Ipo Pain Perdu (Coconut-Bread French Toast)

Updated Nov. 27, 2024

Ipo Pain Perdu (Coconut-Bread French Toast)
Linda Xiao for The New York Times. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Sophia Eleni Pappas.
Total Time
1½ hours, plus cooling
Prep Time
5 minutes
Cook Time
1 hour 25 minutes, plus cooling
Rating
4(30)
Comments
Read comments

Pain perdu, which Americans know as French toast, traditionally calls for crusty French bread. Heimata Hall, who runs food tours on his native Mo‘orea in French Polynesia, uses ipo, a Tahitian bread rich with grated coconut and coconut milk. The dough should be as sticky as possible — so sticky, you think it must surely need more flour or liquid, but no. Some recipes call for baking or boiling, but Mr. Hall prefers steaming because it holds in moisture and gives the bread a smooth, clean finish. For pain perdu, he cuts the ipo into thick slabs and dunks them in coconut milk, just enough so they’re coated but not sopping, then in egg. The pan gets a brushing of butter (not too much), to crisp the outside of the bread and caramelize the coconut. The finish: fresh mint, nuts, whatever fruit is in season, and, for extra luxury, a spoonful of coconut cream complete the dish. —Ligaya Mishan

Featured in: French Toast Gets a Polynesian Pick Me Up

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Ingredients

Yield:2 to 4 servings

    For the Ipo

    • 2cups/250 grams all-purpose flour
    • ¼cup/50 grams sugar
    • 3tablespoons unsweetened grated dried or fresh coconut
    • 1tablespoon instant dry yeast
    • 1teaspoon baking powder
    • About 1⅓ cups/325 milliliters coconut milk

    For the Pain Perdu

    • 2large eggs, beaten
    • ½teaspoon vanilla extract (optional)
    • ¼cup/57 grams butter

    For the Garnish (optional)

    • Seasonal fruit, such as banana, papaya, starfruit or passion fruit
    • Honey, maple syrup or coconut sugar
    • Fresh coconut cream
    • Chopped toasted almonds or macadamia nuts
    • Fresh mint leaves
Ingredient Substitution Guide

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Make the ipo: Set up a steamer or, if baking, heat the oven to 350 degrees.

  2. Step 2

    In a large bowl, combine the flour, sugar, grated coconut, instant yeast, baking powder and about ¾ cup/175 milliliters of the coconut milk. (Save the remainder of the coconut milk for Step 6.) Using your hands, mix until the ingredients are well incorporated and the dough forms a ball. (If your hands get too sticky, dust them with flour.)

  3. Step 3

    Shape the dough into a rough log and pat it evenly into a 4½-by-8½-inch loaf pan. Steam for 30 minutes, until a skewer inserted into the center comes out clean, or bake until the loaf has risen slightly and is golden brown on top, 40 to 45 minutes.

  4. Step 4

    Remove the ipo from the steamer or oven and transfer to a wire rack. Let cool for 5 minutes, then remove the loaf from the pan and let cool completely on the rack. At this point you may wrap the ipo in plastic wrap and store it in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

  5. Step 5

    Make the pain perdu: In a shallow bowl, beat the eggs.

  6. Step 6

    Pour the remaining coconut milk into a separate shallow bowl and stir in the vanilla extract, if using.

  7. Step 7

    Heat a large skillet over medium. Add the butter and let it melt, tilting the pan until the entire surface is glossy.

  8. Step 8

    Cut eight ½-inch-thick slices from the ipo. (Save the remaining ipo for another use.)

  9. Step 9

    Working in batches — and keeping in mind however many slices will fit comfortably in your skillet at a time — dunk the ipo slices in the coconut milk, making sure they’re fully coated but not drenched, then dip them in the eggs. Fry until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Transfer to a plate and repeat with the remaining slices.

  10. Step 10

    Serve the ipo pain perdu topped with your choice of fruit, honey, fresh coconut cream, chopped nuts or mint or a combination.

Ratings

4 out of 5
30 user ratings
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Comments

@Angela steam it in the loaf pan

@Alison—Step 1 says 350 degrees…

The beginning of the recipe says to preheat the oven to 350

Not related to the recipe but if you find yourself in Mo’orea I highly recommend Heimata’s food tour. (tahitifoodtours on Instagram). One of the highlights of our trip to French Polynesia.

So. I have made this three times now. Holy smokes is this yummy. Yes it’s a BIT denser than other French toast breads. But to its favor! I recommend using dry active and per usual doing an activation with 1/4 warm water. So reduce your coconut milk by 1/4c. I also did a proof/rise after mixing and forming into a ball for about 1hr. Then after placing in loaf pan doing a second proof/rise for 30mins to an hour. Bake 45 at 350. Bake with a loose aluminum foil cover too. Helps it not brown too much on top. This bread is fine alone but really benefits as a French toast. The crumb is wonderfully thicker but not at all “grainy”. The idea that it has a different texture loans from the coconut pieces. If that’s not your cup of tea then maybe use a finer coconut flake? Also after doing some research there is much more coconut than suggested. So I doubled it. Yum!

I made this for my Christmas morning breakfast, and it was a pleasant twist on French toast. The bread was quite dense, and if I made it again I might proof the dough so that it can rise. I served it with blueberries and maple syrup

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Credits

Adapted from “Eat Pacific: The Pacific Island Food Revolution Cookbook” edited by Robert Oliver (Massey University Press, 2024)

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