Archive for the 'miniature-wargames' Category

2025 Update

Keeping a blog up to date is very hard. Hats off to those who have the discipline to put up quality posts on a regular basis. I am not one of those people…

Anyway, I hope 2025 has been good to all of you. A lot has changed since the last time I posted and I thought I’d share a quick update.

The biggest change is that I’ve moved to a new house! We are now empty nesters and built a new home in the southwest Twin Cities metro area suitable for the way we want to live that will also allow us to age in place. From a gaming perspective I have a new, dedicated hobby room that is large enough to hold my painting table, all of my wargaming supplies and host a permanent game table as well. I plan on building a new table or set of tables that will allow me to have at least a 6′ x 8′ gaming space and possibly larger. I have my painting desk set up but everything else is still a jumble of boxes right now. Getting that in order is my fall project once we sell our old place and finish the main floor decorating.

Beyond that, I’ve continued gaming on a regular basis at a friend’s house, focusing on 15mm WWII, 15mm ACW and other games on a rotating basis. We’ve played Chain of Command 2 in 28mm a few times and really enjoyed it. I may look at doing 1940 Germans and/or Brits to go along with another local gamer’s plans for it.

For my personal projects, I continue working on grand plan for big battalion 28mm Napoleonics. I’ve amassed a decent-sized French army now with 13 battalions of painted infantry and a 6-pd foot artillery battery ready to go. I have some light cavalry in the painting queue and plenty more infantry to work on after that. I’m glad I have a backlog to work through as the current US administration’s tariff plans are throwing a wrench in the miniature wargaming business with many UK manufacturers pausing sales to the US until the new customs setup crystalizes. An unfortunate situation that is hopefully temporary.

I plan on experimenting with slap chop and similar techniques to produce more infantry units quickly. I have enough French to run a decent game but need opposing forces. A local gamer has some Austrians he’s working on and I will either augment that or work on some Russians.

I also have a small number of units for the Great Northern War in 28mm. I have two Swedish and two Russian infantry regiments right now and am planning on using “Beneath the Lily Banners” or possibly Simon Miller’s new “Lust for Glory” rules once they are available.

Finally I caved and bought the latest Warhammer 30K starter box and hope to build some troops to play that. The new FLGS in my area is very GW-focused from a miniatures perspective so I would like to find some other locals to play with. 30K is “almost” historical wargaming so maybe I could find some converts along the way. 🙂

Anyways that’s it for now. If you’re in the Twin Cities, MN area and are interested in any of the projects I mentioned, do get in touch.

28mm Napoleonics Taking Off

Happy February everyone.

A quick update on things. My company reorganized at the beginning of the year and the new role is taking up a lot of time & energy, so while I am painting it is going at a slower pace than desired. My new local gaming friend Chris is amassing an Austrian Horde at a quick clip via purchasing painted minis online and I have started doing the same. I purchased three battalions of French infantry (36 figures each) off the ‘Bay in recent weeks and now am only a command stand and maybe another battalion away from having my first brigade ready to go. I’m continuing to look at painted miniatures online as well as some painting services to help increase the number of infantry battalions quickly.

Purchasing painted minis online requires patience, especially if you’re particular about how the models are painted like I am. There are plenty of painting services and individuals out there selling the Warlord and Perry plastics painted to a “tabletop” standard, but in many cases either the painting is really rough or they are using contrast paint to get things done faster. While I use contrast paint myself for certain things I find they are best used for fleshtones or very textured surfaces. Using them on large flat areas isn’t to my liking, and since most of the contrast-ish ranges are designed for fantasy or sci-fi use cases, with the blues and reds being way too saturated and vivid for use with historical miniatures in my opinion. As an aside, I think the Citadel and Army Painter browns are for the most part fantastic and I use Citadel Black Templar a lot as well.

So I keep on painting and scrolling through eBay, various online market places and Facebook groups and occasionally find something that appeals to me and is in the price range I’m willing to pay. If it helps me get a force together sooner, all the better.

I’m hoping to be able to put games on this spring. There are a variety of rules I’d like to try out including General d’Armee (I just pre-ordered the 2nd edition set from TFL), Black Powder and Valor & Fortitude. All of them bring different benefits and I’m curious to see which one(s) become preferred.

That’s all for now.

More WIP French

I’ve been busy painting more Napoleonics this month. A quick post to show some more of the Perry Miniatures plastic 1807-12 line infantry. They take longer to assemble but you can get some great poses from the kit.

This picture was taken with the minis right under my painting lamp so I could get a decent shot. It’s a very cool light and the blues look a lot brighter than they are under normal lighting.

These minis are almost done. A few more details to pick out and some messes to be cleaned up. Overall I’m pretty pleased with how they are turning out. I think I can complete a battalion or equivalent per month at this quality which is good enough for me.

Getting Started – 28mm Napoleonics

I blame Peter Gilder.

I’ve been fascinated with the Napoleonic period since I was a teenager. Even before I knew much about the history or personalities of the era, I was entranced thanks to the full color pictures of 36-figure French battalions crashing into Russian infantry at Borodino in an issue of Miniature Wargames (issue 23 if memory serves). Figure availability. budget and existing collections of other gamers in my area meant that I started with 15mm models and happily gamed with them for a long time. All the while I would linger over any pictures of 25/30mm Napoleonics in the latest issue of Miniature Wargames and, later, Wargames Illustrated.

Fast forward over 20 years and while I haven’t played much Napoleonics in the intervening decades, I have continued to be fascinated by the period, collecting rules and history books more than miniatures but staying invested just enough to keep the dream alive while telling myself that someday I would be ready. Well, that day is apparently today.

My previous forestalled attempt to jump into 28mm Napoleonics had me doing Russians to play with local gamers Jason & Eric (details at https://immervorwarts.blogspot.com/). I still would like to do Russians, but for now I am starting with French for 1813. Hard to do the period without them, and I’m not sure how fast another French player may pop up since for now at least it’s just Jason & I doing the planning.

I’ve got enough models at home right now for 8-10 infantry battalions of 24 models. That’s either full strength at 1:30 or field strength at 1:20. Either way the rules I’m looking at don’t really pay attention to model counts so 24 is a good compromise between having a real unit on the table while also not taking up as much tabletop space.

Painting

I had a box of the Perry French infantry in pre-Bardin uniforms that I put together over the last few months. Lovely figures, but more parts to clip, sand and assemble than their original FN100 box or the Warlord French. After a getting the models assembled I’ve black-primed them and drybrushed them with a light grey to try and save some work dealing with white straps laying over the white plastron of the French Ligne infantry jacket.

Here are a few test figures done. I’m aiming for detail that will show up at 3 feet distance while also reducing painting time as much as possible. I did the best taking photos with a makeshift lightbox.

Two Voltigeurs & 2 Eagle Guards

The coats are Pro-Acryl Dark Blue with a highlight of 50/50 Dark Blue & Vallejo Prussian Blue and sparse highlights of pure Prussian Blue. This gives the coat some definition without lightening the overall tone too much.

Voltigeur Command

Here’s a few more Voltigeurs that could be a command base for a unit in skirmish order. The different parts in the Perry box allow you a good degree of freedom in posing models. Here we have a sergeant trying to get his unit’s attention along with a bugler trying to tell his squad mates to slow down.

The painting guide I used for color inspiration used cool grey tones for the white pants and straps. Since these are rank & file minis versus ones that will get a lot of individual inspection I went for only a base/wash/single highlight versus going for a triad approach. I used Vallejo Sky Grey for the base, washed the model with the new Pro-Acryl Black Wash, which is fantastic IMO and then highlighted with a mix of Sky Grey and White. It looks good and the whites pop with the black lining. It does lead to a very cool white to go along with the cool blue and black that makes up the rest of the model. I am going to experiment with a warmer white based on Deck Tan as well.

A couple of fusiliers.

Finally, here are a few Fusiliers. Same basic approach other than not having to worry about swords or fringy epaulettes. I’m happy with how these models turned out and now I’m trying to tweak the color palette a little bit and work on speeding up production. My initial goal is to complete a battalion each month. If more gets done it will be a bonus.

I’ll post my monthly progress and try to post more pics here as a way of keeping myself accountable and on-track.

All About the Blues – French Napoleonic Infantry Coat Colors

I’ve finally started my 28mm Napoleonic project and while I do plan on doing Russians at some point, I’m starting out with some French as you really can’t really game the Napoleonic period without them, After spending some time cleaning and assembling a box Perry French Infantry, I started looking at how I wanted to paint them. For me, the main bugaboo with French Infantry is painting all of the white straps and belts that go over the white chest piece of the tunic. Having proper definition between components is important, but I also don’t want to spend more time than necessary to get it done since I’m looking at having to paint 100’s of models.

After trying the normal black prime route, I don’t think I’ll be doing that for the rank & file at least. You can get very crisp definition between straps, belts and coats, but at the price of doing multiple layers of precise painting with detail brushes. I don’t have time for that. The next experiment will probably be giving the models an all-over coat of Vallejo Sky Grey, which is what I’m using as the base color for all of the white areas right now and then using a wash of some sort to get the definition/separation I’m looking for. The new Pro-Acryl Black Wash looks very promising and I’m going to try and acquire a bottle and see how it works.

On to the main subject of the post.

French fusiliers wore blue coats for most of the Napoleonic period (excepting the white uniforms issued in 1806/7), but what shade of blue is the right one? This is really a trick question for a variety of reasons:

  • The proper shade of new French blue coats would be something very dark. Indigo was used to dye the wool and a new coat would be a very dark blue indeed. At 28mm scale this would look more or less like black on the tabletop. I would like something that actually shows up as blue on the game table.
  • The actual color of the coats would vary from dye lot to dye lot. Assuming every new coat would be dyed the exact same color is probably wishful thinking.
  • Once the troops were in the field for any length of time, sun, rain and dirt would quickly do their work on the coat and you would likely see something lighter and faded on a majority of the troops.

This is a long way of saying pick the blue that you like…. it should be something dark blue versus royal blue or light blue, but choose something that appeals to you. They’re your models so paint to please yourself and not some random person on the internet.

I’ve assembled a number of blue paints over time and these were the ones I looked at. This is a non-comprehensive list and consists of paints from the lines I can easily buy in stores here in the Twin Cities. I didn’t look at Citadel or Army Painter paints but there would be suitable choices in both lines.

The Usual Suspects

From left to right:

  • Pro-Acryl Dark Blue
  • Pro-Acryl Blue Black
  • Pro-Acryl Payne’s Grey
  • Vallejo Game Color Night Blue
  • Vallejo Game Color Imperial Blue
  • Vallejo Model Color Dark Prussian Blue
  • Vallejo Model Color Prussian Blue

I’ve used Vallejo Model Color paints for decades and Dark Prussian Blue used to be my default choice for French Napoleonic blue, albeit for 15/18mm models in the past. The new formula Vallejo Game Color paints show promise and dry very matte. Finally the Pro-Acryl paints from Monument Hobbies are becoming a new favorite of mine. Very fluid, excellent opacity, they airbrush really well and dry matte.

Here’s the experiment I ran. The control stripe across the top is a common base layer I see for “Napoleonic Blue” – a mix of 75% VMC Prussian Blue / 25% Black (I used Pro-Acryl Coal Black). The ratio is approximate based on ‘drops’ of paint… every time I mix it it’s a little different, but that’s OK, especially for depicting pre-industrial revolution clothing.

Results

The paint was applied on the back of a white envelope that was at hand. Photo was taken using warm interior lighting on my iPhone. Handwriting by a real adult regardless of how it looks. 🙂

A few opinions:

  • VGC Imperial Blue and VMC Dark Prussian Blue are almost identical with Dark Prussian Blue being slightly darker.
  • VGC Night Blue is a very dark but very saturated blue. It’s the most ‘blue’ of the 4 candidates on the left.
  • Payne’s Grey is a dark grey with blue overtones. It’s a great addition to Pro-Acryl’s line and something you don’t see in miniature paint lines often.
  • Blue Black is really a very dark grey with a blue tone mixed in. A lot of people plan to use it with 40K Space Marines as a zenithal highlight for black armor. I think it would work great for that.
  • In my opinion I think the Pro-Acryl Dark Blue is the closest to the control color. A little less black perhaps but pretty close.

I’m going to use the Pro-Acryl Dark Blue for my base color. In all honesty though I think you can’t go wrong with any of the 4 candidates on the left. Once you apply more layers you won’t see much of it and it won’t make much of a difference in the overall paint scheme.

I’d been looking for a base color I could use straight out of the bottle since I don’t normally use a wet palette and I’m lazy. I thought this quick experiment was useful and I hope you find it of interest as well.

Clearing the Backlog

Like many other minatures gamers, I suffer from the curse of finding way too many projects interesting and pivoting from one project to the next and ending up with a half-dozen unfinished projects and nothing ready to play games with. In the intervening time since I was last updating this blog on a regular basis I kept on buying miniatures and even occasionally painting some. Right now, though, my painting table is clogged with a bunch of stuff that’s half-completed and that has to be cleared up before I launch into something new.

A quick spoiler for the future – I’ve been purchasing rules sets and starting to acquire models for my long-dreamed-of but never started 28mm Napoleonics project. As much as I want to start working on them, they will have to wait.

My current focus is on my Bolt Action British force. In the last week I’ve managed to get a 10-man infantry section 95% completed, mostly while being logged into one of the many remote meetings I have on my daily work schedule. Ones where you have to attend but you’re mostly listening and don’t have much to contribute. The joys of remote work. One of the things I’m working on is getting a faster yet good-looking paint job on my models. For this batch of infantry, I left my jewelers’ visor downstairs and just focused on painting what I could see with a good light and my normal glasses. By utilizing better brush control and using washes tactically versus sloshing it everywhere like I used to, I managed to get a paint job I’m happy with in 5-6 hours of work for the section. I’ll post pics in a future post once the bases and final touchups are done.

I like painting and am pretty good at it. With the advent of YouTube and the proliferation of YouTubers that paint professionally to a very high level of detail and quality, I (like many others) have watched these videos and tried to emulate the processes shown in the tutorials that are out there. One one hand, they have helped me get better as a painted. On the other hand, I spent many more hours than I should have on rank & file models trying to build bright colors up from a black primer base, doing multiple layers of edge highlighting, blending smooth transitions, etc. The resultant models look great, but took forever to produce. The details pop out and look good in up-close photos you might post on a blog or your Twitter/Instagram feed. However, with my normal eyesight, I can’t see any of it when those models are on the game table, so why am I spending all that time on them? If I was building a skirmish force for a game like Infinity or Kill Team, I could see doing that still. Those armies have small model counts, and each figure is unique and has a different role to play in the game. When you’re looking at large model count games like 40K (I play Orks) or big-battle Napoleonics, trying to produce that level of detail across the board is folly in my opinion.

With that in mind, I keep reminding myself I’m not painting for the Internet. I’m not a social media influencer, I’m not trying to make a living or even a side hustle (I hate that term BTW) by monetizing a YouTube channel or running a Patreon site. If the models look good to me at three feet distance, that’s going to be good enough in most cases.

With that in mind, I’m going to try and crank out the rest of the Bolt Action Brits in short order. I’ll probably need to order more infantry and another support vehicle or two to get to the normal force sizes (1250 seems common?). But I can get a full platoon of infantry with supports and my motorpoll done relatively fast and start playing some games this fall.

After that, I have some random 40K Ork and AoS Ironjaws models I need to finish. I’m 15 Brutes away from having a starter Ironjawz army done, and I have some Ork walkers and some stormboyz to finish up.

In between that I have more Battletech minis to paint up. I’m not going for a complex paint scheme (Lyran Donegal Guards FTW) with them so they will be pretty quick to complete.

I also have an Orcs & Goblins 3d-printed army for Warmaster that needs to get moving, Lots of models, but at that size and scale, I’m going for a more impressionistic look versus trying to paint all the details well. I’ve seen some painters online post amazingly detailed units out at this scale. That won’t be me.

Once the Bolt Action and 40K/AoS stuff is completed, then it’ll be time for the next big project to get started. There are a couple of candidates out there. I did pick up the new Horus Heresy started box as a number of friends locally seem into it. There’s also Napoleonics on the horizon, too.

Signs of Life – Part 2

Greetings. I’m performing a bit of online necromancy to try and resurrect this blog from it’s long slumber. I had plans to try and jumpstart my hobbying and gaming activities the last time I posted in 2019, and then life happened in some very unexpected ways. New Job, caring for sick family members, dealing with loss and then the pandemic hit. Needless to say it was a lot and for the last few years it was all I could do to simply keep my head above water and keep moving forward. For the last few years I spent most of my free time doing relatively mindless things as I usually expended most of my mental bandwidth on my job and family.

Fast forward to 2022 and things seem to be clearing up. The job is still there with all of its demands, but otherwise things appear to be moving to a ‘new normal’ as it were and I’m finding more energy and desire to do more with my free time than simply trying to keep my favorite chair from floating off into the universe. We bought a lake place last year and I’ve been spending most of my weekends since then learning how to be a better fisherman during open water season (i.e. roughly April – October each year here in the upper Midwest USA). I find it relaxing and challenging at the same time and keep getting slightly better at inconveniencing the largemouth bass that live in my lake. Sadly, we are approaching the end of the open water fishing season and over the next month I need to make plans to get the boat to its winter storage, pull the dock out of the water and get ready for the onset of winter.

I like fishing, but not enough to want to spend winter days out on the ice so I’m looking for other outlets for my creative energy and spare time. As always, thoughts drift back to miniatures gaming, as it’s been part of my life for 40 years now. With that in mind, I’m starting to work on projects, get my hobby desk back in some semblance of order and hopefully get enough of a force to start doing some gaming again.

I’ve got a lot of figures and projects in the proverbial backlog. Overall I am tending towards larger figures again for the most part due to the fact that I have always preferred the larger scales, but also due to the fact that I’m getting older and my eyesight isn’t what it used to be. The challenge for me will be to be OK with a good paintjob on models versus putting on the magnifiers and trying to block, shade & highlight everything. The quality of figures being produced keeps on getting better, and it can be hard to fight the urge to work on every detail you can see up close.

A few projects I’m working on right now:

  • Late War British for Bolt Action – I’m working on a force based on the Guards Armored Division for Normandy through Market Garden. The new Warlord plastics are quite good.
  • Battletech – I used to play this frequently back in the pre-Clan invasion days and continued to do so until around 2000. I regret selling off my old Ral Partha mechs back in the day but have been collecting the new Catalyst Game Labs models and they are quite good. I have a few lances of Donegal Guards ready for the tabletop and even managed to play a game earlier this year with them. Hoping to do more.
  • Warmaster – A friend of mine has access to the new hi-def resin 3d printers and I am slowly working on Orcs and Goblins for Warmaster. The quality of these 3d sculpts can be amazing.
  • Napoleonics in 28mm – Ever the dream. More on that later.
  • 28mm Republican Romans – I have a few boxes of the Victrix models that I was thinking of using for Saga, SPQR or eventually something like To The Strongest. It’s back-burnered for now,

I’m hoping to use this blog as motivation for me to stick to projects and get them done. If others find it and keep reading, that’s a bonus. Thanks for reading and I am planning on having new posts more often than every three years. 🙂

1813 Project Order of Battle

Having committed to the new 1813 project described by Immer Vorwarts, I started looking at an order of battle to model.  Jason & Eric are focusing on units that fought at Mockern in the fall of 1813 as part of the Battle of Nations (Leipzig).  Since I’m building Russians that means units from Blucher’s Army of Silesia.

I’ve chosen to build units from Langeron’s “Corps Group.”  These are units that are remnants from the army that fought at Borodino the previous year and have followed the French all the way back into Germany.  My starting force will be St. Priests’ VIII Corps.  The entire Corps had around 8,000 infantrymen at Mockern, so this will be manageable organization to start building.

A quick aside about unit strengths:  Regardless of what a full ‘paper strength’ battalion may have looked like to Napoleonic era war planners, after a few months in the field, an average infantry battalion would likely be around 500 men.   In the period we are modeling (the latter half of the 1813 campaign), the field armies were even further under-strength from a year of more or less constant campaigning, casualties, sickness, desertion, etc.

So, I’m looking at St. Priest’s Corps.  One thing I love about the Russian army is that the commanders are a hodge-podge of Russians, Germans, and other Europeans.  In this case, both Comte Langeron and Comte St. Priest were French emigres, former Bourbon loyalists whose families fled France during the revolution.  So we have French generals fighting against French generals.  How perfectly Napoleonic, eh?

There are a number of different places to find orders of battle on the internet.  My favorite is the Nafziger collection, which was donated to the US Army War College a few years back.  George Nafziger did a tremendous job collecting orders of battle, and included individual unit strengths where he could.  This is a boon to the historical wargamers.

Here’s St. Priest’s VIII Corps organization from the Allied Order of Battle at Leipzig:

8th Corps: Generallieutenant Count St.-Priest

11th Division: Generalmajor Prince Gourialov
Brigade: Colonel Turgenev

  • Ekaterinburg Infantry Regiment (2)(936)
  • Rilsk Infantry Regiment (1)(564)

Brigade: Generalmajor Karpenko

  • Jeletz Infantry Regiment (1)(526)
  • Polotsk Infantry Regiment (1)(571)

Brigade: Generalmajor Bistrom II

  • 1st Jager Regiment (1)(478)
  • 33rd Jager Regiment (2)(527)

17th Division: Generalmajor Pillar
Brigade: Colonel Kern

  • Riazan Infantry Regiment (2)(670)
  • Bieloserk Infantry Regiment (2)(705)

Brigade: Colonel Tscherioff I

  • Wilmanstrand Infantry Regiment (2)(566)
  • Brest Infantry Regiment (2)(746)

Brigade: Major Charitanov

  • 30th Jager Regiment (2)(472)
  • 48th Jager Regiment (2)(913)

Corps Artillery:

  • Position Battery #32 (12 guns)(270)
  • Light Battery #32 (12 guns)(176)
  • Light Battery #33 (12 guns)(155)

Corps Cavalry:
Brigade: Generalmajor Borozdin II

  • Mitau Dragoon Regiment (4)(458)
  • New Russia Dragoon Regiment (4)(377)

Brigade: Generalmajor Emanuel

  • Kharkov Dragoon Regiment (4)(484)
  • Moscow Dragoon Regiment (2)(250)

Cossacks: Generalmajor Kaisarov

  • Gzov #2 Cossack Regiment (194)
  • Stavrapol Kalmuck Regiment (298)
  • Grekov #21 Cossack Regiment (317)

A few notes:

  • The 11th division is the remnants of Docturov’s VI Corps from the Battle of Borodino.  One nice thing about the Russian army is that it was consistent with its numbering.  Divisional organizations were fairly permanent even if the divisions themselves shifted between corps over time.  Check the OB for Borodino and compare divisional numbers.
  • Likewise, the 17th division was in Baggovout’s II Corps at Borodino.  The organization hasn’t changed much, other than that the units are much smaller.
  • Much like the French, Russian light infantry units (Jagers) could operate either as formed infantry or skirmishers.  Russian light infantry gets a bad rap from some Napoleonic rules writers.  While not as skilled as the best French or British units, the low-numbered Jager regiments had been in existence for some time and spent a lot of time fighting the Turks, so they were experienced in skirmish operations.  The 1st Jager regiment was considered one of the finest in the Russian army at the time.
  • Looking at the unit strengths, there are numerous cases of regiments having two battalions but only having around 400-500 men total or both units.  Odds are good on the battlefield that the unit would operate as a single combat unit, as a 200-man battalion has little staying power.

In Black Powder, you have four basic unit sizes:  tiny, small, average and large.  For our project, an ‘average’ battalion would be around 24 figures, and I’m equating ‘average’ size with a battalion somewhere in the 450-650 man range.  For units with around 300-400 men, the question becomes whether to field those units as ‘small’ units on their own or combine them to be one ‘average’ or possibly ‘large’ unit.  Each option has advantages and disadvantages.  I suspect I won’t know which one would be a better reflection of the units performances until I play a few games.  I’ll get some extra command stands so I can run with either option.

Here’s a helpful list of OB’s for Leipzig that you can find on the net:

New Army Painter Inks

I managed to try out the new inks from The Army Painter this evening in between dealing with firefighting for work & feeding some starving children.  The figs are still drying but for now I am impressed.  We’ll see what they look like when fully dry but I can see myself going through large amounts of Soft Tone & Dark Tone ink for my figures.

In an attempt to speed up my painting I’ve been moving towards doing a more basic block painting combined with washes and selected highlights, and I think the new AP inks will fit into this scheme very well.  After getting the basic color blocked in I gave my figures a coat of Future to try and reduce the amount of ‘tooth’ in the paint.  After the Future finish dried I hit them with the AP inks and they seem to have flowed nicely into the cracks.

I did some experimenting with the tones and at this point here’s what I think:

  • Dark Tone will be my goto for silver metals, blues, greens, greys, among other dark-ish colors.  The black works well to shade a lot of colors without overpowering them.  I will also use them for white belts & straps to give it more of a pipe-clay look.
  • Strong Tone will be used for yellow metals and browns.
  • Light Tone will be used for flesh (Caucasian at least) along with off-white and other lighter brown-ish tones.

For my Russian Musketeers I worked on tonight, most got the Light Tone for their trousers & flesh and dark tone for everything else.

I’ll post a follow-up once things dry totally.  Thanks to Der Feldmarchall again for the tip.

Foundry Sees The Light

It’s the end of an era today, folks.

Wargames Foundry, one of the earliest drivers of ’28mm’ historical miniatures, sent me an email today:

Dear Sir/Madam,

While you may not have noticed yet, things are changing at Foundry and we are the middle of a process of restructuring and reorganisation. This will include bringing back some old ranges and reintrodcuing some old packs that were inexplicably removed from others. This will all take some time but we want to return to being the company we once were. As a symbol of this we have reintroduced the English Civil War and Thirty Years War ranges.

Although some of these things will take some time to put into place, one immediate change we have made is to make sure that those ordering from outside of the UK will pay the same price as everybody else. It was a particularly bad policy that we have rectified as of today, no matter where you live in the world you will not pay more than our domestic customers

Watch out for further changes in the future.

yours faithfully,

Neil Littlewood

 

There have been a number of things that historical miniatures gamers could whine about with regard to Foundry (dalliances with fantasy/SF ranges, declining quality of new ranges, the whole ‘our customers are collectors, not wargamers’ bit, etc.), but the main thing US customers would whine about was the fact that Foundry was purposefully screwing overseas customers through bloated local prices for their products.   This note from Mr. Littlewood indicates that this practice is coming to an end, which is good news indeed.

Foundry’s prices are still not cheap, and they still need to restock their stable of sculptors IMO, but at least everyone is getting treated the same now.  Well done.


On the Painting Table

28mm Napoleonic French

Battletech

 

Completed Units for 2024

  • 24 WWI/RCW/Back of Beyond Austrian Infantry
  • 12 28mm French Napoleonic Infantry
  • 3 stands 28mm French Napoleonic Foot Artillery

What I’m Reading

(02/24)

  • “Wellington’s Masterpiece” – Lawford & Young

 

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