Hadendowa riflemen, and the wet palette

I began work on the second rub, constructing the first of the plastic rifle-armed warriors. Just now I think there will be three rubs, each comprising one rifle armed band, two of spear and sword armed warriors, and a mounted band.

I indulged in some minor kit bashing for one of the figures, dead easy once one has narrowed the choice of torso and arms; one of the features I really like about working with plastic figures.

The wet palette is working really well. I haven’t moistened it since first using it over three weeks ago, and although the sponge has begun to dry out in one or two places, and the hydro paper has cockled a bit, it’s perfectly servicable and has transformed my painting experience.

Hadendowa riflemen, with a minor conversion for the fellow on the left so he can rest the weapon on his shoulder, and the first command group with my Green Stuff World wet palette … which I simply love. It makes painting so much more fluid – literally – espacially on hot days like today.

First impressions of the wet palette, and another modelling project

I had a a bit of time to prepare and use my new wet palette today. So far, so good.

The instructions suggest soaking the sponge with distilled water, not having any in the house and keen to get started, I used filtered water instead, and so far this seems to be fine. The paint stays wet and workable, which is a pleasure, and I can see that blending colours will be a lot easier too. It’s size is just perfect for my workspace.

In other news, I have been reading a bit about the Suakin to Berber railway, discovering a piece on William Edge, who was involved with the work in 1885, and an old post on a German blog that I follow (which is in German, but Google Translate is your friend). Apart from being better informed, I have decided that it would be interesting to model one of the forts built to protect the railway while work progressed, or didn’t.

Links
William Edge
The Berber Railway – in Sudan

The first Naval Brigade figures near completion, and the wet palette had something to do with it. I improved the appearance of the flap collar by painting the light blue on the underside and edges, giving the single white stripe a light blue border.

One of the strongpoints built along the route of the railway. This will make for a nice model and a perfect wargames scenario.

Wet palette

I’ve read quite a bit about wet palettes recently, and the concept seems to offer an answer to a few issues I have had while painting. I am pretty sparing when dispensing paint on to my palette for use, but paint drying out before I have managed to use it all not only seems wasteful but also slows down painting. It’s worse in the summer here as my study is south facing, so ambient temperature can be high.

I also read about making my own wet palette using tupperware, kitchen paper and greaseproof paper, but thought to seek out something where the design and materials had been thought through … I do like a bit of form follows function where design is concerned.

I settled on Green Stuff World’s offering, selecting the smaller of the two they sell, which at 132mm x 182mm is quite large enough.

It’s nicely presented, and looks and feels like a quality product. I’ll be deploying it this weekend …

Green Stuff World’s wet palette, with sponges on the right and specially coated hydro paper on the left.

Must have tool

I don’t go on about specific tools or materials unless I’m either disappointed or seriously impressed. While I build up to posting photos of finished figures, I must applaud The Army Painter’s Plastic Frame Cutter.

Cutting parts from sprues can be tricky; scalpel blades don’t have the stiffness required, while a Stanley knife is too large. I tried wire cutters, but the straight jaws were not always best suited.

While I am usually sceptical about branded tools, I have to admit that these are brilliant. Well balanced and not too heavy, the short angled jaws are perfect for the job of releasing parts from spues, allowing the task to be approached at an angle which avoids damage to the part being released. I should have bought a pair years ago.

Under nine quid well spent.

Looking after your brushes

I thought I did a pretty good job of looking after my brushes, but there are tips in the video below that help me understand some stuff I have wondered about.

To summarise:
don’t use Kolinsky sable hair brushes for
– oils
– enamels
– metalics
– base coat
– washes
– dry brushing
don’t
– allow paint to pass into the ferrule
– allow paint to dry on the brush
– stand your brush in your wash water
do
– wash brushes regulary
– change your water regulary
– wash brushes with brush soap

One year on …

It’s a year since I posted here for the first time. As we enter the UK’s third Covid-19 lockdown I’m feeling reflective, but optimistic.

I am currently waiting on an order of brass mountain guns and wire spears from North Star, and paint brushes, weathering brushes, Cyanocrylate, and eight goats from Eureka Miniatures. Once I have these I will finish modelling the gun crews and get the first Beja units based.

For the love of a good brush

I love these brushes. The video in this article demonstrates the incredible skill and care that goes into making each one.



Business Insider, 18 December 2019
Link: Business Insider