tuğba arabalı
S. Tuğba ARABALI KOŞAR Çukurova Üniversitesi Güzel Sanatlar Fakültesi, Tekstil ve Moda Tasarımı Bölümü’nde Dr. Öğretim Üyesi olan S.Tuğba Arabalı Koşar, 1980’de İzmir’de doğdu. 2002 yılında Dokuz Eylül Üniversitesi Güzel Sanatlar Fakültesi Tekstil Bölümü’nde lisans eğitimini tamamlayarak, 2003 yılında Çukurova Üniversitesi Güzel Sanatlar Fakültesi Tekstil Tasarımı Bölümün’de Araştırma Görevliliğine atandı. Yüksek lisansını 2007 yılında, Sanatta Yeterliliğini 2016 yılında Dokuz Eylül Üniversitesi Güzel Sanatlar Enstitüsü Tekstil ve Moda Tasarımı Anasanat dalında tamamladı. Tapestry sanatı, dokuma sanatı, lif sanatı, keçe sanatı, üç boyutlu sanatsal tekstiller ve tekstil de tasarımla bağlantılı diğer konularda çalışmaları olan Koşar’ın, alanında yayınlanan ulusal ve uluslararası makale ve bildirileri bulunmaktadır. Eserleri, kişisel sergilerinin yanı sıra birçok ulusal ve uluslararası sempozyum, kongre, bienal, grup ve karma sergilerde yer almıştır. Alanında katıldığı yarışmalarda ödül ve derecelere sahip olan akademisyen halen Çukurova Üniversitesi Güzel Sanatlar Fakültesi Tekstil ve Moda Tasarım Bölümü’nde görevini sürdürmektedir. Bölümünde kumaş yapı bilgisi, bilgisayar destekli dokuma tasarımı ve dokuma tasarım derslerini vermektedir ve akademik çalışmalarına devam etmektedir.Kişisel Sergiler•2017“Arayış” Hacimli Lif Sanatı Sergisi, 29 Haziran- 06 Temmuz, AÇS Sanat Galerisi, Adana •2018 “Arayış II”, Hacimli Tekstil Sanatı Sergisi, 03-17 Mayıs, Türkan Saylan Kültür Merkezi Sanat Galerisi, Alsancak/ İzmir.S. Tuğba ARABALI KOŞAR Dr. Asts. Prof. Textile Design Department, Faculty of Fine Arts, Çukurova University in Adana, S.Tuğba Koşar born in 1980. She received her BSc in Textile Design from Dokuz Eylül University Fine Arts Faculty, Textile Design Department in İzmir, Turkey in 2002. She was appointed to the Textile Design Department, Faculty of Fine Arts, Çukurova University, in 2003, completed her Master of Fine Arts in 2007 and Proficiency in Arts in 2016 in Department of Textile and Fashion Design Institute of Fine Arts Dokuz Eylül University, Izmir.Having such works as arts of tapestry, weaving, felt, 3D artistic textiles and design related issues, Koşar presented national and international articles and communiqués published in her own field. Her works were displayed in various symposiums, conventions, congresses biennial, group and mix exhibitions at home and abroad as well as her personal exhibitions. Awarded by competitions she has participated in, the scholar Koşar currently lectures on fabric structure, weaving design and CAD weaving design, continuing her academic processes in the Department of Textile and Fashion Design, Faculty of Fine Arts, Çukurova University, Adana, Turkey.Solo Exhibitions•2017“Arayış” Hacimli Lif Sanatı Sergisi, 29 June- 06 July, AÇS Sanat Galerisi, Adana •2018 “Arayış II”, Hacimli Tekstil Sanatı Sergisi, 03-17 May, Türkan Saylan Kültür Merkezi Sanat Galerisi, Alsancak/ İzmir.
Address: Izmir, İzmir, Turkey
Address: Izmir, İzmir, Turkey
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While textile was first produced together with the existence of human being within the direction of needs
related thereto, it continues to exist as a different means of expression in the fields of art in addition to the field
of daily use over time. It is known that felting and knitting, which have a significant place within the art of
textile, have been created in different styles within the scope of different civilizations. Notwithstanding that the
traditional production of felt and knitted products, used as functional objects within the historical process,
continues, it is also seen that they are used in shaping design objects, formed by the modern design approach
as industrial production. At the current period, it is seen that various forms, textures, and volumes are sought
on surfaces by the use of different textile techniques, and different experiments and searches, used especially in
felt and knitting techniques take place as a means of expression in the fields of art.
The objective of the research is also to put forth the stage of the art object and artistic apparel through different
forms and textures with the provision of bulky effects on the surface by combining felting feature of wool with
different knitting techniques. In the research aiming to discover new methods of establishing a relationship
between felt and knitting techniques that have been two separate textile techniques, the establishment of a
dialogue between the design disciplines and relationships between the art object and artistic apparel design
variables are examined between the size and space interval. This is to catch a different and innovative
viewpoint with raw wool and yarns, which are used in the artistic object and artistic apparel forms.
Nevertheless, the objective hereunder is to bring out different visual effects in artistic works through the use of
repeated formation methods from the part to the whole.
While the surface searches in the research, are developed through the usage of wool material, they have been
limited by knitting & felting techniques. The methods, used in knitting techniques, refer only to hand knitting.
The potential of the wool material in its transformation into the artistic object constituted innovative, variable
textures, different forms and volumetric alternatives on the surfaces of the works through its combination with
the knitting and felting techniques. The dimensional changes having arisen with the felting have changed the
formation opportunities of art objects and apparel and brought forth unexpected and extraordinary effects. In
addition to this, all artistic works gained visual variety by the use of different colours and colour shades. At the
work where new modelling opportunities are presented beyond apparel manufacturing methods, a literature
review has been made by taking advantage of a descriptive scanning method and then, an action research
method was used in the artistic object and artistic apparel application processes so formed up. According to
results, obtained from the research that analysed the wool under a new light as a versatile natural fibre, it has
been understood that the wool continues to be a lasting trend ranging from fleece to the art object and fashion,
and the wool material and its potential has also been noticed in the fields of design and art apart from the
provision of conformance of the wool and knitting industry through its features of high performance only to
the modernity and commercial success. Furthermore, it also shows that the use of the felt and knitting
technique jointly created different artistic textile forms and that these forms could be diversified
and at the beginning of 21st century, it is seen that sustainability concept has grown in importance and that
studies focusing on this matter have been given weight to. Today, it is aimed that raw material resources are
recycled, recovered, and transformed into products again by serving a purpose other than the purpose of use,
and also that they are consumed in a manner to leave the least waste to the environment. While the practices
dealt with within this scope are in an ongoing industrial process, they are addressed as subject in the courses
and project in undergraduate education of Faculty of Fine Arts, in order to raise awareness and to grow
conscious designers. Designs and productions performed with a sustainable action constitute the main research
subject of the study, within the scope of the curriculum of Faculty of Fine Arts, Textile/Textile and Fashion
Design Department and under the concepts of recycling, recovery and reproduction. These designs and
productions were examined within the scope of the period dated between 2010-2020. The meaning and place
of the concepts of recycling, recovery and sustainability in the curriculum has been researched. The study is
examined through printing, weaving, knitting, clothing, accessories and artistic designs and projects produced
within the scope of courses and projects. These productions/desings are examined and associated with the
concept of sustainability. The method of the study is qualitative research and the main data collection method
of the study is based on document analysis. The concept of sustainability, which is the subject of the study,
was evaluated by examining the studies in the Textile/Textile and Fashion Design departments of the Faculties
of Fine Arts of the universities located in Istanbul, Izmir, Adana and Mersin provinces. In the applied courses
in these departments, recycling, recovery and reproduction processes are examined specific to student designs.
In this research made to determine the designs and projects created in order to create awareness, approximately
72 designs of 32 students, all of which are made from surplus and waste materials and designed and produced
on the basis of re-use principles, were dealt with. While determining the examples of the research, teachers and
students who are open to cooperation were taken into consideration and, in this context, easily accessible
(suitable) samples were analysed. As a result of the study, the daily life outputs of the productions within the
scope of the Textile/Textile Fashion Design Departments of Faculties of Fine Arts are discussed in relation to
the concept of sustainability, which is the rising value of today. During the research process, after the visual
and written data collection stage, descriptive data analysis and interpretation have been made and the results
have been reached. In the research which is examined in this context, it is followed that advanced cycling and
reuse in textile and fashion design are addressed again within the life cycle of materials that are produced for
different aims and that they are transformed to and use as a textile or clothing object to be reused or an artistic
object. It is seen during the design phase of textile products, with the concept of advanced cycling and reuse,
that textile product is developed by considering how it can be recovered at the end of its lifetime. It has been
observed that designer candidates create alternative different solutions to the current situation, that many
different materials are handled and evaluated in the examples they present, that they are sorted out, and that
expected or unexpected diversity has been realized. In the studies, it has been obtained from the opinions of
students and teachers that surplus and waste materials are obtained through donation as well as research and
collection. In the research, the applicability of the materials that lost their function within the design
possibilities was determined with the recycling technique in line with the information obtained from the
lecturers. These techniques are formed by the combination, in printing design courses, of embroidery, applique,
sewing techniques, which are used with filmdruck (silk/serigraphy/screen) printing technique on surplus or
waste fabrics and hand painting methods, with together with patchwork technique. Examples made within the
scope of weaving design courses are observed to have been created by using surplus, waste and waste materials
as weft yarn. In knitting designs on the other hand, it has been observed that plastic bags were thinned as a
result of manual intervention and used instead of yarn, that surplus and waste materials are used within the
scope of artistic textiles/fiber art lessons, and that three-dimensional designs have been created with adhesive
bonding and sewing methods. In the accessory designs realized within the scope of the project, new and
functional designs have been created in tablet weaving technique with polyester yarns produced from plastic
bottles (from waste materials), which is a good example of recycling. In the garment design lessons, it has been
observed that new designs giving information and experience for practice, as well as designs, in which
contemporary materials and traditional techniques are combined, have been created by redesigning old clothing
and fabric with deconstruction technique and also by using weaving, printing, macrame, knitting, sewing and
adhesive bonding techniques. With these techniques, new surfaces have been used and applied with different
textures, colors and materials, by applying changing techniques in creative processes. The fact that this
understanding is a method in education brings along a sustainable approach, and exhibiting these practices with
an artistic presentation shows how important it is for added value and has an aesthetic value. In the study, it is aimed that the subject handled develops new projects to create awareness on sustainability, in cooperation with
school, university, related public institutions and organizations, non-governmental organisations. However,
new designs can be made after the materials under the scope of surplus, leftover and waste are supplied to the
faculties from waste collection facilities, textile firms and after they become recyclable materials upon
establishing relevant units in the universities. It is hoped that the study will lead to emergence of new ideas
about recovery and will create awareness in the society, and will form a certain consciousness to the
environment.
Keywords: Recycling, Sustainability, Waste Material, Textile and Fashion Design, Education and Training.
While textile was first produced together with the existence of human being within the direction of needs
related thereto, it continues to exist as a different means of expression in the fields of art in addition to the field
of daily use over time. It is known that felting and knitting, which have a significant place within the art of
textile, have been created in different styles within the scope of different civilizations. Notwithstanding that the
traditional production of felt and knitted products, used as functional objects within the historical process,
continues, it is also seen that they are used in shaping design objects, formed by the modern design approach
as industrial production. At the current period, it is seen that various forms, textures, and volumes are sought
on surfaces by the use of different textile techniques, and different experiments and searches, used especially in
felt and knitting techniques take place as a means of expression in the fields of art.
The objective of the research is also to put forth the stage of the art object and artistic apparel through different
forms and textures with the provision of bulky effects on the surface by combining felting feature of wool with
different knitting techniques. In the research aiming to discover new methods of establishing a relationship
between felt and knitting techniques that have been two separate textile techniques, the establishment of a
dialogue between the design disciplines and relationships between the art object and artistic apparel design
variables are examined between the size and space interval. This is to catch a different and innovative
viewpoint with raw wool and yarns, which are used in the artistic object and artistic apparel forms.
Nevertheless, the objective hereunder is to bring out different visual effects in artistic works through the use of
repeated formation methods from the part to the whole.
While the surface searches in the research, are developed through the usage of wool material, they have been
limited by knitting & felting techniques. The methods, used in knitting techniques, refer only to hand knitting.
The potential of the wool material in its transformation into the artistic object constituted innovative, variable
textures, different forms and volumetric alternatives on the surfaces of the works through its combination with
the knitting and felting techniques. The dimensional changes having arisen with the felting have changed the
formation opportunities of art objects and apparel and brought forth unexpected and extraordinary effects. In
addition to this, all artistic works gained visual variety by the use of different colours and colour shades. At the
work where new modelling opportunities are presented beyond apparel manufacturing methods, a literature
review has been made by taking advantage of a descriptive scanning method and then, an action research
method was used in the artistic object and artistic apparel application processes so formed up. According to
results, obtained from the research that analysed the wool under a new light as a versatile natural fibre, it has
been understood that the wool continues to be a lasting trend ranging from fleece to the art object and fashion,
and the wool material and its potential has also been noticed in the fields of design and art apart from the
provision of conformance of the wool and knitting industry through its features of high performance only to
the modernity and commercial success. Furthermore, it also shows that the use of the felt and knitting
technique jointly created different artistic textile forms and that these forms could be diversified
and at the beginning of 21st century, it is seen that sustainability concept has grown in importance and that
studies focusing on this matter have been given weight to. Today, it is aimed that raw material resources are
recycled, recovered, and transformed into products again by serving a purpose other than the purpose of use,
and also that they are consumed in a manner to leave the least waste to the environment. While the practices
dealt with within this scope are in an ongoing industrial process, they are addressed as subject in the courses
and project in undergraduate education of Faculty of Fine Arts, in order to raise awareness and to grow
conscious designers. Designs and productions performed with a sustainable action constitute the main research
subject of the study, within the scope of the curriculum of Faculty of Fine Arts, Textile/Textile and Fashion
Design Department and under the concepts of recycling, recovery and reproduction. These designs and
productions were examined within the scope of the period dated between 2010-2020. The meaning and place
of the concepts of recycling, recovery and sustainability in the curriculum has been researched. The study is
examined through printing, weaving, knitting, clothing, accessories and artistic designs and projects produced
within the scope of courses and projects. These productions/desings are examined and associated with the
concept of sustainability. The method of the study is qualitative research and the main data collection method
of the study is based on document analysis. The concept of sustainability, which is the subject of the study,
was evaluated by examining the studies in the Textile/Textile and Fashion Design departments of the Faculties
of Fine Arts of the universities located in Istanbul, Izmir, Adana and Mersin provinces. In the applied courses
in these departments, recycling, recovery and reproduction processes are examined specific to student designs.
In this research made to determine the designs and projects created in order to create awareness, approximately
72 designs of 32 students, all of which are made from surplus and waste materials and designed and produced
on the basis of re-use principles, were dealt with. While determining the examples of the research, teachers and
students who are open to cooperation were taken into consideration and, in this context, easily accessible
(suitable) samples were analysed. As a result of the study, the daily life outputs of the productions within the
scope of the Textile/Textile Fashion Design Departments of Faculties of Fine Arts are discussed in relation to
the concept of sustainability, which is the rising value of today. During the research process, after the visual
and written data collection stage, descriptive data analysis and interpretation have been made and the results
have been reached. In the research which is examined in this context, it is followed that advanced cycling and
reuse in textile and fashion design are addressed again within the life cycle of materials that are produced for
different aims and that they are transformed to and use as a textile or clothing object to be reused or an artistic
object. It is seen during the design phase of textile products, with the concept of advanced cycling and reuse,
that textile product is developed by considering how it can be recovered at the end of its lifetime. It has been
observed that designer candidates create alternative different solutions to the current situation, that many
different materials are handled and evaluated in the examples they present, that they are sorted out, and that
expected or unexpected diversity has been realized. In the studies, it has been obtained from the opinions of
students and teachers that surplus and waste materials are obtained through donation as well as research and
collection. In the research, the applicability of the materials that lost their function within the design
possibilities was determined with the recycling technique in line with the information obtained from the
lecturers. These techniques are formed by the combination, in printing design courses, of embroidery, applique,
sewing techniques, which are used with filmdruck (silk/serigraphy/screen) printing technique on surplus or
waste fabrics and hand painting methods, with together with patchwork technique. Examples made within the
scope of weaving design courses are observed to have been created by using surplus, waste and waste materials
as weft yarn. In knitting designs on the other hand, it has been observed that plastic bags were thinned as a
result of manual intervention and used instead of yarn, that surplus and waste materials are used within the
scope of artistic textiles/fiber art lessons, and that three-dimensional designs have been created with adhesive
bonding and sewing methods. In the accessory designs realized within the scope of the project, new and
functional designs have been created in tablet weaving technique with polyester yarns produced from plastic
bottles (from waste materials), which is a good example of recycling. In the garment design lessons, it has been
observed that new designs giving information and experience for practice, as well as designs, in which
contemporary materials and traditional techniques are combined, have been created by redesigning old clothing
and fabric with deconstruction technique and also by using weaving, printing, macrame, knitting, sewing and
adhesive bonding techniques. With these techniques, new surfaces have been used and applied with different
textures, colors and materials, by applying changing techniques in creative processes. The fact that this
understanding is a method in education brings along a sustainable approach, and exhibiting these practices with
an artistic presentation shows how important it is for added value and has an aesthetic value. In the study, it is aimed that the subject handled develops new projects to create awareness on sustainability, in cooperation with
school, university, related public institutions and organizations, non-governmental organisations. However,
new designs can be made after the materials under the scope of surplus, leftover and waste are supplied to the
faculties from waste collection facilities, textile firms and after they become recyclable materials upon
establishing relevant units in the universities. It is hoped that the study will lead to emergence of new ideas
about recovery and will create awareness in the society, and will form a certain consciousness to the
environment.
Keywords: Recycling, Sustainability, Waste Material, Textile and Fashion Design, Education and Training.