A Covered Bridge

I am running an American War of Independence game on Sunday and I wanted something a little different as a focus of the game. For this I have chosen a covered bridge.

So on Tuesday, when I got back from our little road trip, I looked up a few images online and put together a concept. Then on Wednesday evening I started construction, completing it Thursday evening.

Then removed from its AI generated background.

The nice thing about this model is that the whole model was made with leftover pieces and offcuts from other building projects.

A Slight Diversion

I had been eyeing this model for some time, but it goes in and out of stock quite quickly and it is quite pricey. But when it became available with a local retailer with whom I had a discount voucher to use, I snapped it up.

It's a lovely piece that will fit in nicely with very clear assembly instructions - and having assembled some  Chinese manufactured flatpack furniture recently this is real blessing!

It went together very easily with a minimal amount of  fiddling about to get parts to fit. Here is the piece assembled and ready for painting...it measures 230mm x 190mm on the bases and stands 235mm tall. Technically it is a 20mm and not a 28mm model, but the sheer size of the model disguises that.

And then painted...it took much longer to paint than I anticipated.

This will work nicely with any game set in southern Europe, particularly with my Peninsular British and Spanish Napoleonic armies, the Carlist War and with the war in Italy in 1866. 

I was hoping to have it available for last Sunday's Carlist War game, but it was not to be so.

Looking at Terrain Tiles Again

 In January last year I started a proof of concept for terrain tiles. I was more than happy with the results Part One Part Two and I have used them in a few solo games that that have featured on these pages. But as pleasing as the results were there were a few problems with the design. The size of 1200mm x 600mm (4ft x 2ft) that I initially liked because it reduced the number of joins proved to be main problem. First it was quite heavy and awkward to lay accurately on the table. Second storage was going to be a problem. So I needed a rethink.

Storage needed to be the decision driver. For storage I want to use a flat pack cupboard available at most hardware stores that will fit nicely in the garage. I can get a suitable one with a 450mm depth so 400 mm square was an option, but the widest I could get had an internal measurement  of 750mm so only one tile could fit on a level which would leave a lot of wasted storage space. In the other hand if I went to 300mm square I could fit two tiles across the width and make better use of the cabinet. So size was decided - 300 x 300 although 300 x 600 was still a practical option. Next was getting the weight down which was going to mean using some sort of foam. It would have been quite a simple solution to simply use a block of polystyrene, but I have this obsession with damage to the edges - one of my pet hates is to see terrain tiles where the edge has been damaged and exposes the white polystyrene - and I want to give some sort of rigidity to protect the edges. I also want to lock these together and solution for this is to use rare earth magnets. So another proof of the concept is required.

To hold the magnets and to give that rigidity and edge protection I need some sort of frame and for the magnets to line up those frames were going to need some precision construction. Now I can do a bit of carpentry, but lack the skills and workshop for precision manufacturing. What I am good at is graphic design and it only took a few minutes to knock up a design a frame that could be precision laser cut and I could accurately position magnets. I then sent the design off to a laser cutter who turned the job around in a day, providing me with four sets.

The raw cut pieces for four frames.

The frame assembled

With the frame assembled I cut a piece of 20mm polystyrene and fitted it. But why only 20mm when most other terrain tiles commercial and otherwise use 50mm (2”) insulation tiles? The answer is twofold: first is storage again because a 20mm depth of foam, plus a 3mm base and 2mm top coating (giving 25mm) means that I can stack two in the space of one of the thicker tiles; second is that the only time I can see why I would need to cut below the surface is to cut rivers, streams, gullies, etc, and I can’t see why that would ever need to go deeper than 20mm.

With that done I moved onto the surface covering which was always going to be the same felt that I used on my earlier trial. I did consider using a flocking gun, but it can be a messy process. I get away with a lot with what I make at home, but I think fine flock fibres finding their way around the house would be seen as a step too far by her indoors.

For my proof of concept I made one plain board and three with roads - one straight across the board, one diagonally across and a slightly sunken junction. In the shot below the plain board has had its edges trimmed.

For the base of the roads in glued a mixture of fine and medium grain sand. Oddly in the image below the road seems to bulge above the surface, but it is a total illusion because the area around the junction is actually recessed.

The next step was to tone down the green of the felt. In the past I have done this by spraying the cloth with first a bright green and then a yellow coat. But I need to spray in the open air to maintain domestic bliss and successful spraying requires dry and windless weather, two things that an Auckland winter lacks. So this time I dry-brushed the colours, first a bright green then yellow. I actually prefer the dry-brushed finish. Below you can see the difference between the first green coat (top) and then the yellow (bottom) applied over the top.

The roads were then undercoated in black ready for final colouring.

You can also see how two tiles could be joined to create a 300x600mm tile, something I may do to create some variation for say a river or stream section.

And all four pieces of the proof of concept.

Placed edge to edge

Stacked atop each other 

I still need to install the magnets that are still enroute from China, but I am happy with the results and will pursue further.

Swamps - Part 2

Back in December I started work on swamps that I will need for the Great Paraguayan war and for another major game coming up later in the year. The original proof of concept piece (see here) was intended to be the first of three modules that can interlink and here are the other two modules, then showing them a few different configurations.  

A number of smaller steam pieces that can be used to link the pieces will provide even greater options in configuration.

The 22nd Chasseurs á Cheval and Palm Trees

The latest unit to ride onto the parade ground is the 22nd Chasseurs á Cheval, one of two regiments of light cavalry that served with the French in Egypt.

This unit adopted a hussar style uniform of bright green jackets and overalls, with orange facings and white braid. The trumpeter wore the long tailed coat, in reversed colours, and cocked hat.

 

The second light cavalry regiment, the 7th Hussars, is scheduled to pass through the uniform store in early January.

When I came home from work on Thursday there was a parcel on the doorstep from China containing 60 palm trees, with a height varying between 75mm and 150mm. I bought these off eBay for the princely sum of $NZ25.09 including freight so at an average price of 42 cents each they are remarkable value. Ordered on December 11th and delivered on the 21st, I am pretty happy with that service.

I glued a few of them to bases, textured the base, put a brown wash on the trunk and then varnishrf the trunk to protect the wash.  I am pretty pleased with the result.

I now have an urge to make an oasis....