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Ursula Rothe

The Open University, Classical Studies, Faculty Member

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Address: United Kingdom

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Sinclair W Bell

Northern Illinois University

Margarita Gleba

University of Padova

Universidade Federal do Rio de Janeiro (UFRJ)

Marie Louise Stig Sørensen

University of Cambridge

Michael Dietler

University of Chicago

Francesco Camia

Università degli Studi "La Sapienza" di Roma

Allison K Thomason

Southern Illinois University Edwardsville

Paolo Maggiolini

Università Cattolica del Sacro Cuore (Catholic University of the Sacred Heart)

Andrea Squitieri

Ludwig-Maximilians-Universität München

University of Toronto

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Books by Ursula Rothe

The Toga and Roman Identity

This book traces the toga's history from its origins in the Etruscan garment known as the tebenna... more This book traces the toga's history from its origins in the Etruscan garment known as the tebenna, through its use as an everyday garment in the Republican period to its increasingly exclusive role as a symbol of privilege in the Principate and its decline in use in late antiquity. It aims to shift the scholarly view of the toga from one dominated by its role as a feature of Roman art to one in which it is seen as an everyday object and a highly charged symbol that in its various forms was central to the definition and negotiation of important gender, age and status boundaries, as well as political stances and ideologies. It discusses the toga's significance not just in Rome itself, but also in the provinces, where it reveals ideas about cultural identity, status and the role of the Roman state. The Toga and Roman Identity shows that, by looking in detail at the history of Rome's national garment, we can gain a better understanding of the complexities of Roman identity f...

Dress and Cultural Identity in the Rhine-Moselle Region of the Roman Empire

Dress and Cultural Identity in the Rhine-Moselle Region of the Roman Empire, 2009

This revised Phd thesis uses the large extant corpus of funerary art from the Rhine Moselle regio... more This revised Phd thesis uses the large extant corpus of funerary art from the Rhine Moselle region, to examine and analyse the clothing depicted and to ask what they can tell us about cultural identity in this frontier region and how they can be used to explore concepts of Romanization. The study deals with civilian, not military dress, and presents a typology of garments depicted, and attempts to determine what was worn prior to Roman rule. The results are analysed in three geographical case studies, showing great localised divergence in self-presentation through dress even within this one region. This is linked to the circumstances by which these local areas were brought under Roman rule.

Journal articles by Ursula Rothe

Ursula Rothe, Anique Hamelink and Nicolas Delferrière, "Roman Clavus Decoration on Gallic Dress: A Reevaluation Based on New Discoveries", American Journal of Archaeology, 127-4, October 2023, p. 545-562.

American Journal of Archaeology, 2023

The Book Reviews Editor will ask publishers to send print copies of books directly to reviewers o... more The Book Reviews Editor will ask publishers to send print copies of books directly to reviewers once the reviewers have been identified. The following are excluded from review and should not be sent: offprints; reeditions, except those with significant changes; journal volumes, except the first in a new series; monographs of very small size and scope; and books dealing with archaeology of the Americas.

Excavations in Area III on Tall Zar‘ā

Annual of the Department of Antiquities of Jordan, 58 (pp. 257-273), 2018

Tall Zirāʿa, Jordanien: Landwirtschaftlicher Komplex, ländliche Villa im orientalischen Stil oder Kloseranlage? Die Ausgrabungen im Areal III

The excavation in May 2014 on Tall Zirāʿa focused on area III in the southern part of the tall pl... more The excavation in May 2014 on Tall Zirāʿa focused on area III in the southern part of the tall plateau. Excavations in this area in Summer 2008 had revealed a large Byzantine building complex with a courtyard with mosaic floor, a barrel-vaulted cistern and an oil mill. The main purpose of the spring season 2014 was to dig test trenches to gain further information about the complex, like its extension or function. Within these works an ancient Greek inscription on a round mosaic, already discovered in 2008 but covered with soil for its protection, could be revealed.

Dress in the middle Danube provinces: the garments, their origins and their distribution

‘The “Third Way”: Treveran women’s dress and the “Gallic Ensemble”’

American Journal of Archaeology 116 (2012), 235-252

Roman funerary art in northern Gaul and the Rhineland reveals a variety of patterns in dress beha... more Roman funerary art in northern Gaul and the Rhineland reveals a variety of patterns in dress behavior. In some places, pre-Roman dress continued to appear in portraits until the late third century C.E., while many depictions show full Roman dress or combinations of Roman and indigenous garments. The most widespread and intriguing phenomenon observed in this study was a change in dress behavior as a result of Roman conquest; this change, however, did not involve the adoption of Roman dress but the development of a new, panregional native ensemble. Comparative work with anthropological studies of dress behavior in more recent contexts has enabled testing of hypotheses as to the meaning of this apparent "Third Way" in dress practice. The results reveal that the cultural consequences of integration into the Roman empire were more complicated than mere negotiations of place along a spectrum from native to Roman.* * I am grateful to the audiences in London, Manchester, and Frankfurt who heard and gave feedback on these ideas when I presented them in the form of various papers; to Hubert Leifeld of the Landesamt für Denkmalpfl ege Rheinland-Pfalz in Koblenz for discussing with me the fi ndings of his research on the Treveran brooches; to the anonymous reviewers for the AJA for their extremely helpful suggestions; and to Lloyd Llewellyn-Jones for his comments on the text and images.

Der Grabstein der Severina Nutrix aus Köln: eine neue Deutung

Ro the , Ur su l a , Der Grabstein der Severina Nutrix aus Köln. Eine neue Deutung E ge r, C hr i... more Ro the , Ur su l a , Der Grabstein der Severina Nutrix aus Köln. Eine neue Deutung E ge r, C hr is top h, Kleidung und Grabausstattung barbarischer Eliten im 5. Jahrhundert. Gedanken zu Philipp von Rummels "Habitus barbarus". .. .. .. . Høj be rg Bje r g, Li ne Ma j-Brit t, Die Denare aus den Siedlungen der römischen und germanischen Eisenzeit in Jütland. .

Gallische Frauenkleidung in römischer Zeit

Hugh Last Fellowship: Wearing Rome: the toga in Roman culture

Papers of the British School at Rome

by Eva Andersson Strand, Karina Grömer, and Ursula Rothe

In Andersson Strand, E., Grömer, K., Malcolm-Davies, J., Mannering, U. and Rothe, U (eds), Archae... more

Chapters by Ursula Rothe

Veiling in Pannonia

Embracing the Provinces: Society and Material Culture of the Roman Frontier Regions , 2018

The Roman Villa: Definitions And Variations

The term villa had multiple meanings in Latin and many manifestations in Roman history as well as... more The term villa had multiple meanings in Latin and many manifestations in Roman history as well as Mediterranean-wide variations in the archaeological record. In fact, the establishment of a precise definition already preoccupied ancient authors such as Cato and Varro, and modern scholars continue to debate how it can be applied to what kinds of buildings. While we may still be far from finding a universal definition, both the written and the archaeological record can point us in the right direction.

The Roman Villa

The Roman Villa in the Mediterranean Basin

‘Ethnicity’ in: M. Harlow (ed.), A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion, Vol. 1: Antiquity, London 2017, 119-134

Ethnicity in the Roman Northwest

McInerney/A Companion to Ethnicity in the Ancient Mediterranean, 2014

The following winter was taken up by measures of a most beneficial kind. His intention was, in fa... more The following winter was taken up by measures of a most beneficial kind. His intention was, in fact, that people who lived in widely dispersed and primitive settlements and hence were naturally inclined to war should become accustomed to peace and quiet by the provision of amenities. Hence he gave encouragement to individuals and assistance to communities to build temples, marketplaces and town houses. … Further, he educated the sons of the leading men in the liberal arts and he rated the natural talents of the Britons above the trained skills of the Gauls. The result was that those who just lately had been rejecting the Roman tongue now conceived a desire for eloquence. Thus even our style of dress came into favour and the toga was everywhere to be seen. Gradually, too, they went astray into the allurements of evil ways, colonnades and warm baths and elegant banquets. The Britons, who had had no experience of this, called it "civilization," although it was a part of their enslavement.

‘Die norisch-pannonische Tracht: gab es sie wirklich?’

in: G. Grabherr/T. Schierl (eds), Relations Abroad? Brooches and Other Elements of Dress as Sources for Reconstructing Interregional Movement and Group Boundaries from the Punic Wars to the Decline of the Western Empire. Proceedings of a Conference held 27th-29th April 2011 in Innsbruck , 2013

‘Whose fashion? Men, women and Roman culture as reflected in dress in the cities of the Roman north-west’

in: G. Woolf/E. Hemelrijk (eds), Gender and the Roman City, Leiden (Brill: Mnemosyne Supplements, History and Archaeology of Classical Antiquity), 243-268, 2013

‘Das norische Frauengewand’

in: M. Tellenbach/R. Schulz/A. Wieczorek (eds), Die Macht der Toga. Exhibition Catalogue, Roemer- und Pelizaeus-Museum, Hildesheim/Reiss-Engelhorn-Museen, Mannheim, 189-193, 2013

‘Dress and cultural identity in the Roman Empire’

in: M. Harlow (ed.), Dress and Identity (IAA Inter-disciplinary Series, Studies in Archaeology, History, Literature and Art, Volume II), Oxford, 59-68, 2012

The Toga and Roman Identity

This book traces the toga's history from its origins in the Etruscan garment known as the tebenna... more This book traces the toga's history from its origins in the Etruscan garment known as the tebenna, through its use as an everyday garment in the Republican period to its increasingly exclusive role as a symbol of privilege in the Principate and its decline in use in late antiquity. It aims to shift the scholarly view of the toga from one dominated by its role as a feature of Roman art to one in which it is seen as an everyday object and a highly charged symbol that in its various forms was central to the definition and negotiation of important gender, age and status boundaries, as well as political stances and ideologies. It discusses the toga's significance not just in Rome itself, but also in the provinces, where it reveals ideas about cultural identity, status and the role of the Roman state. The Toga and Roman Identity shows that, by looking in detail at the history of Rome's national garment, we can gain a better understanding of the complexities of Roman identity f...

Dress and Cultural Identity in the Rhine-Moselle Region of the Roman Empire

Dress and Cultural Identity in the Rhine-Moselle Region of the Roman Empire, 2009

This revised Phd thesis uses the large extant corpus of funerary art from the Rhine Moselle regio... more This revised Phd thesis uses the large extant corpus of funerary art from the Rhine Moselle region, to examine and analyse the clothing depicted and to ask what they can tell us about cultural identity in this frontier region and how they can be used to explore concepts of Romanization. The study deals with civilian, not military dress, and presents a typology of garments depicted, and attempts to determine what was worn prior to Roman rule. The results are analysed in three geographical case studies, showing great localised divergence in self-presentation through dress even within this one region. This is linked to the circumstances by which these local areas were brought under Roman rule.

Ursula Rothe, Anique Hamelink and Nicolas Delferrière, "Roman Clavus Decoration on Gallic Dress: A Reevaluation Based on New Discoveries", American Journal of Archaeology, 127-4, October 2023, p. 545-562.

American Journal of Archaeology, 2023

The Book Reviews Editor will ask publishers to send print copies of books directly to reviewers o... more The Book Reviews Editor will ask publishers to send print copies of books directly to reviewers once the reviewers have been identified. The following are excluded from review and should not be sent: offprints; reeditions, except those with significant changes; journal volumes, except the first in a new series; monographs of very small size and scope; and books dealing with archaeology of the Americas.

Excavations in Area III on Tall Zar‘ā

Annual of the Department of Antiquities of Jordan, 58 (pp. 257-273), 2018

Tall Zirāʿa, Jordanien: Landwirtschaftlicher Komplex, ländliche Villa im orientalischen Stil oder Kloseranlage? Die Ausgrabungen im Areal III

The excavation in May 2014 on Tall Zirāʿa focused on area III in the southern part of the tall pl... more The excavation in May 2014 on Tall Zirāʿa focused on area III in the southern part of the tall plateau. Excavations in this area in Summer 2008 had revealed a large Byzantine building complex with a courtyard with mosaic floor, a barrel-vaulted cistern and an oil mill. The main purpose of the spring season 2014 was to dig test trenches to gain further information about the complex, like its extension or function. Within these works an ancient Greek inscription on a round mosaic, already discovered in 2008 but covered with soil for its protection, could be revealed.

Dress in the middle Danube provinces: the garments, their origins and their distribution

‘The “Third Way”: Treveran women’s dress and the “Gallic Ensemble”’

American Journal of Archaeology 116 (2012), 235-252

Roman funerary art in northern Gaul and the Rhineland reveals a variety of patterns in dress beha... more Roman funerary art in northern Gaul and the Rhineland reveals a variety of patterns in dress behavior. In some places, pre-Roman dress continued to appear in portraits until the late third century C.E., while many depictions show full Roman dress or combinations of Roman and indigenous garments. The most widespread and intriguing phenomenon observed in this study was a change in dress behavior as a result of Roman conquest; this change, however, did not involve the adoption of Roman dress but the development of a new, panregional native ensemble. Comparative work with anthropological studies of dress behavior in more recent contexts has enabled testing of hypotheses as to the meaning of this apparent "Third Way" in dress practice. The results reveal that the cultural consequences of integration into the Roman empire were more complicated than mere negotiations of place along a spectrum from native to Roman.* * I am grateful to the audiences in London, Manchester, and Frankfurt who heard and gave feedback on these ideas when I presented them in the form of various papers; to Hubert Leifeld of the Landesamt für Denkmalpfl ege Rheinland-Pfalz in Koblenz for discussing with me the fi ndings of his research on the Treveran brooches; to the anonymous reviewers for the AJA for their extremely helpful suggestions; and to Lloyd Llewellyn-Jones for his comments on the text and images.

Der Grabstein der Severina Nutrix aus Köln: eine neue Deutung

Ro the , Ur su l a , Der Grabstein der Severina Nutrix aus Köln. Eine neue Deutung E ge r, C hr i... more Ro the , Ur su l a , Der Grabstein der Severina Nutrix aus Köln. Eine neue Deutung E ge r, C hr is top h, Kleidung und Grabausstattung barbarischer Eliten im 5. Jahrhundert. Gedanken zu Philipp von Rummels "Habitus barbarus". .. .. .. . Høj be rg Bje r g, Li ne Ma j-Brit t, Die Denare aus den Siedlungen der römischen und germanischen Eisenzeit in Jütland. .

Gallische Frauenkleidung in römischer Zeit

Hugh Last Fellowship: Wearing Rome: the toga in Roman culture

Papers of the British School at Rome

by Eva Andersson Strand, Karina Grömer, and Ursula Rothe

In Andersson Strand, E., Grömer, K., Malcolm-Davies, J., Mannering, U. and Rothe, U (eds), Archae... more

Veiling in Pannonia

Embracing the Provinces: Society and Material Culture of the Roman Frontier Regions , 2018

The Roman Villa: Definitions And Variations

The term villa had multiple meanings in Latin and many manifestations in Roman history as well as... more The term villa had multiple meanings in Latin and many manifestations in Roman history as well as Mediterranean-wide variations in the archaeological record. In fact, the establishment of a precise definition already preoccupied ancient authors such as Cato and Varro, and modern scholars continue to debate how it can be applied to what kinds of buildings. While we may still be far from finding a universal definition, both the written and the archaeological record can point us in the right direction.

The Roman Villa

The Roman Villa in the Mediterranean Basin

‘Ethnicity’ in: M. Harlow (ed.), A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion, Vol. 1: Antiquity, London 2017, 119-134

Ethnicity in the Roman Northwest

McInerney/A Companion to Ethnicity in the Ancient Mediterranean, 2014

The following winter was taken up by measures of a most beneficial kind. His intention was, in fa... more The following winter was taken up by measures of a most beneficial kind. His intention was, in fact, that people who lived in widely dispersed and primitive settlements and hence were naturally inclined to war should become accustomed to peace and quiet by the provision of amenities. Hence he gave encouragement to individuals and assistance to communities to build temples, marketplaces and town houses. … Further, he educated the sons of the leading men in the liberal arts and he rated the natural talents of the Britons above the trained skills of the Gauls. The result was that those who just lately had been rejecting the Roman tongue now conceived a desire for eloquence. Thus even our style of dress came into favour and the toga was everywhere to be seen. Gradually, too, they went astray into the allurements of evil ways, colonnades and warm baths and elegant banquets. The Britons, who had had no experience of this, called it "civilization," although it was a part of their enslavement.

‘Die norisch-pannonische Tracht: gab es sie wirklich?’

in: G. Grabherr/T. Schierl (eds), Relations Abroad? Brooches and Other Elements of Dress as Sources for Reconstructing Interregional Movement and Group Boundaries from the Punic Wars to the Decline of the Western Empire. Proceedings of a Conference held 27th-29th April 2011 in Innsbruck , 2013

‘Whose fashion? Men, women and Roman culture as reflected in dress in the cities of the Roman north-west’

in: G. Woolf/E. Hemelrijk (eds), Gender and the Roman City, Leiden (Brill: Mnemosyne Supplements, History and Archaeology of Classical Antiquity), 243-268, 2013

‘Das norische Frauengewand’

in: M. Tellenbach/R. Schulz/A. Wieczorek (eds), Die Macht der Toga. Exhibition Catalogue, Roemer- und Pelizaeus-Museum, Hildesheim/Reiss-Engelhorn-Museen, Mannheim, 189-193, 2013

‘Dress and cultural identity in the Roman Empire’

in: M. Harlow (ed.), Dress and Identity (IAA Inter-disciplinary Series, Studies in Archaeology, History, Literature and Art, Volume II), Oxford, 59-68, 2012

Die Anfänge der Romanisierungsforschung

[About the book] 21 papers on contemporary perspectives of Romanization presented at a graduate s... more [About the book] 21 papers on contemporary perspectives of Romanization presented at a graduate seminar and colloquium on ‘Romanization and Self-Romanization’ held at the Friedrich-Schiller-Universitat Jena and the Siegmundsburg-Centre of Studies in 2004. The first section deals with theoretical models and sociological concepts; the second looks at archaeological and historical studies. The geographical scope covers the entire Empire from Lusitania to Asia Minor, from Hadrian’s Wall to the Sahara.

Kleidung und Romanisierung: der Raum Rhein-Mosel

‘Rome, resistance to (cultural)’

in: R.S. Bagnall/K. Brodersen/C.B. Champion/A. Erskine/S.R. Huebner (eds), The Encyclopedia of Ancient History (Wiley-Blackwell), 5950-5953, 2012

Keywords: archaeology; assimilation and exclusion; ethnicity; Greek history; imperialism and conq... more

‘Roman Empire, regional cultures’

in: R.S. Bagnall/K. Brodersen/C.B. Champion/A. Erskine/S.R. Huebner (eds), The Encyclopedia of Ancient History (Wiley-Blackwell), 5866-5870, 2012

Keywords: archaeology; assimilation and exclusion; cultural history; ethnicity; imperialism and c... more

‘Romanization’

in: R.S. Bagnall/K. Brodersen/C.B. Champion/A. Erskine/S.R. Huebner (eds), The Encyclopedia of Ancient History (Wiley-Blackwell), 5875-5881, 2012

Keywords: archaeology; assimilation and exclusion; Augustan Age; civilization; classical civiliza... more

Rev. Ways of Being Roman: discourses of identity in the Roman West. By Louise Revell. 240mm. Pp 144, 17 ills (some col), graphs, plans, one table. Oxbow Books, Oxford, 2015.ISBN 9781842172926. £29.99 (pbk)

The Antiquaries Journal

wear (for example, van Driel-Murray) and epigraphy (for example, Larsson Lovén).What is striking ... more wear (for example, van Driel-Murray) and epigraphy (for example, Larsson Lovén).What is striking throughout the book is the rich use of theoretical approaches in the chapters, notably from modern economics and geography but also other sources. There is Ruffing’s use of economic theory to examine ‘horizontal’ and ‘vertical’ specialisation. Monteix draws on chaîne opératoire to examine Pompeian bakeries and baking, and Goodman and Droß-Krüpe both utilise cluster theory to analyse the spatial distribution of crafts. Other chapters also use spatial analysis, including Poblom’s examination of the potters at Sagalassos. Broekaert draws on agency theory for the analysis of freedmen in business, and Larsson Lovén looks at gender theory to examine the role of women in urban economic activities. These are welcome discussions, but perhaps there could also have been more critical reflection on their use and their value for examining the Roman period. The emphasis on the range of people involved in these activities is also welcome, although I wonder whether the choice of the word ‘craftsmen’ in the title, albeit arguably meant in a gender-neutral way, was wise when the book addresses gender issues and the role of women. What is noticeable throughout is the emphasis on the Roman economy without tackling what this means in terms of identity. There is an emphasis on theMediterranean region of the Empire, which is often where there are good archaeological and textual datasets, except for a few chapters that include the north-west provinces. All the studies emphasise the ‘Roman’ perspective, although it was interesting in van Driel-Murray’s study of footwear that she emphasises how there is little knowledge of shoes in the civilian contexts of her study area since most come from military sites (p 132); indeed, there is no real discussion of the definition of city or urban settlement in the book. Localised practices and traditions in manufacture processes and organisation, trade, exchange and consumption are important considerations alongside ‘Roman’ traditions. Can we perhaps, instead, think in terms of multiple ‘Roman’ economies across the Empire? Contextualising the agency into local histories, identities, circumstances and social traditions could result in an even richer understanding of these craft and trade activities; and, in this sense, is ‘normalising’ understanding a straightforward task? The book emphasises that the understanding of the social, economic and cultural history of urban trade, manufacture and retail is crucial for understanding the Roman Empire and its history (p 1), and it demonstrates well the huge potential for future research.

Rev. Toby F. Martin & Rosie Weetch (ed.). Dress and society: contributions from archaeology. 2017. Oxford & Philadelphia: Oxbow; 978-1-785-70315-7 £36

Antiquity

This volume arose out of a 2012 conference called ‘Rags and Riches: Dress and Dress Accessories i... more This volume arose out of a 2012 conference called ‘Rags and Riches: Dress and Dress Accessories in Social Context’ at the University of Reading, which was designed to bring together archaeologists and dress historians to discuss methodology surrounding the interpretation of dress evidence. The resulting volume, however, as the authors say (p. viii), is more narrowly defined. Although the authors’ Introduction discusses dress in general, all but one (Standley) of the eight papers in the volume focus on dress accessories, rather than clothing or any other aspect of appearance. This is both the strength and the weakness of the volume. Its strength lies in its stated aim of moving beyondwhat the editors justifiably describe as the limited typological focus of most traditional work on dress accessories in archaeology, to look at the broader meaning of such objects in terms of identity and social dynamics. This is a clear desideratum of the field and is to be heartily welcomed, as is the fact that the contributions to the volume genuinely live up to this aim. The claims made in the Introduction for the significance of dress, based especially on work that has been done on clothing and garments, are slightly at odds with the different nature of the jewellery and dress accessories under discussion. Similarly, those archaeologists working on dress iconography or textile studies, for example, might baulk at the assumption made by the editors in their Introduction that jewellery and similar items represent the totality of dress evidence in archaeology. Nonetheless, the contributors themselves do not make this assumption in their papers, and the wide chronological focus of the volume—from the Middle Bronze Age to the Early Modern period—coupled with the geographic focus on Britain (although two papers look at the Roman northwest more generally), affords the opportunity to compare methodologies of similar material across a meaningful spectrum.

Rev. Romanisation und Repräsentation in Noricum. By. M. Zimmermann. Antiquas Abhandlungen zur Alten Geschichte 71. Habelt, Bonn, 2017. Pp. xi + 465, illus. Price: €93.00. isbn9783774940802

Britannia

Rev. A. Ovadiah/Y. Turnheim, Temples, Shrines and Temene in Israel, Rome 2011. Bonner Jahrbücher 212 (2012), 445-447

LVR-Landesmuseums Bonn und des LVR-Amtes für Bodendenkmalpflege im Rheinland sowie des Vereins vo... more LVR-Landesmuseums Bonn und des LVR-Amtes für Bodendenkmalpflege im Rheinland sowie des Vereins von Altertumsfreunden im Rheinlande BAND 212 2012 Diese PDF-Datei ist nur zum persönlichen Versand durch den Autor bestimmt. Sie darf bis Januar 2017 nicht in das Internet, zum Beispiel auf die Homepage des Verfassers, gestellt werden. This PDF is good for private dissemination by the author only. Its publication on the world wide web, for example on the writer's homepage, is restricted until January 2017. Ce fichier pdf est destiné seulement à la distribution personnelle de l'auteur. Jusqu'au janvier 2017 il ne doit pas être mis en ligne sur l'internet, par exemple sur la page d'accueil du nomographe. Questo file pdf e destinato esclusivamente all'uso personale dell'autore. Non né è permessa la pubblicazione in Internet, per esempio sulla pagina Internet dell'autore, prima del Gennaio 2017. VERLAG PHILIPP VON ZABERN • DARMSTADT Gedruckt mit Mitteln des Ministeriums für Bauen, Wohnen, Stadtentwicklung und Verkehr des Landes Nordrhein-Westfalen, des Landschaftsverbandes Rheinland (LVR) und des Vereins von Altertumsfreunden im Rheinlande. VIII und 542 Seiten mit 201 Abbildungen, davon 42 farbig, sowie 14 Tafeln. Es gelten die Regeln nach www.av-rheinland.de/BonnerJb.htm. Zu beachten sind insbesondere die dort eingestellten Grundsätze nach den ›Berichten der Römisch-Germanischen Kommission‹ Band , , und zwar im Sinne der geisteswissenschaftlichen Zitierweise mit Titelschlagwort. Ferner finden Anwendung die ebenfalls eingebundenen Abkürzungen für Periodika nach derselben Zeitschrift Band , , sowie die desgleichen erschlossenen Kürzel der antiken Quellen nach ›Der Neue Pauly‹. Weitere Abkürzungen zu Beginn der Fundchronik ›Ausgrabungen, Funde und Befunde‹ in diesem Band. Aufsätze für die Bonner Jahrbücher werden in einem Peer-Review-Verfahren begutachtet. Redaktion: Olaf Dräger ISSN - ISBN ---4778-5 Copyright  LVR-Landesmuseum Bonn, LVR-Amt für Bodendenkmalpflege im Rheinland und Verein von Altertumsfreunden im Rheinlande sowie Verlag Philipp von Zabern. Satz und Druck: Beltz Bad Langensalza GmbH. Alle Rechte vorbehalten. Gedruckt auf alterungsbeständigem Papier mit neutralem pH-Wert.

Rev. Wearing the Cloak. Dressing the Soldier in Roman Times. Edited by M.-L. Nosch. Ancient Textiles Series 10. Oxbow Books, Oxford, 2012. Pp. vii + 144, illus. Price: £25.00. isbn 978 1 84217 437 1

Britannia, 2013

This edited volume brings together nine contributions on the subject of the clothing of Roman sol... more This edited volume brings together nine contributions on the subject of the clothing of Roman soldiers, some of which were presented at a conference on military textiles at the Danish Research Foundation's Centre for Textile Research in Copenhagen in 2008. It is a subject that, as the introduction points out, is rarely addressed. The reasons for this are manifold; the most important is perhaps the fragmentary and very climate-dependent incidence of textile survival, which has led to a strong reliance on mainly metal-and as such far more ubiquitous-militaria such as belt buckles, pieces of armour and brooches to understand the outfit of the Roman soldier. However, a great deal of pictorial evidence survives and there are some parts of the Roman Empire in which sizeable quantities of military textiles have been found. The fact that these have been so underexploited in the past is evidence of a certain dismissal hitherto of the significance of textiles in the story of the Roman army. Roman dress as a whole was a subject that until a little over a decade ago was woefully neglected by scholars, and many of the contributors to Wearing the Cloak were involved in the DressID EU project initiated by the Curt-Engelhorn-Stiftung at the Reiss-Engelhorn Museums in Mannheim, Germany, that formed part of what is now a growing field of Roman dress studies.

Rev. B. Rawson (ed.), Families in the Greek and Roman Worlds (Wiley-Blackwell Companion), Malden MA/Oxford 2010 in: Classical Review 62.1 (2012), 226-228

Rev. A.-C. Harders, Suavissima soror: Untersuchungen zu den Bruder-Schwester-Beziehungen in der römischen Republik, Munich 2008 in: Bonner Jahrbücher 208 (2008), 415-418

Rev. L. Bricault/M.J. Versluys/P.G.P. Meyboom (eds), Nile into Tiber: Egypt in the Roman World. Proceedings of the IIIrd International Conference of Isis Studies, Leiden, May 11-14, 2005, Leiden 2006 in: Journal of Roman Studies 98.1 (2008), 217-219

(Online publication November 2008)

Rev. R. Hingley, Globalizing Roman Culture, London/New York 2005

Classical Review, 2006

(Online publication October 24 2006)

Die norisch-pannonische Tracht: gab es sie wirklich?

innsbruck university press eBooks, 2013

Dress and Cultural Identity in the Rhine-Moselle Region of the Roman Empire

Ann-Cathrin Harders, Suavissima soror. Untersuchungen zu den Bruder-Schwester-Beziehungen in der römischen Republik

Bonner Jahrbücher, 2008

Toby F. Martin & Rosie Weetch (ed.). Dress and society: contributions from archaeology. 2017. Oxford & Philadelphia: Oxbow; 978-1-785-70315-7 £36

Antiquity, Dec 1, 2018

This volume arose out of a 2012 conference called ‘Rags and Riches: Dress and Dress Accessories i... more This volume arose out of a 2012 conference called ‘Rags and Riches: Dress and Dress Accessories in Social Context’ at the University of Reading, which was designed to bring together archaeologists and dress historians to discuss methodology surrounding the interpretation of dress evidence. The resulting volume, however, as the authors say (p. viii), is more narrowly defined. Although the authors’ Introduction discusses dress in general, all but one (Standley) of the eight papers in the volume focus on dress accessories, rather than clothing or any other aspect of appearance. This is both the strength and the weakness of the volume. Its strength lies in its stated aim of moving beyondwhat the editors justifiably describe as the limited typological focus of most traditional work on dress accessories in archaeology, to look at the broader meaning of such objects in terms of identity and social dynamics. This is a clear desideratum of the field and is to be heartily welcomed, as is the fact that the contributions to the volume genuinely live up to this aim. The claims made in the Introduction for the significance of dress, based especially on work that has been done on clothing and garments, are slightly at odds with the different nature of the jewellery and dress accessories under discussion. Similarly, those archaeologists working on dress iconography or textile studies, for example, might baulk at the assumption made by the editors in their Introduction that jewellery and similar items represent the totality of dress evidence in archaeology. Nonetheless, the contributors themselves do not make this assumption in their papers, and the wide chronological focus of the volume—from the Middle Bronze Age to the Early Modern period—coupled with the geographic focus on Britain (although two papers look at the Roman northwest more generally), affords the opportunity to compare methodologies of similar material across a meaningful spectrum.

The Investigation of Multiple Identities in the Middle East

Bulletin of the Council for British Research in the Levant, Nov 1, 2015

The Roman Villa: Definitions And Variations

Cambridge University Press eBooks, Jul 12, 2018

L. Bricault, M. J. Versluys and P. G. P. Meyboom (eds), Nile into Tiber. Egypt in the Roman World. Proceedings of the IIIrd International Conference of ISIS Studies, Leiden, May 11–14 2005 (Religions in the Graeco-Roman World 159). Leiden and Boston: Brill, 2007. Pp. xxv + 562, 156 illus. ISBN 90...

Journal of Roman Studies, Nov 1, 2008

Ethnicity in the Roman Northwest

It is impossible, within the confines of this chapter, to present a comprehensive account of ethn... more It is impossible, within the confines of this chapter, to present a comprehensive account of ethnic developments in the Roman northwest, nor can I do justice to the enormous amount of scholarly work that has focused on precisely this question, particularly in the past 20-30 years. What this chapter aims to do is to present, using selected case studies, a range of different scenarios that give some insight into the complex and varied nature of ethnicity and ethnogenesis in this region in the first-third centuries AD. As the most personal, and at the same time most public, form of material culture, dress stands somewhat apart as a particularly valuable source for ethnic identity, providing, of course, we have the sources for it. It is not a coincidence that Tacitus mentions the toga in his canonical inventory of Roman cultural traits. As Andrew Wallace-Hadrill has recently shown (2008:38-70), the toga played a similar membership-defining role in Roman consciousness as language did in the Greek, with one important difference: as the dress of the Roman citizen, the toga expressed more than any other element of culture the civil and legal nature of Roman identity. It is this characteristic that makes so hard to equate "being Roman" with anything amounting to ethnicity. However, it is also this characteristic which meant that practically anyone in the empire, regardless of their background, could become a Roman citizen, and as such, a "Roman" (see Farney, Chapter 29). The scenario Tacitus describes is not entirely imaginary: the toga was indeed worn in wide parts of the Roman northwest; but so was native dress. The very different nature of Roman identity to more localized group identities means that this is no paradox. Dress, in fact, reflects especially well the varying layers of cultural identity a person living in Rome's northwest provinces could and did have. As a result, in some of the case studies that follow, it will play a central role as a constant for identifying similarities and differences.

Die Anfänge der Romanisierungsforschung

Archaeopress eBooks, 2005

[About the book] 21 papers on contemporary perspectives of Romanization presented at a graduate s... more [About the book] 21 papers on contemporary perspectives of Romanization presented at a graduate seminar and colloquium on ‘Romanization and Self-Romanization’ held at the Friedrich-Schiller-Universitat Jena and the Siegmundsburg-Centre of Studies in 2004. The first section deals with theoretical models and sociological concepts; the second looks at archaeological and historical studies. The geographical scope covers the entire Empire from Lusitania to Asia Minor, from Hadrian’s Wall to the Sahara.

The “Third Way”: Treveran Women’s Dress and the “Gallic Ensemble”

American Journal of Archaeology, Apr 1, 2012

Roman funerary art in northern Gaul and the Rhineland reveals a variety of patterns in dress beha... more Roman funerary art in northern Gaul and the Rhineland reveals a variety of patterns in dress behavior. In some places, pre-Roman dress continued to appear in portraits until the late third century C.E., while many depictions show full Roman dress or combinations of Roman and indigenous garments. The most widespread and intriguing phenomenon observed in this study was a change in dress behavior as a result of Roman conquest; this change, however, did not involve the adoption of Roman dress but the development of a new, panregional native ensemble. Comparative work with anthropological studies of dress behavior in more recent contexts has enabled testing of hypotheses as to the meaning of this apparent “Third Way” in dress practice. The results reveal that the cultural consequences of integration into the Roman empire were more complicated than mere negotiations of place along a spectrum from native to Roman.

Rome, resistance to (cultural)

The Encyclopedia of Ancient History, Oct 26, 2012

The notion that the inhabitants of the Roman provinces may have expressed resistance to Rome by a... more The notion that the inhabitants of the Roman provinces may have expressed resistance to Rome by asserting aspects of their native culture was not unknown to early Roman historians such as Theodor Mommsen, who saw, for example, the dearth of Latin inscriptions in places like Paris as a manifestation of “silent resistance” to Roman culture.

Veiling in Pannonia

Oxbow Books, Aug 16, 2018

Families - †(B.) Rawson (ed.) A Companion to Families in the Greek and Roman Worlds. Pp. xx + 643, ills, maps. Malden, MA and Oxford: Wiley–Blackwell, 2010. Cased, £110, €132, US$199.95. ISBN: 978-1-4051-8767-1

Classical Review, Mar 9, 2012

The Toga and Roman Identity

This book traces the toga's history from its origins in the Etruscan garment known as the teb... more This book traces the toga's history from its origins in the Etruscan garment known as the tebenna, through its use as an everyday garment in the Republican period to its increasingly exclusive role as a symbol of privilege in the Principate and its decline in use in late antiquity. It aims to shift the scholarly view of the toga from one dominated by its role as a feature of Roman art to one in which it is seen as an everyday object and a highly charged symbol that in its various forms was central to the definition and negotiation of important gender, age and status boundaries, as well as political stances and ideologies. It discusses the toga's significance not just in Rome itself, but also in the provinces, where it reveals ideas about cultural identity, status and the role of the Roman state. The Toga and Roman Identity shows that, by looking in detail at the history of Rome's national garment, we can gain a better understanding of the complexities of Roman identity for different groups in society, as well as what it meant, at any given time, to be 'Roman'.

Dress in the middle Danube provinces: the garments, their origins and their distribution

Tall Zirāʿa, Jordanien: Landwirtschaftlicher Komplex, ländliche Villa im orientalischen Stil oder Kloseranlage? Die Ausgrabungen im Areal III

e-Forschungsberichte, 2015

Tall Zar‘ā, Jordanien: Landwirtschaftlicher Komplex, ländliche Villa im orientalischen Stil oder Klosteranlage? Die Ausgrabungen im Areal III: Die Arbeiten des Jahres 2014

Roman Empire, regional cultures

The Encyclopedia of Ancient History, Oct 26, 2012

As soon as Rome expanded beyond its city territory, it became a regional empire. Keywords: archae... more

Wearing the Cloak. Dressing the Soldier in Roman Times. Edited by M.-L. Nosch . Ancient Textiles Series 10. Oxbow Books, Oxford, 2012. Pp. vii + 144, illus. Price: £25.00. isbn 978 1 84217 437 1

Britannia, Jun 28, 2013

What did the Roman soldier wear under his armour? Did he follow clothing fashions? How did he pre... more What did the Roman soldier wear under his armour? Did he follow clothing fashions? How did he present himself in camp and on the street? Answers to such questions will not be found in the textbooks on Roman army equipment. There has been nothing comprehensive on military clothing since Sander's publication in 1963 (Die Kleidung des Römischen Soldaten, Historia 13)and little useful since The Excavations at Dura-Europos published in 2004 (James), until Sumner's Roman Military Dress (2009), and now this volume.

Das norische Frauengewand

Schnell und Steiner eBooks, Apr 15, 2013

[About the book] Welche Bedeutung hat Kleidung im gesellschaftlichen Gefuge jener Epoche? Soziale... more [About the book] Welche Bedeutung hat Kleidung im gesellschaftlichen Gefuge jener Epoche? Sozialer Rang, Beruf, Geschlecht und Alter sind an der Kleidung ebenso ablesbar wie die wie ethnische Zugehorigkeit. Kleidung offenbart zugleich den Wandel in den Moden, die Korrelation zwischen Tradition und Innovation, lokale und politische Verortungen. Wie gestaltete sich gegenseitiger Einfluss zwischen Volkern am Rande des Romischen Reiches und dem Zentrum? Gegenstand des Begleitbandes zur Ausstellung ist der »Dresscode« in der Zeit der romischen Kaiser. Uberraschende Ergebnisse erbringen - neben der Untersuchung von Skulpturen, Wandmalereien, Mosaiken, und Schriftquellen - neue naturwissenschaftliche Analysemethoden, angewandt auf die Textilien selbst. Der Facettenreichtum des Bandes ist einem internationalen Team von Autoren zu verdanken, die das Thema multidisziplinar aufbereiten und die archaologischen Zeugnisse und Bilder wie die Quellentexte zum Sprechen bringen.