Showing posts with label terrain. Show all posts
Showing posts with label terrain. Show all posts

Saturday, 20 June 2020

CCLXV. Kill Team: Necron Flayed One and Bone Trees

Back in 2018 I did a converted Necron Kill Team warband. With new Necron models coming in with the next edition of Warhammer 40k, it's time to revisit that project!


Flayed One


The core Kill Team rulebook has four unit types for Necrons: Warriors, Deathmarks, Immortals and Flayed Ones. The latter was the only one I hadn't made for my original kill team, even though I had the design figured out.  But here it is now, my interpretation of a Flayed One:

The red legs and arms come from Admech Ruststalkers, the torso is from Victrix Gallic Naked Fanatics, and the head is a GW skull.



Warrior, Flayed One, Immortal.


 

 

Bone Trees 




Produced by the awesome Wilhelminiatures, these resin scenery pieces fit so well with my Beksiniskiesque Necrons. You can get them on Etsy: LINK.

Saturday, 30 June 2018

CLXXIX. Legen: Sir Pelial and the Craven Cur







 









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Pelial's new four-legged companion is the final member of his retinue. The hound minis come from North Star and Warlord. I only needed one for the knight's warband, but this was a great opportunity to cross all of them from my list of unpainted minis. They'll come in handy for a variety of scenarios. Among the seven I've got there were four unique sculpts, so I slightly converted the three duplicates. When I saw I had all these different poses, it occured to me that I could capitalize on that and tell the dog's story solely trough images. Since the protagonist is an animal that doesn't speak, it's fitting, and it was a lot of fun to try. Please let me know how I did.

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The day of the game is getting close, and more and more work from the participants is getting revealed. Most post on their Instagrams. Helge's knight, retinue and giants (1 2 3 4). Rebecca's fish-riding knight and cent-squires (1 2 3). Mikkel's knight (1). Vladimir's rhino knight finished (1). Tommy has made this monstrosity: (1). I'm really impressed by all the models my friends have created for this project. And there's more coming!

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In the meantime, I've built the fourth and final peasant house for the table. This one even has an upstairs. A windmill is next in queue; the largest scenery piece for this project.





Monday, 11 June 2018

CLXXVI. Peasant House Step-By-Step

When I published my peasant house I got a lot of requests for a more detailed account of the build. I have completed two more of these cottages now, and I tried my best to document the process for those interested. If you have questions, you are welcome to ask in the comments. I'll be happy to discuss it further.




Materials:
  • polystyrene
  • balsa wood (1mm, 2mm)
  • DAS clay
  • MDF base
  • pelt of a teddy bear 
  • masking tape
  • PVA glue
  • superglue
  • pins
  • wooden toothpicks
  • wire
  • blister pack
  • insect net
  • paint


The core shape was assembled from polystyrene, toothpicks and masking tape. It's sturdy and easy to build upon, so a good choice if the house is closed (no playable interior). The base is MDF.


First, I grabbed 2mm balsa and got started on the roof. That's only the parts of the wooden roof structure that would be visible. No need to bother with the rest since it will be covered with 'thatch'.


Next comes the wooden framework of the walls. Also made of 2mm balsa, glued with PVA.


The walls were then filled with DAS clay. I do this with my fingers and leave it uneven and messy. Only I always make sure not to leave fingerprints - having those showing is on the same immersion-killing level as having mould lines on a painted mini. Water helps smooth things out. Before applying the clay, I smeared some PVA on the surface for DAS to adhere better. If your polystyrene has a textured surface, do sand it smooth. The texture will show in the overlaying clay when it cures. You can still fix that with another layer of DAS, but it's better to prevent it from happening at all.


While the clay was still wet I added more detail to the overhang of the roof. It's just toothpicks, cut in half. Pointy end stuck into the wall just under the roof.



That's the big stuff done. Moving on to the detailing.

Leaded windows. Insect net, blister pack plastic. I cut the shape with scissors, glued them to each other with superglue and then on the wall with PVA. Built the window frames around the glass. Easy.





Doors. 1mm balsa. First, basic shape and size. Then it was marked and cut into planks. Each plank got wood grain engraved. Each distressed around the edges. Then all glued into place in the door frame. The 'empty space' behind the door was prepainted black, since it would otherwise have been hard to reach. Thinking ahead saves you from frustration later.


Metal detailing on the door. Blister packaging, pin heads, metal rings. Glued with superglue.


Painting time. Sprayed white. Grey and brown glazes on the wood, some staining on the whitewashed walls. Rust on metal.


After the messiest part of painting is done, the teddy fur thatch can be glued into place. I prefer to do it this was to avoid fur getting in the way when painting the underlying wood.



The fur thatch is best done by cutting horizontal strips and pasting them onto the roof, starting from the bottom and slightly overlapping. I used pins to fix it all in place until the glue set. I pulled them all out afterwards.


You will notice it looks very fuzzy. To make it more like straw, I applied a mix of water, PVA and light brown paint. Used a large stiff brush and brush only in the downward direction, following the flow of the hairs. This is also how water would normally go down the roof during rainfall.


After this, the roof will be pretty drenched and it will take time for it to dry. Best leave it overnight. When it was completely dry, I added the chimney, the wooden ridge, and some planks nailed to the roof. The latter are mostly an aesthetic choice, since they help break up the large, relatively bland surface.

It's the little extra details that really help sell the scenery piece as a house someone inhabits. A simple, rickety ladder can be made from balsa and cut up toothpicks. For a tidier and sturdier result, harder wood is recommended.



This water pitcher hanging on the wall was made of a wooden bead, a metal ring and a bit of wire:


Bits leftover from kits, or bits designed for dioramas and basing are also good for this. I add these little bits at the end since it's easier to paint them separately from the building.

As you can see, it is not complicated and it doesn't require expensive materials nor tools. The more time you spend on it and the more attention you give to details, the more spectacular it will be. And you can always go back and work on it some more, add a little thing here, tidy up the paintjob there. I will leave these as they are for now, since I have a few more pieces to build before the deadline. But nothing is stopping me to snazz them up more at a later date. 

Cottage No.2
 




Cottage No.3
 







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In other news, I'm still making minis. I have shown this image somewhere else already, but I want to include it here as well. Second Bloodfiend is done, the Custodian finished, and a little piper devil is the newest arrival to the green group. Bosch for the win.