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Ottoman Jaffa: From Pilgrims’ Anchorage to Regional Center.

2017

Abstract

Salvage excavations conducted over the last two decades in Jaffa, Israel, yielded substantial remains from the late 18th to the early 20th centuries. Excavated sites included a flea market, a fishermen's harbor, a former prison, an old hospital, busy commercial streets and other irregular archaeological settings. The results tell a different story than that which is conveyed in the street-level records of nineteenth century Western travelers. They described a stagnant, plague-ridden backwater of the crumbling Ottoman Empire, governed by inept and corrupt officials. Yet comprehensive research reveals a dynamic period of urban expansion and notable efforts in construction, infrastructure and aesthetics. Within a relatively short period, a dormant and neglected harbor evolved into a vibrant community where Europe met the Ottoman Levant in an array of tangible and spiritual aspects. By the turn of the 20th century Jaffa boasted European neo-classic buildings next to Near Eastern vaulted halls, church steeples near mosque minarets, serpentine lanes linked to fine paved streets, underground sewer systems, night illumination and markets trading local and European goods. However, development demanded some ruthless measures: ramparts were dismantled, orchards uprooted and bazaars demolished. Hundreds of burials discovered in recent excavations under modern streets belonged to a 19th-century municipal cemetery of which all tombstones were removed and to which no visible evidence remains. In the course of research, material remains are examined along with original texts, maps, artwork and early photographs. These remarkable historical documents reflect various angles of urban growth and alteration, their effects, patterns and social cost. Thus, beyond its local importance, the investigation of 19th-century Jaffa exemplifies archaeological, textual, cartographic, artistic and photographic resources combined to shed light on broad change processes in a traditional city.