Papers by Georgina Ripley
Costume Society of America, Sep 24, 2020
Once radically dividing critics with his lace shirts and knee-high boots for men. J W Anderson... more Once radically dividing critics with his lace shirts and knee-high boots for men. J W Anderson's conscious cross-pollination of menswearm and womenswear elements has earned his eponymous label a cult following, precipitating a dizzying ascent. In 2013, LVMH investment in his label coincided with his appointment as Creative Director of the Madrid luxury house, Loewe, where his ingenious interweaving of the masculine and feminine has brought modernity and vigour to the heritage brand. With feminised menswear now a pervasive trend at fashion weeks, Anderson's oeuvre reflects how gender ambiguity is a broader cultural issue. The article explores Anderson's agenda-setting designs as a catalyst for provocative experimentation in menswear, and how his singular vision is redefining notions of masculinity on the catwalk.
Stacked soles have been around since the ancient Greeks now they’re stomping down the catwalks ag... more Stacked soles have been around since the ancient Greeks now they’re stomping down the catwalks again. The fashion curator Georgina Ripley charts the history of the high-rise shoe.
Fashion, Society, and the First World War, 2021
Critical Studies in Men’s Fashion, 2020
Scottish-born stylist, Ray Petri, founder of the maverick Buffalo Collective, defined the look an... more Scottish-born stylist, Ray Petri, founder of the maverick Buffalo Collective, defined the look and feel of radical 1980s fashion magazines such as i-D, The Face and Arena. The Buffalo Boy look pioneered a more sexually ambiguous form of fashion iconography, undermining the putative immutability of normative codes of gender and sexuality and communicating a new image of masculinity. Previous conviction that the Buffalo spirit died with its founder has been upended by a new generation tapping into the Buffalo legacy, notably British-Ghanaian photographer, model-casting agent and publisher, Campbell Addy, and West African stylist, Ibrahim Kamara – both former interns of original Buffalo Collective members. This article explores how Addy and Kamara’s imagery interrogates the fragile relationship between menswear and masculinity, underpinned by intersectional issues of sex, race, faith and identity. Breaking down the construct of hegemonic masculinity, this article compares contemporary ...
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Papers by Georgina Ripley