Manchester Metropolitan University
Clothing Design & Technology
Designers and product developers are currently being called upon to take greater responsibility for the problems presented by the inefficient and unsustainable systems used to create new fashion items. The culture of transience, newness... more
Designers and product developers are currently being called upon to take greater responsibility for the problems presented by the inefficient and unsustainable systems used to create new fashion items. The culture of transience, newness and perceived obsolescence, so prevalent in the fashion industry, has led to growing over-consumption and consequentially high volumes of waste. In fact, clothing is often disposed of with as much as 70% of its potential lifetime still left.
Upcycling seeks to provide a transitional solution to the textile waste problem, by optimising the lifetime of discarded products from an inefficient system, as technology moves to develop more sustainable approaches. As a design based waste solution, upcycled fashion production utilises textile waste to create products with a higher retail value than traditionally recycled goods.
This paper aims to analyse the innovative ways in which UK based upcycling designers are recreating style and value from discarded materials, and the benefits of this process. The author’s own design process, as a UK based upcycling designer, was documented and examined. Challenges and solutions to upcycled production were then further investigated through structured interviews and observational field trips with leading UK based upcycling practitioners.
The consumer perspective was addressed through a series of focus groups interviews, used to gain insights on attitudes, consumption behaviour, taste and trends. This qualitative data was collated from a specific cohort of participants, chosen through market research information. The information from all aspects of this research was then analysed to identify the main benefits and considerations for designing upcycled fashion.
These factors were then used to create a conceptual upcycling model for the design and large-scale manufacturing of upcycled fashion products, including effective marketing strategies. This model was then critically analysed in comparison to current design and manufacturing processes and forms a foundation for further research and testing.
The practical implications of this research include the development of an innovative, UK based sustainable design and production approach, which directly tackles the issue of textile waste and offers scope for further employment and training within the industry. Social implications include recommendations on how best to engage with the public on environmental issues in the apparel industry, and the wider implications of these issues.
Upcycling also supports sustainable economic localisation, utilising locally sourced materials, work-force and skills, plus adding to the development of local communities through engagement in activities related to sustainable consumption, skill sharing and education.
Additional benefits to local communities and groups also occur when upcycling businesses support social and environmental projects through funding and resources, and provide employment for disadvantaged individuals through worker’s co-operatives and initiatives.
Key words
Upcycling; Textile Waste; Design; Production; Sustainability; Social; Economic; Environment
Upcycling seeks to provide a transitional solution to the textile waste problem, by optimising the lifetime of discarded products from an inefficient system, as technology moves to develop more sustainable approaches. As a design based waste solution, upcycled fashion production utilises textile waste to create products with a higher retail value than traditionally recycled goods.
This paper aims to analyse the innovative ways in which UK based upcycling designers are recreating style and value from discarded materials, and the benefits of this process. The author’s own design process, as a UK based upcycling designer, was documented and examined. Challenges and solutions to upcycled production were then further investigated through structured interviews and observational field trips with leading UK based upcycling practitioners.
The consumer perspective was addressed through a series of focus groups interviews, used to gain insights on attitudes, consumption behaviour, taste and trends. This qualitative data was collated from a specific cohort of participants, chosen through market research information. The information from all aspects of this research was then analysed to identify the main benefits and considerations for designing upcycled fashion.
These factors were then used to create a conceptual upcycling model for the design and large-scale manufacturing of upcycled fashion products, including effective marketing strategies. This model was then critically analysed in comparison to current design and manufacturing processes and forms a foundation for further research and testing.
The practical implications of this research include the development of an innovative, UK based sustainable design and production approach, which directly tackles the issue of textile waste and offers scope for further employment and training within the industry. Social implications include recommendations on how best to engage with the public on environmental issues in the apparel industry, and the wider implications of these issues.
Upcycling also supports sustainable economic localisation, utilising locally sourced materials, work-force and skills, plus adding to the development of local communities through engagement in activities related to sustainable consumption, skill sharing and education.
Additional benefits to local communities and groups also occur when upcycling businesses support social and environmental projects through funding and resources, and provide employment for disadvantaged individuals through worker’s co-operatives and initiatives.
Key words
Upcycling; Textile Waste; Design; Production; Sustainability; Social; Economic; Environment
- by Sara Han and +2
- •
- Economics, Design, Fashion design, Social Sciences
Designers and product developers are taking greater responsibility for the problems presented by the inefficient and unsustainable systems used to create new fashion items. The culture of transience, newness and perceived obsolescence, so... more
Designers and product developers are taking greater responsibility for the problems presented by the inefficient and unsustainable systems used to create new fashion items. The culture of transience, newness and perceived obsolescence, so prevalent in the fashion industry, has led to growing over-consumption and consequentially high volumes of waste. Clothing is often disposed of with as much as 70% of its potential lifetime still left.
Upcycling seeks to provide a transitional solution to the textile waste problem, by optimising the lifetimes of discarded products from an inefficient system, as technology moves to develop more sustainable approaches. As a design based waste solution, upcycled fashion production utilises textile waste to create products with a higher retail value than traditionally recycled goods.
This paper aims to analyse the innovative ways in which UK based upcycling designers are recreating style and value from discarded materials, and the benefits of this process. The author’s own design process, as a UK based upcycling designer, was documented and examined. Challenges and solutions to upcycled production were then further investigated through structured interviews and observational field trips with leading UK based upcycling practitioners.
The practical implications of this research include the development of an innovative, UK based sustainable design and production approach, which directly tackles the issue of textile waste and offers scope for further employment and training within the industry. Social implications include recommendations on how best to engage with the public on environmental issues in the apparel industry, and the wider implications of these issues.
Upcycling seeks to provide a transitional solution to the textile waste problem, by optimising the lifetimes of discarded products from an inefficient system, as technology moves to develop more sustainable approaches. As a design based waste solution, upcycled fashion production utilises textile waste to create products with a higher retail value than traditionally recycled goods.
This paper aims to analyse the innovative ways in which UK based upcycling designers are recreating style and value from discarded materials, and the benefits of this process. The author’s own design process, as a UK based upcycling designer, was documented and examined. Challenges and solutions to upcycled production were then further investigated through structured interviews and observational field trips with leading UK based upcycling practitioners.
The practical implications of this research include the development of an innovative, UK based sustainable design and production approach, which directly tackles the issue of textile waste and offers scope for further employment and training within the industry. Social implications include recommendations on how best to engage with the public on environmental issues in the apparel industry, and the wider implications of these issues.
- by David Tyler and +1
- •
- Design, Fashion design, Textiles, Production
Executive summary This report builds on previous work on textile recycling commissioned by WRAP and Defra. It explores whether technology can be used to increase the fraction of discarded clothing and household textiles that are... more
Executive summary
This report builds on previous work on textile recycling commissioned by WRAP and Defra. It explores whether technology can be used to increase the fraction of discarded clothing and household textiles that are reprocessed in a financially viable way. A technical and economic assessment identified four candidates:
ƒÞ manual sorting, the incumbent method;
ƒÞ fourier transform infra-red spectroscopy (FTIR);
ƒÞ radio frequency identification (RFID) tags; and
ƒÞ 2D bar codes.
The current method is manual sorting. It operates at a small margin and it is only possible to sort by parameters that humans can readily determine. These do not necessarily match high value markets for recyclates.
FTIR is potentially able to determine the colour and fibre content of textiles and as a result the selected recyclate outputs should be able to command slightly higher prices. Further work is needed to develop the technology so that it functions in this industrial environment.
Every textile item could potentially have a unique RFID tag applied to it. In theory this could permit dynamic sorting at low cost on a wide range of criteria, in response to market demand, and thereby achieve a high margin for recyclates. However, RFID tags that can survive the use phase of the textile, particularly the laundry cycle, do not yet exist at a sufficiently low price and in a suitable form for this application. Furthermore, tag readers are not yet able to determine the physical location of an individual tag in a jumble, which is an essential requirement to instruct automated sorting machinery.
A 2D bar code label could be used to inform the reprocessor how to sort an item, achieving the same benefits as RFID tags. The 2D bar code label must be manually presented to a reader, meaning the condition and quality of the textile can be ascertained at the same time.
There is an important distinction between these options in that, for manual sorting and FTIR identification, the reprocessor incurs the capital and operational expense but receives all the remuneration. For RFID tags and 2D bar codes the manufacturer/retailer incurs the cost of tag or label management, while the benefits accrue mostly to the reprocessor.
The technology that is potentially closest to helping achieve a circular economy in textiles is 2D bar codes:
ƒÞ The modest cost of making and attaching the bar code label would fall to retailers but, in return, they would benefit from a new marketing channel to customers and corporate social responsibility benefits.
ƒÞ As consumers can read the 2D bar codes with a smart phone App, the environmental information provided could help with new approaches to take-back and recycling.
ƒÞ Reprocessors can also read 2D bar codes to sort accurately and reliably by new criteria, using a technology that can be integrated into their existing manual sorting process. This characteristic will be an advantage during the long interim phase when only a limited proportion of textiles carry 2D bar codes.
ƒÞ Further work is first required to define the bar code format and identify a label material that remains machine readable at end of life.
This report builds on previous work on textile recycling commissioned by WRAP and Defra. It explores whether technology can be used to increase the fraction of discarded clothing and household textiles that are reprocessed in a financially viable way. A technical and economic assessment identified four candidates:
ƒÞ manual sorting, the incumbent method;
ƒÞ fourier transform infra-red spectroscopy (FTIR);
ƒÞ radio frequency identification (RFID) tags; and
ƒÞ 2D bar codes.
The current method is manual sorting. It operates at a small margin and it is only possible to sort by parameters that humans can readily determine. These do not necessarily match high value markets for recyclates.
FTIR is potentially able to determine the colour and fibre content of textiles and as a result the selected recyclate outputs should be able to command slightly higher prices. Further work is needed to develop the technology so that it functions in this industrial environment.
Every textile item could potentially have a unique RFID tag applied to it. In theory this could permit dynamic sorting at low cost on a wide range of criteria, in response to market demand, and thereby achieve a high margin for recyclates. However, RFID tags that can survive the use phase of the textile, particularly the laundry cycle, do not yet exist at a sufficiently low price and in a suitable form for this application. Furthermore, tag readers are not yet able to determine the physical location of an individual tag in a jumble, which is an essential requirement to instruct automated sorting machinery.
A 2D bar code label could be used to inform the reprocessor how to sort an item, achieving the same benefits as RFID tags. The 2D bar code label must be manually presented to a reader, meaning the condition and quality of the textile can be ascertained at the same time.
There is an important distinction between these options in that, for manual sorting and FTIR identification, the reprocessor incurs the capital and operational expense but receives all the remuneration. For RFID tags and 2D bar codes the manufacturer/retailer incurs the cost of tag or label management, while the benefits accrue mostly to the reprocessor.
The technology that is potentially closest to helping achieve a circular economy in textiles is 2D bar codes:
ƒÞ The modest cost of making and attaching the bar code label would fall to retailers but, in return, they would benefit from a new marketing channel to customers and corporate social responsibility benefits.
ƒÞ As consumers can read the 2D bar codes with a smart phone App, the environmental information provided could help with new approaches to take-back and recycling.
ƒÞ Reprocessors can also read 2D bar codes to sort accurately and reliably by new criteria, using a technology that can be integrated into their existing manual sorting process. This characteristic will be an advantage during the long interim phase when only a limited proportion of textiles carry 2D bar codes.
ƒÞ Further work is first required to define the bar code format and identify a label material that remains machine readable at end of life.
A recent EU-funded Horizon 2020 project is looking at the possibility of creating a circular economy concept for the textile and chemical industries. Valérie Julie Boiten, with the Prospex Institute, together with Sara Li-Chou Han, a... more
A recent EU-funded Horizon 2020
project is looking at the possibility
of creating a circular economy
concept for the textile and chemical
industries. Valérie Julie Boiten,
with the Prospex Institute, together
with Sara Li-Chou Han, a research
associate at Manchester Metropolitan
University, and David Tyler, a reader
in manufacturing technologies and
systems at Manchester Metropolitan
University, give us an overview of
the challenges and the aims for the
project.
project is looking at the possibility
of creating a circular economy
concept for the textile and chemical
industries. Valérie Julie Boiten,
with the Prospex Institute, together
with Sara Li-Chou Han, a research
associate at Manchester Metropolitan
University, and David Tyler, a reader
in manufacturing technologies and
systems at Manchester Metropolitan
University, give us an overview of
the challenges and the aims for the
project.
- by Sara Han and +2
- •
- Textiles, Recycling, Business Models, Circular Economy
A woman shops at a mitumba (Swahili for "secondhand") market in Nairobi, Kenya. Middlemen purchase bales of clothing at a set price to resell at the mitumba market. Sometimes the bales contain prize garments, other times less desirable... more
A woman shops at a mitumba (Swahili for "secondhand") market in Nairobi, Kenya. Middlemen purchase bales of clothing at a set price to resell at the mitumba market. Sometimes the bales contain prize garments, other times less desirable items, and the clothing may be sold by the piece or by weight. People often buy large amounts of clothing to resell yet again in smaller markets outside the city.