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Between Sky and Earth

2023, Duke University Press eBooks

chapter seven Between Sky and Earth biodynamic viticulture ' s slow science deborah heath standing at the threshold between local rootedness and global expansion, grapevines portend changes in our shared planetary metabolism. Deep-rooted, long-lived perennials of the genus Vitis, grapevines can persist in place for centuries, with some surviving specimens as much as four hundred years old. Anchored in their par tic u lar locales, grapes are touted by wine connoisseurs as exemplary emissaries of terroir, the "taste of place" (Trubek 2009), expressing the particularities of the limestone, or clay, or volcanic soil where they grow. They also actively participate in the microbial terroirs of their soil microbiomes and of the native yeasts that live on grape clusters. Biodynamic viticulture nurtures these local biologies that are threatened by conventional agriculture's chemical inputs and capitalism's enduring extractivism. Domesticated for millennia, grapes, and the means to ferment them, have also traveled widely with their human companions, following the paths of Roman and Eu ro pean imperial expansion and carried forth by traders, missionaries, and settler colonists, taking root in temperate zones on either side of the equator. Grapes' noteworthy sensitivity to temperature variation has