Ocean Waves

We use European Space Agency Envisat data to present the first observational evidence that a Northern Hemisphere tsunami triggered Antarctic ice-shelf calving more than 13 000 km away. The Honshu tsunami of 11 March 2011 traversed the Pacific Ocean in <18 hours where it impinged on the Sulzberger Ice Shelf, resulting in the calving of 125 km2 of ice from a shelf front that had previously been stable for >46 years. This event further illustrates the growing evidence of ocean-wave impact on Antarctic calving and emphasizes the teleconnection between the Antarctic ice sheet and events as far away as the Northern Hemisphere.

Electromagnetic generators (EMGs) and triboelectric nanogenerators (TENGs) are the two most powerful approaches for harvesting ambient mechanical energy, but the effectiveness of each depends on the triggering frequency. Here, after systematically comparing the performances of EMGs and TENGs under lowfrequency motion (<5 Hz), we demonstrated that the output performance of EMGs is proportional to the square of the frequency, while that of TENGs is approximately in proportion to the frequency. Therefore, the TENG has a much better performance than that of the EMG at low frequency (typically 0.1-3 Hz). Importantly, the extremely small output voltage of the EMG at low frequency makes it almost inapplicable to drive any electronic unit that requires a certain threshold voltage (∼0.2-4 V), so that most of the harvested energy is wasted. In contrast, a TENG has an output voltage that is usually high enough (>10-100 V) and independent of frequency so that most of the generated power can be effectively used to power the devices. Furthermore, a TENG also has advantages of light weight, low cost, and easy scale up through advanced structure designs. All these merits verify the possible killer application of a TENG for harvesting energy at low frequency from motions such as human motions for powering small electronics and possibly ocean waves for large-scale blue energy.

For 11 days in January 2001, the Conrad Blucher Institute for Surveying and Science, Texas A&M University-Corpus Christi, in collaboration with the College of Marine Science, University of South Florida, deployed a pair of 25-MHz CODAR Ocean Systems HF-Radars on the West Florida Shelf over an array of six acoustic Doppler current profilers. The radar footprint had a maximum range of 60 km offshore, and it included mooring locations between the 10 m to 30 m isobaths. We examine, using a variety of metrics, the correlation between the surface currents measured remotely by the HF-Radar and the subsurface currents measured by the ADCP's, which were either bottom-or surface buoymounted. Qualitative comparisons are generally good for this inner-shelf environment where the wind-driven current magnitudes were less than about 40 cm/s. The scalar regression analysis shows correlation coefficients (R) of 0.8 to 0.9 for the alongshelf components but 0.6 or less for the cross-shelf components. Complex vector correlation produces correlation values of 0.76 to 0.90 and a consistently clockwise veering from the radar-measured currents to the ADCPmeasured ones ranging from of 1.3° to 5.2°. The alongshelf surface currents measured by the radar are about 30% larger than those of the ADCPs measured 2 to 3 m below the surface according to standard deviations and linear regression slopes.

The 133-km barrier island chain extending east from Fire Island Inlet to Montauk Point, New York, provides an excellent setting for evaluating sand management practices which have had a significant impact on the local (order of 1-2 km) and regional (133-km) sediment budget. Through the development of a regional sediment budget representative of 1979 to 1995, sediment transport pathways and magnitudes are estimated. Evaluation of the sediment budget in context with sand management during this period highlights those practices that have been influential in the evolution of the barrier island and inlet system.

The purpose of this Coastal and Hydraulics Engineering Technical Note (CHETN) is to investigate the basic physics and numerical code of GenCade by running a series of simplified test cases and comparing the results to another numerical shoreline evolution model and an analytical solution. The complementary numerical code is the widely used shoreline evolution model LITPACK. The analytical model is the original solution derived by . The underlying assumption in all three approaches is a beach profile of constant shape so that shoreline change is driven by long-shore transport processes and a combination of independent sediment sources or sinks (e.g., sea level change, subsidence). The CHETN presents a descriptive overview of the theory behind the models followed by an inter-comparison using a set of four test cases involving shoreline change in the vicinity of idealized coastal structures and a beach nourishment. GenCade shows good agreement with LITPACK, and both models compare well to the analytical solution for these idealized cases. The GenCade results indicate that the underlying numerical code and basic physical process are consistent with other widely used shoreline modeling systems. INTRODUCTION: Mathematical modeling of shoreline change is a powerful engineering technique for understanding and predicting the long-term evolution of a beach . Mathematical models provide a quantitative means of describing shoreline evolution observed at groins, jetties, and detached breakwaters ).

Chapter 1 Introduction configured breakwater project was recently constructed in Cameron Parish in the western part of Louisiana and provides a model for designing a breakwater project at Grand Isle. This task reviewed the observed morphological response at the Cameron Parish project and made comparisons to the proposed project at Grand Isle. The most comprehensive study of Grand Isle is the 1979 U.S. Army Corps of Engineers report on Grand Isle. This report contains extensive information on coastal erosion, coastal processes, and sand resources, and designs for the Corps of Engineers beach erosion and hurricane protection project which was built in 1984. Combe and Soileau (1987) reported on construction details and the successful performance of this project during and after the unusual 1985 hurricane season in which Hurricanes Danny, Elena, and Juan impacted the island. A report related to this investigation of proposed breakwaters at Grand Isle was prepared by engineering firm HNTB under contract for the Louisiana Department of Natural Resources, Coastal Restoration Division (1993). This report reviews Louisiana State Senate Concurrent Resolution Number 83, which urges the Wetlands Conservation and Restoration Authority, the Department of Transportation and Development, and the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers to examine the feasibility and advisability of placing breakwater protection along the coast of Grand Isle, Louisiana. The report provides a good summary of coastal projects constructed at Grand Isle between 1951 and 1991, reviews the performance of the breakwater project at Holly Beach, Louisiana, and proposes a conceptual segmented detached breakwater project design and layout for Grand Isle. This chapter describes procedures and results of the wave data preparation and nearshore wave refraction task of the study. This task consisted of three steps and resulted in the preparation of wave information that was subsequently employed in the numerical shoreline evolution simulations presented in Chapter 3. The first step involved the transformation of hindcast estimates of the offshore wave climate to the Grand Isle project area. In the second step, the time history of wave information at the Grand Isle project area was statistically analyzed and 22 categories of potential wave approach and wave period were identified. The results of the statistical analysis were also used to select a 4-year-long representative time history of wave conditions from the 20-year-long hindcast database. The third step involved the use of a numerical wave refraction model to obtain representative nearshore wave conditions in shallow water at fixed points alongshore. No long-term wave measurements are available for the vicinity of the Grand Isle project. Therefore, the required wave information was generated by means of the Wave Information Study (WIS) hindcast technique. The WIS provides a 20-year hindcast for the U.S. Gulf of Mexico coast for the years 1956 through 1975. The Gulf of Mexico hindcast wave information ) includes a 20-year time history of wave height, wave direction, and wave period at 3-hr intervals for both sea and swell at 50 stations along the Gulf of Mexico coasts of Florida, Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana, and Texas. Hindcast Station 21 located offshore of Grand Isle at 28.5 deg north latitude and 90.0 deg west longitude was selected for use in this study. Phase 111 transformation. Wave information at WIS Station 21 is representative of wave conditions in 300 ft of water at this geographic location, however, since the location is gulfward of the Mississippi River delta which blocks wave energy approaching from the east, these wave conditions Chapter 2 Wave Refraction Analysis Chapter 3 Long-Term Shoreline Change Chapter 3 Long-Term Shoreline Change zone). If an energy window is open (no diffraction source) on one side, the diffraction coefficient for that side is set equal to 1.0.

This Coastal and Hydraulics Engineering Technical Note (CHETN) describes a major upgrade of the Sediment Budget Analysis System (SBAS) to include the capability to create and manage regional sediment budgets. The SBAS is a PC-based application for calculating and displaying local and regional sediment budgets including single and multiple inlets, estuaries, bays, and adjacent beaches. The SBAS runs on the Windows 95, 98, and NT operating systems. Features of the original SBAS Version 1.0 are discussed in Rosati and Kraus (1999a), and these features are also supported in SBAS Version 1.02, which covers regional processes. This CHETN introduces recent upgrades that support regional applications. A tutorial is available as discussed at the end of this technical note.

The 133-km barrier island chain extending east from Fire Island Inlet to Montauk Point, New York, provides an excellent setting for evaluating sand management practices which have had a significant impact on the local (order of 1-2 km) and regional (133-km) sediment budget. Through the development of a regional sediment budget representative of 1979 to 1995, sediment transport pathways and magnitudes are estimated. Evaluation of the sediment budget in context with sand management during this period highlights those practices that have been influential in the evolution of the barrier island and inlet system.

The U.S. Marine Corps’ Force Design roadmap has inspired great debate about the purpose, role, and strength of the Marine Corps in an increasingly contentious and complex world. On the surface, Force Design appears to be an attempt to make the Marine Corps relevant in a rapidly changing operational environment that has seen the rise of powerful nation-states opposed to a United States-led world order. Rather than debating whether Force Design is best for the Marine Corps, this article delves into actionable recommendations for how to improve the Force Design roadmap given the Marine Corps’ responsibilities in both competition and warfare, which include the use of the new stand-in forces concept to foil further annexations of territory by major powers as well as the more traditional responsibilities of maintaining forward presence and conducting amphibious operations in war.

High-resolution multibeam sonar and state-of-theart data processing and visualization techniques have been used to quantify the evolution of seafloor morphology and the degree of burial of instrumented mines and mine-shapes as part of the U.S. Office of Naval Research (ONR, Arlington, VA) mine burial experiment at the Martha's Vineyard Coastal Observatory (MVCO, Edgartown, MA). Four surveys were conducted over two years at the experiment site with a 455-kHz, Reson 8125 dynamically focused multibeam sonar. The region is characterized by shore-perpendicular alternating zones of coarse-grained sand with 5-25-cm-high, wave orbital-scale ripples, and zones of finer grained sands with smaller (2-5-cm-high) anorbital ripples and, on occasion, medium scale 10-20-cm-high, chaotic or hummocky bedforms. The boundaries between the zones appear to respond over periods of days to months to the predominant wave direction and energy. Smoothing and small shifts of the boundaries to the northeast take place during fair-weather wave conditions while erosion (scalloping of the boundary) and shifts to the north-northwest occur during storm conditions. The multibeam sonar was also able to resolve changes in the orientation and height of fields of ripples that were directly related to the differences in the prevailing wave direction and energy. The alignment of the small scale bedforms with the prevailing wave conditions appears to occur rapidly (on the order of hours or days) when the wave conditions exceed the threshold of sediment motion (most of the time for the fine sands) and particularly during moderate storm conditions. During storm events, erosional "windows" to the coarse layer below appear in the fine-grained sands. These Manuscript

Experiments were performed that test the kinematic breaking criterion, which states that the horizontal fluid particle velocity at the surface of a crest exceeds the local phase speed of the crest prior to breaking. Three different definitions of phase speed are used to calculate phase velocities of the wave crests from detailed surface elevation measurements. The first definition, based on the equivalent linear wave, is constant over the wavelength of the wave. The second, based on partial Hilbert transforms of the surface elevation data, is local in space and time giving instantaneous values at all space and time measurements. The third, based on the speed of the position of the crest maximum, is local in time but not in space. Particle image velocimetry is used to obtain horizontal components of fluid particle velocity at the surface of crests of breaking and nonbreaking waves produced in a wave flume using the chirp-pulse focusing technique. The ratios of these fluid particle speeds to crest phase speeds are calculated and are consistently less than unity. The speed ratio for the rounded crest of a plunging breaker is at most 0.81, implying that the kinematic breaking criterion is far from satisfied. The ratio for the more sharply pointed crest of a spilling breaker is at most 0.95, implying that the kinematic breaking criterion is closer to being satisfied. Thus, for the breaking waves in this study the kinematic breaking criterion is not satisfied for any of the three definitions of phase speed and so it cannot be regarded as a universal predictor of wave breaking.

Results on horizontal asymmetry and steepness distributions from analyses of ocean wave data collected during 10 severe storms in the northern North Sea are presented. The data have been collected at a sampling rate of 5 Hz using laser altimeters mounted on a fixed platform permitting the shapes of individual waves to be quite closely defined. This has allowed the steepness of the fronts and backs of wave crests and troughs to be examined. It is found that, on an average, as the non-dimensionalised wave height increases, the horizontal asymmetry becomes more pronounced. That is, the fronts of large wave crests tend to be steeper than their backs. Regression has been used to establish relationships between individual non-dimensionalised wave heights and steepness measures. The generalised Pareto distribution has then been used to establish a simple model for predicting the probability of extreme wave steepness conditional on the non-dimensionalised wave height.

In this study significant wave height (SWH) from EnviSAT radar altimeter data has been assimilated in the coastal ocean wave model SWAN (Simulating WAve Near-shore). Optimum interpolation (OI) technique has been used for this purpose. A detailed validation of the model and the EnviSAT observations has been carried out prior to the assimilation for the determination of the error covariance matrix of prediction and observation. Validation of the EnviSAT data and the model is done using the in-situ buoy observations and Jason-1 altimeter data. Validation exercise revels that at various ranges of SWH the error covariance changes significantly for both the model and the altimeter measurements. Result shows that the assimilation of EnviSAT data at various ranges of SWH, using optimum interpolation scheme in SWAN model improves the prediction by 15 -20%. Also there is reduction in the RMSE of SWH by 0.2 m. Multi-mission altimetric data assimilation using the same technique can improve the model prediction significantly.

Akurasi pengukuran gelombang di laboratorium merupakan faktor penting penentu kualitas hasil pengujian. Penelitian ini mengevaluasi akurasi pengukuran tinggi gelombang di depan model pemecah gelombang terapung menggunakan metode kombinasi dua dan tiga titik wave probe. Nilai akurasi ditentukan dengan membandingkan hasil tersebut terhadap pengukuran metode enam wave probe. Gelombang teratur dibangkitkan dari satu sisi tangki gelombang dengan panjang 25 m, lebar 1 m dan kedalaman 1,2 m yang dilengkapi dengan generator gelombang tipe flap. Peredaman gelombang di ujung lainnya dibangun dari tumpukan batu. Enam titik wave probe (HR Wallingford 8 saluran) ditempatkan di sepanjang gelombang di depan model berjarak 0,2L. Pembangkit gelombang membangkitkan fluktuasi muka air yang meningkat hingga mencapai ketinggian gelombang yang diinginkan. Setelah beberapa gelombang datang, gelombang pantul kemudian menurunkan fluktuasi muka air hingga mencapai kondisi gelombang stabil (yang bentuk dan tinggi puncaknya relative sama) yang menunjukkan bahwa gelombang yang dihasilkan adalah gelombang linear. Nilai R-square digunakan untuk mengevaluasi akurasi pengukuran gelombang. Metode tiga titik dengan jarak wave probe gelombang 0,2L adalah metode terbaik untuk mengukur tinggi gelombang.Kedua metode tersebut dibandingkan dengan metode umum untuk mendapatkan yang sesuai untuk setiap kasus. Kinerja pembangkit gelombang dapat ditingkatkan dengan mengurangi refleksi gelombang. Sementara pengaruh jarak wave probe juga memberikan pengaruh terhadap akurasi pengukuran tinggi gelombang.

Prozessbasierte morphodynamische Simulationsmodelle haben sich in den letzten Jahren zu wichtigen Ingenieurwerkzeugen für die Beurteilung von wasserbaulichen Maßnahmen entwickelt. Sie werden nicht nur zur Analyse zurückliegender Zeiträume eingesetzt, sie sollen auch die Analyse von zukünftigen Veränderungen ermöglichen. Prozessbasierte Simulationsmodelle erlauben insbesondere die systematische Untersuchung von Zusammenhängen, die sich in der Natur der Beobachtung entziehen oder nur mit großem Aufwand zu erfassen sind. In diesem Artikel werden Ergebnisse basierend auf großräumigen morphodynamischen Simulationen mit unterschiedlichen Modellsystemen präsentiert. Der Zeitraum umfasst die Jahre von 1996 bis 2008 und berücksichtigt die treibenden Kräfte von Gezeiten, von Fernwellen, von Oberwasserzuflüssen sowie von Windfeldern und dem daraus generierten Seegang. AufMod stellt jährliche konsistente Bathymetrien und initiale Sedimentdaten bereit, die von den morphodynamischen Modellen für ...

A coupled atmosphere–wave–sea spray model system is used to evaluate the impact of sea spray and wave drag on storm-generated waves, their height variations, and directional wave spectra in relation to the storm location and translation speed. Results suggest that the decrease or increase of significant wave height due to spray and wave drag is most significant in high-wind regions to the right of the storm track. These processes are modulations on the maximum-wave region and tend to occur several hours after the peak wind events, depending on the storm translation velocity. The translation speed of the storm is important. The directional variation between local winds and wind-generated waves within rapidly moving storms that outrun the waves is notably different from that of trapped waves, when the dominant waves’ group velocity approximates the storm translation speed. While wave drag and spray can increase or reduce the magnitudes of wind and significant wave height, their nondir...

The long-term goal of this effort is to develop an improved nearshore wave and current modeling system in order to achieve better and more detailed short-term predictive estimates of nearshore oceanographic conditions over spatial scales on the order of kilometers and time scales of the order hours to days.

We review several approaches that have been used to estimate ocean surface gravity wavenumbers from wave-resolving remotely sensed image sequences. Two fundamentally different approaches that utilize these data exist. A power spectral density approach identifies wavenumbers where image intensity variance is maximized. Alternatively, a cross-spectral correlation approach identifies wavenumbers where intensity coherence is maximized. We develop a solution to the latter approach based on a tomographic analysis that utilizes a nonlinear inverse method. The solution is tolerant to noise and other forms of sampling deficiency and can be applied to arbitrary sampling patterns, as well as to full-frame imagery. The solution includes error predictions that can be used for data retrieval quality control and for evaluating sample designs. A quantitative analysis of the intrinsic resolution of the method indicates that the cross-spectral correlation fitting improves resolution by a factor of about ten times as compared to the power spectral density fitting approach. The resolution analysis also provides a rule of thumb for nearshore bathymetry retrievals-short-scale cross-shore patterns may be resolved if they are about ten times longer than the average water depth over the pattern. This guidance can be applied to sample design to constrain both the sensor array (image resolution) and the analysis array (tomographic resolution).

Simultaneous microwave and video measurements of shallow water breaking waves are presented. A comparison of the data from the two sensors shows that short-duration spikes in the measured X-band radar cross section are highly correlated with the presence of breaking waves in the video imagery. In addition, the radar backscatter from shallow water breaking events is responsible for 40% to 50% of the total cross section, which is a much larger contribution than typically observed for deepwater breaking events. Based on estimates of the area of individual breaking regions determined from digitized video images, the radar cross section per unit area of the turbulent breaking region is shown to be well approximated by a value of 1.9 dB at 31 grazing. Finally, there are some differences between the radar and video signals that suggest that microwave radar may be less sensitive than video techniques to relict foam not associated with active wave breaking. In general, the results indicate that radar is a very good detector of shallow water breaking waves and suggest that radar can be used for the measurement of the spatial and temporal variations of wave breaking.

This project would not have been possible without the unflagging help of my major professor, Dr. John Brubaker. John remained enthusiastic about this project from my first suggestion to its completion. He also always listened patiently to all my ideas (not necessarily an easy thing) and was primarily responsible for arranging the field deployment described herein. In this latter regard, I would also like to thank the personnel of the US Army Corps of Engineers Waterways Experiment Station Coastal Engineering Research Center Field Research Facility (FRF) at Duck, NC, particularly William Birkmeier, who allowed us to deploy the VIMS ADCP within the FRF pressure gage linear array and facilitated this deployment by letting us use the amphibious "LARC" at no cost. Tim Shannon, Danny Gouge, and Bob Gammisch at VIMS deserve thanks for participating in the deployment and retrieval of the instrument. Tim deserves an extra thanks for his design and

We investigate the distribution of various fractions phosphorus (P) in sediments at the coastal area of Semarang City. Samples were collected from thirteen locations at the Banjir Kanal Barat, port and Banjir Kanal Timur. Sedimentary parameters such as sand, silt, clay, and organic carbon were analysed in order to find out their relation with various P fractions. The sediment types are predominantly sandy and silty with low clay content. Among all fractions (loosely bound/Ads-P), bound calcium/Ca-P), iron bound/Fe-P), and organic fraction/OP), CaP fractions constitute the largest portion (71.2 %) followed by iron-bound (17.0 %), organic fraction (10.4 %) and loosely bound (1.4 %). The bioavailable P fractions range from 20.2 % to 42.0 % of the total P (TP) content with average 28.8 %. Relatively high Ads-P content is observed in offshore locations with comparatively high mud percentage as compared with the near-shore locations. The order of abundance of the main forms of P in the Semarang coastal surface sediments is as follows: CaP > Fe-P > OP > Ads-P. The concentration of this fraction causes the abundance of chlorophyll-a from 9.09 to 21.09 mg/m 3 .

At plunging breakers, air bubbles are entrained at the impingement of the water jet, formed at the top of the wave, with the water free surface in front. During the present study, air bubble entrainment at a pseudo-plunging breaker was investigated at near full-scale and further experimental work studied the bubble detrainment process. Experimental observations included the generation and propagation of waves downstream of the plunge point. Experimental results highlighted a number of unsteady air-water flow patterns and emphasise high levels of aeration: i.e., depth-averaged void fraction of more than 10% next to jet impact in shallow waters. Unsteady bubble injection experiments showed a strong vortical motion induced by the rising bubbles. Altogether, the results suggest that a dominant time scale is the bubble rise time d 1 /u r , which cannot be scaled properly with an undistorted Froude model. The study contributes to a better understanding of unsteady bubble entrainment at a pseudoplunging breaker and the associated vortical circulation.

Recently long waves with periods of several minutes have been recognised as an important exciting component to beach erosion, sedimentation in harbours, and oscillations of water and moored ships in harbours. Although long waves are usually involved in a wave train with wave groups as nonlinear bound wave components, the energy of free long waves increases drastically near the surf zone, which implies some energy transfer mechanisms from short to long waves near the shoreline. The present study regards the air bubble entrainment due to plunging breakers as another energy transfer mechanism. Air bubble entrainment by breaking waves is a significant factor in the surf zone under high wave conditions. However the air bubble entrainment process is improperly scaled by a Froude similitude (WOOD 1991, CHANSON 1997),and most laboratory experiments tend to underestimate its effects. During the present study, air bubble entrainment at plunging breakers was investigated in a large-size facility. The breaker plunging jet was modelled by an unsteady vertical jet discharging into a 20-m long wave 0.8-m wide flume. The falling nappe was 0. 75-m wide and 0.07-m thick at the orifice and the free-fall height ranged from 0.82 up to 1.32 m. The wave field downstream of the nappe impact was recorded for a range of initial flow conditions : initial water depths, initial water volumes of the pseudo plunging breaker, initial wave field. For some experiments, air entrainment was suppressed by a factor of 2 to 3 by inserting 18-μm thin plastic sheets inhibiting bubble entrainment at the plunging jet impingement. Air entrainment at the plunging jet is associated with a rise in water level caused by the liquid displacement. FUHRBOTER ( 1970) suggested that the entrained air causes a transfer of energy into potential energy. The subsequent release of that energy may contribute to the generation of 'free' long waves with periods corresponding to the duration of the water level rise. The spatial variation of the water level rise in the wave group might also generate 'free' waves of period equal to the wave group period. In laboratory. the suppression of air entrainment is associated with a reduction of wave energy flux corresponding to about the rise bubble time. Altogether the study demonstrates the generation of 'free' long waves by air entrained at wave breaking.

As waves travel and shoal towards a beach, their surface elevation becomes peaky (sharp crests) and asymmetric relative to the vertical. Within a wave period, the corresponding orbital velocity near the bottom shows a similar (time) variation, presenting both velocity and acceleration skewnesses. These local nonlinearities are inextricably linked to sediment transport, but the processes involved are not well understood. This research intends to increase the understanding of cross-shore sediment transport processes under combined nonlinear waves plus currents, focusing on the importance of the velocity and acceleration skewnesses in sheet flow layer dynamics. For that purpose, new experimental and modelling work are presented in this thesis. Firstly, new experiments under sheet flow conditions conducted in an oscillating water tunnel (OWT) are reported, enabling to study the effects of flow acceleration on instantaneous velocities and sediment concentrations and fluxes. The measured net transport rates show that (i) the acceleration skewness in an oscillatory flow is responsible for a net sediment transport in the direction of the highest (onshore) acceleration; (ii) the net transport in the presence of an opposing current is negative, against the direction of the highest acceleration, and reduces with an increase in flow acceleration; and (iii) the velocity skewness increases the values of the net onshore transport rates. This trend is also confirmed through detailed velocity and concentration measurements in the sheet-flow layer. Two mechanisms play a key role in the sediment transport of acceleration skewness flows, namely, skewed bed shear stresses and unsteady phase-lag effects between the velocity and sediment concentration: they both drive a positive net transport in the direction of the largest acceleration. Afterwards, a new simple analytical formulation that reproduces a skewed, nonlinear, near-bed wave orbital velocity is presented. Two input parameters are related to the velocity and acceleration skewnesses. The equation is compared with other models and validated against field and laboratory experiments. The results reveal that it can simulate accurately a wide range of nonlinear wave shapes. The new expression is used to derive a new bed shear stress estimator accounting for these nonlinear effects. When tested against bed shear stress measurements of the OWT experiment, a good agreement with the momentum-integral method estimate is obtained. The parameterisation is incorporated in a quasi-steady bed load formula and is tested against the measured net transport rates in several OWT experiments. When compared with other sediment transport formulations the new model accurately reproduces transport rates under nonlinear, nonbreaking waves with and without an opposing current. Finally, the same bedload shear stress predictor is applied to predict the bed changes in the surf region in front of a collapsing coastal dune, in a laboratory experiment. v RESUMO À medida que uma onda se propaga para a costa e a profundidade diminui, a superfície livre evolui, tornando-se pontiaguda sobre a crista da onda, mais achatada na cava e relativamente íngreme na face frontal da crista, previamente à rebentação. No período da onda, a velocidade orbital junto ao fundo exibe variações temporais semelhantes, apresentando assimetrias na velocidade e na aceleração. Estas não linearidades estão inextrincavelmente ligadas ao transporte sedimentar, mas subsiste um desconhecimento dos processos envolvidos. Este trabalho de investigação pretende contribuir para um melhor entendimento dos processos de transporte sedimentar na direcção transversal à costa, sob a acção combinada de ondas assimétricas e correntes, evidenciando a importância das assimetrias da velocidade e da aceleração na dinâmica da camada de sedimentos em regime de leito plano superior ("sheet flow"). Com esse propósito, esta tese apresenta novos trabalhos experimentais e de modelação. Inicialmente, apresentam-se novas experiências realizadas em túnel de ondas em condições (configuração de fundo) de leito plano superior, que permitem avaliar o efeito da aceleração em escoamentos oscilatórios, no campo de velocidade orbital e na concentração e fluxos de sedimentos. As taxas de transporte sedimentar calculadas experimentalmente revelam que (i) a assimetria da aceleração de um escoamento oscilatório é responsável por um transporte efectivo no sentido da maior aceleração (para sotamar); (ii) o transporte é negativo na presença de uma corrente colinear oposta ao do sentido da maior aceleração, mas é minorado com um aumento da aceleração; (iii) a assimetria da velocidade aumenta os valores da taxa de transporte sedimentar em direcção à linha de costa. Esta tendência é igualmente confirmada através de medições detalhadas de velocidades e concentrações dentro da camada de "sheet flow". Os resultados evidenciam dois mecanismos que desempenham um papel primordial no transporte sedimentar de escoamentos oscilatórios na presença de acelerações assimétricas, nomeadamente, a assimetria das tensões de atrito junto ao fundo e efeitos associados ao desfasamento entre velocidades e concentrações de sedimentos: ambos conduzem a um transporte positivo na direcção da maior aceleração. Posteriormente, apresenta-se uma expressão analítica eficaz na reprodução de velocidades orbitais junto ao fundo sob a acção de ondas não lineares. Dois parâmetros intervenientes nesta expressão estão relacionados com as assimetrias da velocidade e aceleração do escoamento. A equação é comparada com outros modelos e validada com resultados experimentais de trabalhos de campo e laboratoriais. Mostra-se que a expressão simula adequadamente um vasto número de formas de ondas assimétricas. A nova expressão é utilizada na obtenção de um estimador de tensões de atrito que entra com essas formas não lineares. Quando comparada com estimativas de tensões de atrito obtidas através do método "momentum-integral", em experiências em túnel de onda, obtémse uma boa concordância. A parametrização é incorporada num modelo de transporte por arrastamento quase-estacionário e o seu desempenho é avaliado para medições de transporte obtidos em diversos túneis de vi ondas. Confrontada com outras formulações, o novo modelo revela-se promissor na estimativa do transporte sedimentar sob ondas não rebentadas assimétricas e que possam coexistir com correntes opostas. Finalmente, o mesmo modelo de transporte é aplicado para prever mudanças morfológicas, medidas em laboratório, na região de espalho ("surf") em frente a uma duna colapsante. To all who have accompanied me during my PhD journey, family, friends and colleagues that, through their friendship, understanding and presence, contributed to the achievement of this work, here I express my sincere gratitude. Nonetheless, I have to present special thanks: -to my supervisors Professors Francisco Sancho and Paulo Silva for providing all the necessary resources for the development of the experimental work, for encouraging me to participate in important international conferences, for challenging me with interesting and rewarding projects, for sharing their experience and knowledge, for their important contributions on some of the experimental work, for their example of commitment to achieve the best results, for their patience and friendship, for the final review of the text and, most important, for the total willingness to support, motivate and guide me throughout my academic career. It has been a great privilege to work with both of you; -to the Portuguese Science Foundation (FCT) that supported me through a PhD grant (SFRH/BD/41827/2007). Furthermore, both TRANSKEW and BOB experimental works were supported by the European Community's Sixth Framework Programme through the grant to the budget of the Integrated Infrastructure Initiative HYDRALAB III within the Transnational Access Activities, Contract no. 022441. This financial support is greatly acknowledged; -to the leaders of the projects TRANSKEW and BOB, namely, Professors Paulo Silva and Roberto Tomasicchio, and to the rest of the participants involved in the experiments. It was a pleasure and a privilege to work with you; -to Doctor Hervé Michallet and Professor André Temperville, from Laboratoire des Ecoulements Géophysiques et Industriels (France), for receiving me at their group in Grenoble during several times, for their hospitality, for the generous insights they gave me in the processing of the data collected at Delft, for several comments, discussions and suggestions contributing to improvements of this thesis; -to Professor Tom O'Donoghue and Doctor Dominic van der A, from the University of Aberdeen (UK), for their hospitality during my short stay in Aberdeen, for sharing with me several interesting ideas and publications, and for their helpful comments and stimulating discussions; -to Professor Gerben Ruessink, from Utrecht University (The Netherlands), for the fruitful opinions, constructive suggestions and research contributions; -to Professor Peter Nielsen, from The University of Queensland (Australia), for giving me suggestions to improve my work and for his invaluable teachings, particularly, on the velocity defect function; viii -to Professor Mário Franca for introducing me into the wavelet world, sharing with me several

Steady scale-invariant solutions of a kinetic equation describing the statistics of oceanic internal gravity waves based on wave turbulence theory are investigated. It is shown in the non-rotating scale-invariant limit that the collision integral in the kinetic equation diverges for almost all spectral power-law exponents. These divergences come from resonant interactions with the smallest horizontal wavenumbers and/or the largest horizontal wavenumbers with extreme scale-separations. We identify a small domain in which the scale-invariant collision integral converges and numerically find a convergent power-law solution. This numerical solution is close to the Garrett-Munk spectrum. Power-law exponents which potentially permit a balance between the infra-red and ultra-violet divergences are investigated. The balanced exponents are generalizations of an exact solution of the scale-invariant kinetic equation, the Pelinovsky-Raevsky spectrum. A balance between oppositely signed divergences states that infinity minus infinity may be approximately equal to zero. A small but finite Coriolis parameter representing the effects of rotation is introduced into the kinetic equation to determine solutions over the divergent part of the domain using rigorous asymptotic arguments. This gives rise to the induced diffusion regime. The derivation of the kinetic equation is based on an assumption of weak nonlinearity. Dominance of the nonlocal interactions puts the self-consistency of the kinetic equation at risk. Yet these weakly nonlinear stationary states are consistent with much of the observational evidence.

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This paper obtains the solitary wave, shock wave as well as singular soliton solutions to the generalized Ostrovsky-Benjamin-Bona-Mahoney (gO-BBM) equation. The ansatz method is applied to obtain the solutions. Several constraint conditions for the parameters are derived that establish the existence of the soliton solutions.

Current real-time applications feature rivers that are pre-calculated off-line and present static animations and behaviours. These pre-calculated approaches have several limitations when used in real-time applications such as video games as they usually do not react to changes performed by the user. Due to the continuous pursue for better realism, the techniques used to simulate rivers have not only to improve the appearance of rivers but also allow them to adapt to dynamic changes performed in real-time. The approach presented in this work allows the dynamic generation of the river given any riverbed. The algorithm is also flexible enough to adapt the river flow in real-time. This approach not only accelerates the creation of realistic rivers but also increases the realism as the river is able to react to dynamic objects that come in contact with the flow, by properly adjusting its course.

The public reporting burden for this collection of information is estimated to average 1 hour per response, including the time for reviewing instructions, searching existing data sources, gathering and maintaining the data needed, and completing and reviewing the collection of information. Send comments regarding this burden estimate or any other aspect of this collection of information, including suggestions for reducing the burden, to Department of Defense, Washington Headquarters Services, Directorate for Information Operations and Reports (0704-01881, 1215 Jefferson Davis Highway, Suite 1204, Arlington, VA 22202-4302. Respondents should be aware that notwithstanding any other provision of law, no person shall be subject to any penalty for failing to comply with a collection of information if it does not display a currently valid OMB control number.

Revision der Roten Listen: in Arbeit Erarbeitung einer aktualisierten nordseeweiten Übersicht der benthischen Lebensgemeinschaften: in der North Sea Study Group des ICES noch in Arbeit 8 2.2 Datenerhebung 2.2.1 Recherchen nach vorhandenem und neuem externen Datenmaterial Die Recherchen nach älteren vorhandenen, vor allem biologischen Daten wurden abgeschlossen. Das bewertete Datenmaterial über das Zoobenthos wird in Zusammenhang mit den eigenen Erfassungen (in den Jahren 1999 bis 2002) in Kapitel 4 und 5 diskutiert. Allerdings sind v.a. durch Aufträge des BfN neue Ergebnisse vorhanden oder noch in der Bearbeitung, so dass der Auftragnehmer bis Projektende hierzu keine abschließende Gesamtbewertung durchzuführen in der Lage war. Darüber hinaus werden für eine umfassende Gesamtbewertung in Zukunft auch eine ganze Reihe Untersuchungsergebnisse aus Genehmigungsverfahren für Windenergieanlagen und Kiesund Sandabbau zu berücksichtigen sein. Über die Verteilung der Fischfauna werden dem BfN in einem eigenständigen Teilprogramm Daten von der Bundesforschungsanstalt für Fischerei zur Verfügung gestellt. Wir beschränken uns deshalb bei unseren Aussagen im wesentlichen auf die von der Arbeitsgruppe von Dr. R. Knust nach der "Heincke"-Ausfahrt von 2000 zusammengestellten Ergebnisse (u.a. im Kapitel 4.2, Epifauna). Erste Vogelverbreitungsdaten im Gebiet der AWZ wurden durch das Institut für Vogelforschung aufbereitet und dargestellt (bis 2001 über den Auftragnehmer). Inzwischen werden auch hierzu unabhängige, weiterreichende Forschungsarbeiten gesondert durchgeführt (s. www.HabitatMareNatura2000.de). 2.2.2 Erhebung eigener Daten "Heincke"-Ausfahrt 2000 Wie geplant wurde vom 30.5. bis zum 24.6.2000 mit dem Forschungsschiff "Heincke" (Fahrt HE 133) eine großflächige Probennahme vor allem zur Beschreibung des Makrozoobenthos in der AWZ und in angrenzenden Gebieten durchgeführt. Es wurden insgesamt 226 Stationen beprobt, davon 190 mit einem Bodengreifer (van Veen mit 0,1 m 2 Fläche, für Fauna und Sedimente), 67 zusätzlich mit einem Kastengreifer, und an 2 Stationen kam der Großkastengreifer zum Einsatz. Es wurden zudem 78 Baumkurrenhols und 27 Grundschleppnetzfänge durchgeführt (Details s. Fahrtbericht, ANLAGEN 5 und 6). An 164 Stationen wurde routinemäßig eine CTD-Sonde eingesetzt, in ausgewählten Gebieten zusätzlich eine Sauerstoffsonde. Auffällige Schichtungen und Sauerstoffdefizite wurden nicht gefunden. 9 Während der Fahrt konnten bereits auch einige potenzielle Schwerpunktflächen in der östlichen Deutschen Bucht mit einem dichteren Stationsnetz beprobt werden.

Revision der Roten Listen: in Arbeit Erarbeitung einer aktualisierten nordseeweiten Übersicht der benthischen Lebensgemeinschaften: in der North Sea Study Group des ICES noch in Arbeit 8 2.2 Datenerhebung 2.2.1 Recherchen nach vorhandenem und neuem externen Datenmaterial Die Recherchen nach älteren vorhandenen, vor allem biologischen Daten wurden abgeschlossen. Das bewertete Datenmaterial über das Zoobenthos wird in Zusammenhang mit den eigenen Erfassungen (in den Jahren 1999 bis 2002) in Kapitel 4 und 5 diskutiert. Allerdings sind v.a. durch Aufträge des BfN neue Ergebnisse vorhanden oder noch in der Bearbeitung, so dass der Auftragnehmer bis Projektende hierzu keine abschließende Gesamtbewertung durchzuführen in der Lage war. Darüber hinaus werden für eine umfassende Gesamtbewertung in Zukunft auch eine ganze Reihe Untersuchungsergebnisse aus Genehmigungsverfahren für Windenergieanlagen und Kiesund Sandabbau zu berücksichtigen sein. Über die Verteilung der Fischfauna werden dem BfN in einem eigenständigen Teilprogramm Daten von der Bundesforschungsanstalt für Fischerei zur Verfügung gestellt. Wir beschränken uns deshalb bei unseren Aussagen im wesentlichen auf die von der Arbeitsgruppe von Dr. R. Knust nach der "Heincke"-Ausfahrt von 2000 zusammengestellten Ergebnisse (u.a. im Kapitel 4.2, Epifauna). Erste Vogelverbreitungsdaten im Gebiet der AWZ wurden durch das Institut für Vogelforschung aufbereitet und dargestellt (bis 2001 über den Auftragnehmer). Inzwischen werden auch hierzu unabhängige, weiterreichende Forschungsarbeiten gesondert durchgeführt (s. www.HabitatMareNatura2000.de). 2.2.2 Erhebung eigener Daten "Heincke"-Ausfahrt 2000 Wie geplant wurde vom 30.5. bis zum 24.6.2000 mit dem Forschungsschiff "Heincke" (Fahrt HE 133) eine großflächige Probennahme vor allem zur Beschreibung des Makrozoobenthos in der AWZ und in angrenzenden Gebieten durchgeführt. Es wurden insgesamt 226 Stationen beprobt, davon 190 mit einem Bodengreifer (van Veen mit 0,1 m 2 Fläche, für Fauna und Sedimente), 67 zusätzlich mit einem Kastengreifer, und an 2 Stationen kam der Großkastengreifer zum Einsatz. Es wurden zudem 78 Baumkurrenhols und 27 Grundschleppnetzfänge durchgeführt (Details s. Fahrtbericht, ANLAGEN 5 und 6). An 164 Stationen wurde routinemäßig eine CTD-Sonde eingesetzt, in ausgewählten Gebieten zusätzlich eine Sauerstoffsonde. Auffällige Schichtungen und Sauerstoffdefizite wurden nicht gefunden. 9 Während der Fahrt konnten bereits auch einige potenzielle Schwerpunktflächen in der östlichen Deutschen Bucht mit einem dichteren Stationsnetz beprobt werden.

Waves are the dominant forcing of the nearshore system and, in order to understand and predict beach morphological evolution, it is crucial to have a reliable source for wave characteristics at shallow water (about 20 m depth). The best sources of wave conditions are measurements devices (e.g., a wave buoy or AWAC) located directly in front of the study site. However, wave buoys are scarce and deploying and maintaining an AWAC is expensive. This means that wave conditions often have to be taken from a buoy located far from the study site or from a large-scale global hindcast model and wave propagation is necessary. Mostly, propagation is done either by using linear wave theory and ray approximation or by using more advanced models such as SWAN. Such methods often lead to errors in quantifying wave conditions, especially in small fetch, complex geometry coasts such as the Catalan coast (Pallares et al., 2014). In particular, the reliability of the obtained wave angles is often questi...

Accurate estimates of Stokes drift are necessary to quantify Lagrangian transport and upper-ocean mixing. These can be estimated from directional wave spectra. Here, a methodology for the reconstruction of such spectra is developed using partitioned bulk wave parameters provided by global wave models. These reconstructed spectra agree well with global wave model–simulated full spectra. Regional wave model simulations with reconstructed spectra as open boundary conditions lead to more accurate estimates of bulk wave parameters in the coastal ocean. Furthermore, the reconstructed directional spectra can be used to improve high-frequency (HF) radar–derived surface Lagrangian current estimates. Stokes drift vertical profiles from complete directional spectra are more accurate, and therefore coupled ocean circulation and wave models should incorporate spectral estimates for wave–current interaction studies. Based on model simulations conducted here, it is recommended that regional wave m...

ENVISAT fast delivery RA-2 and ASAR wind and wave products are routinely received, monitored and validated at ECMWF. RA-2 wind speed product is of good quality. Although Ku-band significant wave height (SWH) product is slightly high, it is of high quality. The redundant side B of RA-2 produced SWH product of even better quality. The S-band wave height product is generally of good quality. The inverted ASAR Wave Mode Level 1b product agrees well with the wave model counterpart while Level 2 product agrees well with the wave model in terms of swell wave height and mean period only. RA-2 Ku-band SWH and ASAR Wave Mode Level 1b products are assimilated in the ECMWF operational wave model. The assimilation has positive impact on model analysis and forecast. Recently there were several events which had some impact on the quality of the RA-2 wind and wave products. Two events are considered here. The first is the implementation of the NRT RA2/MWR Level 1b and Level 2 IPF Version 5.02 processing chain on 24 October 2005. The second is the anomalous behaviour of the RA-2 Ultra Stable Oscillator (USO) on

HAL is a multidisciplinary open access archive for the deposit and dissemination of scientific research documents, whether they are published or not. The documents may come from teaching and research institutions in France or abroad, or from public or private research centers. L'archive ouverte pluridisciplinaire HAL, est destinée au dépôt et à la diffusion de documents scientifiques de niveau recherche, publiés ou non, émanant des établissements d'enseignement et de recherche français ou étrangers, des laboratoires publics ou privés.

Panjang Island waters located in Jepara Regency and it is one of the areas in the waters of Jepara Regency which has a diversity of aquatic ecosystems. As a tourist destination, Panjang Island has an important role for the community. However, Panjang Island will face problems such as shoreline changes and abrasions such as those experienced by small islands in Indonesia. One effort to overcome problems that might arise in the future by collecting information about conditions in this area such as surface sediments and hydrodynamic conditions. This study aims to determine the hydrodynamic conditions and geological conditions in this region. The data used in this study are bathymetry, sediment, and ocean current. This study using the quantitive method, including field surveys and mathematical modeling methods. The result show the size of the sediment grains in Panjang Island dominant in silt and sand. The results of tidal data processing showed the value of Formzhal 1.32 with the mixed tide prevailing semidiurnal type. The maximum recorded current speed is 0.53 m/s, and the lowest recorded current speed is 0.1 cm / s. The speed of ocean currents is getting smaller with increasing depth of water. The pattern ocean current direction leading toward north during flood towards ebb and lowest ebb while during highest flood and ebb towards flood leading towards the south.

Our global long-term goal is making further progress in understanding of the mixing processes in the ocean on large and small scales. To achieve this goal, we develop theories of anisotropic turbulence and dispersive waves in different environments, test them, compare them with data and implement them in ocean models. In this project, the goals were to extend the QNSE theory of turbulence to flows with solid body rotation, conduct a comprehensive study of the spectral characteristics of such flows, to develop a theory of the combined effect of rotation and stable stratification which may shed new light upon the Garrett-Munk spectrum, and to test these theories in oceanic models.

Scientists and engineers have observed for some time that tidal amplitudes at many locations are shifting considerably due to nonastronomical factors. Here we review comprehensively these important changes in tidal properties, many of which remain poorly understood. Over long geological time scales, tectonic processes drive variations in basin size, depth, and shape and hence the resonant properties of ocean basins. On shorter geological time scales, changes in oceanic tidal properties are dominated by variations in water depth. A growing number of studies have identified widespread, sometimes regionally coherent, positive, and negative trends in tidal constituents and levels during the 19th, 20th, and early 21st centuries. Determining the causes is challenging because a tide measured at a coastal gauge integrates the effects of local, regional, and oceanic changes. Here, we highlight six main factors that can cause changes in measured tidal statistics on local scales and a further ...

The main objective of this work is to investigate intra-tidal morphology changes during a tidal cycle and understand their relationship with the geometry of the sand mixing depth layer. To accomplish this objective high resolution elevation changes and mixing depth levels were monitored in a cross-shore profile. From analysis of the detailed beach profile changes, it was found that intra-tidal variations clear dominated the net (over a tidal cycle) profile modification. The observed changes were essentially related with the development and migration of a beach step at the base of the beach face, which developed at rising tide and was washed out at ebbing tide. Results also showed that mixing depth signal is closed related to intra-tidal morphological variations. The observations demonstrate mixing depth and break step computations should be based on a single predictor and that sand mixing depth data obtained over a tidal cycle cannot be directly compared to the one acquired using a short sampling interval, even if the net change beach elevations are negligible.

In May 1999, the European Space Agency (ESA) selected the Earth Explorer Opportunity Soil Moisture and Ocean Salinity (SMOS) mission to obtain global and frequent soil moisture and ocean salinity maps. SMOS single payload is the Microwave Imaging Radiometer by Aperture Synthesis (MIRAS), an L-band two-dimensional aperture synthesis radiometer with multiangular observation capabilities. At L-band, the brightness temperature sensitivity to the sea surface salinity (SSS) is low, approximately 0.5 K/psu at 20 C, decreasing to 0.25 K/psu at 0 C, comparable to that to the wind speed 0.2 K/(m/s) at nadir. However, at a given time, the sea state does not depend only on local winds, but on the local wind history and the presence of waves traveling from far distances. The Wnd and Salinity Experiment (WISE) 2000 and 2001 campaigns were sponsored by ESA to determine the impact of oceanographic and atmospheric variables on the L-band brightness temperature at vertical and horizontal polarizations. This paper presents the results of the analysis of three nonstationary sea state conditions: growing and decreasing sea, and the presence of swell. Measured sea surface spectra are compared with the theoretical ones, computed using the instantaneous wind speed. Differences can be minimized using an "effective wind speed" that makes the theoretical spectrum best match the measured one. The impact on the predicted brightness temperatures is then assessed using the small slope approximation/small perturbation method (SSA/SPM).

This paper describes a numerical model to simulate the behavior of a mussel longline system, subjected to environmental loads such as waves and current. The mussel line system consists of an anchor, a mooring chain, a long backbone line, mussel collector lines and buoys. The lumped-mass open-source code MoorDyn is modified for the current application. Waves are modelled as a directional spectrum, and the current as a homogeneous velocity field with an exponential vertical distribution. A Coulomb model is implemented to model the horizontal friction between nodes and the seabed. Cylindrical buoys with three translational degrees-of-freedom are modelled by extending the simplified hydrodynamic model in use for line’s internal nodes with additional properties like cylinder height, diameter and mass. Clump weights are modelled in a similar way. For validation purposes, the results of the present software are compared with the commercially available lumped-mass based mooring dynamic soft...

Smith, Coastal Engineering Research Center ; prepared for U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. 274 p. : ill. ; 28 cm.-(Technical report ; CERC-94-3 v. 1) 6 m long and 4 m wide. (The terminology "basin" implies that both longshore and cross-shore processes can be modeled.) In the experiments, water elevation, waves, surface and bottom currents, and beach profile change were recorded. The evolution of numerous three-dimensional morphologic beach features found in the field were qualitatively reproduced and discussed, including berms, scarps, break-point bars and troughs, and channels that would now be termed rip-current channels. A summary of one aspect of the first four experiments in the series states "The results indicated that normal weather conditions tend to move the offshore sand toward the beach while storm conditions caused erosion of the beach and the formation of an offshore bar" (BEB 1936). The USACE thereafter conducted numerous small-scale laboratory experiments on beach profile change produced by wave action, and a review of these and other laboratory and field studies performed worldwide may be found in Larson and Kraus (1989).

The coastal processes study reported herein was requested by US Army Engineer District, New York (NAN) as part of a comprehensive plan of shore protection for Sea Bright to Ocean Township, New Jersey. This investigation was conducted by personnel of the US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Sta- tion (WES) Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC) during the period January 1985 to August 1986. Messrs. Silvio Calisi and James C. Urbelis were NAN Technical Monitors during the study, and Mr. Joseph Vietri and Ms. Lynn M. Koeth were Technical Monitors during the final review and publication phase of the report. Results are contained in two volumes. Volume I presents the main narra- tive, including problem statement, background information, procedures, and principal results. Volume II contains data sets that were processed and/or generated in the course of the study, including offshore and nearshore wave information, shoreline change statistics, and plots of beach profiles. Volume I was written by Dr.

Environmental monitoring of marine renewable energy projects is needed to reduce environmental uncertainties and enable sustainable commercial implementations. An Adaptable Monitoring Package (AMP), along with the support infrastructure required to perform maintenance of the AMP, is being developed to enable real-time environmental monitoring of marine renewable energy converters. The monitoring capabilities supported by the AMP include marine animal interactions with converters, noise levels, current and wave fields, and water quality. The core instrumentation on the AMP is comprised of a hybrid stereo-optical and acoustical camera system, a localizing hydrophone array, acoustic Doppler current profilers and velocimeters, a water quality sensor, cetacean click detector, and fish tag receiver. For an initial deployment to monitor a tidal turbine in deep water, the AMP is integrated into the converter structure and connected to shore via the turbine export cable, but can be disconnected and recovered for maintenance independently of the turbine. The AMP is deployed by a SeaEye Falcon inspectionclass ROV and a custom tool skid. This paper describes the function, design, and dynamic stability of the AMP and deployment ROV. The conceptual design and approach to operations, to be confirmed through field testing, suggests that the AMP is likely

Public reporting burden for this collection of information is estimated to average 1 hour per response, including the time for reviewing instruction, searching existing data sources, gathering and maintaining the data needed, and completing and reviewing the collection of information. Send comments regarding this burden estimate or any other aspect of this collection of information, including suggestions for reducing this burden, to