Conference Presentations by Christina Margariti
Studies in Conservation , 2020
The aim of this research was to produce reference data for the study and identification of fibres... more The aim of this research was to produce reference data for the study and identification of fibres of carbonised excavated textiles. Thus, the effects of carbonisation (incomplete burning) on the morphology and dimensions of selected fibres used in textile production were investigated. A set of standard test, commercial, and handmade fabrics, of four cellulosic (cotton, flax, hemp, nettle) and two proteinaceous (silk, wool/ wool felt) fibres, were used for the experiments. Samples were carbonised in a limited oxygen environment at 250, 350, and 500°C for one hour (apart from the wool samples for which the duration of the experiment had to be lowered to six minutes). Wool and silk samples were destroyed at temperatures above 250°C. All cellulosic and the silk samples shrank and their weight was reduced at different percentages that increased as the temperature increased. Exceptionally, wool textile samples exhibited extreme shrinkage but also an increase in their weight. Similarly, the fibre diameters of the cellulosic and silk fibres shrunk gradually at different degrees as the temperature increased, and some exhibited marked degradation patterns, like lacerations in flax, ridges in hemp, raggedness in nettle, and cracks in silk fibres. Wool fibres swell locally but retained the scale pattern on the surface. In general, an increase in the weave count of the textile samples was observed. However, the morphology of the fibres characteristic to their identification did not alter to an unrecognisable degree as a result of artificial carbonisation, as long as the material was preserved.
Hesperos. The Aegean seen from the West. 16th International Aegean Conference. University of Ioannina, 16-21 May 2016, 2017
Abstract
This communication presents an exceptional find from Western Greece, a well-preserved co... more Abstract
This communication presents an exceptional find from Western Greece, a well-preserved collection of archaeological textiles. The textiles’ provenance is the
Proto-geometric burial site (approx. 1050-900 B.C.) of Stamna in Aetolia, an
extensive cemetery of more than 600 Early Iron Age burials. The site was
excavated by the Greek archaeological service as a rescue excavation in 2003
under the direction of Dr. L. Kolonas.
Among the numerous and important finds of the cemetery there are three bronze
cauldrons covered with textiles, which are preserved by mineralization. Of the
three vessels, one is entirely preserved and is positioned on a tripod, a second is
preserved without the legs and from a third only textile fragments are preserved.
The fabrics inside the vessels are densely packed around human bones and
carbonized fruits. The textiles are partly tightly packed into the 3 vessels, and partly placed on top of them. They are in a fragile state, but still so well preserved that analyses could be carried out.
A preliminary study revealed several types of weaves and a wide range of
qualities, from a net-like structure of thick and coarse threads, to extremely fine
fabrics of exceptionally thin threads and very high thread counts.
There seem to be at least 6 types of weave: 2 coarse and 4 fine types. Some fabrics
are of a very fine quality, with thread counts of up to 80/cm. Some of them are
faced, some are balanced, and they all seem to be tabbies. One uncommon weave
is not yet identified. All threads are z-spun. The diversity of the Stamna textiles
demonstrate different items of a variety of techniques (i.e. fine clothing or coarse
wrapping material), and not one single shroud. Our current analyses include C14
for specified dating, fiber analysis, and HPLC and FTIR analyses to identify dyes
and fibers.
One of the fine fabrics still preserves purple coloured stripes. Chemical dye
analyses (HPLC) have demonstrated evidence of true murex purple which
coloured the broad bands of dyed yarn. The examination by electron microscopy
reveals evidence for the use of scaled keratin fibres indicating wool. High amounts
of iron and minor amounts of copper and sulfur are found by SEM-EDX analysis.
The threads are heavily mineralized and covered by a thick metallic layer.
The Stamna textiles represent one of the largest assemblages of archaeological
textiles preserved in the Aegean; it is a substantial addition to the quite meager
catalogue of Early Iron Age textiles from Greece and thus a significant
contribution to our understanding of the Early Iron Age textile cultures of Europe.
Papers by Christina Margariti
Heritage science, Apr 25, 2024
Stereomicroscopy, Scanning Electron Microscopy-Energy Dispersive Spectroscopy (SEM-EDS), Fourier ... more Stereomicroscopy, Scanning Electron Microscopy-Energy Dispersive Spectroscopy (SEM-EDS), Fourier Transform Infrared spectroscopy with Attenuated Total Reflectance probe (FTIR-ATR), High Performance Liquid Chromatography with a Photodiode Array system (HPLC-PDA), X-ray Fluorescence spectroscopy (XRF), Zooarchaeology by Mass Spectrometry (ZooMS), and 14 C dating were applied to an assemblage of textile and leather fragments that belong to the collection of the Byzantine & Christian Museum of Athens in Greece and lacked inventory information.The analyses applied, along with bibliographical research, yielded information on the materials, techniques and provenance of the find. The assemblage of finds consists of a gold thread embroidered silk satin, dyed with shellfish-purple; a gold strip-drawn wire embroidered silk tabby; a gold strip-drawn wire and red silk thread tapestry; a gold-thread embroidery on a tabby background; fragments of braided cord; and leather fragments. The material components could have been produced locally, in the area of the Byzantine Empire, though some of them indicate connections with India and/or China. The assemblage, dated between the mid AD 10th and mid eleventh century, was probably found in 1924 by Andreas Xygopoulos during the excavation of a tomb inside the church of Agia Sophia in Thessaloniki, Greece.
Research Square (Research Square), Aug 29, 2022
Archaeological textiles are suitable material for radiocarbon dating since they are mainly made o... more Archaeological textiles are suitable material for radiocarbon dating since they are mainly made of organic matter, like plant and/or animal bres. Radiocarbon dating provides objective age estimates of archaeological nds, based on measurements of the carbon-14 isotope present in the organic matter against an internationally used reference standard. However, the quantity and quality of carbon present in the organic matter of archaeological textiles, can be affected either by the conditions under which the nd was preserved (such as, carbonisation, the chemical change of organic matter to inert carbon, and mineralisation, the gradual replacement of organic matter by metal degradation products), or by the application of certain interventive methods of conservation (such as, consolidation and the application of organic adhesives, that add foreign organic matter/carbon to the textile). Six case studies of archaeological textiles that were dated using the carbon-14 method are presented here. Two carbonised textile nds, two mineralised (one treated with adhesives in the past), and two textile nds coming from inhumation burials (similarly one previously treated with adhesives). The paper includes a discussion and review of the dating method, focusing on sample selection, sample preparation, and an evaluation of the e ciency of the technique on textile nds at various states of preservation. In essence, the e ciency of the technique is highly dependable on the amount of carbon present in the nds, which does not seem to be affected by carbonisation, but is greatly negatively affected by mineralisation and the incorporation of foreign organic matter, like synthetic consolidants.
Oxbow Books, Jun 28, 2023
Heritage Science
Archaeological textiles are suitable material for radiocarbon dating as they are mainly made of o... more Archaeological textiles are suitable material for radiocarbon dating as they are mainly made of organic matter, such as plant and/or animal fibres. Radiocarbon dating provides objective age estimates of archaeological finds, based on measurements of the carbon-14 isotope present in the organic matter against an internationally used reference standard. However, the quantity and quality of carbon present in the organic matter of archaeological textiles can be affected either by the conditions under which the find was preserved (such as carbonisation, chemical change of organic matter to carbon, and mineralisation, which is the gradual replacement of organic matter by metal degradation products), or by the application of certain interventive methods of conservation (such as, consolidation and the application of organic adhesives that add foreign organic matter/carbon to the textile). Six case studies of archaeological textiles dated using the carbon-14 method are presented here. Two ca...
Additional file 1. Additional figures.
Redefining ancient textile handcraft structures, tools and production processes: proceedings of the VIIth International Symposium on Textiles and Dyes in the Ancient Mediterranean World (Granada, Spain 2-4 October 2019), 2020, ISBN 978-84-338-6776-6, págs. 401-412, 2020
Studies in Conservation, 2020
ABSTRACT The aim of this research was to compare the performance of different cellulosic and prot... more ABSTRACT The aim of this research was to compare the performance of different cellulosic and proteinaceous textiles when exposed to the action of micro-organisms and to produce reference data for fibre identification of biodegraded textiles. Thus, the effects of micro-organisms grown in simulated soil burial on the textiles and their fibres were investigated. Cotton, linen, hemp, nettle, silk, and wool textiles were used for the experiments. Samples were buried in loam soil for 2, 4, 8, 16, and 32 weeks in a laboratory environment away from light. The cellulosic textiles were more readily attacked by microorganisms, followed by the wool, while the preservation of the silks was remarkable. The molecular composition and structure of the fibres, as well as the structure of the textiles themselves seem to be responsible for the different degrees of deterioration. The morphology of all fibres apart from silk was severely affected, in some cases to unrecognisable degrees. Notable degradation patterns developed like diagonal splits and grooves in cotton; longitudinal splits, erosion, and fibrillation in linen, hemp, and nettle; shedding of the scales and fibrillation in wool; and exposure of the inner fibrils in silk.
Studies in Conservation, 2020
ABSTRACT The aim of this research was to produce reference data for the study and identification ... more ABSTRACT The aim of this research was to produce reference data for the study and identification of fibres of carbonised excavated textiles. Thus, the effects of carbonisation (incomplete burning) on the morphology and dimensions of selected fibres used in textile production were investigated. A set of standard test, commercial, and hand-made fabrics, of four cellulosic (cotton, flax, hemp, nettle) and two proteinaceous (silk, wool/ wool felt) fibres, were used for the experiments. Samples were carbonised in a limited oxygen environment at 250, 350, and 500°C for one hour (apart from the wool samples for which the duration of the experiment had to be lowered to six minutes). Wool and silk samples were destroyed at temperatures above 250°C. All cellulosic and the silk samples shrank and their weight was reduced at different percentages that increased as the temperature increased. Exceptionally, wool textile samples exhibited extreme shrinkage but also an increase in their weight. Similarly, the fibre diameters of the cellulosic and silk fibres shrunk gradually at different degrees as the temperature increased, and some exhibited marked degradation patterns, like lacerations in flax, ridges in hemp, raggedness in nettle, and cracks in silk fibres. Wool fibres swell locally but retained the scale pattern on the surface. In general, an increase in the weave count of the textile samples was observed. However, the morphology of the fibres characteristic to their identification did not alter to an unrecognisable degree as a result of artificial carbonisation, as long as the material was preserved.
Archaeological Reports, 2017
This paper offers an account of the archaeological textiles excavated in Greece, consideration of... more This paper offers an account of the archaeological textiles excavated in Greece, consideration of the challenges one has to deal with when studying such materials and a discussion of ways to overcome them. A complete list of archaeological textiles excavated in Greece is not within the scope of this paper, since such comprehensive studies have been published previously (Spantidaki and Moulhérat 2012; Moulhérat and Spantidaki 2016) and, of course, the corpus of such textiles is continuously expanding.The study of textiles is an emerging and fast-growing field of Greek archaeology (Gleba 2011). The number of archaeologists and conservators working with and studying archaeological textiles is steadily increasing, thus raising the general awareness of textiles and expanding the corpus of known ancient fabrics. In recent years, several research projects have investigated ancient Greek textiles, such as those conducted by the Centre for Textile Research at the University of Copenhagen (fo...
Journal of the Institute of Conservation, 2016
In this paper, an application to the approximation by wavelets has been obtained by using matrix-... more In this paper, an application to the approximation by wavelets has been obtained by using matrix-Cesàro (Λ • C 1 ) method of Jacobi polynomials. The rapid rate of convergence of matrix-Cesàro method of Jacobi polynomials are estimated. The result of Theorem (6.1) of this research paper is applicable for avoiding the Gibbs phenomenon in intermediate levels of wavelet approximations. There are major roles of wavelet approximations (obtained in this paper) in computer applications. The matrix-Cesàro (Λ•C 1 ) method includes (N, p n )•C 1 method as a particular case. The comparison between the numerical results obtained by the (N, p n ) • C 1 and matrix-Cesàro (Λ • C 1 ) summability method reveals a slight improvement concerning the reduction of the excessive oscillations by using the approach of present paper.
Heritage Science, 2019
The potential of Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) microspectroscopy, to inform the study and con... more The potential of Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) microspectroscopy, to inform the study and conservation of mineralised excavated textiles is discussed, highlighted by two case studies of 5th c. BCE finds. In both cases the textiles were funerary from pyre burials, used to wrap the remains of the incinerated bones of the deceased, and placed inside copper alloy urns, to be buried. FTIR spectra of the textile fibres were acquired by an FTIR microscope in reflectance mode. In regard to the two case studies, this was a non-invasive and non-destructive method, since it did not involve removal of material for sampling, as both finds were in a fragmentary condition, it did not apply any pressure, nor did it require pressing of the minute fragments used as samples. Past fibre analyses in case study A reported cultivated and wild silk, which had been used as evidence of the presence of silk in Classical Greece, while more recent studies, controversially pointed to either cellulosic or wool fibres. The unlimited application of FTIR microspectroscopy in reflectance mode due to its non-invasive/destructive nature, enhanced fibre identification but most importantly led to further analyses of specific fragments that revealed the find was suffering from active biodeterioration, subsequently treated. Case study B, where the textiles had been preserved folded, was a particularly unique find from its period, since one of the textiles present was bearing evidence of embroidery. Similarly, the extended application of FTIR microspectroscopy indicated good preservation of the organic matter within the fibres, informing thus the conservation decision-making process, which involved partial unfolding of the textiles, an action that revealed an additional decoration pattern, and minute fragments of the embroidery thread preserved.
A Case Study of the Conservation of Costumes from the Ethnographical & Historical Museum of Larissa, 2005
This paper presents the work of the textile section in the Directorate of Conservation of Ancient... more This paper presents the work of the textile section in the Directorate of Conservation of Ancient and Modern Monuments, and the new central textile conservation laboratory of the Hellenic Ministry of Culture that was set up to deal with textile collections of ecclesiastical and folk-art nature all over Greece. The conservation of the textile collection of the Ethnographical and Historical Museum of the city of Larissa is presented as a case study of the work of the aforementioned bodies.
Scanning Electron and Optical microscopes, longitudinal and cross-section images of various plant... more Scanning Electron and Optical microscopes, longitudinal and cross-section images of various plant and animal fibres, untreated, after burial is soil and carbonised.
Theophilos Hatzimihail (1870–1934, Greek: Θeόφιλος Χατζημιχαήλ or Θeόφιλος Κeφαλάς), known simply... more Theophilos Hatzimihail (1870–1934, Greek: Θeόφιλος Χατζημιχαήλ or Θeόφιλος Κeφαλάς), known simply as Theophilos, was a major folk painter of Neo-Hellenic Art. The main subjects of his works are Greek characters and the illustration of Greek traditional folklife and history. The objective of the present research work is the characterization of the pigments and their application on easel paintings of Theophilos Hatzimihail using a combined analytical methodology. For this purpose, four easel paintings (1927–1931) were studied, which are part of a large collection belonging to the Theophilos Museum in Varia, island of Lesvos, Greece. In-situ measurements were performed with the use of portable X-ray fluorescence (XRF) and VIS-NIR fiber optics diffuse reflectance spectroscopy (FORS) non-invasive techniques at multiple spots of various color impressions for the determination of the chemical elemental composition and the reflectance spectral characteristics of the pigments. Furthermore, l...
A survey through published and unpublished data on archaeological textiles found in land excavati... more A survey through published and unpublished data on archaeological textiles found in land excavations in Greece has revealed an important list. Information such as provenance, archaeological context, environmental parameters, condition of the finds, scientific examination, documentation, conservation treatment etc is compiled and interesting results are found for the characterization of this limited, but important sector of Hellenic Cultural Heritage. This paper is a presentation of the operation plan conducted by the Directorate of Conservation of Ancient and Modern Monuments-Hellenic Ministry of Culture, on the development of conservation strategies for archaeological textiles.
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Conference Presentations by Christina Margariti
This communication presents an exceptional find from Western Greece, a well-preserved collection of archaeological textiles. The textiles’ provenance is the
Proto-geometric burial site (approx. 1050-900 B.C.) of Stamna in Aetolia, an
extensive cemetery of more than 600 Early Iron Age burials. The site was
excavated by the Greek archaeological service as a rescue excavation in 2003
under the direction of Dr. L. Kolonas.
Among the numerous and important finds of the cemetery there are three bronze
cauldrons covered with textiles, which are preserved by mineralization. Of the
three vessels, one is entirely preserved and is positioned on a tripod, a second is
preserved without the legs and from a third only textile fragments are preserved.
The fabrics inside the vessels are densely packed around human bones and
carbonized fruits. The textiles are partly tightly packed into the 3 vessels, and partly placed on top of them. They are in a fragile state, but still so well preserved that analyses could be carried out.
A preliminary study revealed several types of weaves and a wide range of
qualities, from a net-like structure of thick and coarse threads, to extremely fine
fabrics of exceptionally thin threads and very high thread counts.
There seem to be at least 6 types of weave: 2 coarse and 4 fine types. Some fabrics
are of a very fine quality, with thread counts of up to 80/cm. Some of them are
faced, some are balanced, and they all seem to be tabbies. One uncommon weave
is not yet identified. All threads are z-spun. The diversity of the Stamna textiles
demonstrate different items of a variety of techniques (i.e. fine clothing or coarse
wrapping material), and not one single shroud. Our current analyses include C14
for specified dating, fiber analysis, and HPLC and FTIR analyses to identify dyes
and fibers.
One of the fine fabrics still preserves purple coloured stripes. Chemical dye
analyses (HPLC) have demonstrated evidence of true murex purple which
coloured the broad bands of dyed yarn. The examination by electron microscopy
reveals evidence for the use of scaled keratin fibres indicating wool. High amounts
of iron and minor amounts of copper and sulfur are found by SEM-EDX analysis.
The threads are heavily mineralized and covered by a thick metallic layer.
The Stamna textiles represent one of the largest assemblages of archaeological
textiles preserved in the Aegean; it is a substantial addition to the quite meager
catalogue of Early Iron Age textiles from Greece and thus a significant
contribution to our understanding of the Early Iron Age textile cultures of Europe.
Papers by Christina Margariti
This communication presents an exceptional find from Western Greece, a well-preserved collection of archaeological textiles. The textiles’ provenance is the
Proto-geometric burial site (approx. 1050-900 B.C.) of Stamna in Aetolia, an
extensive cemetery of more than 600 Early Iron Age burials. The site was
excavated by the Greek archaeological service as a rescue excavation in 2003
under the direction of Dr. L. Kolonas.
Among the numerous and important finds of the cemetery there are three bronze
cauldrons covered with textiles, which are preserved by mineralization. Of the
three vessels, one is entirely preserved and is positioned on a tripod, a second is
preserved without the legs and from a third only textile fragments are preserved.
The fabrics inside the vessels are densely packed around human bones and
carbonized fruits. The textiles are partly tightly packed into the 3 vessels, and partly placed on top of them. They are in a fragile state, but still so well preserved that analyses could be carried out.
A preliminary study revealed several types of weaves and a wide range of
qualities, from a net-like structure of thick and coarse threads, to extremely fine
fabrics of exceptionally thin threads and very high thread counts.
There seem to be at least 6 types of weave: 2 coarse and 4 fine types. Some fabrics
are of a very fine quality, with thread counts of up to 80/cm. Some of them are
faced, some are balanced, and they all seem to be tabbies. One uncommon weave
is not yet identified. All threads are z-spun. The diversity of the Stamna textiles
demonstrate different items of a variety of techniques (i.e. fine clothing or coarse
wrapping material), and not one single shroud. Our current analyses include C14
for specified dating, fiber analysis, and HPLC and FTIR analyses to identify dyes
and fibers.
One of the fine fabrics still preserves purple coloured stripes. Chemical dye
analyses (HPLC) have demonstrated evidence of true murex purple which
coloured the broad bands of dyed yarn. The examination by electron microscopy
reveals evidence for the use of scaled keratin fibres indicating wool. High amounts
of iron and minor amounts of copper and sulfur are found by SEM-EDX analysis.
The threads are heavily mineralized and covered by a thick metallic layer.
The Stamna textiles represent one of the largest assemblages of archaeological
textiles preserved in the Aegean; it is a substantial addition to the quite meager
catalogue of Early Iron Age textiles from Greece and thus a significant
contribution to our understanding of the Early Iron Age textile cultures of Europe.