Painting the JU 87D Stuka (MW) part 4.

The final part. After I have tried to save more of the painting, I painted the details and gave the whole model a layer of gloss varnish to give it a hard sturdy protective layer. Next I applied the decals. The decals may not be the correct ones for a JU 87D Stuka but these are the ones I got with my model. After applying and drying a thin layer of diluted gloss varnish was painted over the decals. Last thing to do was to give the Stuka a layer of matt varnish (I use a spray can for that).
The end result is not good. If you look from a distance it looks pretty OK. The stuka does look as it has been fighting in the desert for a longer time and not for just 2 or 3 days. But if you take a closer look you can see the mistakes and even much more the disaster that happened, as you can see on the pictures. For now it has to do. Maybe in the future, if I have the desire, I will repaint the model.

This is one of the worst painted models I ever painted!

The end.

Painting the JU 87D Stuka (MW) part 1.
Painting the JU 87D Stuka (MW) part 2.
Painting the JU 87D Stuka (MW) part 3.

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Painting the JU 87D Stuka (MW) part 3.

DISASTER!!!

It is time to aply a thin layer of wash. For this I am using Vallejo Game Color Smoke.
After taking a drop of the wash I deluted it with water to get the right mix. And everything went wrong. When I applyed the wash I noticed that something was wrong. The was didn't run out smoothly and looked very grainy. With a dry brush and tissue I tried to get rid of the more thick layers on the model hoping to save the painting. After letting it all dry I tried to "repair" it by using the proper colours. The results can be seen below.





Before painting the details and applying the decals I am going to try to save more of the primary colours.

End of part 3.

Painting the JU 87D Stuka (MW) part 1.
Painting the JU 87D Stuka (MW) part 2.

Thanks for looking.

Painting the JU 87D Stuka (MW) part 2.

Time to paint the bottom and top of the Stuka. As said for the bottom I am using Vallejo IraQuian Sand. I hoped that 1 layer would be enough but it isn't. I had to paint 2 layers.



As you can see at the picture above even 2 layers isn't enough. But I don't want to paint a third layer to afraid that details of the model will be lost. Besides the model will get a wash layer over it later on.

Next is the top of the plane. For this I used Vallejo Yellow Ochre. Again I have to paint 2 layers and again 2 layers is not enough as you can see at the picture below. As I don't want to loose too much of the details I didn't paint a 3rd layer. But as with the bottom part the top will also get a wash layer over it later on.



After all paint has dried time to paint the Camo on the top of the Stuka. For this I used Vallejo German Camo Orange Ochre. I wanted a camo of vertical irregular lines. I didn't want clean neat lines but lines that give some sort of dirty look. The end result can be seen on the picture below.



End of part 2.

Painting the JU 87D Stuka (MW) part 1.

Thanks for looking.

Irregular Magazine issue 15.

I almost missed it but issue 15 of Irregular Magazine is up for download. For what is in this issue I simply quote the text from their site.
 We have a couple of neat tutorials looking first at making cheap terrain and another on how to build your own Roman villa. We have a really interesting interview with Ronnie Renton of Mantic Games about why mantic have gone down the route of using Kickstarter, as well as a look at Mantic’s most recently completed Kickstarter campaign, Deadzone. Also in this issue we have a background piece that can be used for Stargate games, either RPGs or wargames if you’re interested in running an alternative Stargate universe based in the UK.

We have three showcases this issue looking at the work of the talented illustrator Conor Nolan, a look at some of Ian Powell’s wonderfully painted miniatures and the third showcase features Graham Shirley’s awesome Warhammer Greenskin army of Hazmat Gutspilla and the Red Tribe. All three showcases are really well-worth reading.

Finally, we round off this issue with a great short story from the pen of ShaNeil Harada and we have reviews of two games, Dungeon Command and Helldorado.
For download the latest issue: Irregular Magazine

About the Ancible magazine. Making this magazine paid for didn't do it any good. As a matter of fact Issue 20, is the last issue they published. Read on their website what exactly happened: Ancible

Thanks for reading.

Painting the JU 87D Stuka (MW) part 1.

This model has been waiting on my painting-desk to get painted for a long time. I wasn't sure what colours to use to paint this Stuka. As you can see at the picture it is a second hand model.



First thing I had to do was to remove all the old paint. The former owner hadn't given the model a proper treatment before painting with as result that the paint chipped of the model. I placed the plane in a little container which was filled with a cleaning product named "Blue Wonder" and left it in there for a full 24 hours. After that I scrubbed the model with a thoothbrush. All paint came of the plane very easily. Next I sanded the plane a little using fine waterproof sandpaper. Then the only thing left to do was to clean the plane with warm water and a little soap and glue it all together. (Sorry forgot to take a picture how it looked after cleaning).

Next thing to do was to prime the model and here I may have made a mistake. At the time I primed my models (most of the time I prime all my models in 1 go) I didn't know what colours to use to paint the Stuka. So the model is primed black as I usually do with all FoW models.



Now that I know which colours I want to use to paint the Stuka (more about this later) I realise that it was maybe better to prime the Stuka white or grey.

The main colours I am going to use to paint the Stuka. These are Vallejo Model Color.
Base colour: Desert Yellow. Going to paint the whole plane using this colour mainly to "hide" the black primer so I don't need 3 or more layers of the main colours because the main visible colours are bright.



As you can see on the picture one layer of Desert Yellow isn't enough to cover the black primer. I hope that one layer of the following colours will be enough to cover it all.

Bottom of the Stuka will be painted using IraQuian Sand.
Top and sides of the Stuka will be painted using Yellow Ochre.
Next step is to paint Camo on the top and sides of the Stuka using probably German Camo Orange Ochre. The Camo will be painted on the Stuka in irregular patterns and stripes.

End of part 1.

French 25mm Anti-tank Gun Platoon (EW)

Painted for my Early War Escadron de Reconnaissance Compagnie the French 25mm Anti-tank Gun Platoon (Colonial).
The platoon contains Platoon Commander Rifle team and three 25mm SA-34 Anti-tank guns.
With this platoon added my Escadron de Reconnaissance Compagnie is exactly 1550 points big. My complete list can be found below the pictures.

My Escadron de Reconnaissance Compagnie. (1550 points)

Headquarter
1 Panhard AMD-35

Combat Platoons
Deep Reconnaissance Platoon 4 Panhard AMD-35
Deep Reconnaissance Platoon 4 Panhard AMD-35
Reconnaissance Platoon 3 Renault AMR-35 (7.5mm MG), 2 Renault AMR-35 (13.2mm MG)

Weapons platoons
Fusiliers Machine-gun Platoon Command rifle team, 4 8mm mle 1914 HMG
Fusiliers Mortar Platoon Command rifle team, Observer rifle team, 4 81mm mle 27/31 mortars

Divisional Support
Medium Combat Platoon 5 Somua S-35
Fusiliers-Voltigeurs Platoon (Colonial) Command Rifle/MG team, 1 VB team, 6 Rifle/MG teams
25mm Anti-tank Gun Platoon (Colonial) Command Rifle team, 3 25mm SA-34 Anti-tank guns
All-terrain Towed 105mm Artillery Battery Command Rifle team, Staff team, Observer Rifle team, Motorcycle & Sidecar, 4 105mm C mle 1935B howitzers

Air Support
Sporadic Fighter Intercept Moraine Saulnier MS.406

Thanks for looking.

(I have noticed that a lot of the pictures on older blog posts have disappeared. What happened I don't know but I will move the pictures to Photobucket and insert them again. It will take some time)