List of publications - books and book chapters. Per 2018

2015

Citation for published version (APA): Alberti, M. E., Aravantinos, V., Fappas, I., Papadaki, A., Rougemont, F., Andersson Strand, E., ... Cutler, J. (2015). Textile tools from Thebes, mainland Greece. In E. Andersson Strand, & M-L. Nosch (Eds.), Tools, Textiles and Contexts: Investigating Textile Production in the Aegean and Eastern Mediterranean Bronze Age (pp. 279-292). Oxbow Books. ancient textiles series, Vol.. 21

2018

Citation for published version (APA): Poursat, J-C., Rougemont, F., Cutler, J., Andersson Strand, E., & Nosch, M. L. B. (2015). Textile tools from Quartier Mu, Malia, Crete, Greece. In E. Andersson Strand, & M-L. Nosch (Eds.), Tools, Textiles and Contexts: Investigating Textile Production in the Aegean and Eastern Mediterranean Bronze Age (pp. 229-242). Oxbow Books. ancient textiles series, Vol.. 21

In 2013-2017 a research project “Greek Textile Tools. Continuity and changes in textile production in Early Bronze Age Greece” was undertaken in the Centre for Textile Research (CTR), SAXO Institute at the University of Copenhagen within a Marie Skłodowska Curie fellowship (FP7-PEOPLE-2012-IEF, PIEF-GA-2012-329910). Its aim was to investigate , development and changes of textile tools, techniques of textile making, as well as influences from Anatolia and the Balkans on textile production in Early Helladic Greece. The research was based on a thorough investigation and analysis of archaeological finds from excavations mainly in the Peloponnese (predominantly spindle whorls and loom weights), experimental tests undertaken at CTR and the University of Warsaw (by courtesy of Dr. Agata Ulanowska), as well as collected ethnographical, zooarchaeological and archaeobotanical data. In this paper, the main results of the project will be summarised with emphasis on 1. Changes in spinning and weaving during Greek Early Bronze Age; 2. New textile implements and techniques; 3. Use of plant vs. animal fibres; 4. Organisation of textile production.

Tools, textiles and contexts : textile production in the Aegean and Eastern Mediterranean Bronze Age edited by Eva Andersson Strand and Marie-Louise Nosch. (Ancient textiles series; vol. 21)

in E. Andersson Strand & M.-L. Nosch (eds), Tools, Textiles and Contexts: Investigating Textile Production in the Aegean and Eastern Mediterranean Bronze Age. Ancient Textiles Series Vol. 21. Oxbox Books, pp. 293-297, 2015

Tools, textiles and contexts : textile production in the Aegean and Eastern Mediterranean Bronze Age / edited by Eva Andersson Strand and Marie-Louise Nosch. pages cm.-(Ancient textiles series; vol. 21) Includes bibliographical references. ISBN 978-1-84217-472-2 (hardback) 1. Bronze age-Middle East. 2. Textile fabrics, Prehistoric-Middle East. 3. Neolithic period-Middle East. 4. Bronze age-Aegean Islands (Greece and Turkey) 5. Neolithic period-Aegean Islands (Greece and Turkey) 6. Middle East-Antiquities. 7. Aegean Islands (Greece and Turkey)-Antiquities. I. Strand, Eva B. Andersson, editor. II. Nosch, Marie-Louise, editor. GN778.32.N4T66 2015 939.4-dc23 2015027222 All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical including photocopying, recording or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission from the publisher in writing.

Louise Quillien – Kalliope Sarri (Eds.) Textile Workers, 2020

Prehistoric textile production continues to attract the interest of scholars studying the remains of textiles as well as textile tools made of various materials, particularly clay, stone and bone. From Early Bronze Age (EBA) Greece (the 3rd millennium BC), almost no actual fabrics have been preserved, thus textile research can only investigate the numerous implements used in their production which were primarily found in the settlements. The aim of this paper is to discuss craftsmanship in EBA Greece. New insights regarding textile tools, yarn manufacture and weaving, and the organisation of production will be presented. The textile implements commonly preserved display various qualities and methods of production, from ‘home-made’ to standardised. Therefore, it seems that in some cases they may have been made by professional craftspeople and widely distributed, while in other cases they were made instead for private use. By analysing the archaeological contexts of such finds (especially clay spindle whorls and loom-weights), it is to a certain extent possible to reconstruct patterns in their use, for example regarding the working areas and the organisation of textile manufacture. There is no reliable evidence for specialised textile workshops in this period and a household-based production or individual/home industry is more probable. On account of the wide range of types and dimensions of spindle whorls and loom-weights, it can be assumed that textile craftspeople developed specialised skills in the manufacturing of yarns of various thicknesses and quality and textiles of diverse quality, patterns and weaves, according to their needs or the requirements of the market, whether it was local or part of wider trade routes. Keywords: Aegean; Early Bronze Age; textile production; textile workers; textile tools; craftsmanship

Prehistoric textile production has recently seen an increasing interest among scholars. New research on diverse aspects has been undertaken in order to improve our comprehension of the crucial craft of fabric and cloth manufacture in prehistoric times. Since textiles are hardly ever preserved in the archaeological material at prehistoric Greek sites, we can only investigate other remains related to textile production, especially textile implements made of clay, stone and bone. While it is relatively easy to identify the main types of clay spindle whorls, loom weights or needles, other classes of implements have proved to be more difficult to classify. This is true especially for bone tools, which are commonly found in prehistoric contexts, but their functions often remain unclear. Also various stone implements, e.g. pierced discs, may have been used in textile production, but this still needs to be verified through further studies and experiments. This paper will present various classes of Greek Early Bronze Age objects which have never before been considered as potential textile tools. The aim is to turn our attention to commonly neglected artefacts, which were often, especially in older publications, published without further examination or interpretations, but, in my view, might well have been related to textile production. Moreover, the functions of other artefacts, such as pierced clay discs, spools, and bone implements will be reconsidered.

The manufacture of textiles and garments had a long tradition in the Aegean already prior to the beginnings of the Early Bronze Age. Numerous textile tools, especially spindle whorls and loom weights, are preserved from the Neolithic sites which demonstrate that spinning with spindle whorls and weaving on the warp-weighted loom were commonly practiced. Plant fibres, particularly linen, seem to have been the main material for the production of cloth and textiles during this period. At some point, most probably during the Early Bronze Age, animal fibres (sheep wool) began to be used in the Aegean on a wider scale. Since hardly any Neolithic and Early Bronze textiles are preserved from the Aegean, we can study textile tools made of stone, bone and clay in order to comprehend technological traditions and innovations in textile production. Diachronic changes in the use of spindle whorls and loom weights (their weights, dimensions and shapes) may shed some light on alternations in not only fibre use, but also in various spinning and weaving techniques. In this paper I would like to focus on chosen aspects of textile implements from Early Bronze Age Peloponnese.

Tools, textiles and contexts : textile production in the Aegean and Eastern Mediterranean Bronze Age edited by Eva Andersson Strand and Marie-Louise Nosch. (Ancient textiles series; vol. 21)

THE SIGNIFICANCE OF ARCHAEOLOGICAL TEXTILES. Papers of the International Online Conference 24th–25th February 2021, J. Banck-Burgess, E. Marinova, D. Mischka (eds), 2023

It is assumed that introduction of woolly wool (or long-staple wool) occurred in the Aegean in the Early Bronze Age (3rd millennium BCE). At that time, plant-based fibres had already been exploited for generations for making clothes, household fabrics, and other commonly used textiles. There is no doubt that the new wool fibres have considerably changed textile production, not only in the Aegean, but also in other areas of prehistoric Europe and the Eastern Mediterranean. Novel types of textiles, such as garments of di‚erent properties than those made of plantbased fibres, could now be woven on looms, and therefore produced on a large scale, both for private purpose, and for exchange or redistribution by political and economic centres. The new fabrics must have been attractive as they were warm, soft, fine, dense, and water-resistant, and they could be dyed in a range of colours and hues. All this may have changed fashion, while textiles and textile production gained new social and economic significance. The great economic role of textile production in the Aegean can be studied through much later, Late Bronze Age (Mycenaean) Linear B texts, and we could assume that its beginnings took place already in the Early Bronze Age. Various sources are studied in order to better understand innovations, changes, and developments of textile production in its early stages. In case of the Early Bronze Age Aegean, where practically no archaeological textiles have been preserved, we can only focus on plentiful textile tools, and refer to archaeozoological and archaeobotanical remains, in order to discuss the issue of wool introduction. The spread of this innovation must have been a process, which took a fair amount of time. The question arises how far these changes can be traced through modification of textile tools, particularly of spindle whorls, as we know that wool requires di‚erent types of spinning tools than flax. The paper also discusses who made textiles in this period and where, and what social meaning textile production may have had.