Deathwatch 005: Sculping Text

MasterSlowPoke asked me in the comments to the last installment of the Deathwatch Contemptor how I go about sculpting the text in the greenstuff. Here is a brief tutorial on how I went about the process for the single line of text on the Contemptor forearm.

First I marked out where I wanted the text to go. Using a sharp blade and a file I carefully removed a channel about 1/32" deep and 1/16" wide.

Once the channel was ready I mixed a bit of greenstuff and rolled it into a tube, then worked it into the channel. Using the edge of the blade on my sculpting tool I marked out the blocks for individual letters. Next I used a pick to make indents in the blocks. If you squint it says +ORDOXENOS. My tools for this are pictured above, the standard GW sculpting tool and a dental pick.

For the lines of text on the shoulder pad I performed basically the same process. I ended up with what looks like lines of text.

I hope this helps anyone who has a Deathwatch conversion, or Astartes army for that matter, in mind.

Cheers,

CJ

Hobby: Wet Palette

I decided I wanted to try using a wet palette since this wasn't really doing it for me anymore. So on my latest trip out for supplies I earmarked a tenner for this project.

I picked up a roll of parchment paper ($3.50), some left over bins ($2.98), and some basic sponges ($1.30) needed for the project. Snow-monster helps open the sponges... and every other packet of anything with seals like that.

I cut two sponges to fit comfortably in the left overs bin. Then I cut a piece of parchment paper off and trimmed it down so it covered the sponges nicely.

Just add water and the end result is a palette that ought to keep my paints at ready when I need to pause the action.

Now I get to figure out how exactly this thing works.

Cheers,

CJ

Tutorial: Basing and Real Rust

The Girl and I went on a walk today, and our adventure took us to a park with crushed slate walks and an iron heavy river that happens to be running low. Seeing opportunity in the low state of the water, I gathered up some chunks of bark that had nice deposits from the receding waterline. I also took the time to gather some handfuls of crushed slate that had escaped the path proper.

The crushed slate is going to be used to add some variety to my selection of basing materials. I think the rust powder left behind on the pieces of bark will be good for adding rust effects to whatever needs it.

Using a sculpting tool helped get the rust off the bark with out taking off too much of the bark surface with it. The piece I scraped is roughly 1.5" square, and I got a nice little pile for my work. You can see the difference between the scraped bark and the one with rust still there.

I decided I needed to experiment with this rust powder right away, so I fished out one of my miscast industrial bases. I added some sand and crushed slate, then painted it up.

Then I added some of the rust powder. I used some acrylic floor wax (Future) to fix it in place, and while it was still wet I added a bit more powder. After the Future dried the powder was pretty much set. I pained the raised bits of the diamond plating and washed all the metal with custom rust colored wash. The outcome is pretty nice over all. I think it will take a couple tries to get process down. I have a few of these miscast bases; the product of a rushed mould. I'll kick out a few more and get it all worked out.

Stay tuned. Until then, cheers.

CJ

Hobby: Paint Kebabs

This is my paint kebab block. This great rectangle of styrofoam came as packing materials in some parcel or other. I originally thought of carving it up and using it for terrain, and left it on my desk, hoping inspiration would strike... While I was not disappointed, I was a bit surprised.

I don't know exactly which project I started using paint kebabs on. They are my low cost solution to using corks (the wine I like doesn't have a cork). I do know that every time I need more it takes less than 5 minutes to whip a few up.

This is all it takes to create a few to start.

One bamboo skewer can be cut into four paint kebabs. I just clip them to approximately equal length with my beat up sprue cutters. One paint kebab will have a pointy end installed already, the other three pieces I just whittle to points with my stencil knife.

Next I bore a hole in the other end to receive a length of floral wire, then secure the wire in place with a dab of super glue.

Voilà. They really are simple. When they wear down or break I can just craft some new ones. Same thing if I need more for a project.

One of the inherent benefits of using wires for this purpose is that when its time for a wash to be applied, I can position the bit in such a way that it mimics the final spot on a model it will hold. In my opinion this helps the overall cohesiveness of a figure painted in pieces.

I'm off to work on some flamer troops.

Cheers,

CJ

Tutorial: Power Cables from Floral Wire

A few weeks ago, A Sent One asked in a comment how I make power cables from wrapped floral wire. In this post I will explain the process.

Here is an example of one of these power cables in action. This method is by no means unique. I came up with the idea as a theoretical one day, 'Can I make my own power cables from wire?' while I was twisting up some razor wire sections. Eventually I tried it out when I needed some power cable for a conversion. It worked, and so I never looked back.

I get these spools of floral wire from Michael's for something like $2. The green is 22 GA and the silver is 30 GA. The 22 GA works great for armatures for sculpting, as well as being my go to pinning wire.

I wrap the 30 GA wire around the 22 GA wire, holding the end with a pair of needle nose pliers. I pinch the wire to the shaft with my left hand, then turn the shaft with my right. Once I build up enough coil, I can twist it without having to grip it in the pliers.

Three inches finished in a few minutes. Once you get the hang of it, the process is pretty simple.

Cheers,
-CJ

Throwback Thursday - Warcrafting Mordheim

Once upon a time my group played Mordheim.  Here is how I created the bases for my warband.

I used 2 part Alumilite Silicone RTV to make my mould.  It comes in 1lb packages, 14.4 oz of silicone and 1.6 oz of catalyst.  Its a 10:1, which are what the measuring cups are for.  2oz of silicone to one *portion* of catalyst, which is what the little cup and scoop are for.

Here is my positive, of which I will make a negative - my mould.

I used a small amount of superglue to fix the bases to the tin, then I did a displacement test to see how much silicone I would need to fill the mould.  The bigger the mould the more important this becomes, but it comes down to volume, which is l*(h*w).  This is easy when your mould doesn't have round corners.  In the same token doing a displacement test on a larger project becomes more work than worth since you have to have a completely dry positive.  I used my silicone cup and filled it to the 1oz mark, then poured it into the positive, repeating it until its full.  I need 3oz of silicone RTV for this mould.  The tin is deep enough so that the highest point of the piece is covered by .25" of silicone.

I mixed the silicone and poured it, and then left it over night.  Here is the finished product.

Once you have a mould you need something to put in it; in this case two part epoxy resin.  Following the instructions on the kit, I microwaved the mould until it was 140ºF, then mixed equal amounts of the A and B halves of the resin for 25 seconds.  Then I poured into the mould.  The mould has to be warm to offset the heat generated by the resin curing.  In these small square bases, I don't think it would matter too much, but in large more complex pieces, or thinner pieces the casting heat can cause warpage in the pieces.  After three minutes, the new bases were finished and I popped them out of the mould.

The finished, non-distressed bases.  Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures of the finished distressed run.

Cheers til next time.
-Xi

p.s.  sorry we're a day late with this one.