Textiles and Cult in the Ancient Mediterranean.

Textiles comprise a vast and wide category of material culture and constitute a crucial part of the ancient economy. Yet, studies of classical antiquity still often leave out this important category of material culture, partly due to the textiles themselves being only rarely preserved in the archaeological record. This neglect is also prevalent in scholarship on ancient Greek religion and ritual, although it is one of the most vibrant and rapidly developing branches of classical scholarship. The aim of the present enquiry is, therefore, to introduce textiles into the study of ancient Greek religion and thereby illuminate the roles textiles played in the performance of Greek ritual and their wider consequences. Among the questions posed are how and where we can detect the use of textiles in the sanctuaries, and how they were used in rituals including their impact on the performance of these rituals and the people involved. Chapters centre on three themes: first, the dedication of textiles and clothing accessories in Greek sanctuaries is investigated through a thorough examination of the temple inventories. Second, the use of textiles to dress ancient cult images is explored. The examination of Hellenistic and Roman copies of ancient cult images from Asia Minor as well as depictions of cult images in vase-painting in collocation with written sources illustrates the existence of this particular ritual custom in ancient Greece. Third, the existence of dress codes in the Greek sanctuaries is addressed through an investigation of the existence of particular attire for ritual personnel as well as visitors to the sanctuaries with the help of iconography and written sources. By merging the study of Greek religion and the study of textiles, the current study illustrates how textiles are, indeed, central materialisations of Greek cult, by reason of their capacity to accentuate and epitomize aspects of identity, spirituality, position in the religious system, by their forms as links between the maker, user, wearer, but also as key material agents in the performance of rituals and communication with the divine.

2022

This volume provides an ambitious synopsis of the complex, colourful world of textiles in ancient Mediterranean iconography. A wealth of information on ancient textiles is available from depictions such as sculpture, vase painting, figurines, reliefs and mosaics. Commonly represented in clothing, textiles are also present in furnishings and through the processes of textile production. The challenge for anyone analysing ancient iconography is determining how we interpret what we see. As preserved textiles rarely survive in comparable forms, we must consider the extent to which representations of textiles reflect reality, and critically evaluate the sources. Images are not simple replicas or photographs of reality. Instead, iconography draws on select elements from the surrounding world that were recognisable to the ancient audience, and reveal the perceptions, ideologies, and ideas of the society in which they were produced. Through examining the durable evidence, this anthology reveals the ephemeral world of textiles and their integral role in the daily life, cult and economy of the ancient Mediterranea

Textiles & Identity in the Medieval and Εarly Modern Mediterranean: paradigms of contexts and cross-cultural exchanges Textiles offer a rich opportunity to explore the projection of identity, both within and between social and cultural groups. A pertinent arena for such an exploration is the intercultural region of the Mediterranean. This workshop will bring together a group of junior and senior scholars to investigate and elucidate the role of textiles in the cultures of the Medieval and early Modern Mediterranean, and its periphery, with a focus on specific case studies. Our investigation will analyze textiles as tools for projecting identity within specific contexts, whether cross-cultural or not. Institutionalized practices of textile use and reuse, written and unwritten rules governing ceremonial use, the departure from standard practices, the active reception of imports and their interpretation will form the major topics examined by the participating scholars. Our directed investigation will seek to identity parallels and points of contact between the use of textiles in various political entities, and among social groups and cultures. Program 3 June 2016 Venue: Museum of Islamic Art, 22 Ag. Asomaton & 12 Dipylou St., Athens Welcoming remarks 9:30 John Bennet, British School at Athens 9:40 Mina Moraitou, Benaki Museum Opening remarks 9:50 Nikolaos Vryzidis, British School at Athens 1. Medieval Islamic textiles in the Eastern Mediterranean 10:00 Alison Ohta, Royal Asiatic Society of Great Britain & Ireland: Chair 10:10 Scott Redford, SOAS-University of London: ‘Seljuk silks, standards and emblems’ 10:30 Marielle Martiniani-Reber, Musées d’Art et d’Histoire de Genève: ‘The relationship between Islamic and Byzantine textiles during the Middle Byzantine period’ 10: 50 Maria Sardi, SOAS-University of London: ‘Towards a standardization of Mamluk aesthetic: influences and identity as reflected on textiles’ 11:10 Discussion 11:30 Coffee break 2. Western Mediterranean cross-cultural encounters 11:40 Mina Moraitou, Benaki Museum: Chair 11: 50 Ana Cabrera, Museo Nacional de Artes Decorativas & Laura Rodríguez Peinado, Universidad Complutense de Madrid: ‘Medieval Textiles from the Iberian Peninsula: state of the art and new approaches of study’ 12:20 Vera-Simone Schulz, Kunsthistorisches Institut in Florenz: ‘Entangled Identities: Textiles and the Art and Architecture of the Italian Peninsula in a Mediterranean Perspective’ 12:40 Discussion 13:00 Lunch break 3. The multi-cultural Ottoman Empire 14:00 Helen Philon, Independent scholar: Chair 14:10 Anna Ballian, Benaki Museum (Emerita): ‘Chios silks’ 14:30 Amanda Philips, University of Virginia: ‘Interventions in technology and fashion: the case of Ottoman compound weaves’ 14:50 Elena Papastavrou, Hellenic Ministry of Culture & Sports: ‘Greek-Orthodox cultural identity as reflected on Constantinopolitan Church Embroidery’ 15:10 Discussion 15:30 Coffee break 4. Eastern and Oriental Orthodox Christian textiles 15:40 Warren Woodfin, City University of New York: Chair 15:50 Dickran Kouymjian, California State University-Fresno (Emeritus): ‘Armenian Altar Curtains: Repository of Tradition and Innovation’ 16:10 Nikolaos Vryzidis, British School at Athens: ‘Animal motifs on Asian silks used by the Greek Church: an afterlife of Byzantine iconography?’ 16: 30 Jacopo Gnisci, Independent scholar: ‘Towards a History of Ecclesiastical Dress in Early Solomonic Ethiopia’ 16:50 Discussion General discussion and concluding remarks 17:10 Nikolaos Vryzidis, British School at Athens End 4 June 2016 Study day (attendance by invitation only) 10:00-13:00 Handling session (Benaki Museum Peiraios annex), hosted by Mina Moraitou 15:00 Museum visit (Benaki Museum main building), hosted by Anastasia Drandaki End

Oxbow Books, 2014

Greek and roman textiles and dress : an interdisciplinary anthology / edited by mary Harlow and marielouise nosch. pages cm.-(ancient textiles series ; Vol. 19) This anthology is the second volume of two which group interdisciplinary contributions to the field of textile research. The first volume is Mary Harlow, Cécile Michel & Marie-Louise Nosch (eds), Prehistoric, ancient near eastern and aegean Textiles and dress: an interdisciplinary anthology. includes bibliographical references and index. isBn 978-1-78297-715-5 (alk. paper) 1. Textile fabrics, ancient-Greece. 2. Textile fabrics, roman. 3. Clothing and dress-Greece-History-To 500. 4. Clothing and dress-rome. i. Harlow, mary, 1956-editor. ii. nosch, marie-louise, editor. nk8907.3G74 2015 746.0938-dc23 2014039326 all rights reserved. no part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical including photocopying, recording or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission from the publisher in writing.

in Fejfer, J., M. Moltesen & A. Rathje (eds.): Tradition. Transmission of Culture in the Ancient World. Acta Hyperborea 14., 2014

Ras Shamra/Ugarit contributes top textual and archaeological data to the study of the manufacture and use of textiles in the Levant in the Late Bronze Age. Texts provide information on various industrial and artisan crafts regarding textile industry whereas the exploitation of archaeological data remains still at an early stage. It is nowadays essential for investigation work to combine both perspectives: textual and material and to contrast the analysis of archaeological and iconographic documentation with written sources. The workshop held in Copenhagen gave the opportunity to investigate the documentation related to textiles in ritual and cultic practices. V. Matoïan, in collaboration with J.-P. Vita, studied the ritual texts (less than ten) which mention—with greater or lesser certainty—textile offerings to divinities as well as two administrative texts which complement and extend the information provided by ritual texts regarding garments for the statues of gods. Then, they investigated iconographical evidence, specially the figures of veiled women (priestess, queen, goddess ?).

Textiles. Trade and Theories, from the Ancient Near East to the Mediterranean. Karum – Emporion – Forum. Beiträge zur Wirtschafts-, Rechts- und Sozialgeschichte des östlichen Mittelmeerraums und Altvorderasiens. Band 2. Ugarit-Verlag, Münster, 2016

Textile Trade and Distribution II: From the Ancient Near East to the Mediterranean (1000 BC-400 AD),, 2016