Boots, material culture and Georgian masculinities

Archaeologia BALTICA, 2013

Research into individual archaeological shoe finds allows us to make assumptions concerning the differentiation of shoes according to social strata during the Renaissance period. A more complex and higher-quality shoe construction is a characteristic feature of shoes worn by people of a higher social standing.

Work (Reading, Mass.), 2012

This article addresses the love for shoes by the perspective of design and emotion. Reviewing the footwear history, we realize that it did not take too long for the shoes start to have new functions, aesthetic and symbolic, which eventually came to have greater relevance in the acquisition of women's shoes. Today, these outweigh the importance of physical comfort for many women, that once feeling pretty, do not realize the discomfort of the shoe. Studies indicate that the objects we love have a strong influence on our sense of identity, especially when dealing with clothing articles that have the power to show on our appearance our identity, tastes and preferences. Crossing the semiotics field, the footwear is analyzed as an object of feminine desire, imbued with symbolic relations. As a result, we propose a framework to describe the emotional relationship between women and shoes.

2021

2016

Journal of British Studies, 2016

The lawn-tennis shoe was a popular, widely available commodity in late- Victorian Britain. Associated with new forms of sporting practice and consumption, this type of footwear was mass-produced in modern factories, promoted in the popular leisure press, and sold to both men and women in a variety of retail environ- ments. This article analyzes processes of product innovation, production, and sale, and it situates the shoes within a wider context of sport, commerce, fashion, and class and gender relations. Like other late-Victorian sporting and recreational practices, lawn tennis combined material objects, physical activity, and the stylized display of gender and class ideals. Footwear was valued for symbolic and physically practical reasons. Ideas of intended use determined its design and material form. Sportswear created and communicated new masculine ideals. As lawn-tennis shoes moved from the court into everyday usage, the meanings attached to them accommodated a broader range of practices and contexts.

Costume, 2016

BYU Studies Quarterly, 1996

Acta Periodica Duellatorum, 2017

Military footwear for the fifteenth century includes arming shoes worn under sabatons. Written sources suggest arming shoes and footwear used for fighting were ordinary shoes adapted for the purpose. Archaeological footwear was examined for signs of such modifications. Medieval shoe technology is presented, showing the range of footwear and its uses and gait biomechanics. Based on experiences from re-enactors wearing armours, medieval shoe styles are discussed for appropriateness as arming shoes. The question of why medieval military footwear shows no purposed development is addressed.

2015

Table of contents List of figures List of abbreviations and notes 43 Upper fabrics 44 Upper materials 45 Silk weaves 46 Brocade [28] 47 Figured silk [56] 48 Velvet [59] Callimanco [83] 50 Wool [23] 51 Red leather shoes [60] 52 Red leather shoes [61] 53 Damask lining [50] 54 Ticking lining [46] 55 Colours Decoration-pie charts 57 Decoration-tables 58 Braided shoe [25] 59 Braided shoe [9] 60 Braided shoe [10] 61 Braided shoe [8] 62 Details from Four times of the day: evening (1738) 63 Details from A rakes progress, plate 7 (1735) 64 Details from a portrait of Henrietta Hobart (1720) 65 The stealing of a kiss (1743) 66 Narrow braided shoe [3] 67 Narrow braided and spangled shoe [29] 68 Spangles and metal thread [51] 69 Embroidered quarters 70 Beaded vamp 71 Uncut embroidered uppers 72 Padded bows and fringing [49] 73 Ribbon decoration [84] 74 Cut out vamps [95, 99, 100, 101] 75 Sole length 76 Sole width 77 The duchess blush or York flame (1791) 78 Fashionable contrasts (1792) 79 Camper's diagram of the foot (1781) 80 Wear on soles [62] 81 Wear on soles [57] 82 Wear on soles [77] 83 Wear on soles [101] 84 Wear on sock [75] 85 Cut in vamp [75] 7 Cut in vamp [39] 87 Cut in vamp [93] 88 a&b Inserts in vamp [2] 89 a&b Inserts in vamp [31] 90 Wear on back strap[42] 91 Repair [42] Repair [42] 93 Repair [52] 94 Painted heel [53] 95 Recovered shoes [44] 96 Mule [4] 97 Pug dog with mule (1730) 98 Mules [57] 99 La toilette (1742) 100 A maid taking soup from a caldron (1780) 101 Pattens 102 Detail from A scene from description of a city shower (1704) 103 You are clean fair lady (1791) 104 Clog [105] 105 Shoe and clog [104, 13] 106 a&b Shoe and overshoe [76] 107 Slapsole 108 Yellow shoes [6, 36, 39, 41] 109 Similar plain shoes [66, 73, 90] 110 Similarly decorated shoes [27, 28, 29, 46, 56] 111 Fashion plate 1790 112 Sack back gown (1740-45) 113 Mantua with wide paniers (1740-45) 114 Fashion plate 1765 115 Fashion plate 116 Fashion plate 1779 117 Fashion plate 1783 118 Fashion plate 1794 119 Fashion plate 1794 120 Shoe in poor repair [16] 121 Concealed shoe [19] 122 Size stick 123 Processes of shoe construction 124 Heels, upper and finished shoes 125 Round knife 126 Lasting pincers 127 Shoemaker cutting uppers from leather 128 Upper pieces [44] Shelved espadrilles 173 York Shoe Warehouse (1792) Smart shoes made to fit without a last (1794) 175 The Rag Fair (1780s) 176 Shoemaker's label [72] 177 Trade card-John Snowden, shoemaker Trade card-Thomas Berry, clog maker 179 Label table 180 The cobbler (1780s) 181 Embroidery patterns for shoe uppers 182 Embroidery patterns for shoe uppers 183 Leather sole [1] 184 Leather uppers [61] 185 Leather insole and linings [50] 186 Vertical cross-section of calfskin 187 Process of leather manufacture 188 Scudding and washing (1763) 189 Liming (1763) 190 Beaming 191 Tanning pits 192 Curriers-paring and perching 193 Morocco leather shoe [88] 194 Processes of morocco leather manufacture 195 Sumach tanning 196 Staking 197 Tawed leather insole and linings [52] 198 Costs of tanning 199 Linen upper linings and sock [65] 200 Tabby weave unbleached linen [38] 201 White linen thread stitching [12] 202 Processes of linen manufacture 203 Beating, scutching and hackling flax (1791) 204 View of a scutch mill (1791) 205 Spinning and reeling with the clock reel and boiling the yarn (1791) 206 Winding and warping (1791) 207 Bleach mill (1791) 208 Bleach green (1791) 209 Lapping room (1791) 210 The linen draper (1818) 211 Silk top binding and brocade [62] 212 Embroidered upper [87] 213 Embroidered upper [57] 214 Clogs with silk latchets [103] Processes of silk manufacture 216 Life cycle of silk worm 217 Reeling Winding Spinning Dyeing 221 Drying 222 Brocade weaving loom Plain weave Plain weave (grosgrain) ribbon and satin weave fabric [3] 225 Twill weave 226 Satin weave 227 Damask [41] 228 Brocade-face 229 Brocade-recto 230 Figured silk [50] 231 Figured silk [55] 232 Figured silk [64] 233 Table showing silk designs 234 Industry and idleness 235 Industry and idleness 236 Wool satin weaves (callimanco) [69, 81, 83, 93] 237 Wool damask [31] 238 Stuff shoes and clog linings [23, 103] 239 Wool trimmings [31, 53, 69, 93] 240 Processes of wool manufacture 241 Washing and willowing 242 Combing 243 Spinning 244 Weaving 245 Nap raising 246 Cutting 247 Interior of a cloth hall 248 Norwich wool brocade shoes 249 Cotton covered shoe [44] 250 Processes of cotton manufacture 251 Cotton picking 252 Cotton gin 253 Carding 254 Spinning Jenny 255 The weaver (1807) 256 a&b Velvet shoe [70] 257 Crofting The calico printer (1807) 259 Cylinder machine printing 260 Cotton mill (1838) 261 Metal thread woven in brocade [62] 262 Metal thread braids [35] 263 Spangles [51] 264 Embroidery [26] 265 Buckles 266 Rust marks [37] 267 Metal threads and wires 268 Metal strip woven [54] 269 Metal strip embroidered [50] 270 Wire drawing 271 Metal threads and wires 272 Purl [105] 273 Spangles [46] 274 Core thread [29] 275 Core thread [4] 276 Damask braid [10] 277 Woodworm holes in heel [20] 278 Shoemaker's label [67] 279 The paper maker (1807) 280 Starch processing 281 The cork cutter (1807) 282 Shoe [16] 283 Shoe [78] 284 Soiling on heel [53] 285 Soiling on top piece [37] 286 Repair [7] 287 Repair [42] 288 Repair [49] 289 Fading on upper [9] 290 Particulate deposition on heel [38] 291 Woodworm damage [8] 292 Moth damage [83] 293 Mildew [103] 294 Delaminating leather [48] 295 Leather ingrained with dirt [60] 296 Embrittled, cracked and delaminated leather [92] 297 Embrittled, cracked and delaminated leather [85] 298 Cracking and embrittled silk [82] 299 Split and degraded silk [21] 300 Silk lining [22] Cast case of clothes moth [40] 302 Cracked and degraded silk [13] 303 Cracked and degraded silk [4] Cracked and degraded silk [28] 305 Moth damage on wool shoes [23] Moth damage on wool shoes [17] 307 Moth damage on wool shoes [31] 308 Moth damage on wool shoes [81] 309 Rusted buckle on latchet [2] 310 Iron corrosion stain [39] 311 Corroded iron tacks [11] 312 Tarnished metal threads [4] 313 Corrosion products on linen [37] 314 Split wood [11] 315 Paper shoemaker's label [84] 316 Paper shoemaker's label [15] 317 Paper shoemaker's label [94] 318 Wear on sole and top piece [20] 319 Wear on sole and top piece [42] 320 Wear on sole and top piece [94] 321 Scuffed heel cover [84] 322 Scuffed heel covers [57] 323 Backstrap [94] 324 Backstrap [28] 325 Wrinkled heel covers [23] 326 Wrinkled heel covers [25] 327 Damage to tip [83] 328 Damage to tip [40] 329 Damage to tip [43] 330 Damage to tip [32] 331 Damage to tip [42] 332 Failed side seam [62] 333 Failed side seam [41] 334 Failed side seam [75] 335 Squashed and pierced latchet [59] 336 Damaged latchet [38] 337 Damaged latchet [22] 338 Damaged latchet [29] 339 Discolouration and staining of white tawed leather linings [93] 340 Discolouration and staining of white tawed leather linings [77] 341 Discolouration and staining of white tawed leather linings [79] 342 Cream satin stained by black tissue paper [66] 343 Discolouration on vamp [74] Nylon tulle overlay [5] Nylon tulle overlay [5] 346 Silk underlay [45] 347 Couching 348 Adhesive use [53] Crepeline overlay [14] 350 Overlay and couching [14] 351 Worn sole [45] 352 Egyptian shoe before conservation 353 Egyptian shoe after conservation 354 Tissue support [78] 355 Collapsed quarters [77] 356 Shoe support [58] 357 Shoe support [45] 358 Plastazote shoe support 359 Plastazote shoe support in shoe [27] 360 Ethafoam rod support 361 Polyester wadding support covered with calico 362 Melinex used to support loops on slapsole 363 Black tissue paper 364 Bata shoe museum store 365 V&A shoe store 366 Shoe box storage 367 Shoe box storage [58] 368 Plastazote cut out tray 369 Plastazote cut out tray 370 Plastazote cut out tray 371 Tray for shoes 372 Correx tray for shoes 373 V&A shoe display 374 V&A shoes on display 375 Museum of London-Ann Fanshawe dress 376 Museum of London-Pleasure garden room 377 Clarks Museum show case 1650-1750 378 Northampton Museum gallery 379 Conservation of Egyptian shoe 380 Conservation of Egyptian shoe 381 Conservation of Egyptian shoe 382 Conservation of Egyptian shoe 383 Conservation checklist 384 Loose conservation stitching [27] 385 Starch paste to secure loose threads [27] 386 Shoes 387 Shoes Shoe-Clarks Museum W17sd2 Supplied data Observations 1725 No reason given for precise dating but consistent with shoes of that decade. Lace shoe Presumably this refers to the method of fastening although it could also define the braid. Green silk brocade Green silk damask. Gold wire braid Most likely silver gilt threads used as evidenced by the tarnishing.

The article addresses the challenge of combining the very diverse fields of archaeology and fashion. The Museum of Copenhagen has carried out a number of major archaeological excavations that have contributed substantially to the museum's footwear collection, now consisting of approximately 6500 shoes and shoe parts. An ongoing PhD project aims to investigate aspects that affected Copenhageners' footwear in the period 1200-1800 AD, and to explore the relationship between craft and the functional and fashion-related aspects of how footwear developed, was designed and worn. The shoes themselves, written and Vivi Lena Andersen 2 iconographic sources, natural sciences and experimental collaborations with modern-day shoemakers and foot specialists shed new light on our understanding of footwear history. Footwear was originally invented to protect feet against natural and climatic conditions, but it also became an indicator of how we want to be seen by others-with fashion seemingly being a crucial aspect of how and why footwear developed the way it did. In the analysis of the choice and need dichotomy there are interesting approaches in the theory of human-thing entanglement and engaging archaeologically with the fashion phenomenon that can bring new perspectives on past, present and future.