Skip to main content

iva milivojevic jestratijevic

University of North Texas, Merchandising and Digital Retailing, Faculty Member

Ohio State University, Fashion and Retail Studies, Faculty Member

Followers

704

Following

29

Public Views

Phd. abstract

Clothing is a boundary between the body as a material artifact and the public body as an object of different social roles. That ungrateful and complex role of clothing significantly affects the character of the clothing practice and accordingly it is defined as: a natural human need to protect a human body, but also an active manner of the construction of the self. By being dressed, the body takes different materials and different layers of meaning . Meanings , which in this case are constituted around the clothing individual, are primarily based on the construction establishment of socially recognizable categories, which define the concerned subject as a member of certain class, status, gender, age, sex, occupational, religious group. Observed from that aspect, individual clothing can be seen as a kind of cultural text through which or by which certain/chosen/wanted identity is created. Even though fashion is not a language in the original sense of Saussure’s understanding of this term, it does not diminish its ability of creating socially relevant meanings. On the contrary, fashion system makes a specific communication system. Fashion language is a visual language, which enables the application of all semiotic rules in language, text, body as a picture or an icon . Therefore, the basic motive of this research is the need for the analysis of complex and multifunctional fashion clothing area. (etc.)
Address: Columbus, OH

less

University of the Arts London

Kunsthochschule Berlin-Weißensee

Kate Goldsworthy

University of the Arts London

Kolding School of Design

Giuseppe Salvia

University College London

anika kozlowski

Toronto Metropolitan University

InterestsView All (6)

Uploads

Books by iva milivojevic jestratijevic

Medjuratna moda Beograda 1918-1941.pdf

In History of Art in Serbia: XX century Ed. Misko Suvakovic Orion Art, 2014

moda i semiotika roda

STUDIJA MODE: ZNACI I ZNACENJA ODEVNE PRAKSE

Ubrzanim razvojem studija kulture poslednjih decenija XX veka konačno se prevazilaze svi nedostac... more Ubrzanim razvojem studija kulture poslednjih decenija XX veka konačno se prevazilaze svi nedostaci prethodnih pristupa ovoj zahtevnoj društvenoj i kulturnoj praksi. Studije mode postaju jedan od integralnih podsistema u okviru savremenih studija kulture i u tom smislu telo i odelo čine neraskidivu celinu koja se menja u skladu sa promenama koje diktira okruženje, odnosno, kulturni i društveni kontekst u kojem se realizuje individualno postojanje putem prezentovanja niza nekoherentnih kulturalnih identiteta. Knjiga Studija mode predstavlja naučni pristup razvoja mode kao važnog segmenta kulturalne prakse i obuhvata istorijski okvir evolucije odevnih formi i njihovih prvobitnih funkcija, pa preko evolucije moderne odeće i izvora proučavanja predmeta mode, prateći tekstualne teorije analize mode i mode kao domena proizvodnje kulturalnih identiteta do industrijske revolucije i društvenog značaja (nove) mode.

STUDIJA MODE - ZNACI I ZNACENJA ODEVNE PRAKSE

Sadržaj: Apstrakt ................................................................................. more Sadržaj:

Apstrakt ........................................................................................................................ 3
Abstract ........................................................................................................................ 5
* Uvod ........................................................................................................................ 7
I MODA KAO TEKST KULTURE ................................................................ 16
1.1. Istorijski okviri evolucije odevnih formi i njihovih prvobitnih funkcija .......... 16
1.2. Odevanje i moda ............................................................................................... 20
1.3. Evolucija moderne odeće i izvori proučavanja predmeta mode ....................... 26
1.3.1. Moda između umetnosti i zanatstva ...................................................... 29
1.3.2. Visoka moda (Haute couture) i prvi modni kreatori ............................ 35
1.3.3. Razvojne tendencije modernog sistema mode ...................................... 41
II TEKSTUALNE TEORIJE ANALIZE MODE ............................................ 49
2.1. Operativne definicije mode ............................................................................... 49
2.2. Sistem teksta, mode i identiteta ........................................................................ 52
2.3. Istorija teorija i analitičkih pristupa .................................................................. 55
2.4. Sistem jezika, teksta i komunikacije ................................................................. 63
2.4.1. Tri odevna predmeta .............................................................................. 67
2.4.2. Retorika mode ....................................................................................... 70
2.4.3. Tekstualne teorije analize mode ............................................................ 80
III MODNI TEKST I IDENTITET .................................................................... 85
3.1. Moda kao domen proizvodnje kulturalnih identiteta ........................................ 85
3.2. Moda i klasni identitet ...................................................................................... 95
3.2.1 Trickle - down model širenja mode ...................................................... 101
3.2.2 Industrijska revolucija i društveni značaj (nove) mode ....................... 104
3.3. Identitet modernizma ........................................................................................ 109
3.3.1. Trickle – up model širenja mode .......................................................... 111
3.3.2. Bipolaran sistem proizvodnje mode: Haute couture vs Prêt-a-porte .. 115
3.3.3. Supkulturalna (anti)moda-stil kao značenjska praksa ......................... 124
3.4. Moda, rodni i seksualni identiteti ..................................................................... 137
3.4.1 Psihoanalitička interpretacija odevnih značenja .................................. 145
3.4.2. Feminizam i izvođenje alternativnih ženskih identiteta ...................... 152
3.5. Postmoderna moda i fluidni kulturalni identiteti ............................................. 165
3.5.1. Moda „industrija” komunikacije .......................................................... 177
3.5.2. Postkolonijalne modne tendencije ....................................................... 189
3.5.3. Moda/antimoda vs fast/slow fashion ................................................... 205
IV STUDIJA SLUČAJA ..................................................................................... 214
4.1. Džins i subverzija značenja u odevnoj modi .................................................... 214
** Zaključak .......................................................................................................... 237
Apendix I - Reč Moda, Valerie Steele….………………………………………………………258
Apendix II – Upitnik (1929), John Carl Flugel…………………………………………..260

Papers by iva milivojevic jestratijevic

Six Forms of Sustainable Fashion

Six Forms of Sustainable Fashion, 2018

Citation: Iva Jestratijevic, Nancy A Rudd. Six Forms of Sustainable Fashion. Trends in Textile & ... more

uvod u studije mode

Art and Media Magazine

Egzoticni kodovi u socijalistickoj oficijelnoj modi

published in: dr Misko Suvakovic : Istorija Umetnosti u Srbiji, tom II Modernizmi i realizmi

rhetorics of fashion

unit one - key elements (teaching file)

clean up or die !

industry must sell, but consumers don't have to buy

umetnost i mediji u funkciji evropskih integracija-book part

EUROPEANIZATION OF PRINTED MEDIA IN SERBIA S u m m a r y The world’s magazine industry has been... more EUROPEANIZATION OF PRINTED MEDIA IN SERBIA

S u m m a r y

The world’s magazine industry has been expanding continuously. In addition to the launch of
new titles, an increasing number of popular magazines are crossing national borders and becoming
a globally present and recognized cultural brands. A relatively young market of women’s popular
press in our country, which has been growing slowly but steadily over the past couple of years,
has been chosen as the most representative example of this trend. The Europeanization of the
entire field of printed media in Serbia has generated an increase in the overall production of printed
media directed at women (domestic vs international editions) as well as further segmentation
of the aforesaid. Furthermore, the trend of standardization of the content of popular press targeted
at women is quite noticeable. In this way, popular texts (and their meanings) in the local context
can be viewed as an extension of the global production of media content, as well as an instrument
for spreading present femininity paradigms in a contemporary environment. Given that permeation
of these globally–popular products, as creations of the center, contribute to the development
of the policy of cultural diversities in a local context; the example of development of licensing of
commercial women’s magazines has been chosen to show the aforementioned trend and to point
out to the need that in this abundance of archetypal products preservation and development of local
press production is of prime importance.
Key words: glocalisation, consumer magazines, lifestyle magazines, media public, media content,
popular text, rhetoric of photography, representation, reading of media messages, meanings,
connotation/denotation, inter–textuality
Ključne reči: glokalizacija, potrošački magazini, lifestyle magazini, medijska publika, medijski
sadržaj, popularan tekst, retorika fotografije, reprezentacija, čitanje medijske poruke, značenja,
konotacija/denotacija, intertekstualnost.

Filozofske igracke teatra

Medjuratna moda Beograda 1918-1941.pdf

In History of Art in Serbia: XX century Ed. Misko Suvakovic Orion Art, 2014

moda i semiotika roda

STUDIJA MODE: ZNACI I ZNACENJA ODEVNE PRAKSE

Ubrzanim razvojem studija kulture poslednjih decenija XX veka konačno se prevazilaze svi nedostac... more Ubrzanim razvojem studija kulture poslednjih decenija XX veka konačno se prevazilaze svi nedostaci prethodnih pristupa ovoj zahtevnoj društvenoj i kulturnoj praksi. Studije mode postaju jedan od integralnih podsistema u okviru savremenih studija kulture i u tom smislu telo i odelo čine neraskidivu celinu koja se menja u skladu sa promenama koje diktira okruženje, odnosno, kulturni i društveni kontekst u kojem se realizuje individualno postojanje putem prezentovanja niza nekoherentnih kulturalnih identiteta. Knjiga Studija mode predstavlja naučni pristup razvoja mode kao važnog segmenta kulturalne prakse i obuhvata istorijski okvir evolucije odevnih formi i njihovih prvobitnih funkcija, pa preko evolucije moderne odeće i izvora proučavanja predmeta mode, prateći tekstualne teorije analize mode i mode kao domena proizvodnje kulturalnih identiteta do industrijske revolucije i društvenog značaja (nove) mode.

STUDIJA MODE - ZNACI I ZNACENJA ODEVNE PRAKSE

Sadržaj: Apstrakt ................................................................................. more Sadržaj:

Apstrakt ........................................................................................................................ 3
Abstract ........................................................................................................................ 5
* Uvod ........................................................................................................................ 7
I MODA KAO TEKST KULTURE ................................................................ 16
1.1. Istorijski okviri evolucije odevnih formi i njihovih prvobitnih funkcija .......... 16
1.2. Odevanje i moda ............................................................................................... 20
1.3. Evolucija moderne odeće i izvori proučavanja predmeta mode ....................... 26
1.3.1. Moda između umetnosti i zanatstva ...................................................... 29
1.3.2. Visoka moda (Haute couture) i prvi modni kreatori ............................ 35
1.3.3. Razvojne tendencije modernog sistema mode ...................................... 41
II TEKSTUALNE TEORIJE ANALIZE MODE ............................................ 49
2.1. Operativne definicije mode ............................................................................... 49
2.2. Sistem teksta, mode i identiteta ........................................................................ 52
2.3. Istorija teorija i analitičkih pristupa .................................................................. 55
2.4. Sistem jezika, teksta i komunikacije ................................................................. 63
2.4.1. Tri odevna predmeta .............................................................................. 67
2.4.2. Retorika mode ....................................................................................... 70
2.4.3. Tekstualne teorije analize mode ............................................................ 80
III MODNI TEKST I IDENTITET .................................................................... 85
3.1. Moda kao domen proizvodnje kulturalnih identiteta ........................................ 85
3.2. Moda i klasni identitet ...................................................................................... 95
3.2.1 Trickle - down model širenja mode ...................................................... 101
3.2.2 Industrijska revolucija i društveni značaj (nove) mode ....................... 104
3.3. Identitet modernizma ........................................................................................ 109
3.3.1. Trickle – up model širenja mode .......................................................... 111
3.3.2. Bipolaran sistem proizvodnje mode: Haute couture vs Prêt-a-porte .. 115
3.3.3. Supkulturalna (anti)moda-stil kao značenjska praksa ......................... 124
3.4. Moda, rodni i seksualni identiteti ..................................................................... 137
3.4.1 Psihoanalitička interpretacija odevnih značenja .................................. 145
3.4.2. Feminizam i izvođenje alternativnih ženskih identiteta ...................... 152
3.5. Postmoderna moda i fluidni kulturalni identiteti ............................................. 165
3.5.1. Moda „industrija” komunikacije .......................................................... 177
3.5.2. Postkolonijalne modne tendencije ....................................................... 189
3.5.3. Moda/antimoda vs fast/slow fashion ................................................... 205
IV STUDIJA SLUČAJA ..................................................................................... 214
4.1. Džins i subverzija značenja u odevnoj modi .................................................... 214
** Zaključak .......................................................................................................... 237
Apendix I - Reč Moda, Valerie Steele….………………………………………………………258
Apendix II – Upitnik (1929), John Carl Flugel…………………………………………..260

Six Forms of Sustainable Fashion

Six Forms of Sustainable Fashion, 2018

Citation: Iva Jestratijevic, Nancy A Rudd. Six Forms of Sustainable Fashion. Trends in Textile & ... more

uvod u studije mode

Art and Media Magazine

Egzoticni kodovi u socijalistickoj oficijelnoj modi

published in: dr Misko Suvakovic : Istorija Umetnosti u Srbiji, tom II Modernizmi i realizmi

rhetorics of fashion

unit one - key elements (teaching file)

clean up or die !

industry must sell, but consumers don't have to buy

umetnost i mediji u funkciji evropskih integracija-book part

EUROPEANIZATION OF PRINTED MEDIA IN SERBIA S u m m a r y The world’s magazine industry has been... more EUROPEANIZATION OF PRINTED MEDIA IN SERBIA

S u m m a r y

The world’s magazine industry has been expanding continuously. In addition to the launch of
new titles, an increasing number of popular magazines are crossing national borders and becoming
a globally present and recognized cultural brands. A relatively young market of women’s popular
press in our country, which has been growing slowly but steadily over the past couple of years,
has been chosen as the most representative example of this trend. The Europeanization of the
entire field of printed media in Serbia has generated an increase in the overall production of printed
media directed at women (domestic vs international editions) as well as further segmentation
of the aforesaid. Furthermore, the trend of standardization of the content of popular press targeted
at women is quite noticeable. In this way, popular texts (and their meanings) in the local context
can be viewed as an extension of the global production of media content, as well as an instrument
for spreading present femininity paradigms in a contemporary environment. Given that permeation
of these globally–popular products, as creations of the center, contribute to the development
of the policy of cultural diversities in a local context; the example of development of licensing of
commercial women’s magazines has been chosen to show the aforementioned trend and to point
out to the need that in this abundance of archetypal products preservation and development of local
press production is of prime importance.
Key words: glocalisation, consumer magazines, lifestyle magazines, media public, media content,
popular text, rhetoric of photography, representation, reading of media messages, meanings,
connotation/denotation, inter–textuality
Ključne reči: glokalizacija, potrošački magazini, lifestyle magazini, medijska publika, medijski
sadržaj, popularan tekst, retorika fotografije, reprezentacija, čitanje medijske poruke, značenja,
konotacija/denotacija, intertekstualnost.

Filozofske igracke teatra