLLARS WITH DEEP , OPEN NECKLINES

Figure 1 C en te rb

Design Analysis: Designs 1 and 2

Designs 1 and 2 both illustrate collars on an open neckline. In Design 1, the collar with a flat-roll passes shoulder at neck of the garment. In Design 2, the collar with a 1/2-inch stand crosses at mid-shoulder.

ac k
3 1/2 "

Collar for V-Neck

Overlap 1/2 " A

6"

Design 1

Center front

Figure 1 Place front and back patterns together on the paper, matching shoulder at neck. Overlap shoulder tips 1/2 inch. Develop collar as illustrated. Cut collar from bodice. To complete bodice pattern, trace and trim A-B section. Trace collar and modify for undercollar. See page 187, Figure 2.

Collar for Stylized Neckline

Figure 2
Ce nte
7" 8"

rb

ac k

Design 2

2"

4 " wide collar 7"

Figure 2 Before overlapping shoulder, plan neckline style on front and back bodice patterns using measurement given. Trim 1/2 " neckline (shaded area). Place front and back patterns on paper, matching shoulder at new neckline. Overlap shoulder tips 2 inches and trace neckline, center back, and center front. Remove pattern. Develop collar as illustrated. Cut collar from paper. To complete the pattern, use the front 1" and back pattern with trimmed neckline. Bust level Trace the collar and modify for the undercollar. See page 187, Figure 2.

192

Chapter 10

MANDARIN COLLAR
A Mandarin collar (also called military, Nehru, and Chinese collar) is a close-fitting, stand-up collar. It separates in front and varies in width from 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inches on the average. It is the base for other collars, stands, and combination collar-and-stand variations. The collar may meet at center front, be overlapped and buttoned, or be extended to any point along the neckline. The Mandarin can be developed either close to or away from the neck. It can be curved, blunted, pointed, or extended for a partial folded-over collar effect. The neckline measurement is needed to draft these collars.

Design 1

Design 2

Design 3

Basic MandarinDesign 1
Measurements Needed Center back neck: __________________ Center front neck: __________________ Total: __________________
Mea

sure

M re su ea

BACK

FRONT

Pattern Plot and Manipulation

Figure 1 Figure 1 Square a line in the center of the paper equal to A the following measurements: 1 1/2 " AB 1 1/2 inches (collar stand) BC Total back and front neck. Label C. B BD Center back to shoulder measurement Center back Mark for shoulder notch.

D Shoulder notch

C Center front

COLLARS Figure 2 Square up 1/2 inch from C. Mark and label E. Draw a curved line from E to D, completing the neckline edge of collar. Square a 1 1/2-inch line at right angles to E-D. Label F. Draw a line from A to F, parallel with B-D-E line. Figure 3 Cut collar from paper. To complete the pattern, trace on fold. Draw grainline and notch center back. Complete the pattern and trace to make a duplicate copy for the collar facing.
Figure 3 Figure 2
F Collar edge A C.B.

193

1 1/2 " E 1/2 " C

B D

Cut on fold

Mandarin collar

Paper

Mandarin Collar Variations

The following examples are variations of the Mandarin foundation. Trace the pattern and modify as illustrated: Curved Neckline (Design 1) Draw curves as shown. Wing Collar (Design 3) Extend line 1 1/4 inches at center front. Blend to collar band as shown.

Design 2

Design 3

Cut on fold

C.B.

Cut on fold

C.B.

194

Chapter 10

COLLAR WITH STAND

Design 1 Design 2 Design 3

Figure 2 Trace Mandarin stand. (The broken line indicates #1 part of the collar not needed.) Draw the collar, using measurements given. Notch the mid-point of the upper edge of the collar.
Figure 2

Upper edge 2" C.B.

C.F .

2 1/2 "

1/2 " Space Collar edge

Design Analysis
A collar is attached to the top edge of a Mandarin stand that has an extension for the button and buttonhole (also referred to as a shirt collar). To develop the Mandarin foundation, see pages 192 and 193. The pattern for Design 3 is illustrated.

Figure 3 Draw slash lines. Cut from paper.

Figure 3

Slash

Figure 1 Trace Mandarin stand. Square out 1-inch extension from A and B. Connect. Draw curved line. Mark buttonhole placement as shown.
Figure 1
A

Collar edge

Cut on fold

Figure 4 Cut slash lines to, not through, the collars upper edge. Place center back on fold. Spread sections 1" B 1/8 inch. Trace (spreading allows collar to lie on Extension garment without riding upward at center back.) Cut from paper.

Figure 4

1/8 " 1/8 " Paper

Slash

C.B.

Pattern Plot and Manipulation

COLLARS

195

WIDE COLLAR AND STAND

Designs featuring wide collars with stand either follow the basic neckline, as illustrated, or stand away from the basic neckline. Both collar and stand are based on the nonconvertible collar principle.

Figure 2 Trace collar and fold. Cut from paper and retrace for undercollar. (See page 186, Figure 4, for guidance.)

Figure 2 Paper

Pattern Plot and Manipulation

Figure 1 With the front and back necks touching, overlap shoulder tips 2 inches. Trace center back, center front, and neckline. Draw the neckline, ending 1/2 inch below center front. Draw the collar parallel with the neckline, ending 1 1/2 inches from the center front line. (The collar may be as wide as desired, and the front collar may be of any shape.)
Figure 1

Collar

Figure 3 To draft the stand, use the measurement of the neckline edge of the new collar. See pages 193 and 194 for guidance. True collar to stand (allow 1/8 inch for ease).
Figure 3 X Trim 1/2 " Overlap 2 " Y

Cut on fold

1 1/2 "

196

Chapter 10 Figure 2 Lower the neckline 1 inch at center front. Draw the collar parallel with the new neckline, ending approximately 2 inches from center front. (Collar can be as wide as desired.)
Figure 2

COLLAR AND STAND AWAY FROM THE BASIC NECKLINE

Design Analysis
The distance from the basic neckline and the style of the collar may be varied to create different versions of this design.

Measure new neckline

Y Z 2"

1"

Pattern Plot and Manipulation

Figure 1 Draw the neckline on the front and back pattern. Trace the back pattern. Transfer the new neckline as illustrated. Place the front pattern on the back pattern, with new necklines touching (mark X). Overlap shoulder tips 2 inches. Trace the front pattern and trace the new neckline. Remove the pattern and pencil in the new neckline.
Figure 1

Figure 3 Trace collar on fold. Cut the collar from paper and retrace for the undercollar. (See page 186, Figure 4, for guidance.)

Figure 3
Paper

COLLAR

4 " 2 " Overlap Pivotal point

X

Figure 4 For guidance in developing the collar stand, see pages 190 and 191.

3/4 "

1"

Figure 4 C.B. 1" 3/4 "

1/2 "

COLLARS

197

ALL-IN-ONE COLLAR AND STAND

Figure 1 Trace Mandarin collar with extension. (See page 194, Figure 1.) Extend a line up from center front and center back equal to the collar width plus 1/4 inch. Draw a line parallel with the bottom edge of the Mandarin. Extend 3/4 inch beyond center front line to form point of the collar. Connect with center front of stand. Draw slash lines.
Figure 1
3/4 " Collar edge
line line line Slash

1 3/4 "

Slash

1 1/2 "

Neckline edge

Figure 2 Cut slash lines to, not through, neckline edge. Place center back on the fold. Spread 1/8 inch to increase collars edge (prevents collar from riding upward at center back). Trace. Blend the collar edge.

Figure 2
Paper 1/8 " 1/8 " 1/8 "

Button placement

Slash

Center back

198

Chapter 10

ROLL COLLARS
Bias-fold collar bands can be developed for any neckline (basic or for a wider neckline). The finished length, however, should be slightly shorter than the area covered to compensate for the stretch of the bias fabric. The collar width may be planned for either a folded bias band or a band folded back on itself. Cut the band equal to the front and back neck measurement. Stretch the collarband slightly when stitching to the neck of the garment. Trim the overhang and reduce the pattern by the same amount, or use the formula given in the instructions that follow.

Turtle Neck
Design 1

Figure 3 Turtle Band Fold paper. Square a line from the fold to equal front and back measurement (A, B, C). Mark B for notch placement at shoulder. Draw parallel lines, spaced 3 inches apart for single fold (1 1/2 inches finished width), or 6 1/2 inches apart for double fold (3 1/4 inches finished width indicated by broken line). Connect ends. Draw the bias grainline and complete the pattern for test fit.
Figure 3 Paper Center front A B C 6 1/2 "

3"

Pattern Plot and Development

Figures 1 and 2 Neckline Modification: Trace pattern and adjust neck as illustrated. Blend new neckline. Neckband: (shortened to offset stretch) Measure AB, less 1/4 inch (front neck). Record. Measure BC, less 1/4 inch (back neck). Record.

Figure 4 The center back can be closed with loops and buttons.
Figure 4
Loops

Figure 1 1/8 " C B

Figure 2 B 1/8 " A 1/4 "

BACK

Center front

FRONT

Figure 5 The center back can also be left open when folded back onto itself.

Center back

Figure 5
Fold-over

COLLARS

199

Roll Collar with Cutaway Neck

Paper Preparation
Figure 2 Fold the paper on a 45-degree angle. Draw a parallel line 6 inches up from fold using the A, B, C measurement (includes seam allowance and fold-over). Cut paper to this measurement (center front).
Figure 2

Paper

Cut

Equals ABC

6"

Design Analysis: Design 2

In Design 2 a bias band encircles a cutaway neckline that drops deep at center back. Figure 1 Place shoulder lines together, matching at neck, and draw the necklines. Cut from the paper. Measure the total neckline from A to B to C. The front and back bodice patterns are complete. Add seams, grain, and pattern information.
Figure 1 C Figure 3b
Ce nte ac rb " 10 k
ROLL COLLAR

Figures 3a, b Fold and trace the other side of the roll collar (Figure 3a). Notch at center front. Draw the grainline at a 45-degree angle from the fold. This will place the roll collar on a true bias (Figure 3b).

Figure 3a
Fold

Trace

1/2 "

B 2 1/2 "

Shoulder A 1/2 " Center front

Stitching guide: Pin or baste the bias roll collar to the neckline pulling slightly to remove stretch. Overhang at the center back of the collar is to be trimmed, allowing a 1/2-inch seam. Trim the excess from the collar pattern. Mark shoulder notches and at center front.

200

Chapter 10

COLLAR DESIGN VARIATIONS

SELF-EVALUATION TEST
Match column 1 with the correct answer from column 2 Review the chapter. Check your answers on page 805. Column 1 1. Collars edge 2. Neckline collar edge 3. Roll line 4. Collar stand 5. Undercollar 6. Scalloped collars edge 7. Loose collar edge 8. Collars edge rolls upward 9. Peter Pan collar 10. Shoulder tip overlap 1/8 inch 11. Neckline measurement 12. Mandarin collar 13. Convertible collar 14. Nonconvertible collar Column 2 ___ Base for collar and stand ___ Reduce collars edge ___ Needed to draft collars ___ Collar made narrow ___ Sewn to neck of garment ___ Follows curve of the neckline ___ Flat roll ___ Increase collars edge ___ Non-convertible ___ Style of the collar ___ Collars neckline edge is modified ___ Fold-over at collars stand ___ Does not follow neckline edge ___ Height of back collar