Archive for August, 2010


Hohenstein Institute Interview: Sun Protection Textiles

Filed under: NEWZ - Technical Textile Updates — 2 Comments
August 26, 2010

This summer, sun protection is literally a hot topic. Shading textiles such as sunshades, blinds and beach shelters promise to provide cooling shade and protection from harmful UV radiation and there is also more and more specific UV protection clothing to be found in the shops.

But how in fact do textiles protect you from the sun’s radiation, and what differences between them should be taken into account? Dr. Andreas Schmidt (AS) of the international Textile Research Centre at the Hohenstein Institute (HI) in Bönnigheim believes he has the facts and answers a number of important questions in this interview with the Hohenstein Institute’s press office:

(HI): Why do special UV protection textiles provide even better protection from the sun than cosmetic sun blockers with a high sun protection factor (SPF)?

(AS): The sun protection is, as it were, built into the processed chemical fibers. Titanium dioxide particles, such as are found in powders and sunscreen, are incorporated into the fibers and act like tiny mirrors there, reflecting the high-energy UV rays and so protecting the skin beneath. In addition, the UV protection in sun protection textiles is increased still further by special ways of constructing the fabrics, for example laying several layers on top of one another, covering the gaps between the fibers that inevitably occur in woven or knitted fabrics.

(HI): Which criteria determine the UV protection factor of textiles?

(AS): As well as the composition of the material, the way it is put together and the weight, the color and surface finish of the materials also have an important effect on the UV protection factor (UPF) of a textile material.

(HI): What role does the color of a textile material play in the UV protection factor?

(AS): Dark colors generally give better UV protection than pale colors, because the dye pigments also absorb UV radiation. This is why the Tuareg people in the Sahara have been dyeing their clothing dark blue for centuries. However, thanks to chemical treatments like UV absorbers, it is also possible nowadays to achieve similar results with lighter colored fabrics.

(HI): Why do natural fibers only offer limited protection from UV radiation?

(AS): The UV protection given by natural fibers such as cotton or linen is relatively low. A white T-shirt has a UV protection factor of 10-15. The reason for this is that cotton fibers in themselves reflect or absorb little UV radiation. This is particularly true once they have become wet – the fibers then become almost see-through. Without this effect, there would be no such thing as wet T-shirt contests, for example (he laughs)! In addition, cotton fibers are kidney-shaped in diameter, i.e. within one fiber the diameter can be very variable. When this is combined with a twisted fiber structure, quite large holes appear in woven or knitted fabrics, through which the UV radiation can penetrate unhindered to the skin below.

(HI): Are there any natural fibers with a good UV protection factor?

(AS): Natural silk has a relatively high UV protection factor, because, like modern synthetic fibers, it contains matting components which reflect and absorb UV rays. The regular fiber structure, with small gaps in woven or knitted fabrics, also prevents the UV radiation from reaching the skin. Depending on the color, the UPF may be 20 to 30. There is a good reason why in India, for example, silk sarongs are worn wrapped in several layers, which significantly increases the UV protection factor.

(HI): How is the UV protection factor of textiles indicated?

(AS): The protection from UV radiation that textiles provide is indicated as a UV protection factor (UPF = Ultraviolet Protection Factor). This equates to the sun protection factor (SPF) for sun creams and indicates the factor by which the skin’s own natural protection time – which depends on your individual skin type – is extended by the textile material. The skin of a person with skin type 1, for example, with red or blond hair, blue eyes and a very pale complexion, has a natural protection time of about five to ten minutes.

If such a person is exposed to strong sunlight for any longer without protection, they risk dangerous sunburn. If they are protected by a textile material with UPF 80, they can extend the length of time they can remain in the sun by eighty times, without causing any skin damage. That is to say, to a maximum of 6.5 to 13 hours (80 X 5 min = 400 min to 80 X 10 min = 800 min). However, care must be taken to ensure that all parts of the body not covered by textiles are given additional protection with sun cream.

Instead of the UPF, the manufacturers of UV protection textiles often quote what percentage of the UV radiation is blocked by their products. How can consumers evaluate this information?

Such statements are hard for lay people to interpret. If, for example, 95% of the UV rays are blocked, that equates to a UPF of 20. So if you really want to be on the safe side when buying shading textiles, you should always ask detailed questions, have the information carefully explained to you and compare that with your personal requirements, which depend partly on your personal skin type and the resulting natural protection time (see chart).

(HI): You recommend that for both shading textiles and clothing the UPF is measured in accordance with UV Standard 801. Why is that?

(AS): The UV Standard 801 was developed in 1998 to overcome the weaknesses in the previous test standard called the Australian/New Zealand Standard (AS/NZ 4399:1996). This did not take account of the stresses and strains imposed during washing and regular use. By contrast, under the UV Standard 801, the UPF of a textile is determined not only when it is new, but also when it has been stretched and wetted, after mechanical strain and washing and after artificial weathering.

(HI): How many companies have their products tested using this test method?

(AS): There are now over 100 companies making a variety of products offering high UV protection who have them tested and/or certificated under UV Standard 801. On the UV Standard 801 website(www.uvstandard801.de ), you can see a selection of companies which endorse their products using UV Standard 801.

(HI): What kind of products are mainly assessed under UV Standard 801?

(AS): We recommend the measuring procedure under UV Standard 801 because it produces highly practical results for shading textiles like sunshades, blinds and beach shelters and all kinds of clothing textiles. The range of products extends from swimwear and leisure and trekking clothes to the fabrics used for working clothes. The main focus is on swimwear and leisure clothing for toddlers and children, for whom protection from UV radiation is particularly important.

Read more @ http://www.innovationintextiles.com

Comment

ecogear Brings Ecofriendly Yoga Clothing

Filed under: NEWZ - Apparel and Fashion Updates — Leave a comment
August 22, 2010

Incredible ecoGear Inc., the Toronto based brand best known for its ecofriendly clothing made from recycled cotton fibers, recently introduced a new line of clothing geared specifically towards the yogini.

Calling it a natural fit, the company hopes to appeal to the yogini’s love for nature and the environment through its yoga collection. Since it entered the eco clothing market 3 years ago, the company has made some great strides in its growth despite fierce competition from what it calls vaguely green products. Due to the high standards that the company sets for every product carried under the ecoGear banner, it is now the featured eco brand for Sears online sales, which carries an equally tough standard for eco labelling.

ecoGear’s main fiber is made from recycled fibers which is composed of 65% cotton clippings from clothing factories and 35% poly yarns from recycled plastic bottles or rePET. Backed up by a comparison study commissioned by the company’s yarn suppliers, ecoGear claims to be the most earthfriendly clothing as the fibers are 100% recycled and for the most part, do not call for bleaching or dyeing, two processes in making fabric that have been well documented as the cause for severe water pollution world wide. The colors for ecoGear’s fabrics are derived from the cotton clippings which the yarn maker has separated into colored lots and are carefully mixed and blended in an effort to achieve 95% consistency in color from one production lot to the next.

“Color consistency is not an issue for us,” said Robert Hii, the general manager of the company. “If you look at the options for producing truly ecofriendly clothing, you can have either everything in greige goods, which is the beigey color that cotton comes naturally in, or, you can have colored clothing. Between the two, we felt that colored recycled fibers make a more ecofriendly and commercially competitive product. Our mission is to displace regular textiles that are so damaging to the environment in its land, water, energy and chemical use.”

In its third year in business, the ecoGear brand has continued to push and refine its fabrics from a coarse jersey in its early days to a third generation fiber today that feels and wears like a conventional cotton/poly mix. Yarn refinement by its European yarn supplier has enabled the company to knit up finer gauge fabrics and the first choice was a french terry which is used in its yoga pants. Citing the need to create a viable competitor to toxic textiles, the company added 5% spandex to its yoga fabric. “Keeping in mind that the yogini needs the elasticity in clothing for yoga, we felt that adding the virgin spandex was important for the products to make sense,” said Robert Hii.

The company also rolled out a collection of basic yoga items using viscose from the jute plant. Calling the collection its anti nylon option, Robert Hii expects a few raised eyebrows as to the company’s decision to get involved with a new fiber. “It started out as a mission to provide ecofriendly underwear and we are introducing jute viscose in a basic camisole, feather weight tee and 3 styles of women’s underwear. The recycled fibers with its limited elasticity and heavy gauge would not appeal to the consumer at large, which is our target. Viscose from the jute plant however, can be knitted up into the softest stretchiest fabrics you can think of and it has a neutral impact on animals unlike silk or trees, which is what most viscosic fabrics are made from. The downsides to jute viscose is the use of sulphur to turn the jute stem into viscose and the fact that some of our pieces are dyed but if you compare the overall environmental impact it has with oil based nylon or polyester yarns that are so popular with yoga clothing, we felt that we had to bring this product to market so that the consumer has a sustainable option that would look and perform like nylon products.”

Based on the company’s own standards for eco labelling, ecoGear makes it clear that its jute viscose products only claim to be a sustainable fiber and not an ecofriendly fiber.

Comment

Waterless Dyeing Process For DryDye Fabrics

Filed under: NEWZ - Apparel and Fashion Updates — Leave a comment
August 19, 2010

The Yeh Group, a leading producer of functional knitted fabrics has announced plans to introduce DryDye fabrics which use an exclusive waterless dyeing process that the company says will save it millions of litres of fresh water annually. The announcement came at the recent OutDoor Show in Friedrichshafen, Germany and the Outdoor Retailer Show in Salt Lake City, Utah.

Water scarcity and increased environmental awareness are world-wide concerns which are causing a sharp rise in prices for intake and disposal of water. The textiles industry is also one of the biggest consumers of water with conventional textile dyeing using large amounts of fresh water which is disposed of as waste water containing dyestuff chemicals. The Yeh Group says that in its experience, an estimated 100-150 litres of water are needed to process 1 kg of textile material. Water is also used as a solvent in many pre-treatment and finishing processes, such as washing, scouring, bleaching, dyeing, rinsing and finishing and the contaminated water must then be handled and treated prior to disposal or recycling.

DryDye Fabrics

The Yeh Group, which produces both warp and weft knitted fabrics, says it will be the first textile manufacturer to implement a new waterless dyeing process developed by DyeCoo Textile Systems of the Netherlands which is currently being readied for commercial introduction in the fourth quarter of this year. The company says it has exclusive rights to the process and is branding fabrics produced using it, as DryDye fabrics.

Supercritical Fluid CO2

“Elimination of the water process and chemicals is a real and significant breakthrough for the textile dyeing industry. This new process utilizes supercritical fluid carbon dioxide (CO2) for dyeing textile-materials. It is a completely waterless dyeing process using only nominal amounts of CO2, nearly all of which is recycled. DryDye fabrics dyed with this unique waterless process will have the same dye qualities and durability as current, conventionally-dyed fabrics,” a spokesperson for the Yeh Group said.

The Yeh Group, which claims to be an innovative, environmentally responsible producer of quality knit fabrics and garments, supplies to premium brands in sports and intimate apparel markets. By pioneering and implementing this new waterless dyeing process, the company says it will eliminate the use of millions of litres of fresh water in dyeing fabrics using the new process.

Instead of current aqueous dyeing systems, DryDye fabrics will be dyed using supercritical carbon dioxide in a stainless steel chamber developed and tested by DyeCoo. Yeh Group says, for the past three decades, supercritical fluids have been used in various extraction processes, including the extraction of natural substances for the production of pharmaceuticals, cosmetics and spices.  In addition, leading producers of textiles dyestuffs have attempted to harness the technology for textiles dyeing but none has produced a successful commercial system to date.

Supercritical fluid CO2 is said to have become a mainstay in extraction processes in the food industry (decaffeination, extraction of hops) and apparel dry cleaning, where it is said to be the best, gentlest, most thorough cleaning method now available. Carbon dioxide is also said to be considered the best supercritical fluid for the dyeing process, is naturally occurring, chemically inert, physiologically compatible, relatively inexpensive and readily available.

Dyeing Polyester and Other Synthetics

“Using supercritical fluid CO2, polyester and other synthetics can be dyed with modified disperse dyes.  The supercritical fluid CO2 causes the polymer fibre to swell allowing the disperse dye to easily diffuse within the polymer, penetrating the pore and capillary structure of the fibres.  The viscosity of the dye solution is lower, making the circulation of the dye solutions easier and less energy intensive.  This deep penetration provides effective colouration of polymers which are characteristically hydrophobic.  Dyeing and removing excess dye are processes that are done in the same vessel.  Residue dye is minimal and may be extracted and recycled,” the Yeh Group says.

Reduction in Operating Costs

According to the Yeh Group, supercritical CO2 dyeing gives excellent results as far as dye levelness and shade development are concerned. The physical properties of dyed yarns are also said to be equivalent to conventional methods.   Conventional textile dyeing is very water and energy intensive in pre-treatment, dyeing, and post-treatment (drying).  The supercritical CO2 process however, is said to use less energy than conventional processes, resulting in a potential reduction in operating costs of up to 50%. The company says the only overlap is in the pre-treatment process, which is essentially the same for both.

Availability

DryDye fabrics will be available to consumers in early-2011 through selected brand customers of the Yeh Group and the initial brands adopting and marketing DryDye fabrics will be announced in the coming weeks. The Yeh Group was established in 1988 and is located on a 40 acre site near to the city of Bangkok in Thailand where it specializes in performance polyester knit fabrics. The group is composed of Tong Siang and Penn Asia and has sales offices located in Europe and North America. Current customers include Adidas, The North Face, Puma, Mammut, Odlo, Mizuno and Victoria Secret. DyeCoo Textile Systems B.V. is based in the Netherlands and claims to be the world’s first supplier of industrial CO2 dyeing equipment, for which it holds patents. The company also offers its own range of dyes for CO2 dyeing.

Comment

Lectra DesignConcept Techtex

Filed under: NEWZ - Technical Textile Updates — Leave a comment

DesignConcept Techtex is Lectra’s solution for developing templates from 3D shapes for the technical textiles market. DesignConcept aims to let you produce 2D templates from your 3D designs for prototyping, to reduce your costs and development times whilst keeping control of product quality. DesignConcept TechTex received an Innovation award at IMB 2009.

Comment

Global Cotton Consumption To Expand In 2010/11

Filed under: NEWZ - Apparel and Fashion Updates — Leave a comment
August 15, 2010

The latest U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) estimates for 2010/11 projects global cotton consumption at approximately 120.9 million bales. Despite the 2.7-percent increase from 2009/10, this season’s consumption remains well below the 123-plusmillion bales used just 3 years ago. The second consecutive season of growth is expected as the global economy recovers from the recent severe economic conditions.

The top four cotton-spinning countries China, India, Pakistan, and Turkey are forecast to account for nearly 73 percent of global consumption in 2010/11, similar to 2009/10 but up from an average of about 71 percent for the 2006-2008 seasons.

Cotton consumption report by USDA

However, shares for China and India the top two spinners have more than offset slight declines in Pakistan and Turkey. In 2010/11, China and India are expected to account for 70.4 million bales of world consumption, or 58 percent of the total. Meanwhile, use in Pakistan and Turkey are projected at a combined 17.5 million bales, or about 15 percent of total consumption.

Comment

Calvin Klein Fall Winter ’11 Mens

Filed under: FASHION BIOS - Know the Fashion Giants — Leave a comment
August 13, 2010

Calvin Klein – Fall Winter 2010/2011 – Menswear

With an unapproachable attitude, the Fall/Winter 2010/2011 Menswear brings out a minimalist collection that puts in value classy pieces with sophisticated details. Using a modern theme the overall simplicity accentuates every single piece on the runway and gives a new perspective of today’s men’s fashion.

Calvin Klein kept a neutral chromatic theme to come along with their style. Basic items, reinvented through Calvin’s eyes are spotted here and what looks like a simple suit is a classy and flawless look that will be hit-outfit with any occasion and will least you a lifetime.

Going from shades of grey to white, brown and black, this collection gives us a sophisticated allure even though simplicity. The luxurious and modern looks appeal to every personality or kinds of men and mixing together casual sportswear with classy formal suits, Calvin Klein creates a new perspective over men’s fashion.

The main items that catch out attention for their details and shape are: pea coats with sporty pants and massive shoes, shiny leather blazers, long trench coats, leather jackets with small details, abstract printed suits, waist belted trench coats with details, striped hoodie, shiny elegant suits, sport jackets, bomber leather jacket and shapeless minimalist coats.

Comment

Bicomponent Fibers – Specialty Markets

Filed under: DATA CENTER - Articles — 1 Comment

Bicomponent melt-spun fibers were first commercialized in the middle of the 20th century, in the form of fibers with sheath/core and side-by-side cross sections. Very quickly, a primary application for the sheath/core bicomponent cross section evolved: By employing a lower-melting-temperature (Tm) polymer in the sheath and a higher-Tm polymer in the core, these fibers could be used in nonwoven webs to thermally bond the webs together without losing the fiber shape of the binder fiber. This allowed more bond points, which improved fabric strength and allowed for increased line speeds.

Since that time, sheath/core binder fibers have become widely accepted and have set the stage for the introduction of bicomponent staple fibers, tows and filament yarns with a wide range of enhanced performance features offered by more advanced bicomponent technologies. An important step forward in the commercialization of some of the more advanced possibilities was the invention by Melbourne, Fla.-based Hills Inc. of a process for producing spin pack parts using photochemical etching. This advance increased the fineness and precision of control over polymer flow paths and did so while simultaneously reducing the cost of the parts. Subsequently, Fiber Innovation Technology, Inc. (FIT) was established in 1996 in Johnson City, Tenn., as a specialty fiber producer not controlled by any polymer producer having a single-polymer, commodity focus. With access to all available thermoplastic materials, and using the Hills technology, FIT has been able to pioneer a large number of different bicomponent fiber types in a wide variety of applications in a relatively short time. As a result, fiber consumers now have access to commercial supply of an almost endless variety of bicomponent fibers, with an exponentially larger range of performance features than when the simplest bicomponent fibers were first introduced.

Fibers with sheath/core and side-by-side cross sections were the first bicomponent melt-spun fibers to be commercialized

Highly Tailored Fiber Properties
Today, the choice of polymers used in a bicomponent fiber is not restricted to a handful of commodity polymers such as polyethylene terephthalate (PET), nylon, and polypropylene (PP). Instead, the entire range of polyesters – including polycyclohexanedimethanol terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, PET glycol and a huge range of copolyesters – is being augmented by aliphatic polyesters such as polylactic acid and polyhydroxyalkanoates, which introduce the new environmental benefit of being derived from renewable resources. Similar range extension is now available with polyamides and polyolefins including nylon 6, 6,6, 11 and 12; copolyamides; high-density polyethylene (PE); linear low-density PE; syndiotactic PP; and polymethylpentene. But perhaps the most intriguing new possibility is the incorporation of engineering polymers, whose properties are typically exceptional but whose cost has traditionally prevented any investigation of use in commodity fiber applications. The list of these polymers is long, and includes polyphenylene sulfide, acetal, ionomers, polyvinyl alcohol, polyetherimide, and thermoplastic polyurethanes, to name just a few.

Bicomponent fibers can be manufactured in a wide range of polymer configurations, such as those shown above, thanks to technology developed by Hills Inc. and some pack-part innovations developed by FIT

Added to the newly-expanded polymer choices is a much greater variety of bicomponent cross sections made possible by Hills technology and some pack-part innovations by FIT. Now it is possible to put the polymers pretty much wherever desired in the fiber’s cross section.

And it’s no longer necessary to limit the choice to round fibers.  Shaped-cross-section fibers can also be coextruded using two polymer.

Bicomponent fibers also can be extruded in a variety of shaped cross sections, including those shown above

Finally, the entire range of polymer additives that can be used in single-polymer fibers can also be used in one or both of the polymers in a bicomponent fiber to achieve targeted performance characteristics. These additives include such things as colorants, flame retardants, antimicrobials, conductive materials and carbon nanotubes, among other additives.

With this very large matrix of material properties and ways of combining them into each fiber, it will be apparent that bicomponent fibers are no longer a one-trick pony. Whereas in the past, fabric design meant trying to optimize the fixed attributes of a commodity fiber into each different application, bicomponent fibers now offer a way to engineer finely-tuned performance into the fiber. Each application can now seek a fiber that is precisely tailored to fit the specific needs of that application.

Exemplary Uses Of Bicomponent Fibers
There are far too many different end-uses for bicomponent fibers to cover in a brief article, but a few illustrative examples are discussed below.

Even the basic sheath/core binder fiber has been updated since the early days. Today, there is access to a range of copolymers of polyesters, polyamides, and polyolefins that allow precise targeting of the desired thermal bonding behavior. The bonding temperature can be set from a low of about 110°C to a high of about 180°C. It is even possible to select bonding polymers outside this range, but these options can impose significant caveats. Beyond the bonding temperature, the adhesive character of the bonding polymer can be adjusted to adhere better to polar surfaces or nonpolar ones. And the crystalline nature of the polymer can be adjusted to give a broader or narrower melt-temperature range. Binder fibers for high-loft nonwovens used as seat cushions in place of polyurethane foam use a sheath polymer with elastic recovery, so that repeated stressing of the bond points does not fracture the bond.

The fundamental sheath/core cross section is also useful in many applications demanding engineering polymers. Typically, such an application depends entirely on the surface properties of the more exotic, and more expensive, polymer. In these cases, the fiber’s core can be made with a suitable lower-cost polymer to deliver all of the benefit of the more expensive polymer at a materials cost well below that of a fiber made from the surface polymer alone.

Side-by-side bicomponent fibers typically rely on the difference in shrinkage between the two polymers. At any point in the fabric formation process, if the fibers are not physically constrained, shrinkage can be induced by the application of heat. Since the two polymers shrink at different rates, the fiber resolves the resulting tension by curling into a helix. This behavior allows a fabric to be made flat and then bulked when and where it suits the application.

The pie wedge cross sections typically are used to make microfibers. Direct spinning of microfibers is difficult – and practically impossible below about 0.3 to 0.5 denier per filament (dpf) – and expensive, as throughputs are low. But a 2- to 3-dpf pie-wedge fiber does not suffer throughput limitations, and is robust through fiber and fabric production processes. Once a nonwoven web is formed from these fibers, it can be subjected to mechanical agitation – typically, a hydroentangling process – which will split the segments into microfibers – typically, about 16 segments per bicomponent fiber. The result is a microfiber fabric at significantly reduced cost compared to one made using direct-spun microfibers.  The hollow and partial-wrap versions of this cross section are refinements that allow adjustment of the fiber’s relative splittability.

The sea/islands cross section also generates microfibers. In this case, the sea polymer can be easily removed by dissolution in a suitable solvent – typically, a light, hot caustic bath or warm water. A fabric made of sea/islands fibers is passed through the solvent, and the result is a microfiber fabric. This approach incurs a cost penalty because some of the fiber is washed down the drain. But the smallest microfibers from sea/islands technology are much smaller than those achievable using mechanical splitting technology.

The taggant cross section is one that FIT initially developed just to show off its capabilities. But since then, the company has discovered that the inclusion of a logo or some other complex shape in the fiber’s cross section can be of value in taggant fibers for applications in which liability protection is desired. The logo can even be a two-dimensional barcode that can be read by a machine vision system, thereby stealthily incorporating large amounts of information into a product. The tagged product need not be a fibrous product, but can include electronics, pharmaceuticals, gemstones, explosives, or virtually anything used in an application in which forensic identification could be of value.

Future Directions
Of course, this is not the end of the story. Innovation will continue and build upon the advances that have brought the technology to this stage. Already, tricomponent spinning systems are being developed to coextrude three different polymers into each fiber rather than just two. And some of the simpler bicomponent cross sections are appearing in spunbond fabrics, in which filaments are extruded directly into a nonwoven web without forming fibers as an intermediate product. The precision of polymer control to form the cross section also continues to advance. When FIT was first formed, the state of the art was 37 islands in a sea/islands fiber, which could produce microfibers as fine as 0.02 dpf. In recent years, Hills has produced spin packs capable of stuffing hundreds of islands into each fiber cross section, which enables the production of submicron microfibers. There is even one sea/islands cross section with close to 10,000 islands. And before electrospinning technology even makes it out of the cradle, researchers are beginning to experiment with bicomponent electrospun filaments, using polymer solutions rather than polymer melts.

It will be necessary to wait for some of these advances to become widely available, but with the state of bicomponent technology available today for commercial production, there may no longer be any need to wait for a staple fiber or filament yarn that offers the exact performance a particular application requires.

Comment

Flat Woven Rugs are Different From Carpets

Filed under: TEXTILES - Traditional Tex-styles of The World — Leave a comment

The weavers made flat woven rugs – called Kilms – before they discovered the art of knotting. Unlike knotted pieces or carpets, the kilms– what is called the slit-tapestry technique – are quicker and easier to produce and light in weight for easy transportation.

Early 20th Century Senneh rug-wool on silk-having multicolored silk warps arranged in chromatic bands.

They are weaved double-faced by weaving different coloured weft threads in and out of warp. This results in creation of small holes in the rugs where blocks of different colours meet. These holes were almost invisible in well-produced pieces. Their lack of piles made them less warm as compared to knotted rugs, hence, the kilms were often used as wall hangings and bed covers, cushion backs and handbags and not as floor coverings.  During 16th and 17th centuries, in Safavid Persia, some of the wonderful silk kilms were woven in the workshops in Kashan and Esfahan, which produced pile rugs and sophisticated Senneh wool kilms.

Early 20th Century rug-wool on cotton-renowned for its delicate drawing and brilliant contrast of colors.

Another well –known rug type is the sumakh, a form of brocading; these are associated primarily with Caucasian village weavers. Like kilms, sumakh also has no pile but they are woven more tightly and are tougher. A basic network of warps and wefts are used to produce them along with additional coloured weft threads, which are woven into this framework in shorthands to create patterns. The ends are left trailing on the reverse piece. As a result, the sumakhs are not reversible in the way kilms are, since the back is a shaggy mass of wool creating an insulating layer that make then considerably warmer.

Comment

DONNA KARAN

Filed under: FASHION BIOS - Know the Fashion Giants — 4 Comments
August 12, 2010

Donna Faske, who later become fashion mogul Donna Karan, was born in 1948 in Queens, New York. She grew up in Long Island with her step-father who was a practicing tailor and her mother who was a store model. Karan was fashion-obsessed from an early age. In 1968 she joined Parson’s School of Design, which she left, without a degree, to take an assistant position at Anne Klein, one of the top design firms in the country.

Her work was so impressive that, within two years, she was promoted to Associate Designer and at the age of 26 she became the head designer at Anne Klein. At that time, she launched the Essentials line, and her legendary Seven Easy Pieces every woman should have in her closet.

2009 Runway collection- Spring, DKNY

Until 1985 she drove the success of this fashion house to new zenith when she decided to strike out on her own, and ‘Donna Karan New York’ was founded. Her aim was to dress women in comfort, to liberate them from the confines of Eighties power suits.

Mid-eighties Seven Easy Pieces by Donna Karan

The introduction of her DKNY collection in 1988 marks the beginning of a period of amazing growth of the company. She designs for ordinary women like her keeping in mind the entire picture from head-to-toe, from function to aesthetic. With Donna Karan clothing, function comes before styling.

The shoe collection came around in 1989. Donna Karan shoes are designed for modern women. The collection has both trendy forward-thinking designs as well as timeless silhouettes that are essentials to every woman’s wardrobe. Known for both quality and comfort, Donna Karan shoes are crafted from the finest material and considered by many people to be must-haves. Donna Karan shoes include styles like pumps, sandals, flats, and boots, and are loved by women worldwide.

In 1997 Donna Karan quit as CEO of the company, but continues to act as chairwoman and designer in charge of the Donna Karan line. From 2002 on, most of the collection was designed by Peter Speliopoulos, a former Cerruti designer, with Karan contributing little subtleties or even entire new creations. The DKNY line is entirely designed by Jane Chung, who has been with Donna Karan since Karan’s days with Anne Klein.

In August 2008, Donna Karan relaunched her discontinued fragrance lines from the 1990s. These include DK Fuel for Men, Signature, Chaos, and Black Cashmere. They are available exclusively in the United States at Bergdorf Goodman, Manhattan and at Harrod’s, Knightsbridge, London.

Many more consumers and critics were won over in years to come by Ms. Karan’s designs.They have noticed in her a determination and professionalism but also deep stubbornness. Donna is a true New Yorker at heart. Her success in the fashion world is evident: her labels, ‘Donna Karan’ and ‘DKNY’, are major fashion powerhouses, and she is respected as one of the world’s foremost designers.

Spring 2010 runway collection, DKNY

Chronology

1948: Born.

1974: Promoted head designer at Anne Klein and launched legendary Seven Easy Pieces.

1977: Won the Coty American Fashion Critics’ Award and once again in 1982.

1982: Karan created Anne Klein II, originating the concept of bridge and lifestyle dressing in fashion.

1985: Left Anne Klein and founded Donna Karan New York.

1989: Came the shoe collection from DKNY

1992: Emerged DKNY Men Collection of Cashmere suits and sports wear the following year.

2001: Karan introduced a Donna Karan New York Home collection.

2008: Relaunched her discontinued fragrance lines from the 1990s.

Tags: , , , , , , , , , ,
Comment

Jovani’s Collection: Blast Into The Past In True Fashion Style

Filed under: NEWZ - Apparel and Fashion Updates — Leave a comment
August 11, 2010

Jovani's Prom dress promo

This year’s prom girls will have the chance to represent a variety of iconic styles from fashion’s past with the launch of Jovani’s latest Prom Dress Collection. From the delicate Grecian goddess, to the edgy 80’s girl and fairytale princess, the possibilities are endless with Jovani Fashions.

Long-time designer of women’s formalwear, Jovani has decided to spice things up this year with a whole new fun and fashion-forward line of prom dresses inspired by the eminent trends of previous fashion eras. Now girls can embody a style they’ve always admired at their high school prom, as well as use this as an opportunity to recreate history with Jovani.

Girls that are looking for a soft and subtle look will have a wide variety to choose from this year. Go Grecian with Jovani’s white jersey dresses that feature high slits and draped necklines. White one-shoulder dresses with beading along the straps and waist epitomizes the ancient Greek style. Not to mention, a lightweight chiffon gown with flirty rosette detail and draped asymmetrical hemline also depicts the demure mode. It’s absolutely heavenly.

For all those material girls, Jovani’s new Collection offers a variety of prom styles that include 80’s inspired high-low hemlines and peplum skirts. Layered details along the skirts, fitted sequin bodices and metallic sheens, are all representative of a time when fashion was self-expressive and fun. Slinky styles with embellished shoulders and lengthy glamour gowns reflect another facet of this period. Whether it’s a long or short dress, Jovani’s distinctive prom dresses stand out like none other. Be the center of attention at one of the most memorable occasions.

Always fantasized about looking like a storybook princess? Not to worry, Jovani offers a number of elegant styles for girls who want to keep it classic and super elegant. This means poufy ball gowns, exquisite silhouettes, ruched bodices and jewel details. Create a magical look that will surely turn heads. Uniquely, Jovani’s formal dresses are simultaneously fashion-forward and chic while still preserving a sophisticated style. No princess in history has ever looked so fashionable.

Blast into the past in true fashion style this prom season with Jovani’s 2011 Collection. With a variety of stunning styles and trends to choose from, Jovani has a prom dress for every girl.

Comment
Design a site like this with WordPress.com
Get started