2015. Wave energy resource at bimep (Basque coast). Revista de Investigación Marina, AZTI, 22(4):... more 2015. Wave energy resource at bimep (Basque coast). Revista de Investigación Marina, AZTI, 22(4): 65-75 La serie 'Revista de Investigación Marina', editada por la Unidad de Investigación Marina de AZTI, cuenta con el siguiente Comité
EuskOOS is the Basque coastal operational oceanography system operated by Euskalmet (Basque Meteo... more EuskOOS is the Basque coastal operational oceanography system operated by Euskalmet (Basque Meteorological Agency) along with the expert advice of AZTI (a technology centre specialized in marine and food research). EuskOOS is designed to provide an accurate description of the current sea state conditions in the Basque coastal and oceanic area, offering ongoing forecasts of the near future sea conditions and supplying downstream services to both local and regional users. To address its objectives, EuskOOS is connected to other European initiatives in the oceanography field. EuskOOS is part of IBIROOS (Ireland-Biscay-Iberia Regional Operational Oceanographic System) and actively contributes to the EuroGOOS (European Global Ocean Observing System) strategy. EuskOOS also benefits from innovations and best practices coming from projects such as JERICO-NEXT (Joint European Research Infrastructure network for Coastal Observatory-Novel European eXpertise for coastal observaTories, Horizon 2020 Programme). EuskOOS is also collaborating with other eight coastal observatories along the Atlantic coast within the MyCOAST project (Coordinated Atlantic Coastal Operational Oceanographic Observatory, Interreg Atlantic Area Programme). In terms of observing capacities, EuskOOS is fed with a wide network of coastal and oceanic platforms provided by Euskalmet: high-frequency radar, deepwater buoy, coastal stations and tidal gauges. Besides, the operational oceanography system is supported with video-monitoring stations developed by AZTI. These stations provide highly valuable information for the prevention and management of extreme events, and the acquisition of morphodynamic coastal data for long-term analysis (i.e. climate change). The information produced is shared within European marine data structures, such as Emodnet and Copernicus Marine Service. At the same time, these facilities are used to optimize the downstream services. For the Basque local users, EuskOOS works as a walkway towards other sources of information distributed in such European marine structures. Oceans are key climate regulators as well as sources of natural resources. Likewise, they are crucial for tourism, transport and commerce. Therefore, our future depends to a large extent on the good environmental status of the oceans. To take care of it, access to both high-quality and high-resolution information that can be continuously shared through different marine data services is needed (i.e. efficient operational oceanography systems). This is the main objective of EuskOOS, whose data will be integrated into different services for different applications (e.g. blue economy, sustainable management of natural resources, biodiversity conservation). EuskOOS will contribute to the outreach of applications and opportunities based on coastal and oceanic data.
ABSTRACT De Santiago, I., Morichon, D., Abadie, S., Castelle, B., Liria, P. and Epelde, I., 2013.... more ABSTRACT De Santiago, I., Morichon, D., Abadie, S., Castelle, B., Liria, P. and Epelde, I., 2013. Video observation of the morphodynamics of nearshore sandbars on a partially engineered embayed beach. Embayed beaches are prevalent environments along the northern Spanish coastline. The present work analyses the temporal and spatial variability of nearshore sandbars on the pocket beach of Zarautz using daily video observations over 2 years. This partially urbanized beach can be divided into two well defined distinct areas: a natural section backed by a sand dune system to the East and an engineered section with rigid seawalls to the West. The objective of the present work is to evaluate if the engineered and natural sections of the beach present different morphological behaviors. The video image analysis was performed in two steps: First, sand bars were characterized visually and classified following standard classification schemes. Then, the outer sand bar migration was measured using automatic bar detection. Results show that the nearshore sandbars evolution covers a wide range of temporal and spatial variability. A noteworthy exception is the persistent presence of headland rips. The beach is mostly double-barred, with both bars able to go through all the states within the intermediate classification. The most common double bar morphological configuration is an inner low tide terrace coupled to well-developed megacusps, with an outer subtidal crescentic bar. Various preferred locations of rip channel formation are identified along the beach, suggesting that the effects of the headlands can propagate far away from the headlands towards the center of the embayment. Interestingly, the western engineered and more sheltered section of the beach sometimes exhibits a different beach state to that of the eastern section.
The Basque coastal area, in the southeastern Bay of Biscay, can be characterised as being strongl... more The Basque coastal area, in the southeastern Bay of Biscay, can be characterised as being strongly influenced by land climate. This, together with the presence of irregular and steep topography, complicates considerably the coastal water circulation patterns. Time-series of hourly currents, surface atmospheric pressure and wind data were analysed for two coastal stations. This research quantified the contribution of gravitational
... (201027. Galparsoro, I., Borja, Á., Legorburu, I., Hernández, C., Chust, G., Liria, P. and Ur... more ... (201027. Galparsoro, I., Borja, Á., Legorburu, I., Hernández, C., Chust, G., Liria, P. and Uriarte, A. 2010. ... Wave climate evolution in the Bay of Biscay over two decades. Journal of Marine Systems , 63(3–4): 105–114. [CrossRef], [Web of Science ®] View all references). ...
High energy events can cause coastal erosion on san dy beaches. The shore response to such events... more High energy events can cause coastal erosion on san dy beaches. The shore response to such events is de pendent on both external factors (e.g. wave characteristics) a nd intrinsic factors (e.g. beach state). In the pre sent work the response of an embayed/engineered beach to high energy events is studied. For that, systemically designed topog raphic surveys were undertaken before and after storm events. The data collected during those surveys were used to es timate the volumetric gain and loses along the beach and to cr eate intertidal maps by combining video monitoring images and field measured data. Results show that there is not a clear difference at the limit of the engineered a nd natural sections. However, profile and video observations of the diff erent sections of the beach indicate the existence of an alongshore variable response of the system.
Hourly and 12 km horizontal resolution wind fields simulated by the WRF model (Weather Research a... more Hourly and 12 km horizontal resolution wind fields simulated by the WRF model (Weather Research and Forecasting model) have been used to force the WAM model (WAve prediction Model), for a wave hindcast run in the southeastern Bay of Biscay. Three-hourly boundary conditions (defined by directional wave spectra) were provided by the WAVEWATCH III model, run by NOAA. The year 2009 was selected to analyse the performance of both wind and wave models in determining the parameters needed to estimate the wave energy resource. Model results were compared with available observations of six ocean-meteorological stations located in the area of interest. The WRF model was able to reproduce the time evolution of the offshore wind fields with a reasonable accuracy (a mean value of r 2 >0.6). However, close to the coastline, the analysis suggests that a higherhorizontal resolution configuration would be a more appropriate tool to estimate winds. Regarding the WAM model, the significant wave hei...
Environmental Problems in Coastal Regions VI, 2006
Ondarreta Beach is one of the most emblematic and visited beaches in the Basque Country. This bea... more Ondarreta Beach is one of the most emblematic and visited beaches in the Basque Country. This beach is part of La Concha bay, with Santa Clara Island in the middle of the bay and a semi submerged dike and reef in front of it. The combination of this morphology together with the tidal range in the area (max. springs 4.6m) results in a very particular wave climate. The beach contains different strata of sand, natural rocks and the remains of artificial structures. Therefore, rocks sometimes appear at the surface, depending on the changes of the beach profile. This situation harms the normal use of the beach and can be a risk for the users. During recent years this process has increased and, especially in the summer, a big part of the intertidal profile of the West part of the beach shows a gravely and rocky profile. In 2003, the town council of San Sebastian entrusted AZTI Foundation with the study of this beach. For this purpose AZTI planned the data analysis and the morphodynamic study of the evolution of the beach in three different time scales, in order to clarify whether the recent problems at the beach are an increasing erosive process, or part of a natural cycle. The three different time scales of analysis of morphodynamic processes taking place in this beach are:-Short term scale: wave data measurement and analysis, modeling of wave, current and sediment transport.-Medium term scale: analysis of seasonal equilibrium shape and profile.-Long term scale: analysis of morphodynamic evolution of the whole system (the bay). This analysis has contributed to the management of the beach, implying artificial seasonal sand movements, trying to encompass the natural processes and shoreline protection with the recreational use of the beach.
Traditional top-down and technocratic approaches seem to be insufficient to tackle the many confl... more Traditional top-down and technocratic approaches seem to be insufficient to tackle the many conflicts related to the sustainable use of natural resources. At the same time, reductionist and mono-disciplinary approaches lack the capacity to capture the complex interactions within ...
Global climate models have predicted a rise on mean sea level of between 0.18 m and 0.59 m by the... more Global climate models have predicted a rise on mean sea level of between 0.18 m and 0.59 m by the end of the 21st Century, with high regional variability. The objectives of this study are to estimate sea level changes in the Bay of Biscay during this century, and to assess the impacts of any change on Basque coastal habitats and infrastructures. Hence, ocean temperature projections for three climate scenarios, provided by several atmosphere-ocean coupled general climate models, have been extracted for the Bay of Biscay; these are used to estimate thermosteric sea level variations. The results show that, from 2001 to 2099, sea level within the Bay of Biscay will increase by between 28.5 and 48.7 cm, as a result of regional thermal expansion and global ice-melting, under scenarios A1B and A2 of the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change. A high-resolution digital terrain model, extracted from LiDAR, data was used to evaluate the potential impact of the estimated sea level rise to 9 coastal and estuarine habitats: sandy beaches and muds, vegetated dunes, shingle beaches, sea cliffs and supralittoral rock, wetlands and saltmarshes, terrestrial habitats, artificial land, piers, and water surfaces. The projected sea level rise of 48.7 cm was added to the high tide level of the coast studied, to generate a flood risk map of the coastal and estuarine areas. The results indicate that 110.8 ha of the supralittoral area will be affected by the end of the 21st Century; these are concentrated within the estuaries, with terrestrial and artificial habitats being the most affected. Sandy beaches are expected to undergo mean shoreline retreats of between 25% and 40%, of their width. The risk assessment of the areas and habitats that will be affected, as a consequence of the sea level rise, is potentially useful for local management to adopt adaptation measures to global climate change.
2015. Wave energy resource at bimep (Basque coast). Revista de Investigación Marina, AZTI, 22(4):... more 2015. Wave energy resource at bimep (Basque coast). Revista de Investigación Marina, AZTI, 22(4): 65-75 La serie 'Revista de Investigación Marina', editada por la Unidad de Investigación Marina de AZTI, cuenta con el siguiente Comité
EuskOOS is the Basque coastal operational oceanography system operated by Euskalmet (Basque Meteo... more EuskOOS is the Basque coastal operational oceanography system operated by Euskalmet (Basque Meteorological Agency) along with the expert advice of AZTI (a technology centre specialized in marine and food research). EuskOOS is designed to provide an accurate description of the current sea state conditions in the Basque coastal and oceanic area, offering ongoing forecasts of the near future sea conditions and supplying downstream services to both local and regional users. To address its objectives, EuskOOS is connected to other European initiatives in the oceanography field. EuskOOS is part of IBIROOS (Ireland-Biscay-Iberia Regional Operational Oceanographic System) and actively contributes to the EuroGOOS (European Global Ocean Observing System) strategy. EuskOOS also benefits from innovations and best practices coming from projects such as JERICO-NEXT (Joint European Research Infrastructure network for Coastal Observatory-Novel European eXpertise for coastal observaTories, Horizon 2020 Programme). EuskOOS is also collaborating with other eight coastal observatories along the Atlantic coast within the MyCOAST project (Coordinated Atlantic Coastal Operational Oceanographic Observatory, Interreg Atlantic Area Programme). In terms of observing capacities, EuskOOS is fed with a wide network of coastal and oceanic platforms provided by Euskalmet: high-frequency radar, deepwater buoy, coastal stations and tidal gauges. Besides, the operational oceanography system is supported with video-monitoring stations developed by AZTI. These stations provide highly valuable information for the prevention and management of extreme events, and the acquisition of morphodynamic coastal data for long-term analysis (i.e. climate change). The information produced is shared within European marine data structures, such as Emodnet and Copernicus Marine Service. At the same time, these facilities are used to optimize the downstream services. For the Basque local users, EuskOOS works as a walkway towards other sources of information distributed in such European marine structures. Oceans are key climate regulators as well as sources of natural resources. Likewise, they are crucial for tourism, transport and commerce. Therefore, our future depends to a large extent on the good environmental status of the oceans. To take care of it, access to both high-quality and high-resolution information that can be continuously shared through different marine data services is needed (i.e. efficient operational oceanography systems). This is the main objective of EuskOOS, whose data will be integrated into different services for different applications (e.g. blue economy, sustainable management of natural resources, biodiversity conservation). EuskOOS will contribute to the outreach of applications and opportunities based on coastal and oceanic data.
ABSTRACT De Santiago, I., Morichon, D., Abadie, S., Castelle, B., Liria, P. and Epelde, I., 2013.... more ABSTRACT De Santiago, I., Morichon, D., Abadie, S., Castelle, B., Liria, P. and Epelde, I., 2013. Video observation of the morphodynamics of nearshore sandbars on a partially engineered embayed beach. Embayed beaches are prevalent environments along the northern Spanish coastline. The present work analyses the temporal and spatial variability of nearshore sandbars on the pocket beach of Zarautz using daily video observations over 2 years. This partially urbanized beach can be divided into two well defined distinct areas: a natural section backed by a sand dune system to the East and an engineered section with rigid seawalls to the West. The objective of the present work is to evaluate if the engineered and natural sections of the beach present different morphological behaviors. The video image analysis was performed in two steps: First, sand bars were characterized visually and classified following standard classification schemes. Then, the outer sand bar migration was measured using automatic bar detection. Results show that the nearshore sandbars evolution covers a wide range of temporal and spatial variability. A noteworthy exception is the persistent presence of headland rips. The beach is mostly double-barred, with both bars able to go through all the states within the intermediate classification. The most common double bar morphological configuration is an inner low tide terrace coupled to well-developed megacusps, with an outer subtidal crescentic bar. Various preferred locations of rip channel formation are identified along the beach, suggesting that the effects of the headlands can propagate far away from the headlands towards the center of the embayment. Interestingly, the western engineered and more sheltered section of the beach sometimes exhibits a different beach state to that of the eastern section.
The Basque coastal area, in the southeastern Bay of Biscay, can be characterised as being strongl... more The Basque coastal area, in the southeastern Bay of Biscay, can be characterised as being strongly influenced by land climate. This, together with the presence of irregular and steep topography, complicates considerably the coastal water circulation patterns. Time-series of hourly currents, surface atmospheric pressure and wind data were analysed for two coastal stations. This research quantified the contribution of gravitational
... (201027. Galparsoro, I., Borja, Á., Legorburu, I., Hernández, C., Chust, G., Liria, P. and Ur... more ... (201027. Galparsoro, I., Borja, Á., Legorburu, I., Hernández, C., Chust, G., Liria, P. and Uriarte, A. 2010. ... Wave climate evolution in the Bay of Biscay over two decades. Journal of Marine Systems , 63(3–4): 105–114. [CrossRef], [Web of Science ®] View all references). ...
High energy events can cause coastal erosion on san dy beaches. The shore response to such events... more High energy events can cause coastal erosion on san dy beaches. The shore response to such events is de pendent on both external factors (e.g. wave characteristics) a nd intrinsic factors (e.g. beach state). In the pre sent work the response of an embayed/engineered beach to high energy events is studied. For that, systemically designed topog raphic surveys were undertaken before and after storm events. The data collected during those surveys were used to es timate the volumetric gain and loses along the beach and to cr eate intertidal maps by combining video monitoring images and field measured data. Results show that there is not a clear difference at the limit of the engineered a nd natural sections. However, profile and video observations of the diff erent sections of the beach indicate the existence of an alongshore variable response of the system.
Hourly and 12 km horizontal resolution wind fields simulated by the WRF model (Weather Research a... more Hourly and 12 km horizontal resolution wind fields simulated by the WRF model (Weather Research and Forecasting model) have been used to force the WAM model (WAve prediction Model), for a wave hindcast run in the southeastern Bay of Biscay. Three-hourly boundary conditions (defined by directional wave spectra) were provided by the WAVEWATCH III model, run by NOAA. The year 2009 was selected to analyse the performance of both wind and wave models in determining the parameters needed to estimate the wave energy resource. Model results were compared with available observations of six ocean-meteorological stations located in the area of interest. The WRF model was able to reproduce the time evolution of the offshore wind fields with a reasonable accuracy (a mean value of r 2 >0.6). However, close to the coastline, the analysis suggests that a higherhorizontal resolution configuration would be a more appropriate tool to estimate winds. Regarding the WAM model, the significant wave hei...
Environmental Problems in Coastal Regions VI, 2006
Ondarreta Beach is one of the most emblematic and visited beaches in the Basque Country. This bea... more Ondarreta Beach is one of the most emblematic and visited beaches in the Basque Country. This beach is part of La Concha bay, with Santa Clara Island in the middle of the bay and a semi submerged dike and reef in front of it. The combination of this morphology together with the tidal range in the area (max. springs 4.6m) results in a very particular wave climate. The beach contains different strata of sand, natural rocks and the remains of artificial structures. Therefore, rocks sometimes appear at the surface, depending on the changes of the beach profile. This situation harms the normal use of the beach and can be a risk for the users. During recent years this process has increased and, especially in the summer, a big part of the intertidal profile of the West part of the beach shows a gravely and rocky profile. In 2003, the town council of San Sebastian entrusted AZTI Foundation with the study of this beach. For this purpose AZTI planned the data analysis and the morphodynamic study of the evolution of the beach in three different time scales, in order to clarify whether the recent problems at the beach are an increasing erosive process, or part of a natural cycle. The three different time scales of analysis of morphodynamic processes taking place in this beach are:-Short term scale: wave data measurement and analysis, modeling of wave, current and sediment transport.-Medium term scale: analysis of seasonal equilibrium shape and profile.-Long term scale: analysis of morphodynamic evolution of the whole system (the bay). This analysis has contributed to the management of the beach, implying artificial seasonal sand movements, trying to encompass the natural processes and shoreline protection with the recreational use of the beach.
Traditional top-down and technocratic approaches seem to be insufficient to tackle the many confl... more Traditional top-down and technocratic approaches seem to be insufficient to tackle the many conflicts related to the sustainable use of natural resources. At the same time, reductionist and mono-disciplinary approaches lack the capacity to capture the complex interactions within ...
Global climate models have predicted a rise on mean sea level of between 0.18 m and 0.59 m by the... more Global climate models have predicted a rise on mean sea level of between 0.18 m and 0.59 m by the end of the 21st Century, with high regional variability. The objectives of this study are to estimate sea level changes in the Bay of Biscay during this century, and to assess the impacts of any change on Basque coastal habitats and infrastructures. Hence, ocean temperature projections for three climate scenarios, provided by several atmosphere-ocean coupled general climate models, have been extracted for the Bay of Biscay; these are used to estimate thermosteric sea level variations. The results show that, from 2001 to 2099, sea level within the Bay of Biscay will increase by between 28.5 and 48.7 cm, as a result of regional thermal expansion and global ice-melting, under scenarios A1B and A2 of the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change. A high-resolution digital terrain model, extracted from LiDAR, data was used to evaluate the potential impact of the estimated sea level rise to 9 coastal and estuarine habitats: sandy beaches and muds, vegetated dunes, shingle beaches, sea cliffs and supralittoral rock, wetlands and saltmarshes, terrestrial habitats, artificial land, piers, and water surfaces. The projected sea level rise of 48.7 cm was added to the high tide level of the coast studied, to generate a flood risk map of the coastal and estuarine areas. The results indicate that 110.8 ha of the supralittoral area will be affected by the end of the 21st Century; these are concentrated within the estuaries, with terrestrial and artificial habitats being the most affected. Sandy beaches are expected to undergo mean shoreline retreats of between 25% and 40%, of their width. The risk assessment of the areas and habitats that will be affected, as a consequence of the sea level rise, is potentially useful for local management to adopt adaptation measures to global climate change.
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