Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 2020
PurposeDespite the rapid adoption of smartphones among digital fashion consumers, their attitude ... more PurposeDespite the rapid adoption of smartphones among digital fashion consumers, their attitude to retailers' mobile apps and websites is one of increasing dissatisfaction. This suggests that understanding how mobile consumers use smartphones for fashion shopping is important in developing digital shopping platforms that fulfil consumer' expectations.Design/methodology/approachFor this research, mobile eye-tracking technology was employed in order to develop unique shopping journeys for 30 consumers, using fashion retailers' websites on smartphones, documenting their differences and similarities in browsing and purchasing behaviour.FindingsBased on scan path visualisations and observed shopping experiences, three prominent mobile shopping journeys and shopper types were identified: “directed by retailer's website”, “efficient self-selected journey” and “challenging shopper”. These prominent behaviour patterns were used to characterise mixed cluster behaviours; three...
The MTw Awinda is the second generation wireless inertial-magnetic motion tracker by Xsens. The M... more The MTw Awinda is the second generation wireless inertial-magnetic motion tracker by Xsens. The MTw enables real-time 3D kinematic applications with multiple motion trackers by providing highly accurate orientation through an unobtrusive setup. This whitepaper presents the basic working principles and architecture of the Xsens MTw Awinda system. Furthermore, the system performance is assessed and key outcomes of two reallife experiments using the Xsens MTw Awinda system are given. In the first experiment the performance during arm movements related to sports and gaming is evaluated, while the second experiment focuses on data acquired during walking and running, including exposure to magnetic distortions for extended periods of time. The results show that MTw Awinda is a flexible, easyto-use, and reliable tool for capturing human motion in a large variety of applications, even in challenging environments.
We present the results of a recent review of fibre identification technologies for apparel recycl... more We present the results of a recent review of fibre identification technologies for apparel recycling. The review focuses on tagging and labelling approaches that can help apparel recyclers identify the material composition of the recycling grades of apparel, in preparation for the introduction of more material-specific recycling technologies. We conclude that the adoption of the 2D barcode linked to an external database will both contain sufficient bits to encode useful information, and that such an approach could also give consumer (and hence brand) benefits that would help make the business case for their introduction.
To develop the role of designers in the context of the circular economy, this paper investigated ... more To develop the role of designers in the context of the circular economy, this paper investigated the concept of whole systems thinking in design practice. Designers’ practices were examined not just from the product orientated perspective, but by taking a more holistic systems thinking approach. This addressed a combination of the market, consumers and communication, plus design and production processes, supply chain and end-of-life considerations. The paper presents individual case studies of environmentally motivated fashion design that displayed differing levels of positive impact based on their breadth of design activity, and whether a wider systems-based design approach was successfully incorporated. The methodology employed a review of literature relating to circular systems and design approaches, and combined this with primary data from semi-structured interviews. Interview data from ethical fashion brands and designers identified barriers to the wider adoption of circular ec...
All animals have a protective covering of skin, generally supplemented by an additional layer of ... more All animals have a protective covering of skin, generally supplemented by an additional layer of fur, scales, feathers or body armour. Consequently, we are surrounded by instructive models of protection-applicable to a great variety of environments and hazardous events. This chapter is particularly concerned with protection from injury resulting from impacts to the human body. The goal is the development of apparel (an additional layer designed for humans) that reduces risks of injury whilst maintaining usability and comfort for wearers. Understanding the mechanisms relevant to protection provides a starting-point for designing garments that absorb and diffuse the energies of impacts. However, a user-centred design approach must recognise that impact protection is just one of many factors to be considered during product development.
Apart from the many social and health problems it has caused, the COVID-19 pandemic has had a sev... more Apart from the many social and health problems it has caused, the COVID-19 pandemic has had a severe impact on most sectors of the economy worldwide. One of the areas where such impact is noticeable is the textile, apparel, and fashion (TAF) industry. The lockdowns and limited access to retailer outlets resulted in a considerable drop in consumption, creating problems related to the excess of stock, the decrease of sales, and the disposal of non-used items. This paper outlines the implications of the COVID-19 on the TAF sectors and European retailers. It analyzes how the current supply chains exacerbated stock control problems, and it reports on the changes in consumption during the pandemic. The worldwide restrictive measures implemented to cope with the COVID-19 pandemic were responsible for significant profit losses. Also, the decrease in consumption, caused by several geographically wide lockdowns, prompted a subsequent reduction in orders and sales, resulting in a significant n...
A rock cycle is proposed, in which geological processes of erosion, deposition and metamorphism a... more A rock cycle is proposed, in which geological processes of erosion, deposition and metamorphism are primarily controlled by vertical movements of crustal blocks. This rock cycle is considered to provide a framework for the scientific study of catastrophic episodes of Earth history.
TECTONIC CONTROLS ON SEDIMENTATION IN ROCKS FROM THE JURASSIC SERIES (YORKSHIRE, ENGLAND) DAVID J... more TECTONIC CONTROLS ON SEDIMENTATION IN ROCKS FROM THE JURASSIC SERIES (YORKSHIRE, ENGLAND) DAVID J. TYLER, PhD, MSc, BSc. c/o P.O. Box 22, Rugby, Warwickshire, CV22 7SY, England. One of the classic areas of British geology is reexamined using perspectives provided by the tectonicallycontrolled rock cycle and the Biblical record of the Flood. Field evidences are described which are highly suggestive of inter-related catastrophic processes and short time intervals. The conventional lengthy geologic timescales claimed for these rocks are challenged. The observations have a bearing on discussions relating to the position of the Flood/post-Flood boundary.
The highly motivated ethical consumer has been under investigation since the mid 1970’s, defined ... more The highly motivated ethical consumer has been under investigation since the mid 1970’s, defined as a distinct consumer segment most notably since the early 1990s and been relatively well documented in terms of behaviours, values, decision making, attitudes and motivation. Despite the recent mainstreaming of a broad range of ethical products and a steady increase in media presentation of ethical issues, the perceptions of the mainstream consumer remain relatively under researched. This paper reports upon the exploratory investigation undertaken to examine the nature of the ethical fashion message presented in popular print media. The aim of this first phase of study was to gain insight into the extent to which, the terms used in the communication of ethical fashion are understood by female consumers who are representative of the wider British public. A qualitative methodology was carried out using a grounded theory approach via the methods of qualitative content analysis, Q Method, ...
International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 2021
The impact of COVID-19 on shopping behaviour preferences has resulted in the accelerated adoption... more The impact of COVID-19 on shopping behaviour preferences has resulted in the accelerated adoption of e-commerce and increased traffic of first-time e-commerce shoppers worldwide. This study compared experienced versus inexperienced mobile consumers' shopping experiences on smartphones. A mixed-methods research, combining mobile eye-tracking technology and interviews, was employed. The comparison of experienced and inexperienced users showed significant differences in regards to time spent on various stages of the shopping journey, used elements of the website and problem areas encountered. Inexperienced users have higher expectations towards fashion retailer's website. Mobile consumers' prior experience using retailers' digital shopping platform is a key parameter in user experience research and participants' recruitment. The findings of this research have managerial and methodological implications and can be used in understanding the behaviour differences between current and potential customers, and in developing personalised shopping experiences on smartphones by feeding these into retailers' digital analytics database and marketing strategy.
Industry for its generous support. Thirteen major milestones were identified at the outset and th... more Industry for its generous support. Thirteen major milestones were identified at the outset and this report documents the achievements of the project team. The three companies came together following research into the Rochdale textile and clothing sectors which was carried out in 2001 for the then Business Link Rochdale by Manchester Metropolitan University. This research looked at ways in which the sector could be strengthened. Upon reviewing the research findings, it became apparent that 3 companies had, between them, the core skills for developing a masscustomisation route for interior textiles.
The word "industry" conjures up images of large rooms filled with machinery, handling equipment a... more The word "industry" conjures up images of large rooms filled with machinery, handling equipment and operators. The "apparel industry" is regarded as the engine for producing the garments that are eventually displayed in the High Street for us to purchase.
The household textiles market is moving quickly towards fashion products that complement apparel.... more The household textiles market is moving quickly towards fashion products that complement apparel. This creates many issues for traditional retailers who are used to product ranges with longer life cycles. The focus of the applied research reported in this paper concerns the potential of companies to transform their approach to fashion with the aid of textile digital printing to produce mass customized products. A single case study methodology has been adopted, based on a project part-funded by the UK Department of Trade and Industry. At the outset of the research, four technical problems were identified and three marketing challenges. The technical problems were concerned with color management, reduction in the use of black, the achievement of commercial standards of performance for printed textiles, and the standardization of processing conditions for textile substrates. The nature of the technical problems will be presented, together with the solutions that have been found. The market challenges were to enable three collaborating companies to operate in "virtual" mode, to identify suitable products, and to identify viable ways of getting access to consumers. Progress has been made in each of these areas, but the major issue concerns the interface with consumers. Manufacturers do not have an infrastructure giving access to markets, nor do they have the retailing expertise. At the same time, retail organizations have systems that involve holding stock items: physical products to sell. The mass customization concept is a paradigm shift for such organizations. At the same time, consumers easily confound mass customization with "made to measure". Nevertheless, the collaborating companies have found routes for digitally printed products via high street retailers and via internet sales. Spin-off companies have been formed and jobs have been created.
Abstract: Developments in clothing production technologies have been rapid and significant in two... more Abstract: Developments in clothing production technologies have been rapid and significant in two areas. The first concerns sew-free technologies, primarily adhesive bonding of seams. The technology innovations have affected many markets, but primarily lingerie and sportswear. This chapter considers the drivers for adoption of these technologies and the machinery used to achieve welded seams. The other area concerns three-dimensional (3D) body scanning and the potential for integrating scan data with 3D CAD and work on the fit of garments. The chapter provides an overview of recent literature and a critical discussion of the issues emerging from these technologies.
Functional electrical stimulation (FES) has been used to revitalise the muscles of people sufferi... more Functional electrical stimulation (FES) has been used to revitalise the muscles of people suffering from various kinds of injury. However, when human skin is incorporated into electrical circuits, it must not be treated as a passive component. Skin’s electrical properties must be known when electrodes deliver electrical stimulation to the body, whether by hydrogel electrodes or by electrodes embedded in apparel. Failure to address this issue increases the risk of skin burns due to too high current through the skin/electrode interface. We have demonstrated that there is a relationship between electrode size and measured voltage. The rise of voltage with a reduction of electrode size can be explained by the diminution of the skin contact area with resulting higher skin/electrode impedances. Thus, finding an electrical skin model that represents the behaviour of human skin is important for circuit design and the product development process.
Functional electrical stimulation is commonly used as a rehabilitation therapy to support the mov... more Functional electrical stimulation is commonly used as a rehabilitation therapy to support the movement of individuals who have suffered traumatic spinal cord injury. Recently, there has been a focused interest on the development of textile electrodes, as they pose many benefits over traditional electrodes. This study presents design considerations and the feasibility of a wearable FES garment sleeve using flexible and extensible screen-printed electrodes.
Designers and product developers are taking greater responsibility for the problems presented by ... more Designers and product developers are taking greater responsibility for the problems presented by the inefficient and unsustainable systems used to create new fashion items. The culture of transience, newness and perceived obsolescence, so prevalent in the fashion industry, has led to growing over-consumption and consequentially high volumes of waste. Clothing is often disposed of with as much as 70% of its potential lifetime still left. Upcycling seeks to provide a transitional solution to the textile waste problem, by optimising the lifetimes of discarded products from an inefficient system, as technology moves to develop more sustainable approaches. As a design based waste solution, upcycled fashion production utilises textile waste to create products with a higher retail value than traditionally recycled goods. This paper aims to analyse the innovative ways in which UK based upcycling designers are recreating style and value from discarded materials, and the benefits of this proc...
Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 2020
PurposeDespite the rapid adoption of smartphones among digital fashion consumers, their attitude ... more PurposeDespite the rapid adoption of smartphones among digital fashion consumers, their attitude to retailers' mobile apps and websites is one of increasing dissatisfaction. This suggests that understanding how mobile consumers use smartphones for fashion shopping is important in developing digital shopping platforms that fulfil consumer' expectations.Design/methodology/approachFor this research, mobile eye-tracking technology was employed in order to develop unique shopping journeys for 30 consumers, using fashion retailers' websites on smartphones, documenting their differences and similarities in browsing and purchasing behaviour.FindingsBased on scan path visualisations and observed shopping experiences, three prominent mobile shopping journeys and shopper types were identified: “directed by retailer's website”, “efficient self-selected journey” and “challenging shopper”. These prominent behaviour patterns were used to characterise mixed cluster behaviours; three...
The MTw Awinda is the second generation wireless inertial-magnetic motion tracker by Xsens. The M... more The MTw Awinda is the second generation wireless inertial-magnetic motion tracker by Xsens. The MTw enables real-time 3D kinematic applications with multiple motion trackers by providing highly accurate orientation through an unobtrusive setup. This whitepaper presents the basic working principles and architecture of the Xsens MTw Awinda system. Furthermore, the system performance is assessed and key outcomes of two reallife experiments using the Xsens MTw Awinda system are given. In the first experiment the performance during arm movements related to sports and gaming is evaluated, while the second experiment focuses on data acquired during walking and running, including exposure to magnetic distortions for extended periods of time. The results show that MTw Awinda is a flexible, easyto-use, and reliable tool for capturing human motion in a large variety of applications, even in challenging environments.
We present the results of a recent review of fibre identification technologies for apparel recycl... more We present the results of a recent review of fibre identification technologies for apparel recycling. The review focuses on tagging and labelling approaches that can help apparel recyclers identify the material composition of the recycling grades of apparel, in preparation for the introduction of more material-specific recycling technologies. We conclude that the adoption of the 2D barcode linked to an external database will both contain sufficient bits to encode useful information, and that such an approach could also give consumer (and hence brand) benefits that would help make the business case for their introduction.
To develop the role of designers in the context of the circular economy, this paper investigated ... more To develop the role of designers in the context of the circular economy, this paper investigated the concept of whole systems thinking in design practice. Designers’ practices were examined not just from the product orientated perspective, but by taking a more holistic systems thinking approach. This addressed a combination of the market, consumers and communication, plus design and production processes, supply chain and end-of-life considerations. The paper presents individual case studies of environmentally motivated fashion design that displayed differing levels of positive impact based on their breadth of design activity, and whether a wider systems-based design approach was successfully incorporated. The methodology employed a review of literature relating to circular systems and design approaches, and combined this with primary data from semi-structured interviews. Interview data from ethical fashion brands and designers identified barriers to the wider adoption of circular ec...
All animals have a protective covering of skin, generally supplemented by an additional layer of ... more All animals have a protective covering of skin, generally supplemented by an additional layer of fur, scales, feathers or body armour. Consequently, we are surrounded by instructive models of protection-applicable to a great variety of environments and hazardous events. This chapter is particularly concerned with protection from injury resulting from impacts to the human body. The goal is the development of apparel (an additional layer designed for humans) that reduces risks of injury whilst maintaining usability and comfort for wearers. Understanding the mechanisms relevant to protection provides a starting-point for designing garments that absorb and diffuse the energies of impacts. However, a user-centred design approach must recognise that impact protection is just one of many factors to be considered during product development.
Apart from the many social and health problems it has caused, the COVID-19 pandemic has had a sev... more Apart from the many social and health problems it has caused, the COVID-19 pandemic has had a severe impact on most sectors of the economy worldwide. One of the areas where such impact is noticeable is the textile, apparel, and fashion (TAF) industry. The lockdowns and limited access to retailer outlets resulted in a considerable drop in consumption, creating problems related to the excess of stock, the decrease of sales, and the disposal of non-used items. This paper outlines the implications of the COVID-19 on the TAF sectors and European retailers. It analyzes how the current supply chains exacerbated stock control problems, and it reports on the changes in consumption during the pandemic. The worldwide restrictive measures implemented to cope with the COVID-19 pandemic were responsible for significant profit losses. Also, the decrease in consumption, caused by several geographically wide lockdowns, prompted a subsequent reduction in orders and sales, resulting in a significant n...
A rock cycle is proposed, in which geological processes of erosion, deposition and metamorphism a... more A rock cycle is proposed, in which geological processes of erosion, deposition and metamorphism are primarily controlled by vertical movements of crustal blocks. This rock cycle is considered to provide a framework for the scientific study of catastrophic episodes of Earth history.
TECTONIC CONTROLS ON SEDIMENTATION IN ROCKS FROM THE JURASSIC SERIES (YORKSHIRE, ENGLAND) DAVID J... more TECTONIC CONTROLS ON SEDIMENTATION IN ROCKS FROM THE JURASSIC SERIES (YORKSHIRE, ENGLAND) DAVID J. TYLER, PhD, MSc, BSc. c/o P.O. Box 22, Rugby, Warwickshire, CV22 7SY, England. One of the classic areas of British geology is reexamined using perspectives provided by the tectonicallycontrolled rock cycle and the Biblical record of the Flood. Field evidences are described which are highly suggestive of inter-related catastrophic processes and short time intervals. The conventional lengthy geologic timescales claimed for these rocks are challenged. The observations have a bearing on discussions relating to the position of the Flood/post-Flood boundary.
The highly motivated ethical consumer has been under investigation since the mid 1970’s, defined ... more The highly motivated ethical consumer has been under investigation since the mid 1970’s, defined as a distinct consumer segment most notably since the early 1990s and been relatively well documented in terms of behaviours, values, decision making, attitudes and motivation. Despite the recent mainstreaming of a broad range of ethical products and a steady increase in media presentation of ethical issues, the perceptions of the mainstream consumer remain relatively under researched. This paper reports upon the exploratory investigation undertaken to examine the nature of the ethical fashion message presented in popular print media. The aim of this first phase of study was to gain insight into the extent to which, the terms used in the communication of ethical fashion are understood by female consumers who are representative of the wider British public. A qualitative methodology was carried out using a grounded theory approach via the methods of qualitative content analysis, Q Method, ...
International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 2021
The impact of COVID-19 on shopping behaviour preferences has resulted in the accelerated adoption... more The impact of COVID-19 on shopping behaviour preferences has resulted in the accelerated adoption of e-commerce and increased traffic of first-time e-commerce shoppers worldwide. This study compared experienced versus inexperienced mobile consumers' shopping experiences on smartphones. A mixed-methods research, combining mobile eye-tracking technology and interviews, was employed. The comparison of experienced and inexperienced users showed significant differences in regards to time spent on various stages of the shopping journey, used elements of the website and problem areas encountered. Inexperienced users have higher expectations towards fashion retailer's website. Mobile consumers' prior experience using retailers' digital shopping platform is a key parameter in user experience research and participants' recruitment. The findings of this research have managerial and methodological implications and can be used in understanding the behaviour differences between current and potential customers, and in developing personalised shopping experiences on smartphones by feeding these into retailers' digital analytics database and marketing strategy.
Industry for its generous support. Thirteen major milestones were identified at the outset and th... more Industry for its generous support. Thirteen major milestones were identified at the outset and this report documents the achievements of the project team. The three companies came together following research into the Rochdale textile and clothing sectors which was carried out in 2001 for the then Business Link Rochdale by Manchester Metropolitan University. This research looked at ways in which the sector could be strengthened. Upon reviewing the research findings, it became apparent that 3 companies had, between them, the core skills for developing a masscustomisation route for interior textiles.
The word "industry" conjures up images of large rooms filled with machinery, handling equipment a... more The word "industry" conjures up images of large rooms filled with machinery, handling equipment and operators. The "apparel industry" is regarded as the engine for producing the garments that are eventually displayed in the High Street for us to purchase.
The household textiles market is moving quickly towards fashion products that complement apparel.... more The household textiles market is moving quickly towards fashion products that complement apparel. This creates many issues for traditional retailers who are used to product ranges with longer life cycles. The focus of the applied research reported in this paper concerns the potential of companies to transform their approach to fashion with the aid of textile digital printing to produce mass customized products. A single case study methodology has been adopted, based on a project part-funded by the UK Department of Trade and Industry. At the outset of the research, four technical problems were identified and three marketing challenges. The technical problems were concerned with color management, reduction in the use of black, the achievement of commercial standards of performance for printed textiles, and the standardization of processing conditions for textile substrates. The nature of the technical problems will be presented, together with the solutions that have been found. The market challenges were to enable three collaborating companies to operate in "virtual" mode, to identify suitable products, and to identify viable ways of getting access to consumers. Progress has been made in each of these areas, but the major issue concerns the interface with consumers. Manufacturers do not have an infrastructure giving access to markets, nor do they have the retailing expertise. At the same time, retail organizations have systems that involve holding stock items: physical products to sell. The mass customization concept is a paradigm shift for such organizations. At the same time, consumers easily confound mass customization with "made to measure". Nevertheless, the collaborating companies have found routes for digitally printed products via high street retailers and via internet sales. Spin-off companies have been formed and jobs have been created.
Abstract: Developments in clothing production technologies have been rapid and significant in two... more Abstract: Developments in clothing production technologies have been rapid and significant in two areas. The first concerns sew-free technologies, primarily adhesive bonding of seams. The technology innovations have affected many markets, but primarily lingerie and sportswear. This chapter considers the drivers for adoption of these technologies and the machinery used to achieve welded seams. The other area concerns three-dimensional (3D) body scanning and the potential for integrating scan data with 3D CAD and work on the fit of garments. The chapter provides an overview of recent literature and a critical discussion of the issues emerging from these technologies.
Functional electrical stimulation (FES) has been used to revitalise the muscles of people sufferi... more Functional electrical stimulation (FES) has been used to revitalise the muscles of people suffering from various kinds of injury. However, when human skin is incorporated into electrical circuits, it must not be treated as a passive component. Skin’s electrical properties must be known when electrodes deliver electrical stimulation to the body, whether by hydrogel electrodes or by electrodes embedded in apparel. Failure to address this issue increases the risk of skin burns due to too high current through the skin/electrode interface. We have demonstrated that there is a relationship between electrode size and measured voltage. The rise of voltage with a reduction of electrode size can be explained by the diminution of the skin contact area with resulting higher skin/electrode impedances. Thus, finding an electrical skin model that represents the behaviour of human skin is important for circuit design and the product development process.
Functional electrical stimulation is commonly used as a rehabilitation therapy to support the mov... more Functional electrical stimulation is commonly used as a rehabilitation therapy to support the movement of individuals who have suffered traumatic spinal cord injury. Recently, there has been a focused interest on the development of textile electrodes, as they pose many benefits over traditional electrodes. This study presents design considerations and the feasibility of a wearable FES garment sleeve using flexible and extensible screen-printed electrodes.
Designers and product developers are taking greater responsibility for the problems presented by ... more Designers and product developers are taking greater responsibility for the problems presented by the inefficient and unsustainable systems used to create new fashion items. The culture of transience, newness and perceived obsolescence, so prevalent in the fashion industry, has led to growing over-consumption and consequentially high volumes of waste. Clothing is often disposed of with as much as 70% of its potential lifetime still left. Upcycling seeks to provide a transitional solution to the textile waste problem, by optimising the lifetimes of discarded products from an inefficient system, as technology moves to develop more sustainable approaches. As a design based waste solution, upcycled fashion production utilises textile waste to create products with a higher retail value than traditionally recycled goods. This paper aims to analyse the innovative ways in which UK based upcycling designers are recreating style and value from discarded materials, and the benefits of this proc...
Designers and product developers are taking greater responsibility for the problems presented by ... more Designers and product developers are taking greater responsibility for the problems presented by the inefficient and unsustainable systems used to create new fashion items. The culture of transience, newness and perceived obsolescence, so prevalent in the fashion industry, has led to growing over-consumption and consequentially high volumes of waste. Clothing is often disposed of with as much as 70% of its potential lifetime still left. Upcycling seeks to provide a transitional solution to the textile waste problem, by optimising the lifetimes of discarded products from an inefficient system, as technology moves to develop more sustainable approaches. As a design based waste solution, upcycled fashion production utilises textile waste to create products with a higher retail value than traditionally recycled goods. This paper aims to analyse the innovative ways in which UK based upcycling designers are recreating style and value from discarded materials, and the benefits of this process. The author’s own design process, as a UK based upcycling designer, was documented and examined. Challenges and solutions to upcycled production were then further investigated through structured interviews and observational field trips with leading UK based upcycling practitioners. The practical implications of this research include the development of an innovative, UK based sustainable design and production approach, which directly tackles the issue of textile waste and offers scope for further employment and training within the industry. Social implications include recommendations on how best to engage with the public on environmental issues in the apparel industry, and the wider implications of these issues.
Designers and product developers are currently being called upon to take greater responsibility f... more Designers and product developers are currently being called upon to take greater responsibility for the problems presented by the inefficient and unsustainable systems used to create new fashion items. The culture of transience, newness and perceived obsolescence, so prevalent in the fashion industry, has led to growing over-consumption and consequentially high volumes of waste. In fact, clothing is often disposed of with as much as 70% of its potential lifetime still left. Upcycling seeks to provide a transitional solution to the textile waste problem, by optimising the lifetime of discarded products from an inefficient system, as technology moves to develop more sustainable approaches. As a design based waste solution, upcycled fashion production utilises textile waste to create products with a higher retail value than traditionally recycled goods. This paper aims to analyse the innovative ways in which UK based upcycling designers are recreating style and value from discarded materials, and the benefits of this process. The author’s own design process, as a UK based upcycling designer, was documented and examined. Challenges and solutions to upcycled production were then further investigated through structured interviews and observational field trips with leading UK based upcycling practitioners. The consumer perspective was addressed through a series of focus groups interviews, used to gain insights on attitudes, consumption behaviour, taste and trends. This qualitative data was collated from a specific cohort of participants, chosen through market research information. The information from all aspects of this research was then analysed to identify the main benefits and considerations for designing upcycled fashion. These factors were then used to create a conceptual upcycling model for the design and large-scale manufacturing of upcycled fashion products, including effective marketing strategies. This model was then critically analysed in comparison to current design and manufacturing processes and forms a foundation for further research and testing. The practical implications of this research include the development of an innovative, UK based sustainable design and production approach, which directly tackles the issue of textile waste and offers scope for further employment and training within the industry. Social implications include recommendations on how best to engage with the public on environmental issues in the apparel industry, and the wider implications of these issues. Upcycling also supports sustainable economic localisation, utilising locally sourced materials, work-force and skills, plus adding to the development of local communities through engagement in activities related to sustainable consumption, skill sharing and education. Additional benefits to local communities and groups also occur when upcycling businesses support social and environmental projects through funding and resources, and provide employment for disadvantaged individuals through worker’s co-operatives and initiatives. Key words Upcycling; Textile Waste; Design; Production; Sustainability; Social; Economic; Environment
Apart from the many social and health problems it has caused, the COVID-19 pandemic has had a sev... more Apart from the many social and health problems it has caused, the COVID-19 pandemic has had a severe impact on most sectors of the economy worldwide. One of the areas where such impact is noticeable is the textile, apparel, and fashion (TAF) industry. The lockdowns and limited access to retailer outlets resulted in a considerable drop in consumption, creating problems related to the excess of stock, the decrease of sales, and the disposal of non-used items. This paper outlines the implications of the COVID-19 on the TAF sectors and European retailers. It analyzes how the current supply chains exacerbated stock control problems, and it reports on the changes in consumption during the pandemic. The worldwide restrictive measures implemented to cope with the COVID-19 pandemic were responsible for significant profit losses. Also, the decrease in consumption, caused by several geographically wide lockdowns, prompted a subsequent reduction in orders and sales, resulting in a significant number of constraints. The implementation of more environmentally friendly processes, including sustainable circularity as a competitiveness source to keep the TAF sectors in the loop and reduce greenhouse gas emissions, may help address the problems associated with the COVID-19 pandemic in the sustainability context, as reported in this paper.
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Papers by David Tyler
Upcycling seeks to provide a transitional solution to the textile waste problem, by optimising the lifetimes of discarded products from an inefficient system, as technology moves to develop more sustainable approaches. As a design based waste solution, upcycled fashion production utilises textile waste to create products with a higher retail value than traditionally recycled goods.
This paper aims to analyse the innovative ways in which UK based upcycling designers are recreating style and value from discarded materials, and the benefits of this process. The author’s own design process, as a UK based upcycling designer, was documented and examined. Challenges and solutions to upcycled production were then further investigated through structured interviews and observational field trips with leading UK based upcycling practitioners.
The practical implications of this research include the development of an innovative, UK based sustainable design and production approach, which directly tackles the issue of textile waste and offers scope for further employment and training within the industry. Social implications include recommendations on how best to engage with the public on environmental issues in the apparel industry, and the wider implications of these issues.
Upcycling seeks to provide a transitional solution to the textile waste problem, by optimising the lifetime of discarded products from an inefficient system, as technology moves to develop more sustainable approaches. As a design based waste solution, upcycled fashion production utilises textile waste to create products with a higher retail value than traditionally recycled goods.
This paper aims to analyse the innovative ways in which UK based upcycling designers are recreating style and value from discarded materials, and the benefits of this process. The author’s own design process, as a UK based upcycling designer, was documented and examined. Challenges and solutions to upcycled production were then further investigated through structured interviews and observational field trips with leading UK based upcycling practitioners.
The consumer perspective was addressed through a series of focus groups interviews, used to gain insights on attitudes, consumption behaviour, taste and trends. This qualitative data was collated from a specific cohort of participants, chosen through market research information. The information from all aspects of this research was then analysed to identify the main benefits and considerations for designing upcycled fashion.
These factors were then used to create a conceptual upcycling model for the design and large-scale manufacturing of upcycled fashion products, including effective marketing strategies. This model was then critically analysed in comparison to current design and manufacturing processes and forms a foundation for further research and testing.
The practical implications of this research include the development of an innovative, UK based sustainable design and production approach, which directly tackles the issue of textile waste and offers scope for further employment and training within the industry. Social implications include recommendations on how best to engage with the public on environmental issues in the apparel industry, and the wider implications of these issues.
Upcycling also supports sustainable economic localisation, utilising locally sourced materials, work-force and skills, plus adding to the development of local communities through engagement in activities related to sustainable consumption, skill sharing and education.
Additional benefits to local communities and groups also occur when upcycling businesses support social and environmental projects through funding and resources, and provide employment for disadvantaged individuals through worker’s co-operatives and initiatives.
Key words
Upcycling; Textile Waste; Design; Production; Sustainability; Social; Economic; Environment