Ghosts of the Jungle .. More Nam Figures .. (1/72, 20mm, 1/76)

When you are preparing for a game like "Ghosts of the Jungle" (allegedly a player cooperative play game, which also means you can be left at the mercy of other players "intelligent" decisions), there are always the game "odds and ends" you need to paint up .. just to oil the mechanics and make-up "special events" or have in the "background". They are typically not the sexy, sexy exciting figures that jump onto the painting table, but they have an important game function to do. For example, a VC truck (on loan to North Vietnam from the USSR, via the Plastic Soldier Company WWII Russian transport collection) to terrorise anybody trying to cross a seemingly deserted jungle track in the game, a couple of VC figures who can nicely fit in the back of said truck [of ESCI/Italeri 1/72 VC origins - waiting to be painted for some twenty years], some (as in eight) Platoon 20 Villagers [who under the game the mechanics could turn into VC], eight Platoon 20 SAS LRRP soldiers [OK they are pretty sexy, but were an upgrade from the US LRRP that I was previously using] and finally a downed helicopter pilot, in wounded and walking poses (see below, the primed and Vallejo brown washed ready for the "real" painting to start): 

It is "good for the soul" when you get figures at least to this stage ;) 

50+ Shades of Grey

It's time to talk dirty, soft ESCI plastic dunked in PVA .. 50/50 PVA to water mix, approx (see below, the Soviets have that suspicious PVA gleam - despite my initial reservations about glooping PVA over nice figures this steps seems to work well): 

The Soviets then get the remains of the grey primer .. it almost covers .. but runs out. Time to head off to the shops (see below, about 70% covered but the bases [sand peaking through] tells the true story): 

Fully primed (see below, up to full Soviet military standard ):

If it'd good enough for the Soviets the 'big boy' Saxons [28mm of pure Gripping Beast fun and fantasy] want some of the action (see below, note the Humbrol Acrylic spray dries really fast which is impressive):  

Well job done. Although I think it is much heavier on the paint than brushing it on - because no matter what I try half of the paint seems just to coat the tile - it certainly saves time! 

Note: That this took place outside, based on family complaints of the garage being "stunk out".

Quick Side Project: US Infantry Light Mech - Factory Style Processing

I made an impulse purchase (well rather, I downloaded a Demo version - but the family unsympathetically call it a "purchase" as it resides on the computer) alongside getting a new family laptop, the Combat Mission Shock Factor 2 computer game. This is a new direction for me, as although I know of and have played previous versions of Combat Mission, they were all based in East or West front WWII. Not since a brief foray with a modern version of Steel Panthers (nearly twenty years ago now) have I played "moderns" [as in post world war two] on a PC (see below, a screen shot from the initial "Training Mission"): 

Now as it happens I have, don't ask me "how" [as it is totally unplanned] the US forces and terrorist defenders courtesy of various random purchases over the years for the "training" scenario. So yes I have the four Stryker vehicles required and a Humvee (he says, quietly removing a 105mm recoil less rifle from the roof) in the "already" assembled "Forces of Valour" pre-made kit forms (so no gluing required here  - although I ahem, I do have a box of "modern things to make" too). The US infantry force is perfectly matched to the contents of an old packet of Esci (yes that old) US Modern Infantry "modern as in Desert Storm" methinks - but that is close enough for me. The challenge is .. can I do them fast. They were already "based" on washers, and defensively coated in PVA to harden them up .. but the projects had stalled there for over a decade. I decided to quickly undercoat "spray" and then once dry literally dip them in my 'dipping tub'  of Vallejo Sepia Brown Wash (see below - I was go quick I forgot to take a picture of them primed grey):  

I want to "Keep it Simple" and just get this force on tabletop. So I am looking at wargame standard, not the three layer stuff I usually do - so grabbing paints to hand I started dabbling (see below, all lined up for painting inspection): 

Rather than go digging through my Vallejo paints for "specific" colours I was using the Vallejo Game to get a close fit brown and experimenting with some Citadel paints that were lying around (due to a Covid-19 spare time house tidy-up by the wife finding my stuff is quite hard). Initially I was hoping I could dry brush my way through things but alas no. In the end I base coated a tester figure with Citadel Foundation Caltan Brown .. but did not like the results, so I used Valeejo Game Colour to give it a two tome highlight (shame I was hoping for something in one coat). Tallarn Flesh, another Citadel Foundation paint, was good for the flesh parts. Vallejo Game Colour Khaki was a quick fix for the bags (and I could live with that), but I hummed and ahh'ed as the diagram showed green and brown fleck camo. I gave in and used streaks of Vallejo Colour Cano Green and reused tiny dabs of the Calthan Brown Foundation (see below, remember .. I am trying to keep it simple to be done in one big batch): 

The M16 weapon (?) gets a basic (Vallejo Game Colour) black (see below, my tester figure, I think I will call him "Frank"):  

The question is can I spin out another fifty of these as quick or quicker?

The Portable Wargame Book WWII Eastern Front Battle (Part 4) - Re-Fight III "End Game Over-run"

Heartened by the destruction of the Panzer IV the Soviets regaled their T-34s to "super human patriotic efforts" and charge and break the German centre. Supported by artillery (it was deemed to be a fresh close combat as the PAK crews had just returned to the fray) and other units the PAK was destroyed. This left a Commander alone in the hex and the T34 mercilessly advanced, tank tracks squealing in "Cross of Iron" fashion (see below): 

We had a brief conversation regarding what to do with a solo command figure alone in close combat and we decided that it was an auto kill - alternatively it could have been roll a "6" for it to hit the T-34, but the latter auto kill seemed more fair (maybe it was getting late). The German Commander went to Valhalla (see below, the Germans are approaching their Exhaustion Limit having lost a Pz IV, a Pak 40 and a Commander - 3 towards their 4 limit, whereas the Russians despite losing three infantry and one tank - are only 4 towards their 7 limit):

The one remaining hope for the Germans was their Mountain Artillery piece, now firing over open sight could brew a T-34 but alas the T34's armour was too strong. Almost inevitably the German front ruptured; Soviet direct fire returned the complement to the German Mountain Artillery and a hit made it retreat (crew not the guns, just like the PAK). This effectively brought the German forces almost to the point of "Exhaustion" - no further movement for offensive action. However the rampant T-34s kept coming (see below, the German artillery crew can just be seen bottom left corner):

The close combat although not killing the Germans (still tenuously hanging above their exhaustion point) hurled them away from the safety of their fortifications and opened up the rearmost T-34 to perform exploitation right into "the enemies backfield" (see below):

The veteran T-34 (veteran as in "model", not as in quality of the unit, as it was painted last century in the 1990's was about to claim it's "wargaming moment") did not need to be asked twice and promptly 'overran' [again I can hear those tank tracks squealing - that remorseless metal on metal sound ] the retreating Mountain Artillery crew. Again after discussion we deemed the German crew were in no position to defend themselves (perhaps "6" to hit would the T-34 have been as appropriate - but what with?) This was sufficient to break the Germans or rather make them reach their Exhaustion Point (see below - no more offensive movement for the Germans from this point on):

With the Russian infantry moving up and two rampant T-34s in the German rear (not forgetting another positioning itself to charge from the front) it was 'game, set and match' to the Soviets. The only question now was, "Could the Germans could get anything off in good order?" or was it a complete rout. Answer: It became a rout as another German Infantry Platoon was eliminated and all the other units forced to retreat "pell-mell" off table (see below, the final position):

This certainly was a comprehensive Russian victory. The game was over in just over an hour, with plenty of time spent in interesting conversation to add to the enjoyment of the proceedings. In fact I have played much longer games of DBA, so it was a quick game for sure - with the previous "run through" and this game done in the same evening. Note: I definitely want to re-run the scenario using Step Points (SPs) instead of the "instant kill" option to see the difference it makes - I expect a prolonged resistance but a Soviet victory.

Thoughts on the rules: Noting we just played the 'basic version' from the Portable Wargames book, not the additional features from the Developing the Portable Wargame. We seemed to get "most" things right, but I think we allowed direct fire (as opposed to close assault) from adjacent hexes at certain points. The more I think about it I am more inclined to prohibit this and force the player to either stand back or go in close and dirty. I am also assuming initiating close combat is "optional in your turn" if you are adjacent to an enemy unit. Regarding weapons characteristics, both the T34 - Pz IV - Pak 40 were OK as they were evenly matched. Throw a Tiger or a JSII into the mix then I think some "relational" modifiers would be appropriate (medium gun versus heavy armour implies a six or the tank could get a saving throw). Likewise for this period of the war, infantry anti-tank weapons justify the danger in T34s or Pz IVs attempting to overrun infantry, early war that would not be teh case. Things I personally want to introduce would be (and these are borrowed from many board game other rule-sets):

• "Pinned Status" for troops that are fired upon and go "hunkered down" [Bob has read my mind with this additional feature in the follow on book: Developing the Portable Wargame].
• An "Over-watch" action [placed defensively on units that don't move/fire that allows them to shoot at enemy that move into LOS/range next turn].
• Playing around with vehicle characteristics to be more historical without becoming a "rivet counter".
• Armour (AFV) attacking infantry in the open - overrun, then moving on after a successful attack.
• Period Adjustments - for example 1940's "tank fright", here the Panzer Leader, Squad Leader and other Avalon Hill/SPI games are fertile sources of rule inspiration.
• Special one-off troop characteristics (Stalingrad Militia high morale for example) 
• Soviet "Tank-Riders"
• Ammunition shortages [probably best dealt with in a scenario briefing]

All-in-all a good rules run out and I look forward to many hours of enjoyment spent tinkering along with these rules. That's the beauty of Bob's system, he doesn't explicitly demand you 'kowtow' to him but rather get started in an interesting conversation and how it could work out. Personally I am particularly looking forward to replaying the Colonial scenario and exploring the Ancients. Bob has also published a naval variant and is currently working on a Napoleonic set.

The Portable Wargame Book WWII Eastern Front Battle (Part 3) - Re-Fight II "Armoured Assault"

The Soviet Commander decided to risk all in an all-out armoured attack. The four active units of T-34s pushed as far forwards as they could. Two of the T-34s halted as they ended "woods" (which stops any further movement but laid down "suppression" fire) and a third T34 aggressively chose to attempt an overrun of the PAK position (see below, the fourth T34 wisely stands off leaving "retreat room" - just in case if the advanced units attack goes badly and they have to retreat (see below, also note the German infantry platoon that has taken up an advanced position in the wood ahead of the PzIV, bottom left): 

The first 'tank-v-tank' engagement of the game started, with the T-34s coming out slightly on top, making the (Elite) German Panzer IV retreat (see below, beaten but not 'worsted'):

The central T-34 close assault was ineffectual, much to the relief of the Soviet Commander as when the odds were calculated the T-34 was in a badly  disadvantaged position (Soviets needed a 6 to hit while the Germans [in a fortification with their commander] needed 4-6 to hit). The close combat would continue but the Russians had "dodged" a bullet this turn (see below, note the "smoke" was a visual just for effect and to signify a unit had fired):

A second round of combat ensued [and in fact I think I let the Russians perform multiple "direct-fires" rather than force them to a close assault again - which seemed fair as a close assault attempt had been attempted] with the result that a "retreat" result enforced on the German PAK . True the winning the Soviet player could  not advance, but that was OK as it would have put him in yet another "disadvantageous close combat, " this time with the German MG team from a 'flank' hex. The German Commander thus elected to stay "in situ" hoping the crew would return rather than rout away with them [we ruled that without a transport the PAK could not rightly be hauled away].

Note: A brief discussion ensued to decide whether the "Commander" was just a DRM or could hold a hex himself - certainly not manning a PAK but could he "close combat"? The mutually agreed  decision being that he was a figurehead and an organiser rather than a combat element (despite what you see in teh war movies).

The Soviet player at this point was more concerned with the 'Elite' German Panzer IVH on his flank (see below, looking promising but still fraught with danger for the Soviets):

The Soviet Commander regrets at not having supporting infantry up with the tanks to take advantage of the heroic T34 and its local success.

Note: Another rule question came about regarding firing at units while in a close assault. It was decided that supporting units could fire at the defenders in advance of the attacker going in (by virtue of firing other units first). However, once in a close combat then it was deemed another matter (confusion and intermingling) and the norm would be to refrain from firing because of the danger of a "blue-on-blue". I think there may be a need for a "locked in melee" close assault marker, to denote when both sides cannot shoot into a close combat hex!

The German PAK crew recovered their composure (automatically - not needing a morale roll) and returned to their PAK (but were deemed unable to fire this turn) and the Panzer IV made a heroic but  desperate counter-attack (see below):

Choosing the rearmost T-34 as the most dangerous (being stacked with a commander and thus gaining to hit benefits) and also the most visible (the two other T-34s were in cover and one dangerously close to the re-manning PAK unit) the Pz IV's main armament barked and a T-34 erupted into a column of fire and brimstone (see below, one of Stalin's best succumbed):

The Soviets were not going to take this tank duel lying down and a fusillade of 76mm AT shots from the two remaining T-34s  with a clear LOS (the other one was back in close combat) crashed into the side of the Panzer IV. This time the Elite Panzer status could not save the Panzer IV (see below, go tell Adolf about the death of another panzer tank): 

Now there was the small matter of a PAK and the fortification line to deal with. It has to be noted at this point that despite firing in every turn both sides artillery had been quite ineffective.

The Portable Wargame Book WWII Eastern Front Battle (Part 2) - Re-Fight I "Opening Moves"

After a brief "commanders/generals" conversion discussing the merits of the quick 'exhibition game' (see previous post), we decided we were keen to move back to the IGOUGO system as we thought the random card mechanism a bit too random (capable of generating too many "flip-flops") for the moment. Likewise we did not favour the positioning of the German AT Pak 40 so we collectively moved it behind the fortifications with the commander, giving it the best offensive and defensive bonuses. Admittedly it would be more exposed to the expected phalanx of T-34s but it seemed teh better option to us (see below, the 'calm before the T-34 storm') :

Given the information gleaned from the last disastrous attack the Russian commander brought the phalanx of T-34s on and parked them menacingly outside of the range of the German Mountain Artillery and PAK unit. This was not going to be a piecemeal attack but a coordinated cut and thrust (see below, famous quote of "a plan not surviving contact with the enemy" comes to mind): 

The "cool-handed and cool-headed" Soviet commander (not me I hasten to add) was not to be rushed and brought in flanking companies of Soviet infantry to push forward either side of his precious T-34 Phalanx (see below, I like the terrain-vehicle-figures visual presentation): 

The German Commander was forced to play the 'waiting game' as the Soviet Commander ran his infantry up to but not into some cover (see below, the Germans now at least have targets to shoot at next go):

Whereas the attackers are hindered by the numbers of units activated (card selected - half to +/- 1 FV) and always making choices of what to move, the defender can pretty much always decide to shoot at "any targets of opportunity" and his artillery. Note: The "two reserve" German infantry platoons have moved up taking firing positions "in the front line" (see below, the three nearest Soviet infantry units are in the line of sight to one or more German "weapon systems"): 

The PAK 40 was the first to speak with a HE shell eliminating a Russian squad/platoon (I am still undecided at what level a basic "manoeuvre unit" is pitched at - platoon is my default assumption) in one fell blow (see below):

A second Soviet infantry platoon is eliminated in quick succession from accurate German Defensive fire by one of the German infantry platoons that had moved up from reserve (see below):

Adding insult to injury a German MG42 section barks and a third Soviet platoon is no more (see below, devastation in a matter of seconds - anybody remember that plan?):

A deep frown is now seen creasing the brow of the Soviet commander. Although his T-34s are still intact the 'first wave' of Soviet infantry has been devastated. After thinking long and hard he decides to act with extreme utility.

The Portable Wargame Book WWII Eastern Front Battle (Part 1) - Example Run Through

This one has been on the bucket list for quite some time. Ideally I wanted to play "The Portable Wargame" well before I went to CoW 2018 earlier this year and met Bob in person. Unfortunately there was too much 'other wargaming stuff' going on at the time to fit in, but when a friend announced he has purchased a set of Kallistra hexagons (envy!) I jumped on the opportunity. The first thing to do was to decamp some of my dust gathering wargame kit from the loft to fulfil its "wargame destiny". To familiarise ourselves with the rules we decided to run through the play test in Bob Cordery's book, The first thing to do was to set up the German defences. I re-used the scenery I had made for the Fire-Move Hex game, fortifications were made-up of random lengths of platic sprue (I have started keeping this with a hope for a "use") and finally added the minefields with wooden counters, recently picked up from "The Works" - I still have the inclination to put skull and cross bones on them. (see below, a PSC Pz IV, two units of four-figure infantry "platoons", two units of two-figure MG "sections", a Pak 40, 105 Howitzer representing the Mountain Artillery):

The attacking Soviets charge on, heavy in armour (the dreaded T-34) and infantry (see below): 

The Soviets rushed the German defences, lead by a phalanx of T-34's and wave of infantry following. The T-34 fell victim to the German Pak 40's opening round (see below):

As Bob was performing more of a"tour de force"of the rules, a second T-34s charged through a minefield to its destruction - minefields being particularly as we were playing the one-hit sudden death variant of the rules (see below):

With 50% of the T-34's down the great patriotic hope shifted to the mass of Soviet infantry following them (see below):

A third T-34 was lost close assaulting a German fortified infantry position. The lack of obvious anti-tank assets is mitigated by the assumption of hand held AT infantry devices in this period of the war are profuse (see below):

As the final T-34 succumbed to the Pak 40 the scripted game came to a close. Another interesting feature had been the card driven sequence of activation as opposed to the more normal IGOUGO system. Again Bob was walking through the various rule mechanisms you could use ratherthan setting up the 'perfect attack' (see below, as the Russians cut their loses and retreated):

Having served its purpose as a bit of "Victorian Theatre" we decided to set up and replay the scenario. We decided to keep the instant kill (as opposed to step loss) rule in play but return to the standard IGOUGO sequence of play. The number of units that can be activated remained decided by an activation card draw (half the force value +/- 1: for the Germans FV: 8 implies [3, 4, 5]; for the Russians FV:13 implies [6, 7, 8].

Big Cat Pair - Panthers in "Ambush Style"

These go back a while, lurking in a 'loft box', in an almost but not quite finished state. I am sure these were ESCI originals, for I was intent on grabbing a third when Italeri briefly re-released them, but "missed" my window of opportunity. Meanwhile what I had got painted in my classic Tamiya paints based "three-tone camo", but as per the cool 'box art' the next step is to polka-dot it "ambush style" (see below):

The general camouflage scheme maybe too broad a swathe, I must have had a bigger brush in those days compared to now, as seen in the more recent Mk IVs but I still like it (see below):

The panzer commander figure is still one of the coolest IMHO and comes from an old ESCI Panzer III.

20mm Soviet Infantry - The Final Touch: Static Grass

The basic Soviet infantry platoon for Chain of Command is now complete by virtue of adding a little bit of static grass (see below):

The ubiquitous heroic commander and son of the Revolution posing as decreed by Stalin (see below):

The SMG NCO squad leader (see below):

I have come to really like this advancing Soviet rifleman, one of my favourites (see below):

The LMG team is a nice combination (see below):

Job well done now for the supports.

Final Satges: "Flocked Soviets"

The Soviets are now based, textured and dabbed in flock (aka railway scenic grass):

In close-up the running rifleman figure (see below):

The kneeling rifleman figure (see below):

Clumps of 'static grass' to follow, then the project is finished.

Note to Self: Painting WWII Russian Infantry (20mm,1/72)Preparation/Painting Guide

The Russians are coming! 

Warning: A long post follows with lots of pictures... but I was enjoying myself so much I just could not stop myself ... and also I did not want to forget anything I had done. I shall explain the crazy logic behind my excessive number of  layers of detail to this painting process (on cheap plastic) in another post. Meanwhile sit back and enjoy my madness or simply ignore it!

;)

Following on from my recent "Chain of Command" games using my WWII British Platoon I decided  I needed to allow some other toys to fulfill their "wargaming destiny". So kit that had laid dormant for nearly a decade (ahem plus), painfully stored the attic in their basic chipped paint scheme finally makes it to the 'painting table' (see below, "1/72 Classic Esci/Italeri WW2 Summer Russians"):

For some reason (perhaps watching the H2 History Channel "Russian WW2 Weekend" has something to do with it), I fancied attacking the pile of unpainted and partially painted Russians (plastics and metals), starting with the plastics first. In this way I could safely experiment and build up a paint set before moving onto the more tricky metals. As stated earlier I opted for my "old school" Esci/Italeri Summer Russians. I particularly wanted to put to good use the extensive collection of Vallejo paints I have acquired (see below):

Note: I am basing these as individual figures for the "Chain of Command" rule set. My previous attempt at painting Russian infantry were for "Command Decision" which requires them to be based "in twos on a 20mm square", which IMHO makes them look a tad cramped. Depending on the results I may well go back and convert these to single bases.

WWII Russian Painting Experiment: Esci/Italeri WWII (20mm, 1/72) Summer Russians

"Plastic Figures" Preparation:

• Washed in warm soapy (detergent water)
• Cut from sprue with sharp knife
• Dry off water with dish towel and leave to dry fully
• Paint with slightly watered down PVA glue mixed with a dark brown (I used Vallejo Game Colour Charred Brown, because it was Dark Brown and 'to hand') and don't panic if it looks a mess at this stage (see below)

Help my figures are covered in "PVA Gunk!", a very messy painting tray. 

Note: These are old figures getting a repaint which is why they look different to 'virgin ones' from the packet show in the later photos when the PVA had dried (see below):

The factory production line akin to the Soviet Stalin "Five Year Plan" (see below):

However once dry the preparation stage is complete (see below, 3 x Russian two man LMG teams), the PVA has shrunk over the figure creating a seal that helps softer plastics be more rigid. By mixing in a dark paint it also help highlight subtle detail in the figure (such as shoulder straps) and helps as a painting guide later. 

An example batch of 'prone Russians' sealed in "dried and tightened" PVA (see below):  

A close-up of a single figure showing a surprising amount of detail, a work of art really not just a kid's toy. I cannot recollect this figure being and the prone LMG figure being in the original Esci set, but this one definitely comes from the Italeri set in hard 'plastic' (see below): 

Alternative for "Metal Figures" Preparation:

• Wash in warm detergent water  
• Dry off water with dish towel and let dry
• Remove flash with sharp knife
• File off mold lines with small modelling tools

Painting Guide:

• Undercoat figures (see below) light to dark brown (Ex, I used Games Workshop "Foundation Calthan Brown" again because it was near to hand, but any Darkish-Mid Brown will do). Note: Yes this loses the "PVA painting guide marks" (see above) but sadly this step is needed, but you will remember in your "mind's eye" trust me.

• Wash the figures in a Black Wash (I used Valleo Transparent Acrylic Wash: Black Shade). This tones and partially brings back the painting guide, again this serves as a painting guide (see below):

The REAL" Painting Starts:

Phase I: Shade/Mid-Colour Blocking: 

• Helmet: Vallejo Model Colour Russian Green (aka 70894), the most distinctive Russian uniform element IMHO (see below):  

• Tunic: Base shade of uniform (wait for it) English Uniform Vallejo Model Colour (70921) and not as I expected the Vallejo Russian WWII Uniform. Why you may ask? Please see the following excellent article on Painting WWII Russians from a blogger called Steve Balagan. 

Anyway things's should now be looking like this (see below):

Close up of the excellent prone LMG figure (see below):

• Blanket and larger bags and packs: Vallejo Model Colour German [ahem, not quite what you would expect for the Russian army] Camouflage Beige (70821). In a bit of a dilemma here as I want to keep the baggage authentic but simple, so I am trying not to paint "50 shades of Green" (see below):  

• Waist Belts and Ammunition Pouches: Vallejo Model Colour Flat Earth (70983), although you need good eyesight to see it against the background of English Uniform (see below, strap over the right shoulder):

• Boots: Black Vallejo Model Colour (70950) to show that these "boots are made for walking" all over the Nazi hoards (see below): 

• Face and Hands: Vallejo Model Colour Flat Flesh (70955), an awkward colour as it looks too bright and white, but I am going to apply a wash over this later (see below): 

• Highlight Tunic: Vallejo Model Colour Khaki Grey (70880). Some may say perhaps a strange choice to highlight now, wash then to highlight again, but stay with me there is method to my madness (see below):

• Various Metal Bits: Gun Metal (Weapons and Entrenching Tool): Using Vallejo Model Colours Gun Metal (70863), to point out the metal bits without being too shiny (see below): 

• Wood Weapon Stocks and Entrenching Tool Handle: Vallejo Game Colours (Charred Burnt Brown and/or Beast Brown), a two step shade and highlight process (see below): 

Getting there now as all the "base shade colours" have been added. It is "Intermission Time" so:

• "WASH ONE" is applied again in Vallejo Acrylic Wash Umber Shade to dull everything down and add some depth to the figure (see below):

• "WASH TWO" is the Vallejo Acrylic Black wash again applied over he metal parts to dull down the shiny bits as per every self-respecting combat formation (see below):

• Gallery (1): of "other Russians at this stage" (close-up detail on some single figures, SMG and Rifleman, see below), the wash has made the figures shiny:

• Gallery (2): of "other Russians at this stage" (Soviet "Masse", see below):

From another angle (see below):

Phase II: Highlight Time

• Helmet Highlight: Vallejo Model Colour Russian Green (aka 70894) mixed with increasing amounts of Vallejo Game Colour Gold Yellow (72007) to give subtle shades of green highlights.

The "Soviet masse" (see below):

• Tunic Highlight: Straight back to Vallejo Model Colour Khaki Grey (70880) and yes I know we've just washed over it, try adding Vallejo Game Colour Golden Yellow (72007) and Vallejo Game Colour Dead White (72001).

And a close-up on some "singleton Soviet Snipers" (see below):

The "Chain of Command" Platoon formation seen from afar with their "Yellow Tunic highlights" (see below):

Next a "touch of White added" to the extreme bits of "highlighted Yellow" (see below):

These "White highlights to the tunic" shown a little closer (see below):

The "White highlight to tunic" with a very close-up LMG prone figure (see below):

• Boot Highlight: Vallejo Model Colour Black (70950) mixed with Vallejo Game Colour Stonewall Grey (72049). This is dabbed in patches over the earlier black muddied by the Umber Wash for a subtle effect (see below, the whole platoon and a few close up):   

• Bags and Blanket Highlight: Vallejo Model Colour German [ahem, not quite what you would expect] Camouflage Beige (70821) mixed with Vallejo Game Colour Dead White (72001).

• Ammo Pouches and Straps: Vallejo Flames of War Read Leather (818), mixed with Vallejo Model Colour Flat Earth (70983) and highlighted with Vallejo Game Colour Gold Yellow (72007
• Wood: Vallejo Model Colour Beige Brown (70875) mixed with Vallejo Game Colour Gold Yellow (72007)
• Metal Bits: Vallejo Game Colour Gun Metal Grey (70863) in a tiny thin highlight strip
• Flesh: Vallejo Model Colour Flat Flesh (70955) mixed with a small amount of Vallejo Game Colour Dead White, and dabbed as highlight spots
• Shoulder Tabs (I): [Note these were added rather late in the process and it would have been better if they had been included in the base painting section too, ho hum] Rectangular strips of Vallejo Game Colour Gory Red (72011) as 1939-1942 Soviet Infantry has "red" shoulder tabs, post 43 it was a more subdued affair (see below): 

• Shoulder Tabs (II): This is retro fitting the "shoulder tabs" into the previous stages to tidy up the edges of the red tab and tone down its in your face colour (which would be more appropriate for the NKVD units)
• Black line with thin brush around red shoulder tab
• Umber wash shoulder tab area to regain that "brown" feel
• Re-touch tunic (Vallejo Model Colour Khaki Grey 70880) and highlight (adding some amounts of Vallejo Game Colour Golden Yellow and Vallejo Dead White) on and around the shoulders
• Subtle red highlight on a small part of the shoulder tab (see below for the end of painting results): 

Phase III: Are you TOUGH enough for Table-Top?

• Varnish Gloss/Satin: Depending on availability (much to my surprise I do not own any Gloss Varnish, so I subbed in the nearest I had a Humbrol Satin Varnish, originally purchased for a 'water/sea effect' project I never got around to doing (see below, first a tester on two figures, then the whole batch as in A Chain of Command basic platoon):

• Varnish Matte: To tone down the glossy effect a layer of Matte Varnish was applied after leaviong the Gloss/Satin a full day to dry and cure (see below): 

Phase IV: Detailing the Base:

• PVA the base around the figure and dip in tub of "Grit" (see below): 

• Ink the Grit Base a Dark Brown: In this case reconstituting some "gelled up" Winsor and Newton Ink with water and adding a bit Anita's Acrylics Earth Brown, so the sand and grit soaks it up and gives it shade as it dries out (see below): 

• Shade the Base: Anita Acrylic Earth Brown (see below):

• Highlight Layers to Base: Add Anita's Acrylic Cafe Brown to the Base Shade of Anita's Acrylic Earth Brown for "first highlight layer". Then add a dab of Vallejo Game Colour Golden Yellow as a follow on "second highlight layer (see below, WIP left [basic shade colour], middle [first highlight] to right [second highlight]):

• Final White Highlight: Subtle dry brush white (Vallejo Game Colour Dead White) to highlight tip/edges of grit (see below): 

• Flock Base: Add watered down PVA in smears to flat areas of base, dip base in "flock box", wait thirty seconds and tap to release excess (see below): 

• Add Clumps of Static Grass: Choose random sections of base to add tufts of grass, by dabbing PVA to base and pressing static grass to base and tap to release excess as per flock (see below):  

Soviet Office with classic upraised pistol pose (see below):

The ubiquitous Russian SMG armed trooper (see below):  

Advancing rifleman (see below): 

The LMG section (see below):

Now we are ready to commission this platoon into the Red Army for Poland (1939) or Barbarossa (1941) to the Summer Battles of 1942 (After that the shoulder tabs change ... but do we really care?). Note: Finland (1940, aka "The Winter War") is probably a push for these figures as these Soviets are all in Summer Uniform.

Final Note: I have a lot more "Russians from various manufactures" to now consider painting (at my 'leisure', as in if I ever manage to get any more "time off" seeing as how I have 'neglected' house and garden duties for the sake of the Red Army) but now at least I have the 'Geordie's Big Battles' (patent pending) "Mark One: Russian Painting Set, Guide and Travel Box" to hand. 

Note: Paints and Brushes (which I estimate cost approximately £60 to gather over many years, but yes it can be done much cheaper) on the bottom tray (see below):

And WIP figures in the top layer of the  box (see below, in this case Italeri's "ex Esci" 'Summer Russians' retailing at approx £7 a pack and I have at least three packs to work on):

As I said other manufacturers to follow (Revell Summer, PSC Summer, Revell Winter, Italeri Winter, note no Caesar or Airfix [do these figures actually paint up well?] "as of yet")

Hope you found some of the above useful .. perhaps too long for one blog post but I wanted it all in one place for future reference and not spread around.

;)