Tag Archives: Jupon

What Was A Surcoat?

The surcoat was, like the jupon that replaced it, an outer garment made of rich material. It was worn over armour (at this point little more than chain mail) and was usually decorated with a coat of arms. It could be very long and it is thought that, in the thirteenth century, some were padded. As you can see from the picture above, it was basically a sleeveless tunic.

Those who study these things use effigies and contemporary pictures to try to work out what medieval knights were wearing. Since the surcoat typically covered the knight from neck to well below the knee, it is very difficult to work out what was worn underneath.

It’s probable that the surcoat was copied by Crusaders from the Saracens in the twelfth century in order to keep the heat and dirt from their armour. It was also used for identifying its wearer in tournaments, which had become popular a few decades earlier, and in battle. The introduction of face-covering helmets made identification in any circumstances difficult and a surcoat that stayed on the knight was far more useful than a decorated shield which could be dropped in a battle or not even used. In the twelfth century a tournament was little more than a mini battle, so surcoats were very useful. Surcoats were still being used to identify the dead at the Battle of Crécy in 1346, although the practice of war had already turned against them.

It was eventually replaced by the much shorter and padded jupon, which was more practical for a man fighting on foot. Any English knights still wearing them at Crécy must surely have cut their surcoats short, since they were mainly on foot that day and wouldn’t want a long tunic flapping about their legs.

Sources:
A Dictionary of Medieval Terms and Phrases – Christopher Corèdon and Ann Williams
Knight – Robert Jones
The Tournament in England 1100 – 1400 – Juliet Barker
Tournaments – Richard Barber and Juliet Barker

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What Was A Jupon?

Jupon has at least two other spellings: gipon and (annoyingly, since I almost missed it in an index) gypon. It was a short padded and quilted garment worn over a suit of armour. The padding was usually sheep’s fleece or cotton and it was quilted to form ridges about four centimetres wide.  Worn on its own, the jupon provided a fair amount of protection, but it was usually worn over something else protective. A jupon was usually decorated with a coat of arms, allowing its wearer to be identified on the battlefield. Edward III had jupons made of blue taffeta, velvet and satin, but other fabrics were also used, as we shall see.

The jupon of Edward of Woodstock, better known these days as the Black Prince, used to be displayed above his tomb in Canterbury Cathedral. It was made of red and blue velvet and decorated with gold embroidery. He died in 1376 and by the Second World War it had become so fragile that it was taken down and put into storage and very few people get to see it these days. You can see him wearing it, or one very like it, in the image at the top of the post. He’s the younger of the two men, but Edward III, his father, is also wearing one.

Back in 2017 Amber Butchart’s A Stitch in Time (shown on the BBC) commissioned a replica of the Black Prince’s jupon. It was made using the techniques that would have been used in the fourteenth century and it was quite interesting watching the seamstresses try out different methods for the padding. You can see the garment they produced here. It’s quite stunning and there would have been no mistake about who he was in a battle.

Chaucer’s knight in The Canterbury Tales wears a jupon. In his book, Chaucer’s Knight, Terry Jones makes much of its being described as dirty and made of fustian, thus having no coat of arms, to support his view that the knight is a mercenary, rather than the chivalrous knight Chaucer says he is. It’s not a view that has gained much academic support in the 45 years since he first put it forward, but it clearly made an impression on me when I read the book over 20 years ago, as the one thing that I’ve always remembered about the knight is that he has a stained jupon. It’s Chaucer who spells it gypon.

Sources:
A Dictionary of Medieval Terms – Christopher Corèdon and Ann Williams
The Battle of Agincourt – ed. Anne Curry and Malcolm Mercer
Chaucer’s Knight – Terry Jones

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