... | Ayuda. Los recursos identitarios de los hombres jóvenes, entre la apariencia y el ser. Auto... more ... | Ayuda. Los recursos identitarios de los hombres jóvenes, entre la apariencia y el ser. Autores:Emanuela Mora; Localización: Distinción social y moda / coord. por Ana Marta González González, Alejandro Néstor García Martínez, 2007, ISBN 84-313-2445-7 , pags. 279-309. ...
Abstract The paper considers small cultural entrepreneurs as a type of new cultural intermediarie... more Abstract The paper considers small cultural entrepreneurs as a type of new cultural intermediaries. It stresses a specific aspect of the Bourdieu's notion of cultural entrepreneurs: the idea that they are at the same time producers and consumers of ...
... Moda tra individualismo e responsabilità. Titolo Rivista: SOCIOLOGIA DEL LAVORO. Autori/Curat... more ... Moda tra individualismo e responsabilità. Titolo Rivista: SOCIOLOGIA DEL LAVORO. Autori/Curatori: Emanuela Mora. Anno di pubblicazione: 2008 Fascicolo: 108. Presentazione: The paper analyzes the relationship between Ethic and Esthetic within the fashion system. ...
The Symposium is the outcome of a research network established to explore new ways to adopt, crit... more The Symposium is the outcome of a research network established to explore new ways to adopt, criticize and expand the approaches that fall under the definition of practice theory, in relation to different topics, and to answer multiple research questions. The shared foundation underlying the contributions is developed around the metaphor of "contamination": while up to the present the efforts of scholars of major practice theory have been to sharpened to specify a common theoretical framework, we argue that practice theory is at the verge of entering a new stage of diffusion and contamination. Contamination is intended here in a double sense: on the one hand, practice theory is contaminating several fields and domains of social research; on the other hand, its conceptual framework is also being contaminated by other intellectual and theoretical traditions, as it is being innovatively adopted and adapted based on the different topics and questions it addresses. Each of the nine articles comprising the Symposium addresses this contamination in a specific way
Researchers have engaged with fashion blogs to discuss issues such as race (Pham 2011, 2013), rel... more Researchers have engaged with fashion blogs to discuss issues such as race (Pham 2011, 2013), religion (Lewis 2013), teenage-hood (Chittendon 2010), femininity (Rocamora 2011), body size (Connell 2013), as well as global neoliberal capitalism (Luvaas 2013), whilst also engaging with wider discussions on contemporary digital practices such as hypertextuality and remediation (Rocamora 2012), new media and time (Rocamora 2013), the Internet and democratization (Pham 2011), digital entrepreneurship (Lewis 2013), the new information economy (Pham 2013), and self-digitalization (Kretz 2010). What all those studies draw attention to is the centrality of both fashion and social media to practices of the self and the formation of collective identities. Thus if, drawing on Roger Silverstone (1999), we ask \u201cwhy study fashion media?\u201d and in particular \u201cwhy study fashion blogs?,\u201d the answer will be \u201cbecause they can help us better comprehend the social and the individual.\u201d In that respect the present issue of Fashion Theory on fashion blogging must be seen not only as a contribution to the existing literature on fashion blogging, on the fashion media and on fashion more generally, but also as a contribution to social and cultural understandings of society, as befits the project of fashion studies (see Mora et al. 2014)
Defining the fashion industry in the same way as other cultural industries, as a system for contr... more Defining the fashion industry in the same way as other cultural industries, as a system for controlling innovation through gatekeeping processes, this study examined the processes that generated and selected innovations in six Italian fashion companies and among a sample of fashion ...
I giovani si incontrano nella citt\ue0 per cantare, ballare, giocare a pallone, suonare nei local... more I giovani si incontrano nella citt\ue0 per cantare, ballare, giocare a pallone, suonare nei locali, fare graffiti sui muri. Frequentano le parrocchie e i centri sociali. Abitano la scuola e lo stadio. Cercando un equilibrio tra desiderio e realt\ue0 riescono talvolta a riscattare l'anonimato dei luoghi urbani. Giovani dentro e giovani fuori, protagonisti della ricerca presentata in questo volume, che si propone di capire quale immagine di s\ue9 esprimano, consapevoli e inconsapevoli, attraverso il modo di vestir
Da una trentina d\u2019anni a questa parte, le pi\uf9 attente diagnosi della modernit\ue0 sono ac... more Da una trentina d\u2019anni a questa parte, le pi\uf9 attente diagnosi della modernit\ue0 sono accomunate dalla constatazione del generalizzato aumento di percezione di rischio da parte dei cittadini. La caratteristica fondamentale della societ\ue0 del rischio \ue8 il fatto che i pericoli da cui le persone si sentono minacciate sono il prodotto del modo di funzionare delle societ\ue0 moderne e dunque per i loro abitanti \ue8 via via divenuto chiaro che proteggersi da essi \ue8 molto difficile, richiede intraprendenza e capacit\ue0 di organizzarsi. La crisi del 2008 \ue8 stata un esempio paradigmatico che ha confermato lo stretto legame tra i vantaggi portati dalla modernizzazione e le difficolt\ue0 a controllare i suoi effetti. Nel corso dei dieci anni che ci separano da quella crisi sono emerse e si sono consolidate nuove pratiche che hanno mostrato la capacit\ue0 delle persone di reagire e di cercare nuove strade creative per fare fronte alla generalizzata situazione di vulnerabilit\ue0. In questo capitolo presentiamo quattro casi che ci appaiono come tentativi creativi per fronteggiare e rispondere ad alcuni dei rischi che le persone percepiscono oggi come pi\uf9 minacciosi per il proprio benessere complessivo e che riguardano un\u2019area centrale della vita quotidiana, quella dell\u2019alimentazione. L\u2019analisi si concentrer\ue0 sulle reti del Wwoof e di GenuinoClandestino, la piattaforma digitale Gnammo e un Gas (Gruppo di acquisto solidale) milanese con una identit\ue0 particolare. Presenteremo brevemente l\u2019orizzonte analitico nel quale si possono leggere le molteplici pratiche di risposta alla strutturale condizione di crisi e rischio delle societ\ue0 contemporanee, i casi di cui ci occupiamo e il modo in cui essi rappresentano esempi interessanti di riattivazione della socialit\ue0 attraverso forme di creativit\ue0 e di resilienza
DOAJ (DOAJ: Directory of Open Access Journals), Dec 1, 2019
This introduction presents the genesis of The Contamination of Practices: How Practice Theories M... more This introduction presents the genesis of The Contamination of Practices: How Practice Theories Matter in Multiple Domains Symposium. The Symposium is the outcome of a research network established to explore new ways to adopt, criticize and expand the approaches that fall under the definition of practice theory, in relation to different topics, and to answer multiple research questions. The shared foundation underlying the contributions is developed around the metaphor of "contamination": while up to the present the efforts of scholars of major practice theory have been to sharpened to specify a common theoretical framework, we argue that practice theory is at the verge of entering a new stage of diffusion and contamination. Contamination is intended here in a double sense: on the one hand, practice theory is contaminating several fields and domains of social research; on the other hand, its conceptual framework is also being contaminated by other intellectual and theoretical traditions, as it is being innovatively adopted and adapted based on the different topics and questions it addresses. Each of the nine articles comprising the Symposium addresses this contamination in a specific way.
Il mestiere d'arte nella storia del sistema della moda italiano (anni 50-2000) \ue8 un tema p... more Il mestiere d'arte nella storia del sistema della moda italiano (anni 50-2000) \ue8 un tema poco frequantto ma essenziale non solo per comprendere il loro contributo alla definizone e valorizzazione della moda italiana, ma la natura stessa dei mestieri artigiani e l'autopercezione dei maestri d'arte e degli addetti ai lavori
When we look through the pages of fashion magazines we can admire sophisticated ads that are thou... more When we look through the pages of fashion magazines we can admire sophisticated ads that are thought to trasmit to us the unique and exclusive mood of the represented brand. If we look again through those pages we can recognize clusters of brands that communicate to us through quite similar visual codes. Similar visual codes sometimes are used by brands that are positioned at really different levels of the fashion pyramid, at the top (luxury brands) as well as at the bottom level (mass market). We are facing something that could be called semiotic saturation, according to the process Simmel identified at the beginning of the XXth century as typical in the diffusion of fashion among social classes. What makes different the present occurence of the phenomenon is that it doesn't imply in principle the abandoning of the saturated images by the luxury brands. On the contrary it contributes to the stabilization of the mainstream fashion visual mood of a certain period. The result seems however to be the lost of uniqueness and exclusiveness of communicated images of brands. A first exploratory research program, carried out with a convenient (40 people) sample of respondents balanced as far as regarding gender and age, showed that people feel disoriented when asked to recognize the brands associated with blind submitted images. 40% of the intervieweed couldn't accomplish the job. A second survey administered to a convenient sample of 161 respondents through a questionnaire with new brands showed that people (between 20% and 35%) had the same type of difficulties The paper presents and discusses the main findings of the research program and upholds the hypothesis that semiotic saturation represents the final stage of a culture of fashion that is mostly based on a pure commercial imagery
Questa indagine delinea una storia della moda italiana vista da una prospettiva insolita, defilat... more Questa indagine delinea una storia della moda italiana vista da una prospettiva insolita, defilata rispetto ai riflettori del fashion system. Una storia scritta dal punto di vista dei maestri d'arte - dai tessitori ai sarti, dai modellisti ai ricamatori - che con il loro silenzioso contributo di manualit\ue0 artigiana assicurano il primato di qualit\ue0 dello stile Made in Italy
Sociologica Italian journal of sociology on line ISSN : 1971-8853. Numero: 2-3, maggio-dicembre 2... more Sociologica Italian journal of sociology on line ISSN : 1971-8853. Numero: 2-3, maggio-dicembre 2009, Indice. DOI: 10.2383/31391. Ellis Wasson, Aristocracy and the modern world. Basingstoke and New York: Palgrave Macmillan, 2006, 296 pp. Emanuela Mora, pp. 0-0 , ...
... | Ayuda. Los recursos identitarios de los hombres jóvenes, entre la apariencia y el ser. Auto... more ... | Ayuda. Los recursos identitarios de los hombres jóvenes, entre la apariencia y el ser. Autores:Emanuela Mora; Localización: Distinción social y moda / coord. por Ana Marta González González, Alejandro Néstor García Martínez, 2007, ISBN 84-313-2445-7 , pags. 279-309. ...
Abstract The paper considers small cultural entrepreneurs as a type of new cultural intermediarie... more Abstract The paper considers small cultural entrepreneurs as a type of new cultural intermediaries. It stresses a specific aspect of the Bourdieu's notion of cultural entrepreneurs: the idea that they are at the same time producers and consumers of ...
... Moda tra individualismo e responsabilità. Titolo Rivista: SOCIOLOGIA DEL LAVORO. Autori/Curat... more ... Moda tra individualismo e responsabilità. Titolo Rivista: SOCIOLOGIA DEL LAVORO. Autori/Curatori: Emanuela Mora. Anno di pubblicazione: 2008 Fascicolo: 108. Presentazione: The paper analyzes the relationship between Ethic and Esthetic within the fashion system. ...
The Symposium is the outcome of a research network established to explore new ways to adopt, crit... more The Symposium is the outcome of a research network established to explore new ways to adopt, criticize and expand the approaches that fall under the definition of practice theory, in relation to different topics, and to answer multiple research questions. The shared foundation underlying the contributions is developed around the metaphor of "contamination": while up to the present the efforts of scholars of major practice theory have been to sharpened to specify a common theoretical framework, we argue that practice theory is at the verge of entering a new stage of diffusion and contamination. Contamination is intended here in a double sense: on the one hand, practice theory is contaminating several fields and domains of social research; on the other hand, its conceptual framework is also being contaminated by other intellectual and theoretical traditions, as it is being innovatively adopted and adapted based on the different topics and questions it addresses. Each of the nine articles comprising the Symposium addresses this contamination in a specific way
Researchers have engaged with fashion blogs to discuss issues such as race (Pham 2011, 2013), rel... more Researchers have engaged with fashion blogs to discuss issues such as race (Pham 2011, 2013), religion (Lewis 2013), teenage-hood (Chittendon 2010), femininity (Rocamora 2011), body size (Connell 2013), as well as global neoliberal capitalism (Luvaas 2013), whilst also engaging with wider discussions on contemporary digital practices such as hypertextuality and remediation (Rocamora 2012), new media and time (Rocamora 2013), the Internet and democratization (Pham 2011), digital entrepreneurship (Lewis 2013), the new information economy (Pham 2013), and self-digitalization (Kretz 2010). What all those studies draw attention to is the centrality of both fashion and social media to practices of the self and the formation of collective identities. Thus if, drawing on Roger Silverstone (1999), we ask \u201cwhy study fashion media?\u201d and in particular \u201cwhy study fashion blogs?,\u201d the answer will be \u201cbecause they can help us better comprehend the social and the individual.\u201d In that respect the present issue of Fashion Theory on fashion blogging must be seen not only as a contribution to the existing literature on fashion blogging, on the fashion media and on fashion more generally, but also as a contribution to social and cultural understandings of society, as befits the project of fashion studies (see Mora et al. 2014)
Defining the fashion industry in the same way as other cultural industries, as a system for contr... more Defining the fashion industry in the same way as other cultural industries, as a system for controlling innovation through gatekeeping processes, this study examined the processes that generated and selected innovations in six Italian fashion companies and among a sample of fashion ...
I giovani si incontrano nella citt\ue0 per cantare, ballare, giocare a pallone, suonare nei local... more I giovani si incontrano nella citt\ue0 per cantare, ballare, giocare a pallone, suonare nei locali, fare graffiti sui muri. Frequentano le parrocchie e i centri sociali. Abitano la scuola e lo stadio. Cercando un equilibrio tra desiderio e realt\ue0 riescono talvolta a riscattare l'anonimato dei luoghi urbani. Giovani dentro e giovani fuori, protagonisti della ricerca presentata in questo volume, che si propone di capire quale immagine di s\ue9 esprimano, consapevoli e inconsapevoli, attraverso il modo di vestir
Da una trentina d\u2019anni a questa parte, le pi\uf9 attente diagnosi della modernit\ue0 sono ac... more Da una trentina d\u2019anni a questa parte, le pi\uf9 attente diagnosi della modernit\ue0 sono accomunate dalla constatazione del generalizzato aumento di percezione di rischio da parte dei cittadini. La caratteristica fondamentale della societ\ue0 del rischio \ue8 il fatto che i pericoli da cui le persone si sentono minacciate sono il prodotto del modo di funzionare delle societ\ue0 moderne e dunque per i loro abitanti \ue8 via via divenuto chiaro che proteggersi da essi \ue8 molto difficile, richiede intraprendenza e capacit\ue0 di organizzarsi. La crisi del 2008 \ue8 stata un esempio paradigmatico che ha confermato lo stretto legame tra i vantaggi portati dalla modernizzazione e le difficolt\ue0 a controllare i suoi effetti. Nel corso dei dieci anni che ci separano da quella crisi sono emerse e si sono consolidate nuove pratiche che hanno mostrato la capacit\ue0 delle persone di reagire e di cercare nuove strade creative per fare fronte alla generalizzata situazione di vulnerabilit\ue0. In questo capitolo presentiamo quattro casi che ci appaiono come tentativi creativi per fronteggiare e rispondere ad alcuni dei rischi che le persone percepiscono oggi come pi\uf9 minacciosi per il proprio benessere complessivo e che riguardano un\u2019area centrale della vita quotidiana, quella dell\u2019alimentazione. L\u2019analisi si concentrer\ue0 sulle reti del Wwoof e di GenuinoClandestino, la piattaforma digitale Gnammo e un Gas (Gruppo di acquisto solidale) milanese con una identit\ue0 particolare. Presenteremo brevemente l\u2019orizzonte analitico nel quale si possono leggere le molteplici pratiche di risposta alla strutturale condizione di crisi e rischio delle societ\ue0 contemporanee, i casi di cui ci occupiamo e il modo in cui essi rappresentano esempi interessanti di riattivazione della socialit\ue0 attraverso forme di creativit\ue0 e di resilienza
DOAJ (DOAJ: Directory of Open Access Journals), Dec 1, 2019
This introduction presents the genesis of The Contamination of Practices: How Practice Theories M... more This introduction presents the genesis of The Contamination of Practices: How Practice Theories Matter in Multiple Domains Symposium. The Symposium is the outcome of a research network established to explore new ways to adopt, criticize and expand the approaches that fall under the definition of practice theory, in relation to different topics, and to answer multiple research questions. The shared foundation underlying the contributions is developed around the metaphor of "contamination": while up to the present the efforts of scholars of major practice theory have been to sharpened to specify a common theoretical framework, we argue that practice theory is at the verge of entering a new stage of diffusion and contamination. Contamination is intended here in a double sense: on the one hand, practice theory is contaminating several fields and domains of social research; on the other hand, its conceptual framework is also being contaminated by other intellectual and theoretical traditions, as it is being innovatively adopted and adapted based on the different topics and questions it addresses. Each of the nine articles comprising the Symposium addresses this contamination in a specific way.
Il mestiere d'arte nella storia del sistema della moda italiano (anni 50-2000) \ue8 un tema p... more Il mestiere d'arte nella storia del sistema della moda italiano (anni 50-2000) \ue8 un tema poco frequantto ma essenziale non solo per comprendere il loro contributo alla definizone e valorizzazione della moda italiana, ma la natura stessa dei mestieri artigiani e l'autopercezione dei maestri d'arte e degli addetti ai lavori
When we look through the pages of fashion magazines we can admire sophisticated ads that are thou... more When we look through the pages of fashion magazines we can admire sophisticated ads that are thought to trasmit to us the unique and exclusive mood of the represented brand. If we look again through those pages we can recognize clusters of brands that communicate to us through quite similar visual codes. Similar visual codes sometimes are used by brands that are positioned at really different levels of the fashion pyramid, at the top (luxury brands) as well as at the bottom level (mass market). We are facing something that could be called semiotic saturation, according to the process Simmel identified at the beginning of the XXth century as typical in the diffusion of fashion among social classes. What makes different the present occurence of the phenomenon is that it doesn't imply in principle the abandoning of the saturated images by the luxury brands. On the contrary it contributes to the stabilization of the mainstream fashion visual mood of a certain period. The result seems however to be the lost of uniqueness and exclusiveness of communicated images of brands. A first exploratory research program, carried out with a convenient (40 people) sample of respondents balanced as far as regarding gender and age, showed that people feel disoriented when asked to recognize the brands associated with blind submitted images. 40% of the intervieweed couldn't accomplish the job. A second survey administered to a convenient sample of 161 respondents through a questionnaire with new brands showed that people (between 20% and 35%) had the same type of difficulties The paper presents and discusses the main findings of the research program and upholds the hypothesis that semiotic saturation represents the final stage of a culture of fashion that is mostly based on a pure commercial imagery
Questa indagine delinea una storia della moda italiana vista da una prospettiva insolita, defilat... more Questa indagine delinea una storia della moda italiana vista da una prospettiva insolita, defilata rispetto ai riflettori del fashion system. Una storia scritta dal punto di vista dei maestri d'arte - dai tessitori ai sarti, dai modellisti ai ricamatori - che con il loro silenzioso contributo di manualit\ue0 artigiana assicurano il primato di qualit\ue0 dello stile Made in Italy
Sociologica Italian journal of sociology on line ISSN : 1971-8853. Numero: 2-3, maggio-dicembre 2... more Sociologica Italian journal of sociology on line ISSN : 1971-8853. Numero: 2-3, maggio-dicembre 2009, Indice. DOI: 10.2383/31391. Ellis Wasson, Aristocracy and the modern world. Basingstoke and New York: Palgrave Macmillan, 2006, 296 pp. Emanuela Mora, pp. 0-0 , ...
Fashion Tales: Feeding the Imaginary (edited by E. Mora and M. Pedroni; Peter Lang, 2017) , 2017
Extract
When Franca Sozzani passed away in December 2016, published in the press and on the Web ... more Extract
When Franca Sozzani passed away in December 2016, published in the press and on the Web were numerous emotional remembrances of the woman who, as editor-in-chief of Vogue Italia since 1988, was unanimously recognized as one of the most influential persons in the field of fashion. ‘She overturned the history of costume by inventing a new way to recount fashion visually’; she was able to ‘anticipate trends and fashions like no-one else because it was she who created them’; she was the ‘first to understand the importance of narrative in fashion images’ (Tibaldi 2016). She did so with editorials constructed as stories in order to provoke discussion, ‘as when Linda Evangelista plays a plastic surgery maniac, or when models end up in rehab and in an eerie religious community, or when they are roughed up by security guards at an airport gate, victims of the control mania of our times’ (ibid.). In terms of this book and the scientific project that inspired it, Sozzani is a perfect example of a creator of the imaginary, and her work for an influential fashion magazine contributed for nearly three decades to fostering, changing, and challenging it. But she was certainly not alone in doing so, and the study of the complex processes involved in construction of the imaginary requires extension of the treatment from the key actors of contemporary fashion to the processes that they...
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Papers by emanuela mora
When Franca Sozzani passed away in December 2016, published in the press and on the Web were numerous emotional remembrances of the woman who, as editor-in-chief of Vogue Italia since 1988, was unanimously recognized as one of the most influential persons in the field of fashion. ‘She overturned the history of costume by inventing a new way to recount fashion visually’; she was able to ‘anticipate trends and fashions like no-one else because it was she who created them’; she was the ‘first to understand the importance of narrative in fashion images’ (Tibaldi 2016). She did so with editorials constructed as stories in order to provoke discussion, ‘as when Linda Evangelista plays a plastic surgery maniac, or when models end up in rehab and in an eerie religious community, or when they are roughed up by security guards at an airport gate, victims of the control mania of our times’ (ibid.). In terms of this book and the scientific project that inspired it, Sozzani is a perfect example of a creator of the imaginary, and her work for an influential fashion magazine contributed for nearly three decades to fostering, changing, and challenging it. But she was certainly not alone in doing so, and the study of the complex processes involved in construction of the imaginary requires extension of the treatment from the key actors of contemporary fashion to the processes that they...