08 November 2019

Giant Monster (Two-Headed Dino) WIP Continued...

The sculpting is finished on my first figure for use with Mighty Monsters.  I still need to paint it up but I'm pretty happy with it.

The creature is obviously two-headed and also has two bony, spiked, sail-like structures (not wings).  The right sail is white because I was experimenting with Milliput Superfine.  The Milliput is good for some applications but I find it too sticky for straight up sculpting.  I much prefer the polymer clay.

Polymer clay oven in operation
The obvious advantage of polymer clay over epoxies like Milliput or Kneadatite, besides the manageability aspect, is the indefinite working time.  Of course, this requires an additional baking step but the solution is a simple oven.

I've found the typically recommended toaster oven results in burned sculptures, as the heating elements lie too close to the polymer clay piece.  Luckily I found this great oven design on the internet years ago.  Based around a simple hot plate and aluminum baking pans, it cost hardly anything and works beautifully, getting up to 500 degrees F no problem (although I only bake my figures at ~250).  

Just big enough for these monster figures

The creature swelled in size from the initial armature I showed last post.  Still, I'm quite happy with the creature.  Sure, it's rough and crude but I think that emulates the rubber suits of 1950s-70s Japanese monster movies.




03 November 2019

Giant Monster (Two-headed Dino) WIP

I'm in the process of creating a couple of monster sculpts so I can try Ganesha Games' Mighty Monsters.

I bought the game ages ago but never tried it out due to lack of figures.  As the holidays and a major life transition (hopefully a slow-down) approach, I'm finding myself with more time.

I had planned to finish writing up my 1/600 jet game, Our Space Age Air Force, this weekend but got distracted by a new(ish) sculpting technique.

Anyways, the pic above shows the first of two creatures I'm hoping to finish by week's end.  The two-headed beastie is next to one of my scratchbuilt future tanks, which is about 33mm long.  I'm trying to keep all these little (giant) monsters to around 60mm tall.

The goal was not to try for perfection but instead for rapid prototyping.  The plan was to use readily available and CHEAP materials to knock out maybe 5-6 creatures.  Still, after finish my initial few stages in this first guy's production, I couldn't help myself.  I had to make it more complicated and try to do a proper (but still crude) sculpture.

Next to 60mm humanoid for scale
I start out with twisted aluminum foil for the armature.  I use foil at this scale because it's insanely cheap, strong enough to support itself (but barely), can be cut with normal scissors, and when twisted has a lot of tooth for putty-like materials to grab on to.

Of course my putty of choice is Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty, which I use to make a ~40mm base.  About three spoonfuls of putty makes around 5-7 bases.  The putty cures enough to handle in about two hours; during this time I'll twist up the foil into my monster armatures.

Cyanoacrylate glue fixes the armature to the base.  The foil figure then gets a heavy brushing of Elmer's Wood Glue (Interior water-soluble version) to give it a little more rigidity.

Once the PVA glue dries it's time to bulk out the figure.  I mix Durham's with a few drops of blueing liquid to give a nice green color, just so I can see where I'm working better.  I'll add just enough water, using a spray bottle, to make a chalky, sticky paste about the consistency of icing or peanut butter.

The paste then gets globbed on at a few strategic locations, and then spread around using a slightly wet paintbrush.  This technique allows me to "paint" the flesh on the creature, which is super quick and lends a nice flowing, organic look to the figure.

I add putty like this at least twice, allowing at least an hour, preferably two or more, between layers for curing.  Then I brush the figure with two heavy coats of wood glue with just enough water so it spreads.  I'll wait about an hour for the first coat to dry but wait overnight to ensure the second coat gives me a nice plastic shell.

The miniature still looked very crude after this second coat of wood glue dries, so I decided to coat it with a thin layer of polymer clay.  The polymer clay doesn't stick well to the figure, so I first rub a pre-sculpting "slime" on.  I take some basic Sculpey and mix it with a small pee-sized amount of petroleum jelly.  The resulting slime is incredibly sticky and gets smeared onto the sculpture.

Once the whole figure is covered in slime, I thoroughly wash my hands, then get the "glamor-shot" outer layer of polymer clay ready.  I use a mix of Super-Sculpey and various colors of Premo, in this case yellow.  I simply roll the clay out into paper thin sheets and press it right onto the figure.  The previously applied slime ensures the outer layer stays in place.

Ideally I would finish covering the whole figure before detailing but as you can see in the last picture, I deviated from that good practice and started working on the right leg detail.

I hope to continue on this figure tonight and see how far I get.


14 October 2019

1/600 Jet Games: Wings at War Recommendation Request



This post is a request for information to any reader out there with experience with the Wings at War rulesets.  I tried writing the Wings at War folks directly but their email server bounced my message back as undeliverable...

Now, I'm still working on the rewrite of my own jet game, Our Space Age Air Force, and hope to have it done and posted here before November. I designed my game specifically for solo play and I'll allow myself a little immodesty and say it's one of the only rulesets I've created that actually work.

All that being said, I'm a big fan and proud owner of many Tumbling Dice jets and I've recently discovered the Wings at War website. I'm intrigued by the various Wings at War rulesets, mainly because of slightly discounted starter set of minis that come with them but also because they look like solid rules. I downloaded the free Desert Spitfires game from the WaW website and really like what I see, at least for a multi-player game. The designer obviously has some knowledge of air-to-air combat theory, especially with regards to energy management.

So, anyone out there have any experience with WaW games, especially solo-play experience? If so, how exactly did you modify it for solo-play? The rulesets look like they would play well solo with simply a random movement order.

My other question is: which ruleset should I get?

I'd like to play out some "what if" scenarios based on a Cold War-gone-Hot premise, set around 1960. Basically I really want to use all those Cold War interceptors and early missiles.

I like the aircraft complement included with the Wings Over Suez game better than those provided with the Thud Ridge game but I'm concerned the missile rules in Suez may not be as detailed as Thud, or even non-existent. Flames Above the Falklands would probably have the most options that I could "dumb-down" for earlier decades but I'm not enthused about the aircraft included the Starter Set.

Based on my objective above (1960 WWIII, NATO vs. Warsaw Pact) which ruleset do you recommend?

05 October 2019

Our Space Age Air Force: Jet Stats

Fellow blogger Chris from Just Another Wargames Blog asked me to stat up some more aircraft for my homebrew solo air combat game Our Space Age Air Force (OSAAF).  I haven't updated this blog in a while due to a hectic work schedule but Chris' request is a perfect reason to get back into it.

Embarrassingly, I abandoned posting about OSAAF back in 2015(!), after promising to continue presenting my rules, which I was doing in installments.  I've had "Part 5: Gunnery" in my Drafts folder here on Blogger for nearly four years.  Dang.  So I kind of feel like I owe Chris and any other readers...

OK, before presenting any new rules, let's talk aircraft.  As a reminder, aircraft only have three stats in OSAAF: Energy Factor, Maneuverability, and Maximum Speed.  Additionally, in game terms the planes sport a finite amount of armament (# of shots) as well as fuel (game-turn the aircraft must exit).  I'm contemplating adding a fourth stat, Visibility, but I still need to playtest this.

Anyone who knows a little about air combat knows it's all about energy management (kinetic and potential) and that a tremendous amount of factors play into an aircraft's ability to build and retain that energy.  It's ludicrously simplistic to boil these factors down to two stats, Energy Factor and Maneuverability, but I feel a minimal number of characteristics keeps play fast, which is key in a solo game.

So how do we decide on the stats?  I use what's called the TLAR method, or "that looks about right".  Since, at its core, OSAAF uses what's essentially a "roll for degree of activation" mechanic, I've found an Energy Factor score of 3 or 4 works best for playability.  The game is specifically meant to simulate the Korean War to Vietnam War era of jet combat, therefore Energy Factors of 4 and 3 represent typical fighter jets from that time.  An Energy Factor of 5 (the worst) remains reserved for aircraft ill-suited for the air combat role, such as bombers and reconnaissance aircraft.  Superior Energy Factors of 2 or even 1 would be "futuristic" aircraft (from a 50s-60s perspective) featuring innovations such as turbofan engines, stability and control augmentation, and advanced structures allowing higher load factors.

Obviously, I've structured OSAAF so that (density) altitude plays a key role on aircraft performance.  I therefore try to use historical engine data, such as thrust to weight ratio, to decide on the Energy Factor stat for each jet.  A powerful engine will allow a plane to gain a lot of energy but keeping it, especially in a turn, relies on additional characteristics such as wing loading, maximum load factor, and most importantly but maybe the most nebulous, general handling qualities.    If the historical data indicates that a jet was particularly demanding on the pilots, as demonstrated by something like a high accident rate in training, I may bump down the Energy Factor by one.

Maneuverability is just another aspect of energy management but for game purposes I broke it out into High, Medium, and Low ratings.  In nearly all cases however, I use Medium for jets of this era while reserving High for exceptionally agile aircraft (like a WWII dogfighter for example) and Low for heavily loaded aircraft (bombers, transports, etc).

Maximum speed in OSAAF scales linearly at about 110 kts for each point of game stat, so that a jet with a Max Speed 6 can just kiss Mach 1 at sea level.

Initially I simply divided the combat radius (in NM) of the jets by 100 to yield the Fuel Capacity game stat, which again represents the latest safe turn to exit.  Playtest revealed that to be extremely limiting so I now use 40 as the divisor.  Generally this still puts a tight time limit on the games but allows the jets to get to the merge.

Armament, especially number of missiles, reflects a fairly accurate amount of available shots; I typically just use the historic load-outs including actual cyclic rates for guns and an assumed 2 second average burst length.

I generally don't account for differences in gunsights, air-intercept radars, human-factors in cockpit design, and additional crewmembers, mostly because I haven't playtested any modeling of these factors.  I recognize however that all these are vitally important to weaponeering so I intend to introduce some aircraft-specific modifiers.

All that being said, most aircraft probably converge around the same general stats.  This has become a hallmark of my solo games: vanilla-bland sameness for individual game statistics, hopefully offset by a few fun randomizers to introduce unexpected and interesting twists.

Despite this warning, I'm still happy to crank out some aircraft stats for Chris and anyone reading.  I'm thinking I should do the ubiquitous F-4 and MiG-21, as well as perhaps the F-105 (to show how a jet can have multiple Energy Factor and Maneuverability scores depending on loading). Please send your requests.

01 June 2019

Blogs I Enjoy and a Possible Change of Programming

I haven't abandoned this blog, I've just been too busy with real life to be creative.

Also, I've been fairly demotivated to upkeep this blog due to a Blogger glitch: I am unable to comment.  I cannot reply to other people's comments to my blog, nor can I comment on (most) blogs.  Curiously it seems there is one I still can post comments to.  All this has left me less than enthused to continue spending time in the blog-o-sphere.

A number of bloggers I follow don't share my malaise, and I'd like to point out their outstanding work.

Kaptain Kobold's The Stronghold Rebuilt.  The most prolific poster of all the bloggers I follow, I appreciate the time he takes to crank out so many battle reports.  I've discovered a few new games through his play-throughs.

Chris' Just Another Wargames Blog.  Lots of good stuff here but his focus on micro-armor closely parallels my own interests.

Metal Earth.  Excellent art, characterized by gloriously heavy black ink work.  Love it.  More importantly, the art depicts some of the coolest original ideas I've seen in a long while.  And his recent descriptions of discovering West End Games' Star Wars RPG brought a tear of nostalgia to my eye.

The Lone Animator.  Awesome monster sculpts.  I'm not sure why he's not been hired to make big budget Hollywood movies but then again, if I lived in Sweden like him, why the hell would I want to move to Hollywood?

RC Sci Fi.  Best blog on the internet.  Old school scratchbuild model making using techniques he learned as an actual film professional.  Movie quality spaceships that blow away any CGI "model" out there.

Regarding a change of programming here, I've really been getting into Amateur Telescope Making (ATM) recently and I'm tempted to use this blog as a platform to document my progress.  I wonder if I can change the blog's title?

Don't worry, I'll still be gluing spaghetti together and calling it a spaceship but expect photos of fused glass in the future.


13 January 2019

Two 6mm Scratchbuild Future Tank Platoons: Finished

I completed two platoons of future tanks last night, finally finishing up the detailing.

Overall I'm pleased with all aspects of these except the tracks: I dry brushed so sloppy that in general I obscured the detail I painstakingly sculpted.  Oh well, that's learning.  Next time I'll paint a lighter base color on the tracks/wheels and then hit it with a heavy wash.









07 January 2019

(WIP) 6mm Scratchbuild Future Tanks: Painted

Got the base coat, wash, and drybrushing on two platoons of future tanks.  Managed to get some details on one tank, shown here.

I'll put a few more details on this little guy and then hopefully finish the other seven in a similar manner by the end of the week.




EDIT: Thanks for the kind words guys!  I tried to reply the normal way but for some reason Blogger isn't allowing me to comment on my own posts.  Weird.

05 January 2019

(WIP) 6mm Scratchbuild Future Tanks: Heavy Tank

I finished a new sculpt a few days ago, this time a heavy tank, and have been steadily creating copies since then.

The first pic below is a full life cycle shot from sculpt to duplicate cast.



I've managed to create a full four-tank unit as shown next.  I still need to clean the flash off of these and add the barrels but I think they turned out well.  I really like this design.




01 January 2019

Scratchbuild 6mm Future Tanks: WIP Update

 I'm hoping to post more this year and I figured today's the best day to get a good start.

Holiday break's almost over so I'm trying to crank out as many new tank designs as I can.  In the meantime, here's some pics showing the tanks in various stages of completion.

The first shot shows almost all the components I produce when making a new design, from left to right.  First there's the initial shape, created in Sculpey (Firm and Super Sculpey mix).  Then there's the master pattern, a plaster casting of the initial shape with additional details added via impression molding (as explained here).  Next is the silicone mold of the master pattern from which I can make duplicates; cast parts of duplicates are the last things shown on the right.  One of my old tank designs and an X-Acto #11 blade are included for scale.  I'm still using pasta for all sorts of applications you can also see...

As shown in the last two pictures below, the new tank designs feature rotating turrets.  I look forward to finishing these up so I can start on some terrain.  I'm thinking moonscape.







UPDATE: One four-tank unit assembled and ready for paint.  A sensible color scheme would be camouflage or neutral but I think since these are space-age tanks I'll paint them in some Chris Foss-inspired garish yellow or blue scheme with checkerboards.



I'm also playing around with a new technique for tracks using pasta and bits of staples.  I like the results of this proof-of-concept shown here; I'll make a cleaner, sharper version and mold it in silicone.