Conference Presentations by Phoebe Apeagyei
Designers and product developers are currently being called upon to take greater responsibility f... more Designers and product developers are currently being called upon to take greater responsibility for the problems presented by the inefficient and unsustainable systems used to create new fashion items. The culture of transience, newness and perceived obsolescence, so prevalent in the fashion industry, has led to growing over-consumption and consequentially high volumes of waste. In fact, clothing is often disposed of with as much as 70% of its potential lifetime still left.
Upcycling seeks to provide a transitional solution to the textile waste problem, by optimising the lifetime of discarded products from an inefficient system, as technology moves to develop more sustainable approaches. As a design based waste solution, upcycled fashion production utilises textile waste to create products with a higher retail value than traditionally recycled goods.
This paper aims to analyse the innovative ways in which UK based upcycling designers are recreating style and value from discarded materials, and the benefits of this process. The author’s own design process, as a UK based upcycling designer, was documented and examined. Challenges and solutions to upcycled production were then further investigated through structured interviews and observational field trips with leading UK based upcycling practitioners.
The consumer perspective was addressed through a series of focus groups interviews, used to gain insights on attitudes, consumption behaviour, taste and trends. This qualitative data was collated from a specific cohort of participants, chosen through market research information. The information from all aspects of this research was then analysed to identify the main benefits and considerations for designing upcycled fashion.
These factors were then used to create a conceptual upcycling model for the design and large-scale manufacturing of upcycled fashion products, including effective marketing strategies. This model was then critically analysed in comparison to current design and manufacturing processes and forms a foundation for further research and testing.
The practical implications of this research include the development of an innovative, UK based sustainable design and production approach, which directly tackles the issue of textile waste and offers scope for further employment and training within the industry. Social implications include recommendations on how best to engage with the public on environmental issues in the apparel industry, and the wider implications of these issues.
Upcycling also supports sustainable economic localisation, utilising locally sourced materials, work-force and skills, plus adding to the development of local communities through engagement in activities related to sustainable consumption, skill sharing and education.
Additional benefits to local communities and groups also occur when upcycling businesses support social and environmental projects through funding and resources, and provide employment for disadvantaged individuals through worker’s co-operatives and initiatives.
Key words
Upcycling; Textile Waste; Design; Production; Sustainability; Social; Economic; Environment
Papers by Phoebe Apeagyei
International Journal of Digital Content Technology and its Applications, 2010
Complications with garment sizing and poor fit inconvenience many consumers who become dissatisfi... more Complications with garment sizing and poor fit inconvenience many consumers who become dissatisfied with such provision on the high street. It is evident that human measurement and classification of the human body based on size and shape are precedent to accurate clothing fit and therefore fundamental to production and consumption. With advancement in technology, automated 3D body scanners designed to capture the shape and size of a human body in seconds and further produce its true-to-scale 3D body model have been developed. The use of data generated is extensive; and include anthropometric dimensions and morphology for the creation of avatars and mannequins. This technology is currently viewed as the frontier in solving fit problems, for instance by generating accurate data for the development of size charts, enabling a pragmatic approach to the offer of mass customisation and also facilitating virtual model fit trials that enhance online clothing shopping experiences. Consumers have become savvier than ever and as the demand for well-fitted garments is increasing, 3D body scanning technology is being viewed as a significant bridge between craftsmanship and computer-aided design technologies. Currently being explored by academic research and not as yet widely implemented across retail sectors, it is expected to facilitate consumer satisfaction and reduce commercial waste due to 'ill-fit' returns. There is therefore a vital need to authenticate procedures and establish systems for practice. This paper seeks to assess the application of one such technology to human measurement for clothing provision and tests procedures for its implementation. The methodology presents a case study approach involving the use of one such stateof-the-art technology in the acquisition of measurement data at a metropolitan university in the UK, and advises on the application of the 3D body scanner in research and sampling activities.
Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 2007
Purpose – The paper seeks to evaluate and present the usability of one pattern customising techno... more Purpose – The paper seeks to evaluate and present the usability of one pattern customising technology in the achievement and testing of garment fit. Design/methodology/approach – This study focuses on the use of 3D technology in the testing of garment fit. It examines the usability of one pattern customising technology in the achievement and testing of fit and presents primary
International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 2008
Induced by persuasive social settings, the dilemma of what is considered as an ideal size, shape ... more Induced by persuasive social settings, the dilemma of what is considered as an ideal size, shape and body image continue to impact decisions consumers make regarding clothing selection and fashion. Body image has been identified as crucial to clothing provision and fashion consumption (Sproles and Burns 1994). In presenting methodological considerations in researching body cathexis for fashion products, Apeagyei et
Proceedings of the 5th International Conference on 3D Body Scanning Technologies, Lugano, Switzerland, 21-22 October 2014, 2014
Proceedings of the 5th International Conference on 3D Body Scanning Technologies, Lugano, Switzerland, 21-22 October 2014, 2014
Proceedings of the 2nd International Conference on 3D Body Scanning Technologies, Lugano, Switzerland, 25-26 October 2011, 2011
Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 2007
Design/methodology/approach This study presents instrumental activities and strategies for cond... more Design/methodology/approach This study presents instrumental activities and strategies for conducting and implementing focus groups for investigating body cathexis and related body measurements for fashion products. Five homogenous groups of 30 females aged 19-44 ...
International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 2013
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Conference Presentations by Phoebe Apeagyei
Upcycling seeks to provide a transitional solution to the textile waste problem, by optimising the lifetime of discarded products from an inefficient system, as technology moves to develop more sustainable approaches. As a design based waste solution, upcycled fashion production utilises textile waste to create products with a higher retail value than traditionally recycled goods.
This paper aims to analyse the innovative ways in which UK based upcycling designers are recreating style and value from discarded materials, and the benefits of this process. The author’s own design process, as a UK based upcycling designer, was documented and examined. Challenges and solutions to upcycled production were then further investigated through structured interviews and observational field trips with leading UK based upcycling practitioners.
The consumer perspective was addressed through a series of focus groups interviews, used to gain insights on attitudes, consumption behaviour, taste and trends. This qualitative data was collated from a specific cohort of participants, chosen through market research information. The information from all aspects of this research was then analysed to identify the main benefits and considerations for designing upcycled fashion.
These factors were then used to create a conceptual upcycling model for the design and large-scale manufacturing of upcycled fashion products, including effective marketing strategies. This model was then critically analysed in comparison to current design and manufacturing processes and forms a foundation for further research and testing.
The practical implications of this research include the development of an innovative, UK based sustainable design and production approach, which directly tackles the issue of textile waste and offers scope for further employment and training within the industry. Social implications include recommendations on how best to engage with the public on environmental issues in the apparel industry, and the wider implications of these issues.
Upcycling also supports sustainable economic localisation, utilising locally sourced materials, work-force and skills, plus adding to the development of local communities through engagement in activities related to sustainable consumption, skill sharing and education.
Additional benefits to local communities and groups also occur when upcycling businesses support social and environmental projects through funding and resources, and provide employment for disadvantaged individuals through worker’s co-operatives and initiatives.
Key words
Upcycling; Textile Waste; Design; Production; Sustainability; Social; Economic; Environment
Papers by Phoebe Apeagyei
Upcycling seeks to provide a transitional solution to the textile waste problem, by optimising the lifetime of discarded products from an inefficient system, as technology moves to develop more sustainable approaches. As a design based waste solution, upcycled fashion production utilises textile waste to create products with a higher retail value than traditionally recycled goods.
This paper aims to analyse the innovative ways in which UK based upcycling designers are recreating style and value from discarded materials, and the benefits of this process. The author’s own design process, as a UK based upcycling designer, was documented and examined. Challenges and solutions to upcycled production were then further investigated through structured interviews and observational field trips with leading UK based upcycling practitioners.
The consumer perspective was addressed through a series of focus groups interviews, used to gain insights on attitudes, consumption behaviour, taste and trends. This qualitative data was collated from a specific cohort of participants, chosen through market research information. The information from all aspects of this research was then analysed to identify the main benefits and considerations for designing upcycled fashion.
These factors were then used to create a conceptual upcycling model for the design and large-scale manufacturing of upcycled fashion products, including effective marketing strategies. This model was then critically analysed in comparison to current design and manufacturing processes and forms a foundation for further research and testing.
The practical implications of this research include the development of an innovative, UK based sustainable design and production approach, which directly tackles the issue of textile waste and offers scope for further employment and training within the industry. Social implications include recommendations on how best to engage with the public on environmental issues in the apparel industry, and the wider implications of these issues.
Upcycling also supports sustainable economic localisation, utilising locally sourced materials, work-force and skills, plus adding to the development of local communities through engagement in activities related to sustainable consumption, skill sharing and education.
Additional benefits to local communities and groups also occur when upcycling businesses support social and environmental projects through funding and resources, and provide employment for disadvantaged individuals through worker’s co-operatives and initiatives.
Key words
Upcycling; Textile Waste; Design; Production; Sustainability; Social; Economic; Environment