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Showing posts with label Tutorial. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tutorial. Show all posts

Saturday, 15 October 2022

Lootin' Tutorial - Part Four

 


Well, it’s been a while since I have done one of these.

Back in December 2016 I put up my Looting Tutorials, after previously appearing on Bell of Lost Souls. After a recent mention on Twitter, I thought I would do a quick Part 4 to cover an additional technique.

Curved Surfaces.

Thursday, 15 December 2016

Lootin' Tutorial - Part Three


Continuing my step-by-step part one and two post on how I Loot vehicles, part three follows the  second and third Looted Wagons covering their hull re-builds turrets. Also, lots of finished pics!

Tuesday, 13 December 2016

Lootin' Tutorial - Part Two


Continuing the step-by-step article on how I loot vehicles, part two follows the progress of the first Looted Wagon and shows how I went about rebuilding the hull and adding weapons and details.

Sunday, 11 December 2016

Lootin' Tutorial - Part One

After joining Twitter I began showing some of my Ork builds, from a question or two on there I realised it was a long time since I did my Ork Lootin' articles for Bell of Lost Souls. So I thought I would revisit them and post them up on Recalcitrant Daze...



This three part article will follow my progress as I turn three old Leman Russ tanks into Looted Wagons, covering everything from concept to the finished build. This first part covers the basics and also the benefits of doing a mock up.

Tuesday, 23 October 2012

Blessings of the Plaguefather - Painting Guide


Here is a basic rundown of how I went about painting the Plaguebearers (as well as the Nurglings). It should be noted that the paints I have aren't part of the all new shiney range. As such you won't be able to follow it exactly if you only have new GW paints, however it is only a guide, people should modify it to suit.

Stage One - Base coats.

 
a. Over a black undercoat the Plaguebearer was given a rough coat of Rotting Flesh, While I ensured raised areas were covered I wasn’t fussed about getting into every nook and cranny.

b. Ogre Flesh wash was thin liberally applied.

c. This was followed with Rotting Flesh which was heavily drybrushed on. I took care to give extra attention to any areas I wanted to stand out more, such as the belly

 
Still part of the 'stage 1' Leviathan Purple and Baal Red washes were used on the ‘stumpy’ legs.

Stage Two - Early Details & Further Washes to Add Depth.

 
a. Any recessed areas (such as the guts) which I wanted a different colour were blocked in. For example the guts were painted.

b. This was followed by a Devlan Mud wash over the skin and the purple/red legs.

c. Rotting Flesh was then drybrushed on and/or used to highlight areas. Painting the recessed areas before the wash allows you to tidy up anything that needs doing at this stage.

Stage Three - All the Details and many Washes.

 
The guts got a Baal Red wash followed with some Leviathan Purple, before being gloss varnished. The eyes were picked out with red, washed with Devlan before highlighted red.

The horns were drybrushed white so that the horns started flesh coloured and progressively becoming more white along the length.

At that point the pictures stop, the fact is the rest of it doesn’t have a ‘recipe’ as such. I simply added more washes to tint the skin in different areas.

Reds, blues, greens and so on followed with the occasional Devlan to add more depth in certain areas.

I used more Rotting Flesh to highlight before picking out the teeth and claws with white/Devlan.

For the swords I base coated then in Boltgun Metal before covering them completely in a mix of different Mig rusts.
 
The boils/pustules were painted Goblin Green and were highlighted with Goblin Green after a Devlan wash. They were later given a gloss varnish finish.
 
After all that it was just a case of doing the base and the figure was finished.

Finished figure used in the pictures above looked like this:

 
Hopefully people found that interesting and possibly useful...

Thursday, 27 September 2012

Nurgle Tank Tutorial

I originally did this tutorial a while back for the MWC, but after working on the Helbrute I thought I should repost it here for posterity. Plus I didn't finish the Helbrute tonight so it is a perfect filler till tomorrow.

Nurgle Tank Tutorial
aka Converting Nurgle Tanks for Those Who Cannot Sculpt.

While I’ve never done a Nurgle army I have been unable to resist the lure of converting some vehicles for dedicated to the Plaguefather. It started with a Land Raider back in 2007 and since then I’ve found myself doing one every so often. I even pained a couple of them, which for me is a novelty.

There is one problem I faced when I came to start on doing some Nurgle dedicated tanks and walkers, namely when it comes to sculpting I have no ability whatsoever. Through various techniques I worked out as I went along this didn’t prove much of a hurdle after all.

While not a step by step guide the following lays out the various techniques and materials I have used on the Nurgle vehicles I have converted – and in a couple of cases still in the process of working on.

Surface Texture I

This was the first technique I employed . I was testing out some paint stripper on a second hand sentinel I had to see how useful it was and discovered that the stripper softened the plastic and gave it an interesting surface texture.

When working on the Nurgle tanks I found I could achieve two different surface textures depending on the conditions I left the model when it was covered in the stripper.


This is the more subtle finish, edges are smoothed out slightly and a rippling effect occurs, the softness of the plastic allows you to distort the plastic and you can easily push something sharp through it to create holes. To get the effect the model was simply left for a couple of nights with the stripper plastered all over it.


This is the more extreme finish. By leaving the model in a cold area overnight then bringing it into the warm and adding more stripper the rough surface texture was created.

In both cases care has to be taken to mask off any areas you don’t want effected, such as details (vents, hatches and so on) and weapons (you don’t want barrel droop…).

I used the texture achieved with the stripper as a base to then add more effects over the top.

Surface Texture II & III


A combination of super glue and sugar sprinkled on for a diseased skin like effect. The sugar was built up with small amounts sprinkled on, with a final coat of super glue brushed on afterwards to seal everything.


Showing the WIP sugar and how it looks once some paint and washes have been applied (still PIP however)


For a different looking rough diseased skin like appearance I used thin tissue paper (clean tissues preferably, though I suppose used would be more Nurgley) superglued to the model. Often adding some sugar to the top covering of superglue gives even more texture. The tricky thing is how to end the area covered, often blending fleshy areas into it will work best.

Surface Texture IV


Using a rotary power tool (a dremel in this case) a pitted look is easily achieved. I found simply letting the tool choose where to go gets a more ‘natural’ look. Lightly bringing the tool into contact with the model and letting it jump and skip. Naturally care has to be taken so not to damage either the model or yourself. Occasionally I add more force to vary the look and bring more variety to the texture created.

Again a PIP picture to show the texture
once some paint and washes have been added.

Flesh

As I mentioned I can’t sculpt, frankly I can barely fill gaps with Green Stuff let alone accomplish something more ambitious. However I use plenty of GS on my Nurgle vehicles to add areas of ‘flesh’, deamonic flesh growing or merging with the vehicle. I don’t think it counts as sculpting as I am simply adding GS and then pushing, pulling and poking it into shapes and forms that look pleasing and interesting.

The quick and simple way of adding flesh.
Rather than simply covering a vehicle in GS I tend to use small areas or keep large areas uncovered. The aim is to add to the vehicle, not make it the filling in a GS bun.


The Dreadnought and Land Raider are examples where plenty of GS has been added but the shape of the base model is still clearly defined and much of the original pieces still show through. For vehicles which are not Deamonically Possessed I would add far less GS.

Another way to use the flesh is to cut into the model and fill with GS, this can be used to show that under the skin is the Daemon trying to get out or showing the vehicle ‘healing’ after damage.


Pustules and Growths

To break up the areas of flesh and to add interest I add ‘pustules’ and ‘growths’.


Pustules are a mix of GS balls, ball bearings and small balls taken from a water filter. The balls are pushed into the GS flesh, or arranged into groups as shown above.


The fungal like growths are made by using a lighter to heat one end of styrene tube. The tube softens and distorts into the shape shown. I use groups of three to mirror the Nurgle icon, in the picture you can see a variant where I have used different diameters of tube to allow one growth to fit inside another.

‘Gunk...’


Can’t think of a better term than gunk for the mucus like discharge or pools. This is a mixture of two part epoxy and glue from a hot glue gun. While still hot it can be manipulated and drawn out.

On the possessed vindicator shown in the pictures I imagined that the vehicle was ‘fuelled’ by victims being thrown into the liquid at the rear while waste parts are then discharged out the rear…I mixed in a grasping hand into the fuelling pool and added some bones to the discharge.


To finish here is a picture of the Land Raider – the first Nurgle tank I finished...


And to show that the same techniques can be used on a smaller scale here we have one of my Daemonically Possessed Plague ships from Battle Fleet Gothic...


I hope that small foray into the diseased world of my Nurgle vehicles was interesting. To see more of the models featured above have a browse using the tags on the right. Please feel free to ask any questions and i'll do my best to answer them.

Sunday, 24 July 2011

Stowage Tutorial - Bangalores

I have been asked by SC over on The Spring Offensive to post up a tutorial I knocked up way back in Jan 2008 for some stowage - namely Bangalores.

I based my bangalores on the ones I got from Forge World in their Storm Sword kit:

The original bit of stowage from Forge World.

And a couple of example of ones I built:

Command Chimera - doesn't show the piece
that well unfortunately.

From my Hellhound.
As you can see on my Bangalores I have kept the recessed ends. It would of been much easier to simply have the ends flush but I wanted to keep the look of the original piece.

I went about making them like this:

Not a great diagram. Sorry.

A - A 3.2 diameter tube is cut to length (whatever suits the tank). Now the walls look to thick as such.

B - Using a pin vice the hole is opened up to 2mm in diameter, to about 5mm in depth.

C - Some 2mm diameter rod is cut, approx 3-4mm in length and one of these is pushed into the hole at each end of the 3.2 tube just past the end.

D - A second tube is done the same way and glued side by side to the first one.

E - Next up is the mounting brackets, use soem styrene strip, in the example a 1x2mm strip was used. It is cut into pieces as long as the two tubes are wide (so approx 6.5mm long). One piece is glued to each end of the tube, the position is whatever looks good and will depend on the length of the tubes used. A third one in the centre might be worthwhile if they are particularly long (though making them too long may not long right).

F - Straps. I used .25mm styrene cut to match the bracket width (2mm in this case). Cut long enough to wrap round the tubes from one bracket side to the other and a bit extra. Brush some poly cement over the tubes & brackets and bend the strap over. The strap shouldn't be flush with the brackets yet.

G - Finsihing off. Trim the strap ends and then cut from a styrene rod (.75mm rod with a 1mm thick bracket) some rivets and glue in place.

Hopefully that is all clear enough. If I get chance I may do an improved diagram.