Thesis Chapters by Natalia Berger
The modern discourse of fashion spreads over the different parts of human life. Fashion is not ju... more The modern discourse of fashion spreads over the different parts of human life. Fashion is not just about an elegant, stylish or kinky “look” anymore. Fashion today is also bound up with ethical attachments such as sustainable materials and fair-trade production. Fashion stretches from ‘haute couture’ into the development of outfits for special groups of consumers (for example, customized items for military personnel, athletes, wheelchair users etc.) The focus of this case study is the presentation of clothing for disabled people, specifically wheelchair users, in the Dutch printed mass media. The question of our research has arisen from non-profit organisations and small-business enterprises, that are engaged in the development and promotion of what they call fashion on wheels. They wanted to know whether this topic attracts any mass media attention; and if so, how the topic is presented in the local and national printed press in the Netherlands?
Books by Natalia Berger
The papers focus on the phenomenon of investigative journalism from the theoretical point of view... more The papers focus on the phenomenon of investigative journalism from the theoretical point of view. Journalistic investigation has been defined as a method of professional journalism, which has its own structure and patterns. The distinctive elements of this method manifest themself on two interrelated levels – gnoseological (at the stage of experience) and representative (at the stage of the creation of a text as a result of investigation). The key element that helps to differentiate journalistic investigation from other forms of journalism is its subject. In the papers the author names constituting elements of the subject of journalistic research. The two other basic elements of the presented theory of investigative journalism – purpose and function – are studied on the examples from the practice of Russian journalism (1990-2005).
Papers by Natalia Berger
Dialogue studies, Sep 14, 2023
Although vlogging remains primarily a high-powered phenomenon of the millennial’s media-universe,... more Although vlogging remains primarily a high-powered phenomenon of the millennial’s media-universe, it is becoming a more and more visible part of the broader everyday media landscape. At the end of 2017, two of the most prominent Dutch comedians included satirical passages about vloggers in their traditional New Year’s shows on national TV. A couple of weeks before, all broadcasters in the Netherlands, including the NOS Journal (production of the Nederland’s Public Broadcasting), reported about a break-up between a famous Dutch vlogger and his girlfriend, the topic was accompanied by a heartbreaking video with tears. Short videos from the web have become an indispensable part of all kinds of TV-programs – from serious political talk-shows and tabloid news to the whole spectrum of do-it-your-self entertainment. Thesis, that the young generation does not watch television, has become commonplace. According to the trends overview of the Globalwebindex , video watching on social media is ...
The papers focus on the phenomenon of investigative journalism from the theoretical point of view... more The papers focus on the phenomenon of investigative journalism from the theoretical point of view. Journalistic investigation has been defined as a method of professional journalism, which has its own structure and patterns. The distinctive elements of this method manifest themself on two interrelated levels – gnoseological (at the stage of experience) and representative (at the stage of the creation of a text as a result of investigation). The key element that helps to differentiate journalistic investigation from other forms of journalism is its subject. In the papers the author names constituting elements of the subject of journalistic research. The two other basic elements of the presented theory of investigative journalism – purpose and function – are studied on the examples from the practice of Russian journalism (1990-2005).
The Routledge Companion to Fashion Studies, 2021
YouTube-stars in the public discourse of conventional media. , 2018
Notwithstanding that vlogging has been studied across different disciplines and diverse theoretic... more Notwithstanding that vlogging has been studied across different disciplines and diverse theoretical traditions, all these studies have one element in common – they focus on the attributes of vlogging as such, within the phenomenon itself. In our article we argue that it is also important to shed light upon the conventional media practices around vlogging, which unfolds beyond this user-generated practices. Based on constructivist's theoretical premises, this study combined content-analysis of 221 texts from Dutch print mass media and related case-study with the following critical discourse analysis, aiming to establish the link between the language used and the social practises. According to our findings, the biggest share of the relevant public discourse, presented in the corpus, consists of organic components of vlogging discourse such as introduction of vloggers along with attribution of their life and achievements. Discursive practices related to the celebrities and business social realms are the two main contaminants but also competitors of the leading discourse. Against our expectations, other discourses involved in the relevant order of discourses – millennials, technology and media landscape – have been very uneven and not actively presented in journalists' accounts about vloggers. Public discourse around vlogging is filled with stereotypes. Albeit not all cliché's have been supported by samples from our corpus, the mainstream attitude towards vloggers and their productions translated by writing journalists is simplification. Vloggers themselves, their video diaries and books are often depicted as 'lightweights' and 'amateurish'. The 'value' of an online-influencer has been embodied in numbers: one's age, number of followers, views and subscribers. Although, there are a lot of examples of professionalisation of vlogging practices in the analysed press representations, members of professional corporations are not ready yet to seriously discuss features of vloggers' creations from the position of professional standards. Contrariwise, actors of business social practices – brands, managers, marketeers and media-producers, interviewed by correspondents – express their strong beliefs in vloggers' commercial potential.
Numerous market studies predict each year significant growth of the wearable technology market an... more Numerous market studies predict each year significant growth of the wearable technology market and a massive increase of global spending on wearable devices. Simultaneously, market analytics are talking about " the uncertainty of consumer receptivity ". Till now the popularity of wearables is limited to a number of gadgets as smart watches and fitness bands, health and self-care wearable devices. Mass production of smart fashion items is still out of question. Whether this " rule " will be broken any soon, depends on a lot of technological and social factors. One of these is mass media. Researchers emphasise the crucial role of the mass media in the fashion discourse, where the media has been seen as " an important basis of the ideology of consumption ". The objective of the presented research is to show how smart fashion has been presented in the modern journalists texts published in English. The principles of the critical discourse analysis and framing theory were applied to the coding system of our content analysis of 448 relevant texts retrieved from LexisNexis database. The biggest amount of the analysed journalistic texts are reporting about the relies of the new smart product; the articles about the future potentials of the wearables and the reviews of the latest e-textiles market research are also among the most popular subjects of the media. A consumer self attracts very little attention from the media, when they publish about smart fashion. Texts about the topic can be described as a multi-discursive, where the technological discourse has been explored most intensive, followed by the fashion discourse. Against our expectations, the economical context has been also rich presented in the items about e-mode. The medical & healthcare and sport & fitness have been illuminated as the most common fields of use of the innovative clothing and gadgets. In the articles we can hear the voices of designers , experts, scientists and industrials; only consumer has been hardly presented in the texts. Remarkable , when consumers speak, they find wearables " too invasive " , " mind blowing " , " a media-hype " ; the public wants to know " how technology will change our life " and is worrying about privacy and safety of personal data. Right now the mass media frames smart fashion as a niche market for minorities. The conclusion is, without a systematic and properly framed coverage of the subject in the mass media; it will be very difficult for the hi-tech fashion to find its way to the mass consumer.
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Thesis Chapters by Natalia Berger
Books by Natalia Berger
Papers by Natalia Berger